The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current, February 10, 1895, Page 13, Image 13

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    THE STTSTDAT" OBEGOjSTA POETTxAJSiyr THSB&UAJsrr 10, 1S95.
33
SYMPATHl.
If we should be so quick of heart.
So keen ol eight.
That we could feel eaeh shadow's gloom.
Each blossom's bHght,
The fairest of earth's blue-gold days
Would turn to nlsht
If we should grow so swift to feel
Each human pain
That for caeh aching human heart
Ours ached again.
Xufe were ail weariness and Joy
Grown poor and -aln.
Some eeunte are lost In silence, though
"We reverent hark;
borne sights are shut from anxious eyes
By pitying dark.
Ihe limit of the soul's out-glft
Has finite mark.
Grace DuffleM Goodwin In Harper's Bazar.
Harlij .ftdvices.
Reliable Information Concerning
Spring Styles.
NEW YORK. Feb. 9. Though a few
models have burst prematurely from the
cocoon of fa&hion, styles for spring- gowns
arc still in a chrysalis stage.
It will take just four weeks more,
truthful couturieres admit, to bring the
new crop of butterflies to modish perfec
tion; but even then, it seems quite safe
to assume the highest excellence of the
coming season will not yet be born.
It is not for the early bird Dame Fash-
a--
i 4id?R&1'
A THEATER COSTUME.
Ion putsrth her best worms, but rather
for heWijjnUnTiinUfttheVseason-lsi
well on Its feet, profits "by all the mis
takes her rushing sisters have made, and
so achieves perfection.
But, as our dear, dead Stevenson has
written, "to be overwise is to ossify," in
time.
Instead of an admirable waiting instinct
a quick eye for a good tiling may rather
be desired; and among all the "left-overs,"
"renovateds" and wickedly ugly things
that are heralding the coming month, two
new spring costumes may be mentioned
as things to look upon and not fear.
FOR THE STREET.
The first, a strictly walking suit of black
Fnglish serge, is made with a full flared
skirt and a short, cutaway coat.
The shape of the skirt differs in no great
degree from the winter model of the front
gores and godet back. Instead of the
deadly heavy haircloth, however, the in
terlining is of the lighter grass-cloth, a
Paqufn wire braid giving the proper stand- j
off effect at the feet. The Jacket, whose i
short bottom flares slightly over the hips
and lies at the back in two lnturnlng
plpzts, is tight-fltting. It opens over a
trim, high-collared vest of blue and white
pique, and the large sleeves are glgot
shaped and held in place at the top with
spurring. This shirring, by the way, marks
all the new tailor-sleeve tops. The cut
uiiay Jacket, too, Is offered as a rival for
EARLY SPRING
the longer coat, and a younger fancy for
this than the one described is to have tha
ta.l ripple stigktly all round.
TAILOR SLEEVES.
T.ie beet tailor sleevs yet seen are, as
I crvtofore. huge mutton-leg affairs, cut
ca the bias. They are not perceptibly
tUffened, but are held gracefully out by a
e-lA linen interlining, and often good ef
Z ts are made by laying the lower Inskio
-ram in pleats. This brings much of the
f-illness from underneath, and it Is bal
anced by a cluster of pleats at the upper
inside seam, the two causing the sleeve
to fall over the ami in heavy half-ring
fells. Another becoming sleeve being
adopted for new tailor gowns is made with
a vast upper arm puff and a long cuff,
that fits the forearm like a glove. The
puff drops sharply from the shoulder, the
outward bulge that now distinguishes all
modish sleeves coming only at the lower
part.
SPRING SKIRTS.
As to new wrinkles in skirts, authorities
c ffer en the all-lmpertent matter. A gen
tleman famed for swagger English gowns
vowa that they are to be more stiffened
f-aa ever, mer ivired in the bargain, anl
lhacatthebaok; the great cages will swell
c-.t from the waist, with a little teumure
effect. A lady with French leanings
i ' . 5rjV5ASWCa i
?'$$&
swears solemnly that the English gentle
man speaks with a forked tongue, claim
ing that though the new skirts will be
wider than ever before, their grace and
dash will be a matter only of cut. She
illustrates hersermon with two captivating
models.
EARLY MODELS.
One of black crepon, which material,
we are informed, is to be more popular
than ever, fits with bias smoothness over
the hips and half way down to the knee,
beginning then to suddenly undulate un
til, about the feet, it falls in flounce-like
fullness all round.
The second, a walking affair of brown
and white whip cord, has the novelty
of having only three seams. The cloth
Is very wide, one great piece compassing
entirely front and sides. The back Is cut
after the godet principle, but is in only
two gores; they are caught underneath
with elastics into four graceful folds, and
grass cloth is the Interlining.
LEATHER TRIMMINGS.
This skirt formed part of the second
costume already mentioned as a good
thing that should be recognized on sight.
Its trimming, which took the shape of two
yellow leather bands, was put on in a
unique fashion. Neither came any fur
ther than the limits of a widish front
gore, the top one being shorter than the
lower, and each finished at the end with
a smart leather buckle. This leather was
repeated in the body, which was a French
imitation of an English Norfolk jacket
and a vast Improvement on the stiff orig
inal, of course.
The Norfolk effects wero made by
slashing the whipcord to show straight
leather bands sewed on the lining, and
the collar and belt were also leather,
neatly fastened with buckles like those on
the skirt. Two short flared tabs hung
like a tall from under the belt, covering
only the hips, the back space being filled
in by the skirt, which was uncommonly
full at his point. Sieves, large mutton
legs, -with turn-over, pointed cuffs of
leather.
NORFOLK JACKETS.
Together with the little Eton bodices
that have long proved their economical
worth, Norfolk jackets, or Norfolk ef
fects, are quoted as likely to flood the
later spring market.
FOR DRESSY TOILETS.
When it comes to visiting toilets, or
other very dress-up frocks, it is plain to
be seen that extreme fullness is to be the
order of the new day. Distlhct contrasts
in color appear, too, to be an established
principle.
An adorable visiting toilet by Worth,
that master of tone harmonies. Is of gold
en brown crepon and moss green peau de
sole. The skirt, which is entirely of the
crepon and untrimmed, is the full French
circular shape. The bodice begins with a
round yoke of golden brown velvet; over
this hangs a blouse of green peau de sole,
made trim at the back, with a slight
gathering and hanging In a bag front.
The large sleeves are of the peau do sole,
with crepon caps, and at the wrists, as
well as about the round neck of the
blouse, there is a rich jewel embroidery In
dull copper: belt and collar of brown vel
vet. onthe,bIas. . NINA FJTCH. h
A SPINSTER'S DINING-ROOM
How Jolly Girl Bachelors Arrange
Their SulIc-n-Mnnser.
The scheme of decorations In this tiny
refectory was blue and white, and first
of all, the walls were covered with paper,
which might have had a facsimile in
some Japanese tea-house, it was so like
old Canton China, and so thoroughly Or
iental. This was given a plain blue
frieze, which at once added the decided
color touch needed in any apartment
where white is a prominent factor.
The room I mean is one of those small
but cozy little affairs found only in the
modern apartment dwelling. Now, my
bachelor girls are clever young women,
and they at once saw the absurdity of
filling up the small space In their salle-a-mangcr
with a cumbersome, conventional
sideboard, which, of course, according to
common-place ideas, must occupy the
place of honor.
In this little domicile something far
more ingenious, artistic and altogether
out of the ordinary was destined for that
position. But I must not forget the car
pet Blue and white is rather a difficult
combination to follow out In floor covering,
but "every thing comes to him who
waits," as it did in this case, and after
TOILETS.
j many long and fruitless hunts our friends'
j efforts were crowned with suocess. A
J blue and white Japanese rug was found
lIBt tl.A ol. A lt.. Ak.
Tho sideboard is a shelf made to look
like. and. in fact, suggested by, the dress
era found in old-time New England coun
try houses, only, of course, built on a
more modern plan. It was designed by
one of the clever bachelors, then made of
plain pine wood by a carpenter, and fin
ally given two or three coats of white
enamel paint, which gave It a beautiful
luster. A more charming resting place for
the choice bits of china can hardly be Im
agined. The shelves are full to overflowing with
all sorts of exquisite blue-and-whlte ware,
from the rare Delft faience to mellow old
Canton, and here and there a choice bit
of Copeahagn is found. One feels as
though he could never tire of its vague
and shimmer- designs so far below the
wonderful glaze.
Resting directly below the shelves was
a table (a kitchen table, by the way.) also
painted with the white enamel, and cov
ered with a dainty white linen cover, em
broidered in blue. Ker w fnnnil tUe.
bachelor's chafing-dish, tea-caddy, orack-
er-jar, etc, in fact, everything one looks
for on the ordinary buffet.
"This is our Punch and Judy show,"
said one of the girls pointing to what
looked to my untutored eye like a very
unique stamling shelf.
I was let Into one of the family secrets,
and told that it was once udoii a. time a
hookcase, but by painting It white and
ingeniously turning it upside down It was
soon eonvprtod intn mitt th vrMot- nt
of furniture I have ever seen. Across tho
lower shelf a curtain was drawn of blue
and white Japanese calico, and on the
one uncovered shelf reposed six or seven
blue German beer mugs, with quite a Bo
hemian air about them.
Even the pictures on the wall seemed
to be in harmony with the quaint little
room, all of them being framed in white.
The table of light oak was covered be
tween meals with a blue dinner cover,
embroidered in a dashy white design. Tha
curtains were white swiss with large blue
dots, and finished with a generous ruffle,
simplicity itself, but In perfect accord
with the surroundings.
Everything about the place vas so full
of refinement, and gave snch evidence of
artistic feeling, and yet was so altogether
homelike and cozy, that I felt a pang of
envy when I said good-by, and I knew
then why the bachelor girls' home had so
deservedly earned the appellation of "The
Little Paradise on the Hill."
CHARLOTTE DILLAGE.
DIANA IN GLOVES.
The Maiden Up t Date Mnit Be a.
Smart and Graceful Boxer.
NEW YORK, Feb. 9. Fashion has de
creed that good, old-fashioned boxing is
about the best exercise for a woman if
she wishes to be lithe and graceful and
possess dignity and repose of manner.
In the best of all exercises, every mus
cle in the body is used; those of the head,
ZEFT-JIAND LEAD OFF
arms, llmbs.-feet end hands are altfealled
into play, and a woman's physical train
ing Is incomplete without a knowledge of
this art of self-defense.
In more than one New York home, a
bevy of girls, intimate friends, meet to
gether twice a week with a professor of
boxing to instruct in the art.
Provided with a pair of gloves, and at
tired in a loose-fitting costume one's last
season's tennis costume will do two girls
may learn something of sparring, a good
deal, In fact, without a piofessor.
SPARRING EQUIPMENT.
An uncarpeted room is best for this
sport. The opponent must be as near
your own weight and height as possible.
The best gloves are the white ones used
by professionals, as they are not apt, to
scratch the face or blacken the eyes,
which the cheap buckskin gloves almost
Invariably do, in heavy sparring. The
white gloves are made of kid, and cost
from $3 50 to $7 50. Thus equipped, the
two would-be Atalantas are ready to
start out upon their boxing career.
CORRECT POSITIONS.
Position is the first thing to consider.
The left foot should be flat on the ground
and pointed in a direct line with your ad
versary; the right heel in a line with and
behind the left heel; the toe of the right
foot should be turned slightly out. The
distance between the feet should be from
12 to 15 inches, according to the height.
Both knees should be slightly bent, and
the right heel raised, so that the weight
of the body will rest on the ball of the
foot. To advance, move the left foot for
ward about 10 inches; to retreat step back
the same distance with the right foot.
After the ceremony of shaking hands,
the position "on guard" is assumed. For
this the heel of the right foot must be on
a line with the heel of the lft, and the
toes slightly turned out. The right arm
should be across, or- on a line with the
lower ribs, the linger knuckles touching
the left breast.
The left hand should extend on a line
with the elbow and your opponent's face,
and when not In motion should rest easily
against the side.
FEINTS AND BLOWS.
There are In all but four blows In box
ing. They are tho left and right-hand
head blow; the left and right-hand body
blow. It Is the innumerable variations on
these four simple movements that make
boxing a science.
The left-hand head blow is the most
common one used in sparring. For this
movement, straighten the arm and strike
directly at your opponent's face.
The guard for this blow is to throw the
fore-arm up and outward, turning the
palm of the hand out, so that the force
of the blow will be received on the fleshy
part of the arm; keep the elbow down,
and extend the arm only far enough to
turn the blow from the face.
In the right-hand head blow, or "the
right-hand lead off for the face," strike
for your opponent's face with the right
hand, throwing the right side and shoul
der forward.
To avoid a right-hand lead-off, duck to
the left. "Duck," or "guard." for the
face may be described as follows: Raise
the arm to a level with the center of the
face, bend the head forward and to the
icft. This enables you to see your op
ponent under your arm. The fore-arm
should cross the faee and be thrown for
ward to turn the blow.
The left-hand body blow is aimed at the
pit of the stomach. It can best be done
by feinting (1. e., pretending to strike at
another place) with the right hand, to in
duce your opponent to throw up her left
hand, thus exposing the stomach. The
guard, or counter, for this attack is to
turn the palm of the band down and float
the blow off with the fore-arm.
For the right-hand body blow the guard
is the same. The blow can also be stopped
by hitting your opponent in the face be
fore she can get her head down, though
to do so It will be necessary to foresee her
intentions. Keep the right hand across
the stomach when attempting this ma
neuver. NECESSARY PRACTICE.
To combine theory with practice, it will
be necessary to practice both the offensive
- Xooggu
and defensive of all blows. The best way
is to practice each blow slowly at first,
and increase the speed gradually, until
the blows are made smartly and in as
rapid succession as posslble.
These few hints give only the alphabet
of boxing, but the maiden who practices
these blows, both offensive and defensive,
will find that she will have gained a
strength of muscle that will repay her for
the time spent at her boxing bout. You
may not care to knock your two brothers
about like sticks whlch is the proud boast
of one Fifth-avenue damsel since she be
gan her boxing lessons but, perhaps, you
may like to show by the way you dance,
or ride, or 'cycle, or walk, that your mus
cles have been trained in a good school.
DIANA CROSSWAYS.
FRENCH FASHION LETTER.
Theater Toilets The Paris Mntlnee
Girl Gray and Bine Model Gown.
PARIS, Feb. 9. French women at the
theater wear demi-dress, and the house
presents the same aspect as in America,
and differs, as in America, from the Eng
lish house where full dress In the stalls
and balcony gives the brilliant look of a
drawing-room. A decollete is to be seen
now and then, but not outside of a pri
vate box. In compensation for full dress
beauty and glow, the French theater
toilet, in its ideality, embodies all that is
latest in color, cut and detail of orna
ment. The French specialty par excel
lence, perhaps, is to confections a chic
high-necked dress with honnet, but not all
the dress at the theater rises to the' oc
casion; not by a good deal.
The theater gown is silk, satin or velvet
with decoration of fur, mock Jewels, lace,
etc. Toilettes all blackare very fashion
able, so are those all gray, and a pale
AND RIOnT-HAND GUARD
'tinted blouse abtSve shrte5rkii,tr"wltbr
short or half-short sleeves jnet by long
gloves, is the dress that perhaps costs
les3 and gives showiest effects within the
limits prescribed by taste and usage. At
recent first-nights the following toilettes
have been sketched that have in them new
ideas or else that are remarkable for
beauty:
SKETCHED AT THE THEATER.
Skirt and sleeves of black satin and
blouse of gray velvet trimmed with jet;
a black toque, gauze-winged, on the head,
and round the neck a black lace ruche
with a bunch of violets set in on each
side to fall just under the ears. The jet
is appliqued on to form a yoke, and from
the yoke falls a heavy jet fringe to veil
the lower half of the bodice. The black,
gray and violet form a very refined col
or combination. A different color may be
used for the bodice, as electric blue, in
which case the ruche should be all black,
or another material may be used, as
black chiffon over colored silk, for trans
parencies of this sort, though over a year
old, are still worn.
ELECTRIC BLUE FROCK.
Skirt of electric blue silk broched with
black, and Eton jacket of black velvet
with ermine collar and revers, open ver
a blouse front of gray blue lawn in fine
tucks and a stitched box plait, set off with
turquois studs; belt of black satin ribbon
with a bow on each side, the waist of two
loops and no ends, one loop falling front
and one back upon the skirt; black hat
with plumes. This toilette, without the
ermine, can be worn through the spring.
In this dress attention may be called to
the lawn blouse front, as such fronts
exquisitely needleworked and set with
mock jewel buttons promise to be a fea
ture next spring. The belt bows on each
side are one of the latest coquetries,
and of ermine it may be remarked that it
has not become common, as was predicted.
Too showy for women of taste to wear
often or in assemblies too public, it has,
curiously enough, not been much imitated,
and, therefore, it still happily strikes the
eye as a rich and beautiful noveltv.
Gown all of gray silk broched with
black and white dots. The skirt is laid
over down the back seam in a hem fast
ened down with cut steel buttons; the
blouse has a double box plait down back
and front: steel buttons are down the
back plait, and steel passementerie cov
ers tho front one. A yoke is formed on
ANniPORTEDJIODEL.
the front each side of the plait, with an
applique of steel passementerie.
ADA CONE.
ORNAMENTS.
Graceful Modes of Draping Sharp
Anjrles anil Decorating the Piano,
Mantel Shelf and Center- Table.
NEW YORK, FebTo-.-Recently I asked
Mis3 Lewis, a professional decorator, how
she was arranging and ornamenting ta
bles, mantels, and, more than all, the
Piano, that Indispensable triangle of fur
niture so tormenting to the artistically
Inclined.
"Unless you place your piano with Its
back to the room, the case is hopeless,"
she said. "This position is not only good
from a decorative standpoint, but a per
former likes to be shielded by the instru
ment." Then she enumerated various
graceful ways to cover the polished bare
ness of this musical instrument.
To hang a square of tapestry over the
back from a brass rod is exceedingly
striking. If possible, let the painted sub
ject relate to music or sentiment, and
have it sufficiently large to cover the
surface of the piano.
If the tapestry is very fine work, its sur
face should be unspoiled by additions.
;'.-y-
"-:'&- f---
JfAXTLE AND TABLE DECORATION.
Across the top of the piano lay a scarf of
Liberty silk or another painted panel. The
only bric-a-brac that combines with this
drapery is a pair of candelabras, the
quainter in style the better.
Algerian stripes, Bagdad tapestry or
Persian prints make' good backgrounds.
Their cost Is l 25 a yard and width 50
inches. With this as a foundation, many
schemes may be carried out. Bas relief
heads in plaster can be swung on it with
out injuring the wood of the piano.
Medallions of Beethoven, Mozart or Wag
ner can be purchased for $1 each. A long
"
&7Jgf
SACK OF THE PIANO-
panel of cherubs goes well, or a line of
Delft or Japanese plates.
A low settle has a comfortable resting
place underneath this. Either a box seat
upholstered in dark, contrasting stuff, or
one of the i 50 green wooden settles, sold
to artists, would serve. A number of
cushions placed on the seat against the
piano add to the coziness and grace of
the decoration.
I know a Fifth avenue house where the
tea table is. placed against tho draped
back of the piano, the polished old sil
ver showing well against the Persian col
ors. Whatever other color your room is
made up in, put something rich and full
of color on the black piano, excepting, of
course, in an elaborate drawing-room, up
holstered in fairy colors.
BEAUTIFYING THE MANTEL SHELF.
A like system of drapery Is effective for
the mantel wall. That is, for those who
do not possess a large mirror, an ar
tistic wall, or those abominations a man
tel cabinet. Even with a mirror, a back
ground of rich-toned stripes or colonial
silks is more than pretty. Tills curtain
is hung without fullness from the ceiling
molding by hooks.
Far down near the mantel, place a
mirror or a long bas-relief of plaster,
such as Donatello's cherubs, the Parthe
non frieze, or any one of like ilk whose
price is not over 53. An oval mirror with
narrow black or gilt frame sells for $1S
or 520,- but the most effective are those
divided with the gilt pilasters into three
parts. These are imitated after mirrors
of "ye olden time" by a deft-fingered cabinet-maker,
at small cost.
Do not burden the mantel wall with or
naments in pairs. Have individual ar
ticles distinctly placed, and you will be
as artistic as the Japanese. In the land
of the fan only one object of value Is
brought out at a time, and placed for ad
miration in a niche. More would be ar
tistic sacrilege.
If one does not care for the Persian
tones, a background can be supplied of
figured burlap; put on as closely as wall
paper It forms an excellent panel.
A scarf of bright hued liberty silk on
the mantel board is pretty, twisted in a
heroic sailor's knot in the center, and the
ends curving along the board.
Some housewives are placing a divan
under the mantle. If the air gets its heat
from a registe-. this plan serves, and the
varied cushions heaped to the overhang
Ins scarf lend color. It is better taste,
however, to display the fireplace, arrang
ing it in decorative fashion. Small
placques let in for tiles make the best
adornment. If these are too expensive,
paint a series of mottces in old German or
English script on a solid background.
Mrs. Thompson, who owns an elegant
Madison-avenue home, has the whole his
tory of the house that Jack built told on
white porcelain tiles in blue letters. This
could be imitate! by black letters on an
old blue painted background. She also has
some of Esop's fables done in like man
ner. It is a novel decoration, and one that
is surprisingly effective.
If the architecture of the mantel is an
abomination, a board of quainter style
Mn y.o found bv investigation. Women
I have picked ip old colonial affairs, and
have bad mem suDsuuueu ior uie un
gainly ones.
The higher the shelf, the better the
style, and if it is upheld by small colonial
pillars, the effect Is perfect.
One more decorative point outside of
furniture that I learned of Miss Lewis.
All the walls are being hung with stuffs
instead of paper. This statement was
substantiated by the upholsterers. Colo
nial armure silk for stately drawing
rooms, French figured chintz for sleeping
apartments and burlaps or Agra linen
for sitting-room, parjor. dining-room and
library. It Is quite the vogue to do so,
and not at all expensive.
ADSLE M'ALLISTER.
a
THE SERPENT'S TOOTH
THE BLACK! INGRATITUDE OF TH2
SERVANT GIRL.
Bab Spcakx With a. Heart Full of
Bitterness of theWajx of Annie,
Grctchcn. and Uiddie.
NEW YORK, Feb. 5.-(Special Corre
spondence.) It's pretty hard to lose one's
faith in humanity. Think of the unhap
piness of the woman who, giving her love
to a man, finds out that she Is merely a
play toy in his life. Think of the man !
who gives to a woman his friendship and
his confidence, only to discover that his
friendship is laughed at and his secrets
are handed over to the gossips. Think
of the woman -who, in the unhappiest
hour of her life, throwing herself in the
arms of another woman, tells of her
trouble and her woe, only to hear after
wads that the hour of her unhappiness is
dramatically described for the benefit of
a ladies' luncheon party. Think of the
mistress who makes a comfortable home
and gives a proper respect to a servant,
only to discover that, materially, her be
longings are stolen, and. mentally, she
is badly treated, inasmuch as the family
talk at the table is told to the maids of
Mrs. Tom, Mrs. Dick and Mrs. Harry, and
by them repeated to their mistresses.
There is a decided tendency to condol
ing with the average servant. It is quite
time that this "cipher in society," as
Elizabeth Stuart Phelps called her, and
proved her not to be, should be truthfully
talked about. Of course, there are bad
mistresses; but I think the bad servants
outnumber them. A peasant girl, wear
ing her first pair of shoes, Ignorant of
any food better than bread and tea. Is
taken into a reputable household, given
a comfortable bed in which to sleep, a
something she never knew before, as at
home there were five or six others to
sleep with her, provided with proper be
longings that she may keep clean, is
taught the duties of a waitress, and is
given good wages and consideration. At
the end of a. year the shy, retiring peas
ant girl has, nine times out of ten, de
veloped into a loud-mouthed, loudly
dressed and sly American citizen. She
listens attentively to all that is said at
the table and among the family. She
gets to know the friends of the house,
and she is very keen at gaining a tip.
One day an objection is made to her
staying out until 2 o'clock in the morn
ing, and coming in scented with bad wrhis
ky and rousing the household with doubt
ful melody. After permitting herself to
say all the impudent things possible, she
departs and proves that she is not a ci
pher in society, but a power, and a strong
one, by writing anonymous letters to la
dies, whose names she has heard men
tioned by her former mistress, and who
have been discussed in her presence by
members of the family. A deal of trouble
is made, a number of women are doubt
ful of their friends, and yet what was said
was not meant to be malicious, and was
supposed to have died the minute after it
was born. This is the gratitude shown by
the average maid, and is but one of many
such that have come to my knowledge,
A girl who landed here without even an
extra frock was taken by a young lady
and trained as a first-class maid. Her
massuline admirers were many, and in
time, grew to be objectionable. Then the
mistress discovered that her maid was
about to become a mother; she spoke to
her about it, offered to give her any help
she could, and her kindness was met-by
a fiat denial and a flood of filthy words.
The afternoon saw the maid depart, but
the next day a letter, badly written and
spelled worse, reached the fiance of her
late mistress, and he was informed of
horrible things that never happened, of
'visits from mea that never occurred, and,
as the recipient of this lying letter hap
pened to be a jealous man, it was many
days before the woman he loved and the
woman who loved him could feel abso
lutely happy. And this unhappiness was
caused by an ignorant creature, who re
turned gratitude with malice, and with
the wicked tools of the ignorant.
It seems a dreadful thing for women to
be governed in this way, and yet there
are few houses in which there does not
exist a dread of what might be done by a
discharged and angry servant. Not long
ago, lunching with a well-known woman,
something was said by one of the guests
of the fear she had of appearing in a
certain notorious paper. Her hostess
sent the butler from the room, and then
said to her: "My dear, never say any
thing like that before a foreign servant;
my servants may be Intimate with yours,
and if one of yours happens to get angry
and wishes to vent her spite against you,
there is a weapon that you yourself have
put into her hands."
Here is another: Some years ago a
very well-known woman, living in one of
our large cities, was sued by her husband
for divorce. This woman was an Inno
cent woman, but a fool. If she had been
a knave, she would have come out of
everything successfully. Nobody clung
to her like her maid, but the very day be
fore the trial she disappeared, and the
next day was the chief witness against
her. Her foolish mistress had given her
confidence to her, and things that were
absolutely innocent in themselves, told by
the servant, were black as Erebus. The
result was that, for the sake of 5100 one
woman had ruined another woman's life,
brought shame to her children, and an
end to all happiness to one who was only
21 years old, and simply foolish.
The solution of the question would seem
to be that, while physically we should
make those in our service comfortable,
we should regard them with suspicion,
and always believe the worst of them.
But how can you do this? And how can
I do this? You and I, who have had our
closets and our dressing case3 robbed,
ourselves gossiped about and our faith
knocked into what they would call "smith
ereens." It seems a dreadful thing, but
the woman among my acquaintances
who has the- best servants, and gets the
best service treats these so-called ciphers
as if they were Indeed naught. They are
given nothing beyond their wages: they
are always spoken to in a positive, and
never in a pleasant manner, and if even
a tumbler Is broken its full value is de
ducted from their wages. The treatment
given to beautiful belongings by servants
Is something monstrous. An entire dish
cloth is shoved into a tiny liquor glass,
and then Bridget tells you
"IT JUST PARTED IN ME HANDS,
MA'AM."
The faucet in the kitchen sticks, and a
silver spoon is used to turn it with, and
then the pride of the kitchen says it must
havti been scratched on the table! Fine
napry wipe3 the stove, and embroidered
teacloths are handed over to visitors as
coming out of the ragbag. A fine hand
kerchief is missing, and, if it should be
discovered again, there is wide-mouthed
wonder, and it is insisted upon that "It
is the one. miss, that the mistress gave
me at Christmas."
That was a wi3e man who told his but
ler that he was at perfect liberty to help
himself to either brandy or whisky when
Highest of all in Leavcning Power.
ABSOmnOf PUME
ever he wished, but that he would be dis
charged the very minute it was discovered
that he had supplied the lack with water.
How s it all to end?
American girls live wretched lives, work
for starvation wages In factories, shops -l
and at trades, hut will not go out as do
mestic servants, and yet they would be
more comfortable, they would make more
money, and, being more at ease, would, it
seems to me, be more self-respectful. Tha
relations between, mistress and maid
would, if the maid were a decent, respect
able American girl, partake almost of a
maternal character; but the American
girl Is obstinate, and so, into the bosom,
of the family comes that dangerous ele-
j ment gathered from the lowest stratum,
: of society the Immoral Swede, the sulky
German, the dishonest and lying Irish
girl, and the Impertinent and positive
Scotchwoman. In their own countries
these girls would not be received In re
spectable families. The servants are
chosen from a better grade; but we, we
take to our arms, to our confidence, we
give the honor of the household, many
times, to the vilest and lowest of women.
We give them comforts they have never
known, and in time they scorn them. We
give them care they have never had, and
in time it is laughed at. We show them
consideration such as they have never
dreamed of, and they wonder what we do
it for. And generally they are mean
enough to say, as I heard one maid
"WHAT IS SHE ALWAYS SO POLITE
TO ME FOR?
Does she expect me to do extra work?"
Personally, having- been the victim oj
their ingratitude, I speak from the heart,
and I have as proof of a broken faith,
empty bottles, broken dishes, stolen linen,
battered silver, annonymous letters, and
Impudence. The last being worse than
all the rest put together. And there was
offered to the woman seeking a home &
comfortable room to herself, plenty of
clean linen, a pleasant place in which to
eat, a gentle mistress, (not myself, I may
mention), care when illness called for it,
a share in all pleasures at holiday times,
generous payment and a never-ceasing
consideration, and the return has al
ways been the same. Each new arrival
represents a hope, and in six months
time the hope is not only blighted, but
battered, torn, and having scarcely
strength enough to spring up again. This
is a very feminine talk It is between my
women friends and me. I feel that they
have all been sufferers, and it may in
terest them to know that on the list,
among them and of them is BAB.
Etiquette of the Dancinr Party.
There are four elements essential to a
successful dancing party effective decora
tions, brilliant illuminations, a well-appointed
supper and the best of music, as
many string pieces as the hostess can
afford.
Lemonade, tempered with apolllnaris
water, is appropriately served in a punch
bowl at one end of the reception-room.
Either the man or maid servant who
opens the front door must remain in the
hall, giving clear directions of the way
to the dressing-rooms.
There should be a capable woman al
ways In attendance in this same apart
ment, for tfre taking off of wraps, button
ing gloves and adjusting shoes.
On the dressing-table there should be
all the feminine appurtenances' of the
toilet, such as shoe and glove buttoners,
hair-pins, large and small toilet perfumery
and face powder, the maid remaining dur
ing the evening in the room to repair
dresses if a stitch gives away during the
dancing hours.
If dancing is to take the form of a co
tillion, chairs should be provided for the
mothers or chaperones; all other furni
ture being removed, and breakable objects
carefully stored away for that one night.
Young- girls ought to dress in light colors'
of gauze-like materials or fluffy stuffs,
combined with delicate silks. But all cos
tumes should be selected to enhance the
youthful appearance, while their elders
wear demi-tollettes becoming the occa
sion. The hostess can receive her guests alone,
or if she has daughters or young friends,
they can assist her. But the eldest son, or
some young man friend, should for that
one evening be the master of ceremonies,
making himself generally useful in ar
ranging affairs.
The hostess stands near the drawing
room door, her daughters or young friends
a few feet away, yet near enough to re
ceive the guests before the dancing com
mences. A young lady enters the room, first, her
chaperone following.
If there are ladles without a chaperone
coming with their maids, then the. eldest
should take precedence. But generally
the chaperone is on hand. A young mar
ried lady, accompanied by her husband,
naturally takes precedence. But to enter
leaning on the arm of her husband is in
very bad taste.
The dancing should be begun by the
eldest daughter of the house, the hostess
selecting for her partner her nearest kins
man or friend.
A basket of flowers sent the same day
of the dance to the hostess of the occa
sion is a graceful attention. And a gen
tleman can in good taste send a box of
loose flowers to any young lady whom he
knows will be his partner in the cotillion.
Young ladies after a dance request their
partners to leave them with their chape
rones after the german.
Young women would do well to remem
ber that new dances appear nearly every
season, and to be a success as a dancer
it is necessary to acquire the last new
ballroom step.
Either the hostess or one of her family
should be the person selected when an
Introduction is desired at a dancing party.
All good waltzers are eagerly sought
after, but care should be taken that no
one gentleman should have this favor ex
tended to him too often.
A young lady refusing one gentleman
for a dance and accepting another, is a
breach of social etiquette. If a refusal is
once given, then she should not dance in
that set, whatever it may be.
The clever hostess takes care that all
guests have partners. The "wall flower"
is unknown in the house of a good social
leader.
The host leads, with the most distin
guished lady present, the way to the supper-room,
the hostess being the last per
son to enter. A young lady can be taken
into supper by some gentleman who de
sires to do this duty for her, and it is to
him alone she should expect attention at
this time. OLfVER BELLE BUNCE.
FROM AX OLD PAItTERRE. .
By evening came a thousand stars
And shone o'er stately Babylon,
While from the window-lattice bars
A captive prince looked down upon
The rher that flowed ever en.
Beneath him In an old parterre
A Syrian slrl reclined at ease
And touched her lute with meaning rare,
While in and out amonir the tree
Came murmurs of the dying brcese. '
She touched her lute with jneanins rare
And sang an oW romantic lay.
The prince forgot hts evening prajcr,
And. taking up his oooe.
Began m Mtftened tone to play.
He wooed the maid; perchance he won;
Alas the irtory ended there.
Some kins that racked great Babylon
Lett but a single pajte to bear
Tills echo from the oW parterre.
Bufus M. Glbbs.
Latest U. S. Gov't Food Report-