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June 28, 2000
_____________ F0CUS ____________ (Tlir JJnrtlattò (nborrurr
Summer Fun
Focus
by
A
S U P P L E M E N T
OF
irije
^ o rtla n b
(©bserber
Editor in Chief,
Publisher
Charles H. Washington
Editor
Larry J. Jackson, Sr.
Copy Editor
Joy Ramos
Manager
Gary Ann Taylor
Creative Director
Shawn Strahan
4747 NE M artin Luther
King, Jr., Blvd.
Portland, O R 97211
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suhMription»'portlandobse’rviT.com
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become the sole property of
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for
T h e A -B -C ’s o f Q -U-E
F elicia L, S lider
T he P ortland O bserver
It’s that time of tire year again. IfMay was recognized
as National Barbecue Month, then you should have
had plenty of time and preparation for this 4th of
July to bring your culinary skills to a table near you.
And yes... Americans love to bar-b-cue. According
to the Barbecue Industry Association (BIA), in an
annual survey, we barbecued more than three billion
times in 1999.
Whether you put up tents for an old-fashioned
outdoor barbecue buffet to grill it, smoke it or toss
it in the oven, people from east to west, north to
south, and all shades in between love to blaze it up.
You can spell it barbecue or BBQ, but no matter
how it rolls off your tongue, not many things express
the same meaning of summer as backyard grills and
smokers permeating the neighborhood air all in the
name of BBQ.
That’s a lot ofblack pepper, vinegar, tomato sauce,
salt, molasses and many other ingredients.
Americans love it because it’s kind of like some of
the ways that we want to live: casual and easy. We also think of it in the
summer time because of the fact that, as we get foot loose and fancy free
in the heated summer months, this American cuisine is great for the
outdoors.
In beginning The Portland Observer Restaurant Guide, it is at this time of
the year that we would like to recognize Portland area businesses, old and
new all in the name of barbecue.
Through our interviews and word on the streets, on behalf of the Portland
patrons
that
frequent
these
familiar as well as
up and com ing
re s ta u ra n ts ,
recognize
the
fo llo w in g
re s ta u ra n ts ,
ow ners, chefs,
cooks and crew for
giving tang & bang
to their sauce and keeping their culinary style wild.
But first, let’s get familiar with the characteristics and ingredients that
define barbecue styles from specific regions
What’s your flavor neighbor?
The history of barbecue sauce goes back to he 1600’s, the century that
marked the founding of America’s first colonies. Bob gamer, in his book
North Carolina Barbecue, says the art of slow-cooking game was taught
to the colonist by Native Americans, who may have learned it from people
in the Caribbean. During the early years of this country, BBQ’s were the
foundation o f many major political, social and religious events. The
original sauce used to tenderize and flavor barbecue meat was based on a
very simple recipe: Carolina style, with vinegar and a variety ofblack and
hot peppers. A lot of Americans think ofbarbecue as tomato-bases, but not
until the early 1800’s did people get over the misconception that tomatoes
were a poisonous vegetable. Nationally brands, such as Kraft, entered the
sauce picture in the mid-1900’s, having dominated ever since. But like
everything else, the field ofbarbecue sauce is always evolving.
According to Paul Kirk, author of Championship Barbecue Sauces, new
styles are emerging. These include Florida-style (based on lemon and
lime), Hawaiian (sweet and sour) and Califomia/Southwest (tomato and
salsa based). What of the future? The sauce industry has become so large,
and the lines of distinction among specific regional styles have become so
blurred, that the American Royal Barbecue Sauce Contest now defines the
categories by flavor instead of by region.
Carolina (Eastern): This is the original stuff according the BIA! Found
east of Raleigh, NC, it is made with vinegar, sale, black pepper, crushed
or ground cayenne, and other spices.. .and nothing else. This is very thin,
©bseruer
Restaurant Guide
acidic sauce that penetrates into the
meat
Carolina (Western): This is the same
basic recipe as Eastern Carolina, with
the addition of small amounts of
ketchup, molasses or Worcestershire
sauce, and perhaps some spices. It
has a vinegar-based flavor. It works
extremely well as a marinade on
chicken, shrimp, pork and beef.
Carolina (South): This region is
known for its unique yellow mustard-
style barbecue and is usually served
with a dish known as “barbecue hash.
Kentucky: Served with one of three
sauces: mild tomato-based, a unique
“black” sauce, or a peppery hot sauce,
the favored meat for this sauce is
usually lamb.
Memphis: This embraces all three of
the major ingredients: vinegar,
mustard and tomato.
Kansas City: Considered by many to
be the center of the BBQ universe, Kansas City even has its own Barbecue
Society. K.C.’s barbecue style is thick, with a tomato and sugar base. It
is the basis for many of the well-known national brands, including Kraft,
Heinz, Hunts, and K.C. Masterpiece.
Texas: Sauces range from thick, spice, tomato-bases to thin, hot-pepper-
bases to thick and dark sauces that have a south-of-the-border flair,
Texans use beefbrisket and ribs, with side dishes ofbeans and Texas roast.
The ABC’s of Q-U-E
In The Portland Observer Restaurant Guide: The ABC’s of Q-U-E, we
want to recognize each participating restaurant. We discovered that with
each listing, there were just as many different bar-b-cue sauces as well as
styles and method of cooking. So instead of categorizing each separately,
from our interviews, The Portland Observer gathered a little history of
spice & style from various restaurant owners and chefs here and a little
info o f tang and bang there, to satisfy the different taste buds out there.
•
Billy Reeds Restaurant & Bar
2401 NE MLK, Jr. Blvd.
For restaurant hours, info: 503/493-8127
A. Applewood gives excellent flavoring to meat (i.e. Baby Back Ribs)
(Please turn to page 4)
1999 The Portland Observer
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