THE 3IORNIXG OREGONIAX, MONDAY, JANUARY 9. 1923 STYLE THIEVES HOB very well known, having been engaged in business there before he came to America. He found that it was prac to continue at least until De Valera's supporters meet. Outstanding In the dramatic close of the Dail's session was the fact that the agreement was ratified. The Sunday Times said Ireland to day to all Intents and purposes is a free state, with her destinies in her tically Impossible to place orders for razors, shears and other articles be cause the buyers from other countries OF had beaten the American buyers and had not only stripped the market of all visible supply, but had ordered six months In advance. He said that only his acquaintance In the region had enabled him to pro cure the stocks he went for, and that many other Americans in the buying field had been turned away empty handed and disappointed. The German manufacturers assert they can catch up with the demand in the course of a year and are taking orders subject to their ability to pro cure raw material. Getting such ma terial is the chief problem in the cut lery district. own hands and De Valera "presum ably has ceased to be president of a non-existent republic." By the terms of article 17 of the Famous Creators at Mercy Future of Nation Held Never ratified agreement, it continues, it is the duty of the leaders of the- ma jority to construct a provisional gov ernment, 'Of which no doubt Griffith Future Relations of France and England Discussed. of Model Imitators. More Obscure. and Collins will be the heads. Before a week, the newspaper con tlnued, a free Irish government will be at work and the strife of cen turies should be closed. PROTECTION IS DEMANDED COURSE LEFT IN DOUBT VIEWS SHOW DISPARITY RATIFICATION IS LAUDED IRISH ARE DIVIDED MORE Til EVER PREMIERS CONFER Oil ALLIANCE PLANS MODISTES Movement Started to Prosecute Pirates, Kven tn America, Who "Adapt" Designs. BY GRANT GORDON. fConvrlKht. by Th Oreg-onlan.) PARIS. Jan. 8. (Special Cable.) Although two ParUiian modistes have Just been found sullty ot sartorial plaKiari-sm and directed to pay uu.m ees of 115. U00. and the world-famous tityJe creators of the Rue de La Paix are rejoicing exceedingly, they know the war between artist and copyist js far from ended. They are meditat ing new tactics by which may be met the depredations of not only the 'adapters' of Paris, but also of New ,1'erk. A gown is a work of art who can deny that? It was recognized before the world as euch when the Jury of the autumn salon accepted along with Dada statuary and cublstic painting, an exhibit of fashionable models. If it is a work of art, the artist owns It as a painter owns his landscapes or a poet his poems, and he should be pro tected from those who would steal the fruit of his genius. Thus argued the attorney for Madeleine Vionnet in her suit against the two modistes who had counterfeited a gown of her creation. Drfenne Allrgrs Monopoly. The defense argued that resem blance is not proof of copying; that In each season all fashionable gowns have a certain similarity; that the big designers were conspiring to build a still greater monopoly lu restraint of art. M. Jacques worth, who certainly looked more like a distinguished artist than a dressmaker, was one of the principal witnesses. "Kach season," he said, "there steals over the Rue de la Paix a new atmos phere I cannot describe It , more definitely than that and all the de signers breathe it- Nevertheless, the creations of each are distinct, indivi dual, their own. I can tell you who designed a gown by the flare of it by the technique, if you please, as a man Judges a book or a. picture. "Built around the designers is a world of business, based on the traffic in stolen models. One of the big firms will spend 600, 000 francs (nor 'mally $120,000) to produce 400 models in a season. Of these. 60 at the most survive the other must be aban doned. Naturally, the copyists help themselves to the 50. Occasional Fine So Bother. "An occasional fine doesn't bother them. Sometimes, indeed, they con eider legal proceedings an asset. Re cently an actress went to a certain modiste and asked for an exclusive model. he was hesitant about the one shown her and the copyist ex claimed angrily. I was sued for that model. Look, here are the papers of the case. And what is more, I lost!'" Such, also was the testimony of Pal Poiret, perhaps the most fre quently copied designer in Paris, and of AL Som, who thought Mme. Vlon net's creations might far more Justly be called works of art than a good deal of the war statuary he saw scattered about the public parks and of many others. The big designers intend to unite tor protection. They will establish a central office an association for the protection of the indmstry with a legal staff to prosecute copyists, German. English and, especially, American copyists. They mean to mark each one of their models by a distinctive label, difficult If not im possible to counterfeit. Pauqln. for example, has decided to thumb-print his models. Having once made copy ing difficult and expensive, they mean to sell reproduction rights at so much the copy. American Imitations Flagrant. Admittedly. It -would be very diffi cult to stop foreign firms from copy , ing French models. After the trial, Jacques ' Worth said, in talking of New York competition, that in the larger shops of that city the signa tures of Worth, Panvin, Pauqln, Poiret and others, printed on canvas, are sold literally by the yard to be sewed Into "exclusive Paris models," made east of Fifth avenue. He could offer no effective scheme for stopping this, and Paul Poiret could only sug gest that foreign customers should pay the designer Just as the foreign publisher pays the author of a trans lated book. But concerted legal action might well hamper the activities of the style thieves in Paris. Their main Jrop Is the corruptible women em ployes the mldlnette who, for a price, will deliver the "papers" and who can be so discreet and so de mure that she may pass for years as a trusted employe before being caught. And when she Is caught the style pirate, by whom she is paid a great deal more than she gets from her honest labor, takes care of her until she again gets employment in one of the big creating houses. Thieves Mnat Work Fast. It Is a fast game. Styles change almost from month to month, so that it Is essential to steal the original as soon as it appears or before. Some designers have worked for weeks over a new model, only to find that on the very day they first showed it some pirate already had been charm ing clients with it for three days. When they have no one within the hop the pirates tslmply send a fash ionably dressed woman to purchase the desired model. The designers admit that against the clever woman, who sees a gown at a tea or a ball that pleases her and makes herself a copy, they cannot protect them salves! Against all small-scale pi rating It would be difficult to act. It is the wholesale international organ ized exploitation of the art of certain Individuals they are organizing against. "It is the nation's duty to protect us," chorus Worth and Toiret and Pauqln, and all the others, from their luxurious shops along the Hue de la Paix. CUTLERY SUPPLIES GONE J'rcnch and Knglish- Bayers Clean Up German Market. Information that French and Eng lish buyers of cutlery have bought up the output from German factories for nix months in advance was contained in a letter to the Portland Cutlery company from Paul Steinmetz, owner, who Is now in Europe on a buying ex pedition. Mr. Stelnmeti said he had gone di rect to Solingen, Germany, wher the biggest factories are, and where he is FATTY HEADY FOH TRIAL MANSLAUGHTER CASE WILL OPEN' THIS WEEK. 'It Surely Can't Be Worse Than Before," Is Comedian's Comment as He Reaches San Francisco. SAN FRANCISCO, Jan. 8. (Spe cial.) Roscoe ("Fatty") Arbuckle has arrived in San Francisco prepared to go to trial this week for the second time for manslaughter. His first comment on his case, as he stepped from the gangplank) of the steamer Yale was: It surely can't be any worse than It was before, and I am hopeful that It will be better this time." With him on the trip from lxs Angeles were his wife, Minta Durfee Arbuckle; the latter's sister. Miss Marie Durfee; Marion Kohn, producer of film comedies and the latter s sister-in-law, Mrs. Marie Barry. Mrs. Arbuckle brought with her a handsome beaded bag, costing 11000, and a diamond and sapphire brooch, both Christmas gifts from Arbuckle. A welcome was given them by friends on their arrival at the dock here and at the Plaza hotel, where they will stay during the trial. Immediately after their arrival Ar buckle went Into conference with At- ornev Gavin McNab. his chief coun sel. to arrange for the second trial of the comedian on a charge of man slaughter in connection with the death on September 9 of the film ac tress. Virginia Rappe. It has been definitely decided that the case will not be called tomorrow, as announced. According to the ex pectations of the court and counsel for both sides, it may go on Wednes day, 'But there is a possibility that it will be further continued. A change inv tactics has been de cided upon by District Attorney Mat thew Brady and his staff, according to Milton U'Ren. assistant district at torney, and the screen comedian will be brought to trial the second time on the grand Jury Indictment stand ing against him for manslaughter. The first trial was based on a police court holding for manslaughter. In consequence of this change of proceedure. Arbuckle will appear to morrow for arraignment before Su perior Judge Louderback and will en ter a formal plea of not guilty to the indictment. The decision to postpone the trial was arrived at during a conference late yesterday between Judge Louder back, representatives of the district attorney's office and defense counsel. SHOOTING SELF IS FATAL WILLIAM J. JOHNSTON DIES AT ST. VINCENT'S HOSPITAL. Man Who Attempted to Murder Wife Succumbs; Three Chil dren Iieft Fatherless. William J. Johnston, who shot him self In the head after shooting his wife four times, died shortly before 5 o'clock last night at St. Vincent's hospital. The body was removed to the morgue. An inquest probably will be held during the week. Johnston, who worked at the Pied mont car barns, sought to slay his wife In their little cottage in that district early last week. He then turned the weapon on himself. In flicting a wound In the forehead which fractured his skull. He had been lying unconscious at St. Vin cent's hospital since the shooting. Johnston was 37 years old. Three little children, one of whom witnessed the attempted murder and suicide, are left fatherless, with the mother lying critically injured at Good Sa maritan hospital from the four bullet wounds In her body. Attendants at the hospital yesterday said she showed some improvement and her recovery Is expected. The attempted slaying of Mrs. Johnston and suicide by her husband resulted from family troubles of ex tended duration. Johnston is said to have brooded greatly over fancied grievances. HOME OF T. IIYTIXG ROBBED WHILE FAMILY IS AWAY. For Second Time In Two Nights Store of M. Sax at Front and Jefferson Is Entered. Jewelry valued at $400 was stolen from the home of T. Hyting, 4805 Powell Valley road, by burglars dur ing the absence of the family Satur day night. The burglary was dis covered early yesterday and reported to the police. The Intruders "Jim mied" open a front window, after cutting away the wire screen. For the second time in two nights, blurglars broke Into the clothing store of M. Sax, Front and Jefferson streets, he complained to the police. Friday night the prowlers obtained a quantity of underclothing, and Sat urday night they completed their shopping tour by appropriating a suit of clohtes and overcoat, he said. The home of O. H. Schnerdtmann. 920 Water street, was entered by burglars some time Saturday and a large quantity of Jewelry was taken. The thieves likewise got a camera, a revolver and similar articles. They broke through a basement door. Oregon Prunes Sold. SALEM. Or.. Jan. 8. (Special.) All Petite prunes in the Willamette val ley held by the Oregon Growers' Co operative association have been sold through orders received during the past few days, it was announced today. The recent demand for Wil lamette valley prunes was due, offi cials of the association said, to the Increase in prices for the California product. Most of the prunes shipped by the Oregon Growers' association during the past week were consigned to foreign markets. They were han dled through eatsern brokers. Many Believe ' Treaty Opponents Plan to Keep Sinn Fein Alive While Supporters Line Up. (Continued From First Page.) republican principles, it is not doubt, ed that Mr. ae Valera would still command a majority in the Dall. Though it was admitted on all sides that the great majority of the Irish people favored accepting the treaty and giving the free state government a trial, there is technically no ma chinery whereby the Dail could for the present be replaced by an elec tion. There Is none of the . customary machinery for holding regular elec tions. By the treaty. Its ratification can only be effected, not by the Dall, but by a meeting of the members elected to the southern parliament. All Steps Postponed. Under the treaty It is the function of the British government to summon i ine raiirying body, .but all steps were I DOStT)Oned Until If hnnlri ha ,n from the division in the Dail whether It was worth while. It is assumed that the ratifying body will b sum moned Immediately but it is not known if the 67 opposing members will desire to attend. It is supposed that their complete repudiation of the treaty may lead to their absten tion, as a body. In that case it is possible that the treaty might be unanimously ratified by such members as meet; they would number 71 out of a membership of 130. The premier has promised that the British army would evacuate after ratification and It is expected that when the preliminaries have been settled the British soldiers will be wHhdrawn. Another outcome of the treaty will - be the release of all political prisoners. De Valera Makes Reply. Prior to the private meeting in the Mansion House, Mr. de Valera re ceived an Illuminated address voted him December 21 by a convention rep resenting 60,000 members of the Hi bernian Catholic benefit societies in Australasia. The presentation was made by Dr. O'Reilly, who said that the feeling in Australia when he left that country was altogether repub lican for Ireland. Mr. de Valera in reply said: "Let no man say that the Irish peo ple have self-determined themselves within the British empire as British subjects; The heart of the Irish peo ple Is as republican as ever. The won derful opportunity of securing a last ing peace between two great coun tries, one of which has been the mother country of Australia and Can ada, and, In a large part, of the United States, has been definitely lost once more by the triumph of British force over reason and right. The heart of Ireland Is absolutely for complete In dependence." More Fltkt Predicted. He eald he had worked hard to get help from every source to find a solu tion of the problem to reconcile the two peoples, consistent with the desire of the Irish people to maintain a dis tinct nationality and sovereign state-' hood. That had been turned down, he declared, and therefore the fight was to go on. The republic of Ireland." he de clared, "still exists. Its sovereign parliament still exists. The resolu tion recommending the approval of a certain treaty Is mot ratification of that treaty and Is not a loyal act. That will not be effected until the Irish people have dis-established the republic which they set up by their own will. As far as human brains and hearts can achieve it. the self determination of the Irish people will be forged and by the men and women of Ireland in this generation. They are not going to give up now." VALERA'S ACTION IN DOUBT Dublin Public's Bewilderment Is Shared by London Editors. LONDON, Jan. 8. (By the Associ ated Press.) Although a majority of the Sunday papers announced Mr. de Valera's resignation, it was evident from the text of his speech that he merely said it would be his duty to resign and the. Dublin publics be wilderment respecting De Valera's in tentions is shared in the London edi torial rooms. The confusion was considered likely &8tlafl III Wf ii mn J a-j "One of the Northwest's Great Banks" Ireland Said to Have Opened Way to History's Brightest Chapter. BATTLE CREEK, Mich., Jan. 8. Ireland opened the way for the most interesting and perhaps the brightest chapter of her history through rati fication by the Dail of the treaty. Sir Horace Plunkett, Irish conservative leader, declared in a statement here last night. The action, he said, was in accord ance with the wishes of a majority of the Irish people. The British terms, he declared, constituted a fair settlement, rejection of which would have been 'madness. UNITY DECLARED POSSIBLE Victory ot Mode-rates Welcomed by Roman Catholic Bishop. BELFAST. Jan. 8. (By the Associ ated PreBS.) "The victory of the moderates In the Dail offers a hopeful opportunity for securing a united Ire land if only Sir James Craig and his colleagues rise to the occasion." said the Most Rev. Joseph Macrory, Roman Catholic bishop of the diocese of Down and Connor, In a statement to the Associated Press today. "I am convinced that a short time will show the people of the north that it is better to join now on more favorable terms than they likely will get by waiting," he said. Military Holds Decision Final. DUBLIN, Jan. 8. (By the Associ ated Press.) Military authorities here evidently consider the vote for the peace treaty by the Dail as a final de cision on the Irish situation. Since the city hall was commandeered by the military the building has been sur rounded by (barbed-wire entangle ments. Today soldiers began clearing away the wire. Belfast Disorders Renewed. BELFAST, Jan. 8. There was a renewal tonight of the disorders when the military with machine guns were compelled to disperse rioters In Townsend street. There also were disturbances in Percy street In which a woman was wounded. One man was wounded last night. Irish Unity Seen as Blessing. BELFAST, Jan. 8. (By the Associ ated Press.) "What t- blessing it would be If there was union among the Irish people," said Cardinal Logue today. He said ratification was a necessity for the country and that all the people were for the treaty. British Envoys at Cannes Elated. CANNES, Jan. 8. News of the rati fication of the Irish peace treaty was received with the greatest, of satis faction by the British delegation to the allied supreme council. The ma jority was regarded as giving assur ance that the treaty will be carried out. Bundle Dancing Party Billed. A "bundle" dancing party Is to be the innovation offered by the Laurel hurst club to members and guests on January 26. Admission will be by bundles of clothing, old or new, which are to be distributed among Port land's poor. Mayor Baker has given his full approval to the plan and will co-operate in seeing that the cloth ing reaches worthy families. Cloth ing for all ages and both sexes is desired. Anyone noj. caring for the dancing may leave bundles of cloth ing at the clubhouse on or before the day of the party. The club will pay all expenses of the party. 25 Actions Dismissed. SALEM, Or., Jan. 8. (Special.) More than 25 actions filed ln the cir cuit court here wre dismissed by Judge Kelly last night for want of prosecution. Under a rule adopted here, all cases which have not been prosecuted within 12 months, unless proper showing for continuance has been made, are dismissed from the trial docket. Adventlst Tabernacle Burns. BATTLE CREEK, Mich., Jan. 8. The Seventh Day Adventlst tabernacle built In 1884. and the mother church of Mrs. Ellen G. (Mother) White, founder of the religion, burned last night. The property loss is estimated at $50,000. Putting Thrift Across YOU'LL admit that the problem of saving money is quite as hard to solve as making it. Yet do you strive as hard with the one as with the other? .Why not' aren't the re- 3uio as nuiui-wuue; You'll get help here for the United States National service during 1922 is dedicated to pro moting thrift. . If you are not among the more than 7000 new thrifters who opened savings accounts h e r'e in the past several months come in now. There's lots of room at the top of the bank balance sheet for your name. United Stales National Banlo Sith and Stark, Lloyd George and Briand Disagree on Action Against Germany; Belgium Insists on Priority. CANNES. Jan. 8. (By the Asso ciated Press.) Premier Briand and Lloyd George today had their first talk here on the future relations be tween France and Great Britain. It is understood that they went over broadly the principal questions. A Franco-British alliance for mu tual defense has created a strong undercurrent of opinion here, not withstanding that the atmosphere has seemed to be little favorable to ne gotiations tending to make relations between the two countries closer. The two premiers appear far apart re garding the attitude the allies ought to take toward Germany after the de fault in the payment of reparations ami are not In accord as to whether the explanations ought to be heard here. Council circles were much agitated today by reports from Paris that a treaty had been signed, but the only document known to exist touching on an alliance Is a memorandum which gives reasons as a basis for such a pact. M. Briand s declaration for an alliance before he departed from Paris made a marked Impression on the British, who advanced the argument that it would Be easier to deal wun France on European questions. If she were not able to hold forth as an argument on her part failure to se cure from the United States guaran tees for her security, such as would have been given her if the Versailles tripartite agreement had been rati fied "Belgium cannot renounce the priv ilege, acknowledged by all the allies, the priority payments by Germany." said MJaspar, Belgian foreign min ister, today "We recognized the Wiesbaden agreement, granting France 1.250, 000, 000 marks In kind, but the allies must recognize our needs and, inasmuch as Germany can pay in 1922, we want our priority In the payments." Reparation experts .have increased the total amount Germany win be re quired to pay In cash In 1922 from 500,000,000 gold marks to vuu.uuu.uou, This was done as a concession to Bel gium when it was seen 500000,000 would be absorbed In the cost of the ftrmies of occupation. The allies are anxiously awaiting a reply from the United States to the Invitation to Join In the economic conference. . There is considerable speculation here as to how the United States will regard the new attitude toward Rus sia, but both the French and British delegates are of the opinion that the United States will recognize Russia on the conditions they have laid down. MOVIE SH0WTAX KEPT Levy Charged on All Admissions More Than 1 0 Cents. Patrons of picture shows, other amusement houses, and even of stores, have expressed considerable surprise since the first of the year over the continuation of certain war taxes. One theater manager said yesterday that hundreds of persons complained at his box office because taxes were still collected, their impressions being that some or all of the war taxes were to be abandoned -at the begin ning of the year. The actual change, which led to the Impression was an announcement that all tickets to places of amusement costing not more than 10 cents were free from war taxes, while the tax was still to be collected on all tickets costing more than that. City Club to Hear Tagawa. The City club will hold a special meeting next Saturday noon in addi tion to its regular Friday noon lunch eon In order to hear D. Tagawa, one of the most eminent parliamentari ans of Japan. H. Ashley Ely of the City club received a telegram yester day from Washington saying that Mr. Tagawa would stop in Portland on his way home. Mr. Tagawa Is a mem ber of the Japanese parliament and was in Washington as a representa tive of the limitation of armament conference, although not a delegate to the conference. 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