PORTLAND/OBSERVER Jan. 7, 1971
Hemlines during the century
In the midst of yet another
dust-up over hem lengths, I t ’s
Interesting to look back over the
seventy years of this century
and see how the hemline has
wanderer! during a ll that tim e.
After a ll, this Is the firs t centu
ry In history when hem lengths
ever rose higher than the floor.
The rise began about 1915,
when the ankle was allowed to
slo w . After the firs t world war,
the rise continued slowly, to the
knee-covering length we're see
ing now. Then came the four-
years, 1926-1930, of the firs t
knee-baring length in history -
and what a scandal that wasl
The drop was a lot more sud
den than today’s, which has been
coming on for the last two
years. The 1930 drop was to
m id-calf, and by 1935 the stan
Chuck Hulingx, Physical Education in stru cto r at N o rth Branch dard length was between calf
\ M CA, teaches “ S IJ M N A S T IC S " every M onday, Wednesday and and ankle.
Friday morning. Here from left to right we find Shirley Schiller,
T h is length stayed In until
N ell Pearce and Thelm a Diggs going through the paces.
World War II fabric regulations
Graffiti makes comeback
The fashion handwriting on
the wall for next spring Is graf
f it i prints, either ready made or
d o -lt-yo u rsle f.
Several fabric manufacturers
have designed spring textiles
which accent the g ra ffiti look.
One is manufacturing a charcoal
gray cloth with Irre g u la r white
stripes resembling chalk llne6
running Irre g u la rly on a black
board, an Ideal pattern for Jean-
type slacks, Jackets, and pon
chos.
Another textile firm Is mak
ing fabric which resembles p r i
mary-school art paper printed
with childlike drawings of birds,
animals, stlckflgures and b r il
liant suns printed to look like
a child’s crayon sketchbook.
The fabric would look well In
swimwear, T -s h irts , o r body
shirts to be worn with Jeans. A
th ird manufacturer has a new
fabric tor spring peppered with
slogans which boost current
concerns like ecology, the peace
movement, and even "Down
With G ra ffiti."
Although these fabrics w ill be
widely available fo r the spring
Fun w ith
food
W hen Captain Cook discov
e r e d the Hawaiian Islands In
1778, he named them the Sand
wich Islands after his patron,
the E arl of Sandwich. The Earl
Is also famous for creating one
of Am erica’ s most popular eat
ing forms ... the sandwich.
FINGER FOOD
The E a rl, hating to Interrupt
a winning streak at the gaming
tables, ordered his food served
between two slices of bread so
his fingers wouldn’t lie soiled.
PUTTING PUNCH INTO SAND
WICHES
The Sandwich Islands were
renamed the Hawaiian Islands
and the two names suggest one
of the happiest food combina
tions since apple pie and Ice
cream...sandwiches and Hawai
ian Punch. This canned punch Is
a blend of many of the exotic
fru its of the Islands such as
passion fru it, papaya and guava.
For a quick lunch with a party
flavor, treat the children to fun-
to-eat sandwiches by cutting
French bread lengthwise and
piling It high with cold meats,
cheeses and lettuce and tomato.
For a fun-to-drlnk punch ac
companiment, serve the fa m il
ia r red punch with a scoop of
vanilla Ice cream on top. O r,
pour new "T aste of Pineapple"
f la v o r e d punch into freezer
trays and float the tasty yellow
Ice cubes In ta ll glasses of red
punch. For a Hawaiian Soda, put
vanilla Ice cream In a ta ll
glass, add 2 table spoons of the
frozen concentrate In any fla
vor, f ill the glass with sparkling
w a t e r and s tir . A ll of these
punch drinks are sure to turn
any lunch into a happy event.
For Experienced
Catering Service
Try Johnson’s
Catering Company.
Phone 282-4951
season, why not spend the
winter designing your own ap
proaches to the g ra ffltl-lo o k or
use what you have now. Men's
old white sh irts, which are
t u r n i n g yellow In the drawer
would be Ideal for d o -it-yo u r
self billboarding.
Several approaches are pos
sible, but laundry-m arker pens
and crayons work best, applied
to solid colors, of course. Doing
your own allows you to localize
the causes you advertise, some
thing the big manufacturers
can't do.
Crayons can also be used to
achieve
the
grade-school
sketchbook look, and after com
pleting the crayon design, the
garment can be dipped In liquid
dye. Since the dye Is water-
based, It w ill not affect the
color of the oil-based crayon
markings and the design w ill
rem ain.
Even after the crayon wax has
washed out of the fabric, the de
sign w ill remain because the
wax protects It from coloring by
the dye.
A g ra ffltl-o v e r-tle -d y e effect
Is also possible if the crayon
design Is drawn on the fabric
before It Is tied off for dyeing.
Painting dresses, old shirts,
and Jeans Is the new look In
g ra ffiti.
P olitical
or
non-polltlcal
views may be worn on the
sleeve.
Infants’
fashion high
By Florence de Santis
Despite a ll the propaganda for
fewer babies, they're s till being
born, and delighted fam ilies are
s t i l l buying them beautiful
christening dresses and quality
baby clothes.
That’s the experience of de
signers In the specialized field
of dressing babies and toddlers.
O ne such company, Haddad
Brothers, finds that the popula
tion under five years of age,
after falling by about three m il
lion during the last decade, w ill
ris e by about the same number
by 1980. B irths may be drop
ping, but m arriages are In
creasing, and so are Incomes.
While christening dresses re
main the traditional white gowns
and caps with beautiful em broi
deries, fashion now influences
Infant and toddler clothes. Had
dad carefully adapts such trends
as bell bottoms to toddler slack
suits and jump suits. They are
currently tryin g midis in minia
ture, which they feel w ill be ac
cepted as the trend grows In
adult wear.
S u ch hlgh-fashlon children's
wear goes to specialty stores
and better department stores,
whose customers are accus
tomed both to high fashion and
quality In their own clothes, buy
the same kind of thing for In
fants.
(A Fashion League Feature)
forcibly brought back the knee
baring length. It wasn't consid
ered a fashion, and the very year
after the war, Balenciaga cov
ered knees again. In 1947,
C h r i s t i a n Dior dropped the
length to Just above the ankle In
the most rom antic clothes of the
century. There they stayed until
the m ld -F iftle s, when the rise
started again, to m id-calf.
It hesitated there a ll through
the firs t of the Sixties, rose
again to Just below the knee.
About 1963, the firs t new above
knee length was launched, but
there was great resistance to It.
It seemingly triumphed about
1966, but as in the Twenties, Its
reign has been short and con
fined mostly to the young.
As in pevlous decades, the
present trend downward has
therefore only started. It has to
be worked out by the designers
of this era as It was by design
ers of the past through all its
variations.
(A Fashion League Feature)
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CHICKEN
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Phone 288-6431
PORTLAND
CLEANING
WORKS
NORTH & N.E. PORTLAND
ONE DAY SERVICE
KNIT BLOCKING
OUR SPECIALITY
M IN O R REPAIRS—N O CHARGE
PICK-UP & DELIVERY
2 Location, To Serve You
Store No. 1
STORE N O . 2
282-8361
3968 N. Williams
287-1900
3947 N. MISSISSIPPI
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N. Alexander, Proprietor
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call (503)777-2737
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