THE SUNDAY OKEGDNTA3ST, POBTLAND, ' FEBRUARY 4, 1900. 20 Sffl? 1?J1M I ,8 I .. . left side.' '" ' Hi' ' mil W --Is y x -n " -rr-rf . u i &a .j Song of the Skirt. The skirts that they'll wear la the spring, ttale. Have a plait from the hem to tie waist; 5e H beck" JesTt the thing:, tra la. So hoedle It up with a string:, tra la, Ab t charity send it with haste. Sn Francisco Examiner. DAME NATURE NOT IN IT Craft of Modiste Avntlctli Not, if Fig- nre Beneath a Gown Be Not Re- oonstrnctcd Up to Date. NEW YORK, Jan. 29 Every one knows that there is a fashion In figures just a there is & fashion in gowns, and not to have the correct outline is a more seri ous grievance against vogue than any mistake in dress could be. However well a gown amy be made, if the figure be neath tt le not properly molded by means of well-adjusted corsets and carefully planned underwear, the craft of the modtste &viieth not. Timo was when a high bust was considered a mark of beau- t ty; now It is looked upon almost In the i light of a deformity. Pull length is gUen ft. u , i v .. , tothe chest and the bust Is "worn" low, though not so disgracefully low, be It I UMtemtood, as it was last summer, when the fad was carried to an exaggeration that- bordered upon caricature. That the entire "set" of a gown depends largely upon the modeling of the stays is an open secret among those who make a scientific study of dress. It is this that gives delicacy and elegance to the sil houette. Hips are to be drawn in tighter than the' have been for some time past, in oonoonuence of which corsets are being mane longer, and the comfortable little empire affairs that were really hardly more than girdles, will soon be hopelessly out i of date. It is to the shape of the wearer, ' rather than to the shape of what is worn, i that fashion is giving her most assiduous attention. Now more than ever before it te modish to be slender, and those hips that will protrude, in spite of enug lac ing and scant petticoats, are explicitly forbidden the exhibiting tendencies of sheathlike robes. In such cases, recourse is had to plaits, or a slight fullness of kind. Gowns of eel-like tightness are gradually being looked upon w 1th dis- t favor, and the true Parisian has already, ' to we her own expression, "shed her stain," and is looking back with amuse-' SHAM PRIAGESS AXD meat to "those gewns that were appllqued to tha hodyt" Narrovr SUlrts Still. Nsarow the skirts must be, but of a aieoreot narrowness, that half conceals rather thaa wholly reveals the contour, and boMeos wttt conform to the same rule, BuggmOng. hwtoad of pronouncing. As jet the antpntwde is noticeable more In ma ter of length than of breadth. Skirts are extra long; particularly for the even- w lng. Dinner, opera and evening gowns have unmistakable demltralns. Nothing could be -more esthetic nor' in better taste, than these clinging, graceful robes, rippling slightly about the feet and of such f easy proportions: that the figure seems to undulato exquisitely beneath them. The majority of tailors are making two skirts to every suit. One is an ordinary, full-length skirt, sloped out well behind, and the other Is the "trotting skirt," so universally recognized and beloved, for shopping, walking and i common utility. The latter Is made to clear the ground, by two, or 2& Inches, and really, they are unsightly, unless they are smartly made by a first-class man tailor. Rich brown and deep slate color are the popular shades. Chinchilla is often used when the jacket 4s in bolero form. If a waist form Is used, less clumsy material is pre ferred. Chic suits are made of hairy cheviot serges, In blue, red, black or. chocolate color, strapped and trimmed with satiny bands of broadcloth, In the same shade. A great deal has "been predicted for the princess gown, and the best part of the predictions has been happily fulfilled. It is the most artistic cut that could be de sired and one that will never be vul garized by becoming "the rage among the rabble," aa Its demands upon form and purse are faT too exacting. In the first place, only a woman of perfect propor tions can stand the test of such decora tive simplicity, and, in the second place, it takes a very efficient end consequently high-priced modiste to v fashion such a gown. Then, beside, most women who have not a superabundance of clothing prefer separate skirts, that can be worn with a vaiety of bodices. As a result, the princess, though It is not discarded, Is usually simulated. For example, a plain gown of gray vel vet has all the appearance of being a princess, girdled with a narrow gray belt, that Is allowed to droop slightly in front. In reality the girdle serves to hide the line of demarkation, the waist and skirt helng separate. The imitation is per- fected by having the seams on bodice and !"rt mclde;, "" furter by having the trimming, which runs down the front of the bodlce from tno y-shaped opening at the neck, continue straight down the front of the skirt. The skirt is narrow about the upper part, but widens percept ibly toward the foot There is a bias seam down the center of the back. A box plait made in triangular form, is set into this seam, which is opened half way up the back, to give the requisite flare, the sides of the triangle being, of course, sewn to the ripped edges. In, other words, in those new skirts that have box plaits down the backs, the plaits are made sep arate and stitched in. An Invaluable Suggestion. This may be an invaluable suggestion to those who have tight skirts that they naV6 STown tired of and wish to have made over. The added plait must be quite narrow at the top and spread out fanlike at the bottom. The exact form is shown in an illustration on this page. But to continue with the description of the gray velvet gown. The open V at the neck is filled In with a tucked, white satin shield and stock collar. Turning back from the V is an arrangement of collar and reveres In one piece. The reveres are notched and the inner and outer points, made by the notch- lng, are rounded off. The collar is made of gray velvet and finished around the edge with a band of white satin. The jLS, uSwtJ!p VISITING GOWNS. trimming down the front of the gown con sists of two rows of narrow black velvet ribbon, set an inch apart Between the ribbon bands is a row of tiny buttons. Pieces of black velvet applique, In fleur de lis design, are placed sideways on one of the ribbon bands, at regular Intervals of about seven inches The corsage is not fitted wlth-darts, but Is puckered into the belt in front The back Is in one tight piece, broad across the shoulders end narrow at the belt, as Is shown In the sketch. The eleeves are ,tteH tight and are padded a trifle at the topt like a man's coat sleeves, to,glyJhidfi to the shoulders. The hat of gray felt is trimmed with a wide scarf of soft tur quoise taffeta, fringed at the ends and knotted behind. A large bunch of violets Into the folds of silk at the Another sham princess Is made of crepe de chine, in one of those melting new pastel shades. "Six plaits are, arranged down the back of the costume. 'Of course, they converge towards the waist line and spread out again towards the edge of the tfaln. Straight" down the front Is a beautiful panel of Venice lace, extending from the neck to the hem of the skirt It Is attached to the bodice, but dropping over the front of the skirt, as it docs, without even as much as a girdle to break the line, It readily passes "for a princess robe, despite the cunning little twist of velvet that Is seen around the sides and back of the waist The sleeves are tight and are stitched in tiny, en circling tucks from top to bottom. At the wrists they are finished with fine cuffs of Venice lace. Charming Visiting- Gown. . In the same sketch with the velvet gown described above, Is a charming visiting gown In violet-colored "cloth of silk." On the skirt, a stitched bias band of cloth outlines a sham tunic. This is orna mented in front with two rows of cut jet buttons, catching down the ends of loops, made of smooth silk cord. The cor sage is in open bolero form, with a re petition of the loops and buttons at either side. The little closed vest that begins at the bust and ends just above the waist Is of the same cloth as the gown, but is crossed diagonally with tabs of black velvet. The wide yoke that is disclosed above the vest Is made of sky-folue panne closely stitched In single tucks. A seam down the center of the yoke causes the tucks to meet 'In blunt Inverted V shapes. The stock collar, also of panne, terminates In a point at thet center of the front and back. The sleeves' are tight and long. Accompanying the costume is a "Tam" shaped hat of braided violet felt, trimmed on top with a long "plume" of plaited mousseline de sole and lace. At the left side i'. Is coquettishly raised over a huge, rouna bupch of Parma violets. The costume was designed for a young mother, who believes not only In being up to date in her own appointments, but who fairly controls local juvenile fashions, by her close attention to the particulars of her children's wardrobes. A fashion that she has lately Inaugurated is the little girl's paletot, as correct an article as was ever turned out by leading tailors for the most fastid.ous matron or dams3l. It is a straight paletot, in mastic cloth, for a child of six or seven years. The front Is furnished with little squared re veres. The fastening, a trifle to the left of the center, is effected by threo large, cartwheel buttons. The strapped bands of stitched cloth are run In two strips down the back, similar to those down the front. Another shaped band near the top of the coat behind, outlines a pointed yoke. Pockets are placed low down on the coat. The short, military collar opens In front and the sleeves are s'mply coat-shaped. This womanish little wrap corresponds perfectly with the wee, mannish topcoats and stiff hats that small boys are wear ing. The large bonnet, which is a modi fied dlrectoire, Is of black velvet, faced with white liberty satin. A rosette of White liberty satin is placed under the rim at both sides. At the dip of the rim on top Is another rosette of black velvet that holds the quills of two large white os trich tips. Scarlet Velvet Gowns, ' Bright scarlet velvet. was lately select ed for an evening gown by a stunning girl who could afford to assume so daring a color. The skirt, which was clinging, was cut in points all around the bottom, and brought to the proper length by an annexed circular flounce of velvet of the same shade. The flounce was not applied smoothly at the head, but though circular in shape, was gathered to the skirt. This mode of applying the flounce will un doubtedly gain in favor as the season advances. The bodice was a Unique af fair, with a tight, silk foundation, and the velvet draped over It In horizontal folds, encircling the body. It ended ab ruptly and evenly all the way around, just below the arms. Drawn around the edge of this decolletage was a long sable scarf. The scarf crossed the left shoul der and the little sable head nestled Into the hollow of the left shoulder in front, while the tall hung down from the hollow of the right shoulder. The right shoulder was crossed by a single strand of large pearl beads. Short sable bodies, with heads and tails, formed a heading for the ruffle on the skirt. A head glared from each upward point, and the tails crossed and hung from the lower points. The gown was made without sleees, to be worn with long, white kid gloves. The remaining Illustration is of an orig inal reception gown. The foundation of white satin is covered with an outer gown of black net, striped with black velvet ribbon. Large bands of white satin, cut in festoon shape and edged with heavy cream entre deux, are placed around the skirt at intervals. A narrower, festooned band of white satin, edged with lace, Is appllqued to the back and sides of the bodice, not, however, meeting in front. The ribbon on the wrinkled net sleeves is applied horizontally. The narrow girdle of black velvet Is fastened in front, with an artistic oval buckle. Lace entre deux marks the edge of the neck slope and the tops of the sleeves which fall below the shoulders. Shoulder straps are formed of the same entre deux. Beneath the last festooning of white satin on the skirt is a plalnted ruffle of plain black net ANITA DE CAMPL BARGAIN-HUNTING IMMORAL. New York Writer Declares It Warps Woman's Sense of Honor. The better people of America are getting over the Idea that shopping concerns no one but themselves. It does concern them selves, but It concerns besides the sales women with whom, they deal and the mar ket which they create. A writer in the New York Herald speaks plainly on this subject He says: "Shopping, as many women shop, is im moral. I do not exaggerate In calling it immoral. There Is, no other word strong enough to characterize the conduct of most persons who frequent the shop. It Is immoral to give way to the craze for cheapness. "Women who run about from store to store, seeking out the cheapest things they can find, create a demand for shoddy, sham and tasteless wares. They are making It necessary for working peo ple to be demoralized and degraded by working on unlovely and tawdry things. This Is a crime against refinement, against the love of the beautiful. The person who practices it commits a crime against so ciety. She is therefore a xlmlnal. "The craze for cheapness does not affect the refined patrons of the store especially. It Is Injuring and retarding the education of the proper artistic sense in the masses. There was no mania for cheap wares in early Greece, else there would have been no Phidian statues. A nation does not rise above Its natural level, the masses. "The shopper's duties are divided into two classes. They are the duties to the shop assistants and Ge duties to Ge working people who produce the goods. Shoppers owe it to society, of -which the .shop, assistants or clerks are a part, to compel shopkeepers to give their employes -vacations with full pay and an afternoon, off every week. By withdrawing their patronage from such firms as refuse to do thlsr'the shoppers will soon be In a po sition to dictate terms. "Don't complain spitefully to, the sales woman about the quality of goods kept by the- store. Probably she would be. glad to improve the stock If she could. Don't blame her If she tells you tartly that she doesn't own the store. No doubt she would like to. Don't scold her If she chats with other girls, while she Bhould be pay ing close attention to you. A reproving look, or a. word about being In a hurry, will oe a keener rebuke." JpattV$B&RDEN'S CHAIN GIRDLE. drnnment "Worn By, ITe-ir Yorlc Worn. nn Tli.t Set Tonfirncs WacKine. Of all the remarkable fashions that the New York season of opera' brought to 1 ght none has heen more talked of, according to the New York Herald, than the long gold chain worn as a girdle by Mrs. I. Townsend Burden. The chain consists of heavy, large gold links. Instead of encircling the waist like the usual girdle or belt It is fastened at the hack, so that It stays In place at the waist llnev but in, the front It does -aol come close together, and the chains. Teach to within an inch or so of '- ' IIP ORIGINAL RECEPTION GOWN. the bottom of the gown, where they are joined.J)y a heavy gold ball. This girdle, or, more properly speaking, decoration, excited much comment at the opera. Girdles of large gold or sliver links have been fashionable for some time, but none of them reached anywhere near the knees, to say nothing of falling to the bottom of the gown. The most novel use they have been put to Is to hold the muff. "When Mrs. Burden's long gold chain was first observed at the opera, It was thought that it was designed only to wear "with an evening costume. But since then she has been seen at an afternoon tea, in a black cloth, gold-trimmed street costume, weaing this same long chain girdle. SPANGLED TqULLE GOWNS. They Retain Their Vogme for For mnl Dinners How Made. TTor formal dinner gowns, spangled tulle retains Its elegance. Many of the new models are of exquisite refinement, and, though they' are costly beyond price, their facsimiles are not unavailable, even to women of comparatively moderate means. For any visiting dressmaker, at a few dollars a day, can make up a smooth fitting, net gown, detached from Its silk foundation. And the wearer herself Is a poor needlewoman if she cannot spangle the net after it is made up. Coarse net Is preferable to a fine quality, and the span gles should be selected to match the color of the foundation. Designs embroidered in spangles are more effective than a mere sprinkling of spangles. One might imagine this to be very dlflicult, but, in reality, those who know how to go about fancy work of thi3 practical sort find it quite simple. Here is the way to embroi der a net gown, with a design of leaves done In paillettes, the original model of which cost $400, and the duplicate some thing like $30: The foundation of gold-colored taffeta THEN CARRY is made tight-fitting, with a long, slender train. The black net over-dress is cut and fitted by the same pattern as the founda- tion, with a bias seam at Ge back oi tne skirt. Maple leaves, as big as one's nana, with the fingers stretched out, are em--bEoXdejcd on the net. In gold spangles, with a zigzag streak of spangles running over the net between the leaves. The pat tern need not be stamped on Ge net if these directions are followed. Draw a large, conventional maple leaf - ., , i , . JL on paper or tracing cloth. Pin it down hoop, cleaned thoroughly. Cotton bat- are between $800 and J8C0 a year The carefully to the net; then, with a needle ting, sprinkled with sachet powder, is average salary is X& a week, but no nurse and white cotton thread, run a basting fastened to Ge frame, which is then can work consecutively through Ge year, thread all around the edge of the paper covered with two widths of ribbon, run even if she had the opportunity. In ad leaf, not, of course, running the needle together and mousquetaired. Ribbon suf- dltlon, her working years are limited, through the paper. Unpin the leaf from flcient for a long loop (for hanging) and and there comes consequently a rainy day the net, and you have its outline left on a D0TO. are then fastened to the center, that should be provedld for. To do this. Ge net In white cotton. This whole out- anQ tnlg dainty addition to a woman's as "well asr to render assistance during line is to be filled in wiG gold spangles. slightly overlapping one anomer, use scales. Hepeat Gls process at regular, or, If preferred, irregular Intervals, all over Ge net, and connect the leaves with a crooked streak of spangles. Thn design is rendered more vivid by I having each spangled leaf outlined, after it is finished, with, black chenille cord. Jet may be used instead of. gilt spangles, with more sober result The bottom of the skirt would be ravishlngly lovely. If It were finished with a whole row of ma ple leaves, placed side by side, with the points turned down and falling over a plaited frill of taffeta or liberty satin, ap plied to the foot of the foundation skirt. GREAT SNAKES! Imitation Serpents Used as Every Kind of Ornament. Gentle woman, who shudders at the sight of a real snake, Is buying imitation snakes just now "by the hoxfuL And they -are being bought to wear. The newest hair ornament which the hair dresser recommends madame to buy is a wrig gling snake. The latest decoration for a decollete bodice is a snake. The most correct buckles for belt and stock are of curiously wrought silver in the form of colled snakes. There are snake- rings, snake bracelets, snake garter buckles, snake umbrella handles. In fact, madame, arrayed in her snakes, looks, says the NeV York Journal, In discussing this latest vagary of fashion, the Incarnation of Me dusa. As a hair ornament the snake Is gen erally a mass of glittering jets. It 13 about as thick as one's finger, and to be properly placed, the serpent should be colled about the knot of hair at the too of the headso that It looks ready to spring, with its head up and the forked tongue protruding. This snake Is worn ,&X &e jtjVv by the chaperon with gray hair and the debutante wlth golden locks. Tor dark haired women there are snakes made 0? eleaminc silver nallettesr. J """"m ' r "Wlred jetted Serpents are now sold with sure of appreciation, spangled gowns, to outline the low-cut "The only trouble," said one of the stn corsage. It Is also a fad to have a jetted ' dents to a reporter of the New York Mail snake colled about the bare arm, and and Express, "is that the lecturers seem snakes ''of black silk, wired and studded to Gink it necessary to adjust their re with rhlnestones, are used as well as the i marks to what they consider our level, jetted serpents. Tortoise-shell combs, and most of Gem fire very much too low. with the top In the form, of a wrlcgling snake, are also the vogue. Bnrgaln-Connter Courtesies. It was at a department store bargain counter for odds and ends. The crush was terrific. "Women squeezed and elbowed and shoved to get alongside the counter. .... . Frequently two of Gem happened to pick up the same bargain at one and the same time, and Gen they both retained their clutch on it and looked daggers at each other until the stronger of the two won the victory, or the bargain was rent into ribbons. A haughty matron, with an electric seal coat, picked up a box containing three cakes of Imported soap for 8 cents, at the same moment Gat a humble-looking little woman, in a faded tan coat, had fastened her grasp on the box. "I believe I was the first to take hold of this," said the matron in the electric seal coat, freezingly. Thfl humble-looklne little woman held on for a minute, studying her antagonist, then she slowly relaxed her hold on the box. "Well, you can have It," she said amia bly. "You look as If you need the soap." Washington Post. Wonld Like to Get Her. v The gossip about the engagement of Prince Henri, of Orleans, and Mls3 May j Goelet, of New York and London, In creases In spite of the fact that Mrs. Goe let denies it. Prince Henri, when ap proached about Ge matter, only smiles, in this country. Yet only now, saya Har and It la evident that Ge marriage to so per's Bazar, has a movement been started WOULD YOU BE STRICTLY IN UMBRELLAS WITH HEADS AFTER wealthy an American girl would be very desirable to him. The fact remains, in ' spite of all denials, that the Orleanlst prince is continually witn tne tioeieis. ana mat aiiss jiiay aoes not seem to tun- like the handsome Bourbon at all. Dhlnf) Clothes Hangers. Gowns wear much better when hung away properly. A dainty hanger can be made from a quarter of an old barrel wardrobe Is complete. Mixed Those Bandies Up. Two women shop the livelong day The Joyous hours speed fast away; All night they groan; they dwell afar, And mixed their bandies on the car. Indlanaoolls Journal. A Wife. She has no dog: to foodie. She has no eat to pet: She doea net own a parrot. She leads no social set; , She writes 'no learned papers Tb read where wosaea eet But she can gettap fishes JlerjHisboiHi likes te eat. Juaik. they are savlag: money. And find that lite la sweet S. E. Klser Is Chleago Times-Herald? WOMEN IN MEDICAL W0RIC Difucaltles Attending Her Introdac- tion to the Practice of the Heal ins Art Sltaation Novr. "The history of the movement for in troducing women Into the full praetiee of the medical profession," wrote Mrs. Mary Putnam JacobI, the noted woman doctor of New York, recently, "Is one of the most interesting of modern times. This movement has already achieved much. and far more than is often supposed. Yet the Interest Ilea even less In what has been so far achieved than In the oppo sition which has been encountered; In the nature of this opposition; in the pretexts on which it has been sustained, and In the reasonings, mere or less disingenuous, by which It ha9 claimed Its Justification. The history, therefore, Is a record not more of fact than of opinion. And the opinions expressed have often heen so gravevand solid In appearance, yet proved so frivolous and empty In view of the subsequent event, that their history Is not unworthy careful consideration among that of other solemn follies of mankind. The first woman of any note to apply for permission to attend lectures at the Harvard medical school was Miss Harriet K. Hunt, of Boston. This was In ISiT, but It was not until 1860, one year after Elizabeth Blackwell had heen graduated at Geneva, that she obtained any degree of success. Miss Btackwed Is credited with being the first person upon the Amer ican continent to whom, the idea of a woman studying medicine had come. She and her sister, with the aid of a few gen erous friends, opened a little dispensary for women and children, which after three years of existence, and one of suspension. developed into the New York Infirmary. "Marie Zakzrowska was the fojrth re cruit to this little band of noble women, and Miss Ann Preston, of Philadelphia, was the fifth. Later Dr. Longshore was the first woman to settle In practice in New York, and her sign was regarded as a monstrous curiosity, collecting street Idlers for Its perusal. "The change from the forlorn conditions of the early days has been most rapid, and those who survived the early strug gle and whose energies were not so ab sorbed by its external difficulties that not enough were left for the Intrinsic dlfll cultles of medicine, have been really in vigorated by the contest. It Is as in the fable of Antaeus, 'Those knocked down to the earth gained fresh strength as they touched the ground.' " TACTLESS PUBLIC MEN. College Girls Resent Superior Airs by Those Who Address Them. Several times each year notables are In vited by the faculty of Smith college to address the young women students. These lectures are usually well attended by, the college girls, and a good address is always ' If Gey would only treat us like ordinary human beings, it would be all right. Some of them seek to please us by cheap gal lantry, while others evidently regard us as a queer species of abnormally serlous- i minded creatures. These latter give long quotations which they have laboriously , ,,.. ,,- fnr h iCT1,r!n n-aBinn i - - "When Mr. Hopklnson Smith talked to us last year his lecture was, In the main, very entertaining, but he unfortunately started off with some passes about 'the beautiful assembly of highly cultivated young ladles,' and being 'dazzled by such a concentration of lovely femininity.' We were beginning to think Gat Hopklnson Smith was not really Ge man he was represented to be, when he settled down and gave us a really Interesting talk, which we all enjoyed. f "Another time Mr. Israel Zangwill came to speak. We heard Gat he had been in quiring about us from the professors, 'What are they like?' he asked. 'Are tbey Intelligent Intellectual? He was evl- ! dently afraid Gat we might be unable to follow him in his flights of thought; but none of us had much trouble in doing so. In fact, he seemed to us to be quite or dinary." ARMY OB TRAINED NURSES. Twenty Thousand of Them In Amer icaMovement In Their Behalf. Twenty-five years ago Ge first trained nurse began in America her beneficent work. Today there are over 20,000 nurses IT? THIS FASHION. for their benefit in case of sickness or death, though in England one founded by Princess Christian has long existed. It fa a well-known fact that no Insurance company will Issue sick benefit policies to nurses, on account of Ge risks In the pur suance of their calling. There is a tradi tion, too, Gat the trained nurse must accumulate money rapidly because her wages when in service are high. The actual truth of the matter is that the average earnings of the trained nurse any temporary incapacity while at work. la the object of the Trained Nurses' unuea Aia society oi America. The association was organized and in corporated by a special act of Go New York legislature, which was promptly apt proved by Governor Rooeeveit lasMacch. In addition to Ge relief 'of trafaed nurses twho are detained fresa daty on a's-J ac Mtneog or accident, and the pa.: mi & lunerai oeaem m. ease of dea la socMty aims to seevro the means c operation and coartttn&Mon, cerUL" c substantial banolite for ttx mem, - - tag oMs of rest: veetmteu-v loan i - ot .temporary die treat & siekntss r i ondawud hods and eventually it "iop,a memos penmens. AJBT traiMK MKHIMMr 38 VftLTn n r,i cwo.js Ratmr serviee and good i- awa woHs-a eestmcate show'-g ims wan -rw years' training in a I i iptta. is eligible for Berabershl? jmumwB no is ?, ana taere are cesl.l moBCBiy daes on a provisional sca.2 DOLLS AD LIBITDM. Success of Leaden Trata Shot Genereas "Wemea Contributors.! The Kr annual doll show held tr aa ur ease on Tentiy an c, Mm dolls wore exhibited at Koyu A -. I Bail, which was donated for the uc a: Prises were offered by Truth, for Vxo Lei aEessed doll, the handsomest doJ. ctl admission was charged the pub i.c, ai L after the show, the dolte were dULi.J to nearly 360 hospitals, workhouses, w: noose seaeete and marmaries. Women had worked for weeks to d' ine sous, a jars, itawaon won tn p. lor the greatest nueer of costumed tsbe having, with the assistance of a friends and her daughter, dressed 4CC r tnem. .Each of these dolls was r! vraea witn six removable garments n tog in all VM garments, which ha I i . cut ana nttea. Jars. Jtawson is ia of age, and every year she Increase la contributions to the show A Mrs. Llndo was not far behind Ma Rawson In the work, she having Jim i to her credit. Mrs. D. Levitt drear d knitting all their garments, eaca o li dolls carried a tiny nag m Its hand Levitt's daughter dressed 62 do l3, them In infantry costumes, wi'h, a C strung round their necks, filled with s- pturae. Aa immense number of scrapbooka raise contributed by women lnteres the little waifs. Some of the con ri spent a whole year preparing hern were filled with eolored pictures, hn ous" stories for children and many p 1 graphs, contributed by a London b tfcon company A Mrs. Tom Ins ga.-o books which she had pasted, w i . assistance of friends. Two hundrJ w sent by Mrs. McKane and Miss G. Hz son. Two of the moat attxaotlva books, wjj contributed by children. One of Gem made by Miss Marjorie Combe, da s . of Lady Constance Combe, a cM.d cr 44 years old. The other was contr' u oy a imie tame soy, 9 years of ai named Henry Aersy. son of a laborer was sent as a present to the ruh at the lad's special request. He was lous, be safd, being an Invalid hlmsi that some child in the hospital she a 11 amused by the scrapbook her had made! bis own unaided efforts. Worldly Wisdom. Says a woman writer in, Ge Chics Times-Herald: A kiss through a veil Is like chamj through a straw. Chaperons are counter irritants to duce matrimony. Men never really love their babies. only respect them for their family nections. There is a charm about another fell: widow Gat few men can associate their own. A girl never quite forgives a man kissing her nose by mistake. If brides wore wreaths of oranges instead of the araage.felonpona.i., how odd wouki seem. Hammocks are webs in which C--i gives an imitation of a spider Pacadiee produces Ge moat succe crop of wild oats on veoord. Many a ehap who looks, like a Gri For His Bfrthday. This pretty design for ornamentlne a t lng paper caeo won a prize at an EngUab blbltlOB of needtework. It is a basket cf clone la ribbon work ea a ground of tvory 1 god has been refused by some snub-noi girl who preferred cold cash to & Illustration for domestic use When you have had appendicitis been through supplementary proceed you begin to get too blase for anythJ "When Mother Sana:. A rohta sang. The duH world wakened from Ha sleep. Oast off M refee of wteter sadness. The leaves Xrsm heedsse 'gaa. to peep. The fcaafts overflowed in Jotty madness. AH nature MetsBed to the warning And laaghed with glee la sprtngtuae'B ma "Whea robin sang. A poet sang. It was a sens that reaehect tae heart Of Haaay a hmh, of every woBses, H was the fruit of perfect art, X shewed a power envtaely human. Sis aame was known to ail. and then Fame ea her tablets wrote it, when The poet saag. A mother sang. Two nttle eyelids Winked and drooped, Aad bright curls nestled on aer breast. Contentment's bounty rtehry trooped; Sweet mnoeeaee found loving rest. The stameer fairies tiptoed near. And all the angels stopped to hear "When mother seag. Lae Veraon m Muslo and Ancient Wedding: Customs. The "best man" at a wedding was fi merry one of a band of friends vtzio cotapaaied a suitor m his wifew' and kept watch for him over the br J tribe, while the lover sought tee w pi tunity to carry off his prize The hoz moon journey was the hurried fllL the husband with his wife, to escape vengeance of the pursuing tribe presents given the bridesmaids and usli are simply a relic of Ge rough r ueed by the ancient bridegroom ar hte personal friends so that thy w-i assist in the capture of his chosen L when Ge day arrived on whi a h-1 determined to carry her off In the 18th century a bride if one "f arietoeracy often received X rl"S3 r- her relatives and six Iron the bn 3 two when he became interest 1 two for the espousal and two wle - ware married. "Better Give Him Jessie." It fe rotated that when the " r5 who afterward became Generaj 1 "i I ran. away with and married Jessie Be Tom. Beaton, the great senator i r ' i made terribie threats of what 1- w do w the young mas. Be would g ' roasts and bufletg and hades to i I which Mrs. Benton qiuetly remarked aaa oecxor give ana joaoro, my ucu. ),