THE STT3TDAX OREG03TTA3F POBTllAJSTJ; JA2sTUABY 13, 1895.
18
COMPENSATION.
2ra. though these trembling limbs should cease
to bear
The drooping body that they now uphold;
Tfcough life's faint flame should flicker many a
year.
And keep this breathing corpse above the
mould;
though I should be of everything bereft.
By friends forsaken, helpless and forlorn.
Alethlnks as long as life itself were left.
All things, but one. could patiently be borne.
3 would not bid the lurking spoiler stay
His lifted hand. If I should live to see
Thy face, at last. In coldness turn away.
Thy dear familiar lips grow strange to me
Feu: when, with tender touch, my own they
greet.
Piin Is not pain, and sorrow is most sweet.
LOUIS A. ROBERTSOX.
Ma$qiJeCost:ifiDes.
Some Popular, Unique Dresses and
Conceits for tlicMasqueradcSenson.
NEW YORK. Jan. 12. In -what may be
called th mid-season of "winter gaiety is
the moment when fancy costumes begin
to play important parts in the feminine
world.
Sad-faced Lent, -with penitence in hand,
is coming, to put an end to merry-making;
IJ
MUSUR003T COSTUHE.
and so it is we abandon ourselves first to
indulgence in mad masques and revels,
to all the costume games and dances we
have Jong- delighted in, and which are
yearly inaugurated by the festival of
TwelfUi Night.
The costumed gaieties of this season
are so many and varied that it would be
hard to enumerate them all.
A COSTUMED DONKEY PARTY.
But among others the old - fashioned
"donkey party" has been revived, and a
new whim is to dress the guests as veg
etables; all the green and colored things
beloved by his ass-shlp.
The "party" itself is, as everybody
knows, merely the pinning of a tailless
donkey drawing against the wall, and
then trying, blindfolded, to fasten the dis
membered portion where nature has in
tended it to grow.
WHAT TO WEAR.
The costumes may be of lampshade pa
per or common calico.
Either medium, if cleverly handled, will
PIERRETTE AND
turn out an effective and inexpensive veg
etable, and a carrot and a lettuce may be
made in this way:
A RED VEGETABLE.
For a carrot, choose calico of a yellowish-red
shade for the skirt, and the same
material In the green of the tops for the
bodice. Have first a kitted skirt of the
carrot tint, and then over it a peplum
drapery of long pieces shaped as much
as possible like the legume.
The low. green bodice has no sleeves,
and is best in a polpted shape, with green
ribbons finished with high upstanding
bows forming the shoulder-straps.
A green fillet and tufted side bow orna
ments the hair. The long gloves are of
deep blue suede.
From the waist up, as can be seen,
crows, then, only the green tops, and to
ep all the lower part of the costume in
rarmony with the Idea, the slippers and
blockings are in the carrot tint.
A SALAD TOILET.
The tough lampshade paper the un
crlnkled sort Affords the best possibili
ties for the lettuce, which, however, must
beg-in with a foundation of cotton. Make
a low, round bodice and short, scant Eklrt
of this, over which the paper skirt, in
leaf sections, shading all the way from
white to deepest green, is next to be
glued. Model delicately the edges of the
leaves with a dull knife, and put them on
the foundation as if the vegetable were
growing downward.
Drape pale-green paper over the bod
ice in any way liked, but have the short
sleeves two distinct lettuces with white
Iff . "Mimh
HEAD OF LETTUCE.
centers. For the head, either an Inverted
lettuce as a hat, or else a green satin
fillet and side pom-pom; pale green shoes
and stockings. And at last, under the
skirt, which should come but little above
the ankles, a full flouncing lace petticoat
will further simulate, in dancing, the
white crinkled heart of the vegetable the
young woman represents.
FLOWER DRESSES.
Along with the edibles, flowers are also
admissible at a donkey party. All are"
possible in the Jampshade paper, either
crinkled or plain, and violets, lilies, nar
cissuses, roses, popples, peonies, daisies and
sunflowers may be mentioned as the most
easily accomplished. When worn by a
right sweet she for, as even Ovid tells us,
"No complexion all can bear" these
dainty costumes are revelations of what
can be done with little money.
SWEET, BUT COSTLY.
Where expense is not a thing to be con
sidered, a mushroom could be created
that might rouse even the donkey on the
wall to animation. Peau e sole in a
rich white, tinging almost to brown, and
pale pink chiffon are the best materials
for this.
First, there is a kilted skirt of the chif
fon, and over It a panler drapery of the
peau de sole rounded well out over each
hip to counterfeit muchrooms.
The round bodice of peau de sole Is held
over the shoulders by straps; some inches
below, on the arm, hang precariously the
short, plump mushroom sleeves.
The slippers and stockings which are
to imitate the stem of the plant, are in the
brown whllte of the silk. The suede gloves
must be the same shade, and a mush
room hat with a pink shirred chiffon
lining, can be made by gathering at the
edge a large circle of the peau de sole over
a wire ring that has first been covered
loosely with white cotton batting.
ROMANTIC DRESS.
If the costumed entertainment is in the
THE CARROT.
nature of a rather ceremonious dance,
any of the characters of history, romance
and legend may serve as models with
which to gown it. Tall, slim, lily blondes
may be Elalnes and Enlds, splendid brun
ettes Gulneveres, and any well illustrated
Tennyson will supply becoming and ro
mantic dtelgns for the toilets. Patch-and-powder
ladies need red heels and rich
brocades. Dainty Dolly Vardens. on the
contrary, are sweetest in only gay flow
ered calicoes, and a goddess of the most
heavenly sort can be resolved from sim
ple cheese-cloth.
If you are a lover of the Corsican hero
you might take a hint from the Na
poleonic resurrection and be a Josephine,
a Hortense or a Marie Louise. Again, If
you have only frivolous French tastes,
and are of that sweet, slim, white type
that is most adorable when audacious,
you might copy Clairin's white Pierrette.
THE PIERRETTE XRESS.
This charming costume, which is a sort
of sister to the Pierrots, is made of white
satin and ribbon and thin, white lace.
The short, gorod skirt is first trimmed
with flounces of lace up to the waist;
over each of these falls a second one of
ef C2. ZyeccviiZ-
the satin in deep points. The bodice of
satin is pointed at the waist, and the
sleeves which fit tight to the elbow are
there finished with a heavy fall of the
lace. A bertha of this trims the .low
round neck, and falls in ends mingled
with long loops of the ribbon over the
shoulders. Two other bows with flouting
ends tie about the sleeves above the lace
flounces; the long, white Directoire cane
which is carried in the right hand is also
ornamented with a large bow. Add to all
this a full ruche of lace that is worn
snugly about the bare throat, a pointed
clojvn's cap of white felt, suede gloves,
silK stockings and square-toed shoes with
lace pomponettes.
And then, as you .stand the thing of
beauty whose influence Keats tells us is
eternaL thank heaven for your primal
loveliness. And don't forget the painter
who has so dressed it to perfection.
NINA FITCH.
WATERING HOUSEPLANTS.
Probably more than one-half of the
failures with window gardening arise
from mistakes in watering. In theory,
watering Is a simple operation. All that
we are supposed to do is to give to our
pottted plants the requisite moisture for
their nee'ds. In lieu of the rains and dews
they enjoy out of doors, and are deprived
of. In practice, however, this "requisite"
amount calls for a good deal of judgment.
Aside from certain elements absorbed
from the air, all plants are fed and their
growth provided for by various chemical
substances found in the soil, and appro
priated by the plant's tissues. These
substances must be first dissolved and
made diffusible by moisture, ere they can
be carried up in form of sap. The water
not only conveys this food, but Is neces
sary in itself to fill out the tissues, and
to give necessary fluidity to the sap.
Too little moisture means a shrinkage
and hardening of plant fiber, and a cut
ting off of nutrition, and the plant dies of
water starvation. Too much water means
a continuous flooding of the soil, that
drives out the air in the soil with Its
life-giving oxygen, and produces a sodden,
sour state of the earth that produces in
its turn chemical changes that are poison
ous to the tender feeding roots of plants,
and the plant dies of water dyspepsia.
The true secret of successful watering
can be summed up In this rule of 20 words.
Whenever plants are thirsty, give water
to reach the bottom of the pot, then
wait until they are thirsty again. A drop
of water to a thirsty plan is a tantallza
tlon, but to a plant already standing in
moist earth, an added flood Is an aggra
vation, quite enough to send most plants
into a fit of sulks, for plants can be sulky
and contrary quite as well as humans.
If water Is needed at all, the whole plant
craves it, and not the top roots alone.
To facilitate the water reaching the bot
tom of the pot at each watering, nearly
an inch of space (more if the pot be a
large one), should be left between the
top of the soil and the rim of the pot;
otherwise, the water will run off the top
before enough moisture has been soaked
in to reach the lower part of the pot.
Do not be afraid of using plenty of water.
Water that is promptly absorbed or that
drains readily off, will hurt no growing
plant. It is the stagnant water and
soured soil that Injure plants, to avoid
which, plants once watered should have
no more given them until that is ab
sorbed, and the soil commences to get
dry, when the same liberal watering
should be repeated.
There is no inflexible rule as to haw
often to water. In very cold weather
plants need much less water than at any
other time, and in a warm room pots
dry out much faster than in one kept at
a moderate temperature, and, lastly,
some plants require and some absorb
water faster than others. The most
senseless floral rule on earth is to water
every plant In the window every morning,
whether they need it or not, as though
they were run by hydraulic clockwork.
The next most senseless rule Is to give a
taste of water and no more to a plant,
aa though what Is food to the upper
roots would be poison to the lower ones.
The sensible rule Is to water plants when
they want water, whether it be one pot
or 20 that demand it, and give enough
to satisfy them. LORA S. LaMANCE.
NEW FANCY WORK.
Novel Effects in Needlework
and
Canvns Tracings.
The only real novelty in needlework that
the season has shown so far is In part a
revival.
Tapestry work in old-fashioned cross
stitch done on canvas was seen in some
few instances last year, but hot until
this present autumn has the work been
done upon fine satins and moire stripes.
In this entirely fresh application the
novelty lies. The method itself is old. but
the effect Is entirely new, and the work
bids fair to become Immensely -popular.
The very handsomest completed piece
of work yet seen is a large sofa pillow of
dull old blue. The material is heavy-striped
moire, combined with satin, and on these
latter stripes the embroidery is done.
The pattern is a slightly raised fleur de
lis. It is worked in all hued browns, and
blending lines with lights of tender yel
low. As It now stands the silk looks Ilk
seme old and rare brocade, and the colors
are a very delight. The perfect success
has been obtained through the use of ex
actly the best colors. One element of
crudity would have spoiled the whole.
The woman whose pride the cushion is.
is an artist: instinctively she chooses the
tones that do the best work. Unless oth
ers who will follow in her wake are
equally gifted, they have need to pause
and to gain advice. The crude sample
like work of a generation or two ago will
not be tolerated now. The tapestry Is like
It only In the method by which It is done.
The stitch itself any child can learn. The
real effort lies In combining tones. Many
of the dealers In needlework designs have
bits of work started and prepared. The
canvas is basted over the silk, the figure
is complete to serve as a model and the
necessary wools and silks for completion
accompany each piece. Given such an
outfit and such a start, there is no espe
cial skill required to finish what is already
begun; care and neatness will accomplish
all that remains, but such servile follow
ing of a fixed plan can well become really
interesting, and the more ambitious work
ers prefer to select their own designs and
to blend the different colors themselves.
Once the work is done, the threads of
the canvas are drawn out and the em
broidery rests directly upon the silk. Cer
tainly the effect is unique, and when well
done is charming. Pillows, cushions and
the like are the objects used for the most
part, but there are indications of some
larger pieces of work. One excessively
clever woman has begun a set of hang
ings, and if they at all fulfill their prom
ise, they will be simply gorgeous when all
the work is done. The material is heavy
furniture satin of a yellow brown tone
On It Is to be a border top and bottom
worked with deep rich ends, black and oc
casional bits of yellow. The design is a
purely conventional one, as are many of
the best In use. and It Is carried out in
wools for the most part, silk being chosen
for the yellow alone, which serves as a
high light and is seen in bits only.
CLARE BUNCE.
o
THE FRENCH FIGURE.
American Women Copying; the Cnlve
KiKnre and tlie Rccnmicr Line.
A captious critic said of Calve last win
ter that he could see nothing admirable
about her. unless It was the long line of
her bust. Immediately. American beau
ties began to adopt something else be
longing to the great singer, beside cigar
ettes and a Spanish comb. They tried
on corsets whose fullness In. or lack of,
bust, lent to the figure that graceful long
line from the two tiny muscles in the
front of the throat to the point of the
bosom.
French women have long known that
this situation of the bust makes an ex
quisite contour of figure. If it was not
natural, they acquired it. and the result
made the French figure with its broad
shoulders, low. small bust and long,
slender waist the ideal one for the civil
ized world.
But it was only a copy from Greek art
which Mme. Reoamier brought Into vogue
during the empire. No Venus there had a
pigeon breast, nor banded her bosom up
to the cellar bone as the American wo-
man too frequently does. The longer
the slope, so much more perfect the curve,
granting always that the incline allows
of another curve to the line of waist.
Even French centuriateurs did not suf
ficiently Impress the American mind with
this Idea, until the fashionable women
across the channel adopted It. Then Eng
lish corsets were fashioned to suit the
need. The bones were either cut suf
ficiently low for the bust to fall to the
correct" line, or the fullness across the
chest allowed the same position. Take
Mrs. Kendall or Mrs. Langtry. for in
stance, the two English figures with
which, perhaps, we are most familiar;
there one can note that superb slope
along the chest; and, again, in our own
Emma Eames-Story. whose contour is
well-night perfect, the line Is almost phe
nomenal from chin to bust. Contrast this
with Lillian Russell, whose corset binds
the fullness over the dress line, no mat
ter how slightly decollete is the bodice.
I went into a corset shop on Fifth ave
nue yesterday to find if New York wo
men were adhering to the start they
made last spring. "Yes." said the shop
keeper, "it is astonishing how the sale
of Empire corsets is Increasing. Each of
our customers now adds to an order, 'be
sure you get the bust low enough, and.
in fact, we only advise the high-bosomed
article for very slim women. But, even
they," she concluded, "prefer to have the
corset low and padding put lower down.
"For evening wear, the short corsets
are worn exclusively. They are especial
ly favorable for women inclined to over
plumpness, for then a decollete gown dis
closes only the lines of throat and chest."
These corsets, I found, are not the
genuine Empire, for they run below the
waist to a point back and front: "much
more comfortable," the speaker told me,
"than those cut off at the waist line, for
they were apt to be trying to stout wo
men. Then the line over the hips Is better
when regulated by whalebones."
Plain white corsets seem to have
been shelved with white stockings.
Black satin is correct for ordi
nary wear, but every variety of
stays are sold made up In fancy bro
cades, and these are the modish thing just
now, no matter If one's gown be as "plain
as a pipe-stem." For full dress, the
ground is white satin, gayly flowered or
wreathed in Empire designs, this being
considered more elegant than the blues
and pinks of former years.
A smart woman wno is careful about
her clothes Is quite as fastidious concern
ing the making of her corsets as the
build of her hat or boots, but the dress-
makers think it even more impera
tive, claming that gowns preserve their
fit longer and wear better If corset and
bodice are built together on the figure;
a good corset, they say, should last as
long as a gown. ,
For stout well, fat tvomen the corset
Jers have devised a new comfort. Instead
of the irritating whalebone ends that ren
ders sitting down a torture. ' A "wide rub
ber band outlines the lower edge of the
stay. This retains the shape, but yields
with every movement.
For women whose fullness reveals
through the bodice, the exact line where
the corset ends, a pointed bust has been
fashioned. This effects its end in an ad
mirable manner.
It costs from $7 to $23 to have a corset
made, but such stays last for years, al
ways retaining their shape, therefore, It
is the best economy In the end.
HARRYDELE HALLMARK.
VISITING CARDS.
Etiquette of Those Importnnte Little
Pieces of Pasteboard.
"What do you do?"
This pathetically helpless query is still
on its rounds. It especially harasses the
members of that society that is habitually
spelled in small letters, but a good many
of the upper ten have the trial with the
barbed-wire fence of etiquette.
Take the single matter of visiting cards.
Simplest thing in the world, but their use
is abused by folks who ought to know
belter, and who wish they did.
The stationer keeps up with the latest
thing in bristol board, engraving script;
and dimensions. Go to a first-class shop
and be sure to have the prefix Mr., Mrs.
and Miss placed before your name.
The ramifications of card etiquette are
monstrously long and many, considering
how short life is. But there are a few
rules which, if learned by heart, will go
a long way toward making you seem
to know more perhaps than you really do,
and this Is justifiable. If it doesn't puff
you up with undue pride.
Just remember, to start in with, that
your visiting card stands for you. There
fore, treat It with respect, and on general
principles don't let it do anything that
you yourself wouldn't do. Therefore, do
not write "congratulations" or "condol
ence" on your card and send or leave it
anywhere. If your card left formally
does not mean enough it stands for you
and all you would have said in a call had
you seen the person for whom the card is
intended, remember then write a civil
note.
A great many married people have
found out that It Is thought to be polite
to send their visiting cards to people whose
wedding is announced, but many do not
yet know that these cards mean the same
thing as a call. Therefore, Mrs. Brown
must put into its neat little card envelope
one of her cards, and two of Mr. Brown's.
It is not au fait for her to call upon Mr.
Jones, but It is polite for Mr. Brown to
call upon both Mr. and Mrs. Jones, hence
he sends two cards. If Mrs. B. goes In
person to call upon Mrs. J. and Mr. B.
cannot go, then she takes for him and
leaves as she Is departing from Mrs. J's.,
two of her husband's cards.
If the hostess Is In the reception-room.
It Is unnecessary to leave cards, unless
one wishes to report a new address.
Only an Intimate friend, in making a
call, should send up his name by word
of mouth by a servant. Servants make
bad work of names that are unfamiliar
to them. Moreover, supposing you are
Mr. Smith, perhaps the hostess knows
several Smiths, and wishes to know
whether you are Smith the book agent,
or Smith the society man whom she rather
hopes is thinking twice about her daugh
ter. Your card will tell the story.
Theoretically, If you make a call and
find the people not at home, you should
leave a card of Mrs. B. and a card of Miss
B.. If she be out in society, for every
ladv In the Jones family Including any
lady who may be visiting them, also one
of Mr. B. for each one of the ladles, and
an extra one for Mr. Jones. But where
the family Includes several grown-up
daughters and an aunt or two, and several
sons who are in society, the multiplication
table is only a mild comparison to the
arithmetical problem that ensues.
The long and short of it Is that even In
the best of society in this country, the
mother and daughter leave a card apiece
and two of the husband and father's (one
for the ladles and one for the man of the
family). , ,
But if Mrs. Jones has a visitor and the
Browns are paying a party call for some
thing given in honor of the guest, they
must each leave a card for the visitor and
also one of Mr. B's. for her.
The custom of leaving your card in the
TO ATTAIN THAT LONG, LOVELY LINE.
hall after a reception still obtains in good
society over here. It helps the
hostess to remember whether you were a
factor la the crush or not, and costs you
a pretty penny for cards in the course of
the season, for it is necessary, according
to usage to leave a card for each lady
whose name appeared on the Invitation.
If Mrs. Jones gives an "at home" for Miss
Jones, or Miss or Mrs. Anybody, you must
leave two cards, and each of your daugh
ters who Is Invited goes and leaves two
cards or stays away and sends them by
you; and then your husband and each of
your sons who is in society leaves two
cards or sends them by you. If none of
you can go, you all send cards on the day.
of the reception.
If it were an R. S. V. P. affair, then
you replied at once on note paper, and
in the same style of wording in which
the Invitation was conveyed. If you de
clined, that's all you have to do except
make a party call afterward. If you ac
cepted then leave cards at the time, and
call afterward.
Regret or accept to the people who is
sues the Invitations always. If you know
Millie Jones, and her father and mother
invite you to her wedding, reply to them,
not to Millie, though you may write as
many reams as you please to her person
ally. But when you send your wedding
present send that with your visiting card
and one of your husband's to Millie.
"The Innocence of the intention abates
nothing of the mischief of the example."
It Is not enough to mean to be civil.
You must show that you are. B. A. W.
WOMAN GYMNASTS.
Flve Leading; Professors in Physical
Culture for Ladles in America.
The school or college nowadays that
falls to provide a department for physi
cal training is far behind the times,
where a dozen or less years ago we had
a . few mild gymnastics done to slow
Anisic, we now. have almost a scientific
system for physical development, and
the vigorous body is considered of as
great importance as the "sound mind."
Of necessity there have arisen teachers
In the land, who are learned in every art
of physical culture known to the classi
cal Greeks and Romans, as well as a
great many of which they never dreamed.
The Instructor or director of the gym
nasium is more often than not a woman,
and a woman, moreover, who writes "M.
D." after her name. In addition to be
ing able to diagnose every ill to which
her pupil is entitled by heredity or which
she may have developed on her own ac
count, the director must be able to in
struct a girl in the art of vaulting, turn
ing back somersaults, militay drill, swim
ming,' rowing, sprinting, and even foot
ball. Verily, the instructors in our gym
nasiums must be all-round athletes in
every sense of the word.
REPRESENTATIVE PROFESSORS.
Take for example, as representatives,
the five young women whose pictures ac
company this sketch.
"Miss Ellen Le Garde is perhaps the
best known, as she is not only a very
successful instructor in physical culture,
but a writer and Inventor as well. She
has visited every gymnasium of impor-
'Ell-tNLrGAKOt- A"utErgrr05T?B.tfD-
wmmm- iiiiii i !! i J -p i i i i t ' ' ' ii i
PHYSICAL CULTURE PROFESSORS.
tance in Europe, learning something, so
she says, from each one. The only piece
of apparatus of the 300 or more In use
In gymnasiums, invented by a woman,
is the musical dumbbells, which we owe
to Miss Le Garde.
She has been honored, and the only
woman thus honored by the North Amer
ican Turner bund, having been their
accredited representative at various con
ventions and congresses, where the sub
ject of physical training was under dis
cussion, notably the one at Chicago dur
ing the world's fair.
Miss Le Garde is at the head of the
physical training department of the Prov
idence, R, I., public schools, and prob
ably Instructs no less than 25,000 children
during the year. Miss Le Garde is very
fine looking; she is tall, has bright eyes
(that nothing escapes), very dark, brown
hair, and rather a round, full face. Her
expression is animated; she Is very enthu
siastic and ambitious and a brilliant con
versationalist. WHY WELLE3LEY WINS.
Wollesley college considers that the sys
tem of physical training adopted there
as ideal, and that it has a finer collection
of statistics recording physical condition
than any woman's institution. This col
lege is also leading in the evolution of or
ganized outdoor sports and pastimes not
athletics as a part and outgrowth of the
department of physical training. Miss
Lucile Eaton Hill is at the head of this
department, and with the assistance of
the physical examiner, manages the class
crews, and starts all the games. She bas
organized bicycle, basket-ball, tennis, golf
and other clubs. Each student is required
to do a" certain amount of regular, sys
tematic work In the sport undertaken, and
she cannot change from one kind to an
other, one object of this being to develop
PROFESSOR KATE ANDERSON.
the quality of persistency, which Is cer
tain to help the girl mentally.
VIGOROUS ST. LOUIS GIRLS.
One of the best known and most pop
ular teachers of physical culture in St.
Louis is Mrs". Mary H. Ludlum. For
about half a dozen years she has been
teaching in the high and normal schools,
and in connection with this work gives
Instruction in the gymnasium of St. Vin
cent's seminary. Until within a year she
has taught the Delsarte system, which
lately she has changed for the one em
ployed by the Turner bund, which has
its headquarters at St. Louis.
AT THE CHICAGO UNIVERSITY.
Miss Kate S. Anderson, sister of Dr.
Anderson, of Yale college. Is in charge
of the gymnasium "at the Chicago uni
versity, which, by the way, was found
ed by Mr. John D. Rockefeller.
Miss Anderson spent last summer In
Scandinavia,, and while in Stockholm
she received private instruction in med
ical gymnastics, under the direction of
Professor Tongren, who is at the head of
the Royal Institute of Gymnastics In
Stockholm. Miss Anderson is bending all
her studies In the medical direction and
hopes soon. to receive the degree of M.
D.; her object is to make a specialty of
medical gymnastics. Upon Miss Ander
son's return from abroad last autumn,
she found awaiting her, the appointment
to the position at the Chicago university.
A course In gymnastics Is required of all
undergraduate students, and the privi
leges of the gymnasium are offered to all
graduate students.
STALWART COLLEGIANS.
Alice Bertha Foster, M. D., late of the
Chicago university, is now instructor
and director of physical culture at Bryn
Mawr college. The accompanying illus
tration shows her In cap and gown, which
is required at Bryn Mawr of the seniors
and members of the faculty. At the Chi
cago university, the witching cap and
gown is also worn by students, and upon
all official occasions, by the faculty. Miss
Foster or "Dr. Foster," studied at the
medical school of the University of Buf
falo, and graduated with honors for her
thesis on spinal curvature.
There are about 300 students at Bryn
Mawr, and they all go In for physical
culture. The Sargent anthropometric
charts have been Introduced and at the
first meeting in the autumn of the fresh
man class, each member is given her own
"curve" to study, with prescription cards
to follow. The students take the Swedish
drill at first; this is followed by the more
general range. By the generosity of Miss
Garrett, of Baltimore, and the popular
subscription of the students, a swimming
pool was built last summer at the college,
and now every girl is being initiated into
the gentle art of swimming in connection
with her other athletic exercises.
DIANA CROSSWAYS.
Sarali Bernhardt on Dok.i.
In a recent interview Sarah Bernhard:
gave expression to her pet theories re-
Highest of all in Leavening Power.
ABSOUJTEiy P&IRS
regarding animals In these words: "They;
tell me that in England your old maids.'
when they no longer have the chance of
being loved, turn all their affections
toward animals. I like them for it. To
my mind, a noble dog, for example, ia
much more worthy of love than a man.
I firmly believe that It Is given to some
few human beings to understand the feel
ings and Instincts of animals, and I am as
firmly convinced that I am one of them.
If I am In a-crowd of people and a dog or
cat is near it will come naturally to me
without my making the slightest move
ment. Why this is I cannot cay, unless
I admit that there is developed in me an
other sense, whose existence animals at
once perceive: But that Is the fact; If
you don't admit my explanation, you
must deny the existence of what is as ev
ident as the light of the sun."
PARISIAN BONBONS.
The Trade on New Year's Eve Hovr
One Present Serves Many People.
New Year's day Is for the Parisian con
fectioners a golden mine whose rich vein
it takes several days to exhaust. The ele
gant young ladles who serve in brilliant
shops, sparkling with a thousand Hght3
reflected by mirrors and crystal pendants
without number, though so obliging and
active, are scarcely equal to the task:
of pouring out for the impatient crowd
the floods of sweetmeats for which they,
thirst; floods more abundant than those,
which Issued at the touch of the .fairy's
wand from the diamond rocks of
the Fortunate Isle! Statistical science,
which Is not a fairy, assures us that no
more than 3,000,000 or 4.000,000 francs worth
of bonbons and confectionery are sold In
Paris on New Year's day. But the fact
is that bonbons multiply In the hands of
the thrifty French bourgeois to so won
derful an extent that If the value of all
the sweetmeats that people give each oth
er could be calculated In money. It would
certainly amount to at least 23,000,000
francs.
The solution of this mystery Is exceed
ingly simple: Yougive Mme. X a bag of
marrons glaces (preserved or crystallzed
chestnuts) tied with a pretty red ribbon.
Mme. X. thanks you with a smile, opens
the bag, praises tbe fruit with all the
tact of a Parisian woman, graciously
offers you one of your own chestnuts
and eats one herself. She finds It ex
quisite, of course; but as soon a3 you
have taken your departure she carefully
ties up the bag and sends It with all the
compliments of the season to the chil
dren of Mme. B., her particular friend.
Mme. B., In greSt alarm lest the
bonbons, pastilles, dragees, pralines and
preserved fruits, which fall like manna
amongst the children, should make them
sick, does not fail to offer the bag to
pretty Mile. Sophie, daughter of
her old fqend, Colonel Tonnerre. Mile.
Sophie is godmother to the little daughter
of an old sergeant, who has served many
years under her father, but now a dealer
In guns, pistols, fencing foils and fishing
tackle, in a street near by.
"What a capital thing!" exclaims the
old warrior, who hastens to do homage
with the bag to his neighbor, the haber
dasher, an amiable and plum widow of
40 and upward. The widow, who has
her share of self-respect, thinks she ought
not to owe her neighbors anything, and
with infinite ingenuity she sets to work,
making with her own hands another bag,
as white as snow, puts some marron3
glaces inside it, substitutes a blue rib
bon for the red one, and sends it back to
Mademoiselle Sophie, who, it is to be
hoped, will this time keep them for her
self, unless, indeed, she be compelled to
arrange them in a pyramid upon a dessert
plate for the gcod of the family. Even
in this case, I should not like to make
oath that the family will eat them. There
are in Paris bags of bonbons that It would
be as fatiguing to follow during the first
week of the New Year as the trace of
the footsteps of the Wandering Jew.
All the necessary calculations being made,
the bag of bonbons, whose cost price was
6 francs, and whose history has just
been related, has served the place of
six bags; total, 36 francs.
Nevertheless, it is always wise to In
vestigate thoroughly the contents of the
bag down to the verybottom before part
ing with it, in order to avoid the dangers
of a certain illicit correspondence, which
is frequently exchanged, through such
medium, during that season of the year,
to prevent billet doux from falling into
the hands of the wrong party, thus cre
ating the most extraordinary confusion,
or the most unpleasant, absurd and some
times distressing situations. But, as a
rule the Parisian bourgeoise, male or fe
male, is very cunning, and fully up to
all these possible incidents of the gay
Parisian life.
It often happens that bonbons are worth,
less a gieat deal less than the cover
which contains them. It is almost im
possible to imagine how much Invention,
art and labor are expended on all sorts
of bags, boxes, cornets and baskets of
bonbons. Those Intended for rich pres
ents sometimes cost as high as 1000 francs,
and covered with delicate paintings, like
the most beautiful fans, or they are
carved, damasked, inlaid, impearled and
gilted with the most delicate taste. Oth
ers again, more modest than these, im
itate every natural form that the mind
can imagine. The showrooms and the
factories of the Parisian confectioners
may thus be said to exhibit in miniature
all the products of human industry, and
in that line the Parisian industry far ex
cels the similar industries of all the other
great cities of the world.
"IVIiy We Sneeze. ""
London Dally News.
Dr. Scanea Splcer, reading a paper the
other day before the Chemists' Assist
ants' Association, on "Sneezing," told his
hearers that tho act of sneezing has al
ways been regarded as supernatural, and
by many races was held In reverence.
Hence arose the custom, not even now
altogether obsolete, of making some re
mark directly after sneezing. Sneezing
was regarded as a sign of impending
death during the plague of Athens. Many
classical writers make especial reference
to sneezing, and some supposed that, dur
ing the sneezing, devils were expelled.
Sneezing itself is a reflex nervous ac
tion, and is brought about by mechanical
irritation of the ends of the nerve fibers
which occur In the tissues of the nose.
When this irritation occurs, whether it
be due to a foreign body or a change of
temperature affecting the tissues of the
nose, a nerve impulse is transmitted
to the brain, and certain nerve centers in
the medulla oblongata are affected; this
results in certain Impulses being trans
mitted along the nerves to the muscles
controlling respiration. By this means
the egress of air during respiration is
delayed, and the various exits are closed.
When the pressure, however, reaches a
limit, the exits are forced open, a power
ful blast of air is expelled, and the pa
tient sneezes.
Wins Hack the Allowance.
The bitter cry of the son of a man,
famous In parliament and as a card
player has been lately heard at Oxford.
"My father allows me three hundred a
year," grumbles an undergraduate, gaily,
"but he wins it nearly all back from me
at poker." Impoverished fathers, in these
difficult days, may be grateful for the
hint. If sons must, as a matter of course,
lose sovereigns to somebody, it seems
only a fair interpretation of filial duty to
let fathers have the first chance of the
winnings. Pall Mall Budget.
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