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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Feb. 4, 1900)
THE SUNDAY OKEGDNTA3ST, POBTLAND, ' FEBRUARY 4, 1900.
Sffl? 1?J1M I ,8 I .. . left side.'
'" ' Hi' ' mil W
x -n " -rr-rf . u i
Song of the Skirt.
The skirts that they'll wear la the spring,
Have a plait from the hem to tie waist;
5e H beck" JesTt the thing:, tra la.
So hoedle It up with a string:, tra la,
Ab t charity send it with haste.
Sn Francisco Examiner.
DAME NATURE NOT IN IT
Craft of Modiste Avntlctli Not, if Fig-
nre Beneath a Gown Be Not Re-
oonstrnctcd Up to Date.
NEW YORK, Jan. 29 Every one knows
that there is a fashion In figures just
a there is & fashion in gowns, and not
to have the correct outline is a more seri
ous grievance against vogue than any
mistake in dress could be. However well
a gown amy be made, if the figure be
neath tt le not properly molded by means
of well-adjusted corsets and carefully
planned underwear, the craft of the
modtste &viieth not. Timo was when a
high bust was considered a mark of beau- t
ty; now It is looked upon almost In the i
light of a deformity. Pull length is gUen
ft. u , i v .. ,
tothe chest and the bust Is "worn" low,
though not so disgracefully low, be It I
UMtemtood, as it was last summer, when
the fad was carried to an exaggeration
that- bordered upon caricature. That the
entire "set" of a gown depends largely
upon the modeling of the stays is an
open secret among those who make a
scientific study of dress. It is this that
gives delicacy and elegance to the sil
houette. Hips are to be drawn in tighter than
the' have been for some time past, in
oonoonuence of which corsets are being
mane longer, and the comfortable little
empire affairs that were really hardly more
than girdles, will soon be hopelessly out i
of date. It is to the shape of the wearer, '
rather than to the shape of what is worn, i
that fashion is giving her most assiduous
attention. Now more than ever before
it te modish to be slender, and those hips
that will protrude, in spite of enug lac
ing and scant petticoats, are explicitly
forbidden the exhibiting tendencies of
sheathlike robes. In such cases, recourse
is had to plaits, or a slight fullness of
kind. Gowns of eel-like tightness
are gradually being looked upon w 1th dis- t
favor, and the true Parisian has already, '
to we her own expression, "shed her
stain," and is looking back with amuse-'
SHAM PRIAGESS AXD
meat to "those gewns that were appllqued
to tha hodyt"
Narrovr SUlrts Still.
Nsarow the skirts must be, but of a
aieoreot narrowness, that half conceals
rather thaa wholly reveals the contour,
and boMeos wttt conform to the same rule,
BuggmOng. hwtoad of pronouncing. As
jet the antpntwde is noticeable more In
ma ter of length than of breadth. Skirts
are extra long; particularly for the even-
lng. Dinner, opera and evening gowns
have unmistakable demltralns. Nothing
could be -more esthetic nor' in better
taste, than these clinging, graceful robes,
rippling slightly about the feet and of
such f easy proportions: that the figure
seems to undulato exquisitely beneath
The majority of tailors are making two
skirts to every suit. One is an ordinary,
full-length skirt, sloped out well behind,
and the other Is the "trotting skirt," so
universally recognized and beloved, for
shopping, walking and i common utility.
The latter Is made to clear the ground, by
two, or 2& Inches, and really, they are
unsightly, unless they are smartly made
by a first-class man tailor. Rich brown
and deep slate color are the popular
shades. Chinchilla is often used when
the jacket 4s in bolero form. If a waist
form Is used, less clumsy material is pre
ferred. Chic suits are made of hairy
cheviot serges, In blue, red, black or.
chocolate color, strapped and trimmed
with satiny bands of broadcloth, In the
A great deal has "been predicted for the
princess gown, and the best part of the
predictions has been happily fulfilled. It
is the most artistic cut that could be de
sired and one that will never be vul
garized by becoming "the rage among the
rabble," aa Its demands upon form and
purse are faT too exacting. In the first
place, only a woman of perfect propor
tions can stand the test of such decora
tive simplicity, and, in the second place,
it takes a very efficient end consequently
high-priced modiste to v fashion such a
gown. Then, beside, most women who
have not a superabundance of clothing
prefer separate skirts, that can be worn
with a vaiety of bodices. As a result,
the princess, though It is not discarded,
Is usually simulated.
For example, a plain gown of gray vel
vet has all the appearance of being a
princess, girdled with a narrow gray belt,
that Is allowed to droop slightly in front.
In reality the girdle serves to hide the
line of demarkation, the waist and skirt
The imitation is per-
fected by having the seams on bodice and
!"rt mclde;, "" furter by having the
trimming, which runs down the front of
the bodlce from tno y-shaped opening at
the neck, continue straight down the
front of the skirt. The skirt is narrow
about the upper part, but widens percept
ibly toward the foot There is a bias
seam down the center of the back. A box
plait made in triangular form, is set into
this seam, which is opened half way up
the back, to give the requisite flare, the
sides of the triangle being, of course,
sewn to the ripped edges. In, other words,
in those new skirts that have box plaits
down the backs, the plaits are made sep
arate and stitched in.
An Invaluable Suggestion.
This may be an invaluable suggestion
to those who have tight skirts that they
naV6 STown tired of and wish to have
made over. The added plait must be
quite narrow at the top and spread out
fanlike at the bottom. The exact form
is shown in an illustration on this page.
But to continue with the description of
the gray velvet gown.
The open V at the neck is filled In with
a tucked, white satin shield and stock
collar. Turning back from the V is an
arrangement of collar and reveres In one
piece. The reveres are notched and the
inner and outer points, made by the notch-
lng, are rounded off. The collar is made
of gray velvet and finished around the
edge with a band of white satin. The
trimming down the front of the gown con
sists of two rows of narrow black velvet
ribbon, set an inch apart Between the
ribbon bands is a row of tiny buttons.
Pieces of black velvet applique, In fleur
de lis design, are placed sideways on one
of the ribbon bands, at regular Intervals
of about seven inches
The corsage is not fitted wlth-darts, but
Is puckered into the belt in front The
back Is in one tight piece, broad across
the shoulders end narrow at the belt, as
Is shown In the sketch. The eleeves are
tight and are padded a trifle at the topt
like a man's coat sleeves, to,glyJhidfi
to the shoulders. The hat of gray felt
is trimmed with a wide scarf of soft tur
quoise taffeta, fringed at the ends and
knotted behind. A large bunch of violets
Into the folds of silk at the
Another sham princess Is made of crepe
de chine, in one of those melting new
pastel shades. "Six plaits are, arranged
down the back of the costume. 'Of course,
they converge towards the waist line and
spread out again towards the edge of
the tfaln. Straight" down the front Is a
beautiful panel of Venice lace, extending
from the neck to the hem of the skirt It
Is attached to the bodice, but dropping
over the front of the skirt, as
it docs, without even as much as a girdle
to break the line, It readily passes "for a
princess robe, despite the cunning little
twist of velvet that Is seen around the
sides and back of the waist The sleeves
are tight and are stitched in tiny, en
circling tucks from top to bottom. At
the wrists they are finished with fine cuffs
of Venice lace.
Charming Visiting- Gown. .
In the same sketch with the velvet gown
described above, Is a charming visiting
gown In violet-colored "cloth of silk."
On the skirt, a stitched bias band of
cloth outlines a sham tunic. This is orna
mented in front with two rows of cut
jet buttons, catching down the ends of
loops, made of smooth silk cord. The cor
sage is in open bolero form, with a re
petition of the loops and buttons at either
side. The little closed vest that begins
at the bust and ends just above the waist
Is of the same cloth as the gown, but is
crossed diagonally with tabs of black
velvet. The wide yoke that is disclosed
above the vest Is made of sky-folue panne
closely stitched In single tucks. A
seam down the center of the yoke causes
the tucks to meet 'In blunt Inverted V
shapes. The stock collar, also of panne,
terminates In a point at thet center of the
front and back. The sleeves' are tight and
Accompanying the costume is a "Tam"
shaped hat of braided violet felt, trimmed
on top with a long "plume" of plaited
mousseline de sole and lace. At the left
side i'. Is coquettishly raised over a huge,
rouna bupch of Parma violets.
The costume was designed for a young
mother, who believes not only In being up
to date in her own appointments, but who
fairly controls local juvenile fashions, by
her close attention to the particulars of
her children's wardrobes. A fashion that
she has lately Inaugurated is the little
girl's paletot, as correct an article as was
ever turned out by leading tailors for
the most fastid.ous matron or dams3l.
It is a straight paletot, in mastic cloth,
for a child of six or seven years. The
front Is furnished with little squared re
veres. The fastening, a trifle to the left
of the center, is effected by threo large,
cartwheel buttons. The strapped bands of
stitched cloth are run In two strips down
the back, similar to those down the front.
Another shaped band near the top of the
coat behind, outlines a pointed yoke.
Pockets are placed low down on the coat.
The short, military collar opens In front
and the sleeves are s'mply coat-shaped.
This womanish little wrap corresponds
perfectly with the wee, mannish topcoats
and stiff hats that small boys are wear
ing. The large bonnet, which is a modi
fied dlrectoire, Is of black velvet, faced
with white liberty satin. A rosette of White
liberty satin is placed under the rim at
both sides. At the dip of the rim on top
Is another rosette of black velvet that
holds the quills of two large white os
Scarlet Velvet Gowns, '
Bright scarlet velvet. was lately select
ed for an evening gown by a stunning
girl who could afford to assume so daring
a color. The skirt, which was clinging,
was cut in points all around the bottom,
and brought to the proper length by an
annexed circular flounce of velvet of the
same shade. The flounce was not applied
smoothly at the head, but though circular
in shape, was gathered to the skirt. This
mode of applying the flounce will un
doubtedly gain in favor as the season
advances. The bodice was a Unique af
fair, with a tight, silk foundation, and
the velvet draped over It In horizontal
folds, encircling the body. It ended ab
ruptly and evenly all the way around,
just below the arms. Drawn around the
edge of this decolletage was a long sable
scarf. The scarf crossed the left shoul
der and the little sable head nestled Into
the hollow of the left shoulder in front,
while the tall hung down from the hollow
of the right shoulder. The right shoulder
was crossed by a single strand of large
pearl beads. Short sable bodies, with
heads and tails, formed a heading for the
ruffle on the skirt. A head glared from
each upward point, and the tails crossed
and hung from the lower points. The
gown was made without sleees, to be
worn with long, white kid gloves.
The remaining Illustration is of an orig
inal reception gown. The foundation of
white satin is covered with an outer gown
of black net, striped with black velvet
ribbon. Large bands of white satin, cut
in festoon shape and edged with heavy
cream entre deux, are placed around the
skirt at intervals. A narrower, festooned
band of white satin, edged with lace, Is
appllqued to the back and sides of the
bodice, not, however, meeting in front.
The ribbon on the wrinkled net sleeves is
applied horizontally. The narrow girdle
of black velvet Is fastened in front, with
an artistic oval buckle. Lace entre deux
marks the edge of the neck slope and the
tops of the sleeves which fall below the
shoulders. Shoulder straps are formed
of the same entre deux. Beneath the last
festooning of white satin on the skirt is
a plalnted ruffle of plain black net
ANITA DE CAMPL
New York Writer Declares It Warps
Woman's Sense of Honor.
The better people of America are getting
over the Idea that shopping concerns no
one but themselves. It does concern them
selves, but It concerns besides the sales
women with whom, they deal and the mar
ket which they create. A writer in the
New York Herald speaks plainly on this
subject He says:
"Shopping, as many women shop, is im
moral. I do not exaggerate In calling it
immoral. There Is, no other word strong
enough to characterize the conduct of
most persons who frequent the shop. It
Is immoral to give way to the craze for
cheapness. "Women who run about from
store to store, seeking out the cheapest
things they can find, create a demand for
shoddy, sham and tasteless wares. They
are making It necessary for working peo
ple to be demoralized and degraded by
working on unlovely and tawdry things.
This Is a crime against refinement, against
the love of the beautiful. The person who
practices it commits a crime against so
ciety. She is therefore a xlmlnal.
"The craze for cheapness does not affect
the refined patrons of the store especially.
It Is Injuring and retarding the education
of the proper artistic sense in the masses.
There was no mania for cheap wares in
early Greece, else there would have been
no Phidian statues. A nation does not
rise above Its natural level, the masses.
"The shopper's duties are divided into
two classes. They are the duties to the
shop assistants and Ge duties to Ge
working people who produce the goods.
Shoppers owe it to society, of -which the
.shop, assistants or clerks are a part, to
compel shopkeepers to give their employes
-vacations with full pay and an afternoon,
off every week. By withdrawing their
patronage from such firms as refuse to
do thlsr'the shoppers will soon be In a po
sition to dictate terms.
"Don't complain spitefully to, the sales
woman about the quality of goods kept
by the- store. Probably she would be. glad
to improve the stock If she could. Don't
blame her If she tells you tartly that she
doesn't own the store. No doubt she
would like to. Don't scold her If she chats
with other girls, while she Bhould be pay
ing close attention to you. A reproving
look, or a. word about being In a hurry,
will oe a keener rebuke."
JpattV$B&RDEN'S CHAIN GIRDLE.
drnnment "Worn By, ITe-ir Yorlc Worn.
nn Tli.t Set Tonfirncs WacKine.
Of all the remarkable fashions that the
New York season of opera' brought to 1 ght
none has heen more talked of, according
to the New York Herald, than the long
gold chain worn as a girdle by Mrs. I.
The chain consists of heavy, large gold
links. Instead of encircling the waist like
the usual girdle or belt It is fastened
at the hack, so that It stays In place
at the waist llnev but in, the front It
does -aol come close together, and the
chains. Teach to within an inch or so of
'- ' IIP
ORIGINAL RECEPTION GOWN.
the bottom of the gown, where they are
joined.J)y a heavy gold ball.
This girdle, or, more properly speaking,
decoration, excited much comment at the
opera. Girdles of large gold or sliver
links have been fashionable for some
time, but none of them reached anywhere
near the knees, to say nothing of falling
to the bottom of the gown. The most
novel use they have been put to Is to
hold the muff.
"When Mrs. Burden's long gold chain
was first observed at the opera, It was
thought that it was designed only to
wear "with an evening costume. But since
then she has been seen at an afternoon
tea, in a black cloth, gold-trimmed street
costume, weaing this same long chain
SPANGLED TqULLE GOWNS.
They Retain Their Vogme for For
mnl Dinners How Made.
TTor formal dinner gowns, spangled tulle
retains Its elegance. Many of the new
models are of exquisite refinement, and,
though they' are costly beyond price, their
facsimiles are not unavailable, even to
women of comparatively moderate means.
For any visiting dressmaker, at a few
dollars a day, can make up a smooth
fitting, net gown, detached from Its silk
foundation. And the wearer herself Is a
poor needlewoman if she cannot spangle
the net after it is made up. Coarse net Is
preferable to a fine quality, and the span
gles should be selected to match the color
of the foundation. Designs embroidered
in spangles are more effective than a
mere sprinkling of spangles. One might
imagine this to be very dlflicult, but, in
reality, those who know how to go about
fancy work of thi3 practical sort find it
quite simple. Here is the way to embroi
der a net gown, with a design of leaves
done In paillettes, the original model of
which cost $400, and the duplicate some
thing like $30:
The foundation of gold-colored taffeta
is made tight-fitting, with a long, slender
train. The black net over-dress is cut and
fitted by the same pattern as the founda-
tion, with a bias seam at Ge back oi tne
skirt. Maple leaves, as big as one's nana,
with the fingers stretched out, are em--bEoXdejcd
on the net. In gold spangles,
with a zigzag streak of spangles running
over the net between the leaves. The pat
tern need not be stamped on Ge net if
these directions are followed.
Draw a large, conventional maple leaf
- ., , i , . JL
on paper or tracing cloth. Pin it down hoop, cleaned thoroughly. Cotton bat- are between $800 and J8C0 a year The
carefully to the net; then, with a needle ting, sprinkled with sachet powder, is average salary is X& a week, but no nurse
and white cotton thread, run a basting fastened to Ge frame, which is then can work consecutively through Ge year,
thread all around the edge of the paper covered with two widths of ribbon, run even if she had the opportunity. In ad
leaf, not, of course, running the needle together and mousquetaired. Ribbon suf- dltlon, her working years are limited,
through the paper. Unpin the leaf from flcient for a long loop (for hanging) and and there comes consequently a rainy day
the net, and you have its outline left on a D0TO. are then fastened to the center, that should be provedld for. To do this.
Ge net In white cotton. This whole out- anQ tnlg dainty addition to a woman's as "well asr to render assistance during
line is to be filled in wiG gold spangles.
slightly overlapping one anomer, use
scales. Hepeat Gls process at regular,
or, If preferred, irregular Intervals, all
over Ge net, and connect the leaves with
a crooked streak of spangles.
Thn design is rendered more vivid by
I having each spangled leaf outlined, after
it is finished, with, black chenille cord.
Jet may be used instead of. gilt spangles,
with more sober result The bottom of
the skirt would be ravishlngly lovely. If
It were finished with a whole row of ma
ple leaves, placed side by side, with the
points turned down and falling over a
plaited frill of taffeta or liberty satin, ap
plied to the foot of the foundation skirt.
Imitation Serpents Used as Every
Kind of Ornament.
Gentle woman, who shudders at the
sight of a real snake, Is buying imitation
snakes just now "by the hoxfuL And they
-are being bought to wear. The newest
hair ornament which the hair dresser
recommends madame to buy is a wrig
gling snake. The latest decoration for a
decollete bodice is a snake. The most
correct buckles for belt and stock are of
curiously wrought silver in the form of
colled snakes. There are snake- rings,
snake bracelets, snake garter buckles,
snake umbrella handles. In fact, madame,
arrayed in her snakes, looks, says the NeV
York Journal, In discussing this latest
vagary of fashion, the Incarnation of Me
dusa. As a hair ornament the snake Is gen
erally a mass of glittering jets. It 13
about as thick as one's finger, and to be
properly placed, the serpent should be
colled about the knot of hair at the too
of the headso that It looks ready to
spring, with its head up and the forked
tongue protruding. This snake Is worn
,&X &e jtjVv
by the chaperon with gray hair and the
debutante wlth golden locks. Tor dark
haired women there are snakes made 0?
eleaminc silver nallettesr.
J """"m '
"Wlred jetted Serpents are now sold with sure of appreciation,
spangled gowns, to outline the low-cut "The only trouble," said one of the stn
corsage. It Is also a fad to have a jetted ' dents to a reporter of the New York Mail
snake colled about the bare arm, and and Express, "is that the lecturers seem
snakes ''of black silk, wired and studded to Gink it necessary to adjust their re
with rhlnestones, are used as well as the i marks to what they consider our level,
jetted serpents. Tortoise-shell combs, and most of Gem fire very much too low.
with the top In the form, of a wrlcgling
snake, are also the vogue.
It was at a department store bargain
counter for odds and ends. The crush was
terrific. "Women squeezed and elbowed
and shoved to get alongside the counter.
Frequently two of Gem happened to pick
up the same bargain at one and the same
time, and Gen they both retained their
clutch on it and looked daggers at each
other until the stronger of the two won
the victory, or the bargain was rent into
A haughty matron, with an electric seal
coat, picked up a box containing three
cakes of Imported soap for 8 cents, at
the same moment Gat a humble-looking
little woman, in a faded tan coat, had
fastened her grasp on the box.
"I believe I was the first to take hold
of this," said the matron in the electric
seal coat, freezingly.
Thfl humble-looklne little woman held on
for a minute, studying her antagonist, then
she slowly relaxed her hold on the box.
"Well, you can have It," she said amia
bly. "You look as If you need the soap."
Wonld Like to Get Her.
v The gossip about the engagement of
Prince Henri, of Orleans, and Mls3 May j
Goelet, of New York and London, In
creases In spite of the fact that Mrs. Goe
let denies it. Prince Henri, when ap
proached about Ge matter, only smiles, in this country. Yet only now, saya Har
and It la evident that Ge marriage to so per's Bazar, has a movement been started
WOULD YOU BE STRICTLY IN
UMBRELLAS WITH HEADS AFTER
wealthy an American girl would be very
desirable to him. The fact remains, in
' spite of all denials, that the Orleanlst
prince is continually witn tne tioeieis.
ana mat aiiss jiiay aoes not seem to tun-
like the handsome Bourbon at all.
Dhlnf) Clothes Hangers.
Gowns wear much better when hung
away properly. A dainty hanger can be
made from a quarter of an old barrel
wardrobe Is complete.
Mixed Those Bandies Up.
Two women shop the livelong day
The Joyous hours speed fast away;
All night they groan; they dwell afar,
And mixed their bandies on the car.
She has no dog: to foodie.
She has no eat to pet:
She doea net own a parrot.
She leads no social set; ,
She writes 'no learned papers
Tb read where wosaea eet
But she can gettap fishes
JlerjHisboiHi likes te eat.
Juaik. they are savlag: money.
And find that lite la sweet
S. E. Klser Is Chleago Times-Herald?
WOMEN IN MEDICAL W0RIC
Difucaltles Attending Her Introdac-
tion to the Practice of the Heal
ins Art Sltaation Novr.
"The history of the movement for in
troducing women Into the full praetiee of
the medical profession," wrote Mrs. Mary
Putnam JacobI, the noted woman doctor
of New York, recently, "Is one of the
most interesting of modern times. This
movement has already achieved much.
and far more than is often supposed. Yet
the Interest Ilea even less In what has
been so far achieved than In the oppo
sition which has been encountered; In the
nature of this opposition; in the pretexts
on which it has been sustained, and In
the reasonings, mere or less disingenuous,
by which It ha9 claimed Its Justification.
The history, therefore, Is a record not
more of fact than of opinion. And the
opinions expressed have often heen so
gravevand solid In appearance, yet proved
so frivolous and empty In view of the
subsequent event, that their history Is not
unworthy careful consideration among
that of other solemn follies of mankind.
The first woman of any note to apply
for permission to attend lectures at the
Harvard medical school was Miss Harriet
K. Hunt, of Boston. This was In ISiT,
but It was not until 1860, one year after
Elizabeth Blackwell had heen graduated
at Geneva, that she obtained any degree
of success. Miss Btackwed Is credited
with being the first person upon the Amer
ican continent to whom, the idea of a
woman studying medicine had come. She
and her sister, with the aid of a few gen
erous friends, opened a little dispensary
for women and children, which after three
years of existence, and one of suspension.
developed into the New York Infirmary.
"Marie Zakzrowska was the fojrth re
cruit to this little band of noble women,
and Miss Ann Preston, of Philadelphia,
was the fifth. Later Dr. Longshore was
the first woman to settle In practice in
New York, and her sign was regarded as
a monstrous curiosity, collecting street
Idlers for Its perusal.
"The change from the forlorn conditions
of the early days has been most rapid,
and those who survived the early strug
gle and whose energies were not so ab
sorbed by its external difficulties that not
enough were left for the Intrinsic dlfll
cultles of medicine, have been really in
vigorated by the contest. It Is as in
the fable of Antaeus, 'Those knocked
down to the earth gained fresh strength
as they touched the ground.' "
TACTLESS PUBLIC MEN.
College Girls Resent Superior Airs
by Those Who Address Them.
Several times each year notables are In
vited by the faculty of Smith college to
address the young women students. These
lectures are usually well attended by, the
college girls, and a good address is always
' If Gey would only treat us like ordinary
human beings, it would be all right. Some
of them seek to please us by cheap gal
lantry, while others evidently regard us
as a queer species of abnormally serlous-
i minded creatures. These latter give long
quotations which they have laboriously
, ,,.. ,,- fnr h iCT1,r!n n-aBinn
i - -
"When Mr. Hopklnson Smith talked to
us last year his lecture was, In the main,
very entertaining, but he unfortunately
started off with some passes about 'the
beautiful assembly of highly cultivated
young ladles,' and being 'dazzled by such
a concentration of lovely femininity.' We
were beginning to think Gat Hopklnson
Smith was not really Ge man he was
represented to be, when he settled down
and gave us a really Interesting talk,
which we all enjoyed. f
"Another time Mr. Israel Zangwill came
to speak. We heard Gat he had been in
quiring about us from the professors,
'What are they like?' he asked. 'Are
tbey Intelligent Intellectual? He was evl-
! dently afraid Gat we might be unable to
follow him in his flights of thought; but
none of us had much trouble in doing so.
In fact, he seemed to us to be quite or
dinary." ARMY OB TRAINED NURSES.
Twenty Thousand of Them In Amer
icaMovement In Their Behalf.
Twenty-five years ago Ge first trained
nurse began in America her beneficent
work. Today there are over 20,000 nurses
for their benefit in case of sickness or
death, though in England one founded by
Princess Christian has long existed. It fa
a well-known fact that no Insurance
company will Issue sick benefit policies to
nurses, on account of Ge risks In the pur
suance of their calling. There is a tradi
tion, too, Gat the trained nurse must
accumulate money rapidly because her
wages when in service are high.
The actual truth of the matter is that
the average earnings of the trained nurse
any temporary incapacity while at work.
la the object of the Trained Nurses'
unuea Aia society oi America.
The association was organized and in
corporated by a special act of Go New
York legislature, which was promptly apt
proved by Governor Rooeeveit lasMacch.
In addition to Ge relief 'of trafaed nurses
twho are detained fresa daty on a's-J
ac Mtneog or accident, and the pa.:
mi & lunerai oeaem m. ease of dea la
socMty aims to seevro the means c
operation and coartttn&Mon, cerUL" c
substantial banolite for ttx mem, - -
tag oMs of rest: veetmteu-v loan i -
ot .temporary die treat & siekntss r i
ondawud hods and eventually it "iop,a
AJBT traiMK MKHIMMr 38 VftLTn n r,i
cwo.js Ratmr serviee and good i-
awa woHs-a eestmcate show'-g
ims wan -rw years' training in a I i
iptta. is eligible for Berabershl?
jmumwB no is ?, ana taere are cesl.l
moBCBiy daes on a provisional sca.2
DOLLS AD LIBITDM.
Success of Leaden Trata Shot
Genereas "Wemea Contributors.!
The Kr annual doll show held tr
aa ur ease on Tentiy an c,
Mm dolls wore exhibited at Koyu A -.
I Bail, which was donated for the uc a:
Prises were offered by Truth, for Vxo Lei
aEessed doll, the handsomest doJ. ctl
admission was charged the pub i.c, ai
L after the show, the dolte were dULi.J
to nearly 360 hospitals, workhouses, w:
noose seaeete and marmaries.
Women had worked for weeks to d'
ine sous, a jars, itawaon won tn p.
lor the greatest nueer of costumed
tsbe having, with the assistance of a
friends and her daughter, dressed 4CC
r tnem. .Each of these dolls was r!
vraea witn six removable garments n
tog in all VM garments, which ha I i .
cut ana nttea. Jars. Jtawson is ia
of age, and every year she Increase la
contributions to the show
A Mrs. Llndo was not far behind Ma
Rawson In the work, she having Jim i
to her credit. Mrs. D. Levitt drear d
knitting all their garments, eaca o li
dolls carried a tiny nag m Its hand
Levitt's daughter dressed 62 do l3,
them In infantry costumes, wi'h, a C
strung round their necks, filled with s-
Aa immense number of scrapbooka
raise contributed by women lnteres
the little waifs. Some of the con ri
spent a whole year preparing hern
were filled with eolored pictures, hn
ous" stories for children and many p 1
graphs, contributed by a London b
tfcon company A Mrs. Tom Ins ga.-o
books which she had pasted, w i .
assistance of friends. Two hundrJ w
sent by Mrs. McKane and Miss G. Hz
Two of the moat attxaotlva books, wjj
contributed by children. One of Gem
made by Miss Marjorie Combe, da s .
of Lady Constance Combe, a cM.d cr
44 years old. The other was contr' u
oy a imie tame soy, 9 years of ai
named Henry Aersy. son of a laborer
was sent as a present to the ruh
at the lad's special request. He was
lous, be safd, being an Invalid hlmsi
that some child in the hospital she a 11
amused by the scrapbook her had made!
bis own unaided efforts.
Says a woman writer in, Ge Chics
A kiss through a veil Is like chamj
through a straw.
Chaperons are counter irritants to
Men never really love their babies.
only respect them for their family
There is a charm about another fell:
widow Gat few men can associate
A girl never quite forgives a man
kissing her nose by mistake.
If brides wore wreaths of oranges
instead of the araage.felonpona.i., how odd
Hammocks are webs in which C--i
gives an imitation of a spider
Pacadiee produces Ge moat succe
crop of wild oats on veoord.
Many a ehap who looks, like a Gri
For His Bfrthday.
This pretty design for ornamentlne a t
lng paper caeo won a prize at an EngUab
blbltlOB of needtework. It is a basket cf
clone la ribbon work ea a ground of tvory
god has been refused by some snub-noi
girl who preferred cold cash to &
Illustration for domestic use
When you have had appendicitis
been through supplementary proceed
you begin to get too blase for anythJ
"When Mother Sana:.
A rohta sang.
The duH world wakened from Ha sleep.
Oast off M refee of wteter sadness.
The leaves Xrsm heedsse 'gaa. to peep.
The fcaafts overflowed in Jotty madness.
AH nature MetsBed to the warning
And laaghed with glee la sprtngtuae'B ma
"Whea robin sang.
A poet sang.
It was a sens that reaehect tae heart
Of Haaay a hmh, of every woBses,
H was the fruit of perfect art,
X shewed a power envtaely human.
Sis aame was known to ail. and then
Fame ea her tablets wrote it, when
The poet saag.
A mother sang.
Two nttle eyelids Winked and drooped,
Aad bright curls nestled on aer breast.
Contentment's bounty rtehry trooped;
Sweet mnoeeaee found loving rest.
The stameer fairies tiptoed near.
And all the angels stopped to hear
"When mother seag.
Lae Veraon m Muslo and
Ancient Wedding: Customs.
The "best man" at a wedding was fi
merry one of a band of friends vtzio
cotapaaied a suitor m his wifew'
and kept watch for him over the br J
tribe, while the lover sought tee w pi
tunity to carry off his prize The hoz
moon journey was the hurried fllL
the husband with his wife, to escape
vengeance of the pursuing tribe
presents given the bridesmaids and usli
are simply a relic of Ge rough r
ueed by the ancient bridegroom ar
hte personal friends so that thy w-i
assist in the capture of his chosen L
when Ge day arrived on whi a h-1
determined to carry her off
In the 18th century a bride if one "f
arietoeracy often received X rl"S3 r-
her relatives and six Iron the bn 3
two when he became interest 1
two for the espousal and two wle -
"Better Give Him Jessie."
It fe rotated that when the " r5
who afterward became Generaj 1 "i
I ran. away with and married Jessie Be
Tom. Beaton, the great senator i r ' i
made terribie threats of what 1- w
do w the young mas. Be would g '
roasts and bufletg and hades to i
I which Mrs. Benton qiuetly remarked
aaa oecxor give ana joaoro, my ucu.