THE MORNING OltEGONIAN, TUESDAY, AUGUST 2, 1921
SIDES OF EVEREST
APPALL EXPLORER
World's Highest Peak Is Hard
to Approach.
CROWDS SURROUND CAMP
Illness Due to High Altitude Ceases
and Transports Work Well;
Greatest Task Lies Aliead.
BT COLOXEX. HOWARD BTTRT.
Leader of Mount Everest Expedition.
(Copyrighted and Supplied by the Mount
Everest Committee.
TINGRI DZOXG, Tibet, via Simla,
India, July 27. (Special Cable Dis
patch.) Details of our journey along
the valley of the Dhong to Tingri
Dzong follow:
After leaving our eandswept camp
vie returned into the valley of the
Dhong, Chu river flowing from the
west in considerable volume. Major
Morshead and his surveyors were
kept extremely busy en route, climb
ing hills on either side of the valley
and taking observations, as it was all
new country through which we were
passing, never surveyed before. He
and his surveyors have mapped out
eome 25,000 square miles of new
country.
The views from some of the hills
were wonderful, extending from be
yond Chomophari, over 120 miles
away, to the east, and embracing
practically all the high snow peaks
from Chomophari to Gosainthan, a
distance of some 250 miles. In the
center Everest stood out all by itself,
a wonderfully shaped peak, towering
several thousand feet above its
neighbors and entirely without a
rival.
Wild Flowers Delightful.
The" transport consisted only of
donkeys, many very small, but quite
accustomed to carrying heavy loads
for two days. The march up the
valley of the Dhong "brought us to
Kiskong. a pretty village, sur
rounded by willows and sea buck
thorn. On the way I turned off to
visit a small Bide valley which,
though more than 15.000 feet above
the sea, was a mass of wild roses and
Juniper. The roses were cream
colon d and the sweetest scented.
Kvery bush was covered with hun
dreds of creamy write flowers. Here
and there patches of soft green grass
and bubbling sorir-gs were unex
pected delights of this somewhat arid
country.
At one place I passed five large
white chortens (pyramidal structures
of. soi:d stone masonry), under which
1 was told an exceptionally malig
nant devil was buried, the center
cl'orttn being over his body and the
four side ones keeping his hands and
feet underground, thus preventing
him from working any harm.
Crowds Surround Camp.
From Klshong to Shekal Dzong
was a short march. At the latter
place, the headquarters of the dis
trict, two ionepens resided, one lay
and the other ecclesiastical. There
Is also a large monastery with 400
monkj. The views from Shekal
Dzong were quite imposing, as It
.stands on a conical, rocky hill like
an enlarged Saint Michael's mount.
The actual town is on the base of the
Mil. but the monastery, consisting of
innumerable buildings and .narrow
strei ts, is literally perched half way
up the hillside and connected by walls
and towers, with the fort built still
higher up. That again is connected
by turreted walls with a curious
Gothic-like structure on the summit,
where incense is freely offered to the
deities. Altogether, It Is a most re
markable place.
We pitched camp in a willow grove
at the hill base. Immense crowds of
people ' flocked around. A jongpen
arrived with gifts of eggs. He re
lieved us from the too pressing at
tentions of the crowd and soon had a
fine Chinese tent pitched for us.
Electric Torch Given Jonltpts.
"We remained at Shekal Dzong over
the following day, owing to difficul
ties of transport. In the morning we
called on the ecclesiastical jongpen
the other being away at Lhassa. He
wisely lived in a house at the foot of
the hill, instead of his official resi
dence high up on the mountainside.
He gave us the usual Tibetan tea
made with salt and butter, but well
churned up and, therefore, not too un
pleasant. We were also given sweet
meats and dishes of macaroni. These
presented no difficulties, as we are
becoming experts with chopsticks. We
presented the Jongpen with an elec
trie torch, which at first rather
frightened him. but afterward caused
great astonishment and gave much
pleasure.
In the afternoon we went up to
visit the monastery. It consisted of
a great number of buildings, ter
raced one above the other, on a steep
rocky slope. A path across the face
of the rock brought us to several
archways, under which we went, and
then climbed up the narrowest wind
ing streets until we reached the main
courtyard and temple. There we were
mtt by the official head of the mon
astery, appointed by the Lhassa gov
eminent and responsible for the rev
em:es and expenditure of the. mon
as; ery. He conducted us into th
main temple, which was dark and
en.elt strongly of rancid butter from
all the butter lamps.
Old Abbott Visited.
There were several life-sized stat
lies of Buddha covered with preciou
sti-nes and turquoises, and behin
thorn a colossal figure of Buddha quite
60 feet high. Round about the tempi
were eight curious figures, some te
feet high, and dressed in quain
flounced dresses, which, I was told,
were the eight guardians of the
shrine. Then we ascended steep, slip
pery ladders, almost In complete dark
ne 43, until we came out on a platform
opposite the gilded face of the great
Kuddha. Here were offerings of grai
and butter in great profusion, som
most Interesting pieces of carved sil
ver, exquisitely worked; also som
curious old chain armor: Then w
went into a kind of roof courtyard,
where we were given tea and sweet
meats.
Before leaving we called on the old
abbott of the monastery, the rein
carnation of a former abbott. He
proved a charming old man, who ha
rpant S6 years of his life in the mon
astery. The monks literally worship
him. He was interested in us, and his
attendants eventually persuaded him
to be photographed, as all wanted
picture of him since they said hi
earth time was now very short. H
attired himself In beautiful gold bro
cades, and some priceless silk hang
ings were used as a background.
promised that as soon as I could get
the photographs developed at Tingri
I would send him some copies. Th
promise was fulfilled. They had never
actually seen photographs, but had
heard about them.
Lunatic Rni Amuck.
That night we were awakened by
sounds of shouting, yelling and box
smashing.' It turned out to be a, luna
tic, who had come out in the full
moon and found his way Into our
camp, where he had seized an Ice ax
nd started Smashing some of our
cases. He was chased and handed
ver to the jongpen for disposal, who
had him locked up for the night. His
family came to us the next morning
In great distress and promised to
look after him.
The transport that was to take us
to Tingri was late arriving, and there
were the usual interminable discus-
ions. So we did not start till after-
oon. Five miles from Shekal Dzong
e crossed the Dhong Chu by a
ougb bridge built on loose srtone
lies, which saved us and the trans
port a wetting. Bullock and Mallory,
who started some hours earlier, were
not so lucky, as they did not find the
ridge, and got wet to their necks
trying to find the ford.
The next day brought us to Tingri
Dzong, a small trading mart situated
n an isolated hill in the middle of a
great plain, gradually rising to Ever
est and the wonderful snowy chain
of mountains, 25,000 to 27.000 feet Sn
height, forming the Tibet-Nepal
boundary. Here we were given an
old Chinese rest house to live In, as
this is our base for stores and sup
plies while reconnoitering the ap
palling, steep northern and north
western approaches to Everest.
The foregoing 19 the sixth of Colo
nel Howard Bury's dispatches on the
Mount Everest expedition, and car
ried the narrative to Tingri Dzong,
hich doubtless Is within 50 miles of
the point shown on the maps under
hat name, which maps, according to
Colonel Bury, are greatly inaccurate.
Maps which members of the expedi
tion probably are preparing as a re-
ult of their survey of 25,000 square
miles of hitherto uncharted territory
must be available before the world
ill know Just where the expedition
Is located.
Reconnoiterlng parties sent out
from Tingri Dzong, which has been
established as a base, evidently have
ot met with success, as Colonel
Bury refers to the northern and
orthwestern approaches as "ap
palling"; but the party probably is
waiting more information concern
ing them before comparing them with
the known approaches on the south
and west.
The party decided to take this long
nd circuitous route almost around
Everest on reports from natives that
easier approaches lay to the north
and northwest and also by the fact
that this route was untried. Colonel
Bury's note of disappointment Is not
too discouraging to those who have
tudied what little is known of the
territory around Everest, because It
as expected that unless the expedi
tion discovered some easily accessible
ass. Its most difficult time lay
ahead. The fact that there has been
o more Illness owing to the altitudes
nd that the transport seemingly Is
holding up will be looked upon as of
ood omen.
CLEAN-UP STARTS TODAY
CUT WIMJ SURVEY PROPERTY
AS PKELJMIXAR.X STEP.
Campaign Against "Weds, Ill-Kept
Lots and Overhanging Trees
Ordered Ty Mayor.
The city's clean-up campaign
against weeds. Ill-kept lots and low-
hanging tree branches will begin
today, according to decision reached
yesterday by Mayor Baker in confer
ence with Chief of Police Jenkins.
City Attorney Grant and members of
the city hall force. A survey of the
entire city will be made by four In
spectors from the department of pub
lic works and all persons notified
who have failed to clean up their
vacant lots.
Ten days will be given owners to
respond to the clean-up notice. Those
who fail to comply with the ordi
nance will be subject to arrest. The
weeds and other unsightly growth
must be removed, according to the
decision of Mayor Baker.
Chief Inspector Fleming of the de
partment of public works will have
charge of the weed survey. The city
will be plotted and each section cov
ered as soon as possible.
Although ample authority is given
by an ordinance that compels owners
of property to destroy weeds and
clean up vacant lots, Mayor Baker
anticipates that there will be little
need to resort to arrest to Induce
citizens to clean out the weeds. Prac
tically everyone recognizes the desir
ability of clean premises as a civic
asset and is ready to co-operate if
assurance is given that all property
will be treated accordingly, said the
mayor.
Out-of-town owners will be reached
by notification if possible. In cases
where the owners cannot be located
the city will use trusties from the
city Jail to do the work and will
assess the cost to the property. No
tices will be posted by the inspectors
on lots that need cleaning up.
The matter of properly trimming
trees on the curbs will be taken
up along with tne weed campaign.
Owners of property are expected to
see that all trees along their curbs
are trimmed so that limbs are eight
feet or more above the street level. -
GREEKS RACE FOR ENTRY
Minutes Are Important to Immi
grants Eager to Land.
NEW YORK. Aug. 1. It pays im
migrants to form their line on , the
three-mile limit.
Since Friday there had been bob
bing about off Sandy Hook on the
steamship Megali Hellas a number of
Greeks who could not crowd into the
United States with the July quota al
lotted their country under the new
restrictive immigration laws.
Then, Just as the calendar was flip
ping over to August, along came the
steamer Calabria, with another con
tingent of Greeks whose number,
added to those aboard the Megali
Hellas, gave a total ot 704, or 47
more than Greece's total for this
month.
So today the two boats made a dash
for quarantine, and the Megall'Hellas
edged In two minutes ahead of her
rival, thereby assuring her passen
gers a foothold on the promised land.
Of the $32,000,000 expended for a
first-class battleship, $21,000,000 is for
the macninery.
LEARN DANCING
All New Steps and Popu
lar Itanr-ea Guaranteed in
Ladles f3, Gentlrmrn 3
IXUoDcy'a beautiful acid
emy, 23d and Washing
ton. Beginners' class
starts Tuesday and Thurs
day evening's, 8 to 11:30.
ricutjr m uesiraDie part
ner ana practice; no
embarrassment. Tou can
never learn dancing In
private lessons from In
terior teachers you must
V;,RN IN A REAL
m-nwu rnone Main
J858. Private lessons all
itviuai
WARDING SEES ERA
OF WORLD PEACE
Plymouth Rock Rededicated
to Justice.
BRIGHT FUTURE FORESEEN
President Confident Disarmament
Conference Will Lead Nations
to Xew Understanding.
fConttnnea From First Page,
Our faith Is firmer that war's causes
may be minimized and overburdening
armaments may be largely dimin
ished. And these, too, without sur
render of the nationality which has
Inspired, or the good conscience
which has defended.
Faith Placed In Future.
"The international prospect is more
than promising and the distress and
depression at home are symptomatic
of early recovery. Solvent financially,
sound economically. unrivaled In
genius, unexcelled in Industry, reso
lute In determination and unwaver
ing In faith, these United States will
carry on."
In the course of his speech Mr.
Harding praised particularly the. part
religious freedom and other New
England traditions had played In de
velopment of the nation. He also
took occasion to deplore the common
tendency to concentrate govern
mental authority in Washington and
to reaffirm his faith In religion as
an essential element of good gov
ernment. The president said in part:
"It Is not too much to say that the
three centuries which have passed
since men of our race came here to
found a new state have been the most
momentous and the most pregnant
In all the progress of human kind.
Democracy's Seed Productive.
"To this and the Virginia shore
were transplanted the seeds of repre
sentative democracy, the new ideals
of nationality through association
and representation and there has de
veloped seemingly the most deoend.
able form of popular government ever
witnessed in the world.
"Whether we reflect upon the re
straints upon freedom which the
fathers imposed, or measure the
broader liberty under the law of to-
aay, nere tegan the reign of depend
able public opinion, which unTall
lngly is the law of highest civiliza
tion. "No one will ever dispute the large
part New England played in the rear
ing" of new standards of freedom. The
early struggles here were contempo
raneous with the making of modern
British constitutionalism and the new
world beacon was an Incentive and
an inspiration across the sea, and to
day the old world and new Join in re
joicing at the ends achieved. The be
ginning of the American run may
fairly be tracked back to the larger
part of a century from the date we
commonly fixed for it. to the great
town meeting in the Old South church,
to which was submitted the question
whether the colony would assent to
the charter reorganization that .the
king demanded.
Tyrannic Are Destroyed.
"If the idea of religious freedom
had little to hope for from the effort
or the stern old fathers to set up a
theocracy in New England, the ideal
of political freedom found here a
particularly fertile soil in which to
germinate.
"The clash between a theocratic
tyranny on this side and a political
tyranny on the other resulted In the
destruction of both, to the vast bet
terment of every human Interest in
volved. "Hand of man alone did not build
what was founded here; it was but the
visible sign, the human symbol, of a
purpose, which we may not under
stand, but for whose beneficence all
men must give tribute of praise and
voice undying gratitude.
"The English-speaking race had
hardly established itself In true char
acter as the foremost exponent of
liberal institutions wnen It began to
distribute itself among the wilder
nesses of the earth. It has carried
its ideals wherever It has set Its
standard. It has won recognition of
these ideals, as the basis of social
conduct, of community relations,
throughout the world. Its work is
rrot finished, but pray God. It has
come triumphantly tnrough its de
termining ordeal. It comes forth
from that test, nerved and heartened
for further tasks; confident, assured,
reliant. None questions either its
place or Its right of leadership; few
doubt its destiny to establish, under
that divine guidance which It has
ever recognized, the splendid struc
ture of human brotherhood In peace
iiiaiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiw
"A Story of Achievement"
. We have just issued an interesting illustrated folder called "A EE
H Story of Achievement" setting forth the- accomplishments of Port- EE
j land in supporting the upbuilding of one of the largest manufacture
ing enterprises in this city The Portland Vegetable Oil Mills fjj
U Company.
EE Write us for a copy of this folder. It will interest every resident H
E in Portland who believes in the upbuilding of his own home city. EE
I Invitation to Visit Our New Plant
EE We extend to the people of Portland an invitation to visit our new plant EE
EE now in process of construction. The invitation covers afternoons only during EE
EE this week. , EE
EE A guide will conduct parties from our temporary plant office (near en- E
EE trance) at 2 P. M., 3 P. M., and 4 P. M., and will explain the purposes of the EE
EE various buildings. EE
E Take 16th-street cars to foot of 21st street. Automobiles cross Northern' U
Pacific tracks at foot of 22d street. Plant located on Front street north of " EE
EE Nicolai street (which is extension of 22d street). EE
1 Portland Vegetable Oil Mills Co. I
805 Wilcox Building H. H. Ward, Finance Director E
lliiipiiiiiiiiiiiiHin
and understanding.
"Just as the Pilgrims had a prac
tical mind tor material things amid
effective pursuit of their higher
ideals, so must we with our in
heritance. "Just as these fathers drew to
gether toward ample authority to
make the nation and still preserve
the freedom of these who compose
it, so must we guard against the su
preme centralization of power at
home, and the superstate for the
world. More, we must . combat the
menace in the growing assumption
that the state must support the peo
ple, for Just government Is merely
the guaranty to the people of the
right and opportunity of that people
to support themselves. The one out-r
standing danger of today Is the ten
dency to"turn to Washington for the
things which are the tasks or the
duties of - the 48 commonwealths
which constitute the nation. Having
wrought the nation as the central
power of preservation and defense,
let us preserve It so.
"Here was the early dedication to
religious liberty and political free
dom. It was a sublime gift to pos
terity. We cannot better express our
reverence today than by sweeping
aside the errors, the failures, the dis
appointments, the betrayals of our
day and plant here for all America
and all the world the standards of
highest Justice and real human
brotherhood. This would add to the
volume of rejoicing on earth and
give echo to the heavens of the
nobler aspiration of united mankind.
It would dim no torch of liberty
which was lighted here, but would
set the world aglow with new hopes,
new confidence and new exaltation."
President Harding left Plymouth
tonight for Portland, Maine. The
submarine chaser 408, with the presi
dential party aboard, shoved off at
11:17 and went down the harbor to
transfer them to the Mayflower.
BIG WHEAT FIELDS BURN
MOKE T2LAX 75 0 ACRES OF
GRAIN DESTROYED.
More Than 100 Men Fight Blaze
. In Washington All Afternoon
and Finally Give Tp.
WALLA WALLA. Wash, Aug. 1.
(Special.) Fire on the Jacob Valaer
ranch, near Berryman, this afternoon
destroyed more than 750 acres of
wheat which has been yielding from
45 to 50 bushels to the acre, causing a
loss of between 33,000 and 37,000
bushels of grain.
On a section farmed by Frank Ade
approximately 100 acres of grain
threshed and in three settlings of
about 500 sacks each, were burned
and on the portion farmed by Jerry
Baker 650 acres were burned over of
which 250 was standing grain and
400 acres had been threshed. The
loss is mostly covered by. insurance.
Efforts to extinguish the fire were
useless. - More than 100 men fought
the flames all afternoon and finally
had to withdraw and let the fire burn
itself out. A west wind carried the
flames into wheat with unusually
heavy straw and there was no stop
ping it. Men started back-fires, but
with a mile of flames to fight It was
useless.
The fire burned some stubble and a
little standing grain on the Henry
Kaseberg farm, owned by Walter Mil
ler, and some stubble on the part of
the valeer ranch farmed by William
Thompson, but this loss is small.
Origin of the fire Is a mystery. It
started in a canyon on the Ade place
a mile from a road and-where thresh
ers had left three days ago. Mr. Ade
had been in the canyon the day be
fore and Baker s men were working
within a quarter of a mil of the place
all day. This afternoon they started
working the combine around the sec
tion and shortly after 1 o'clock the
fire was noticed. It burned out about
6 o clock.
The scene is near the Charles
Flathers place, where more than 700
acres of -grain were burned about
two weeks ago. These were the two
largest grain fires in the county tills
year.
LEADER OF BREAK CAUGHT
Boy Who Planned State Re form a
tory Escape First to Be Caught.
SALEM. Or.. Aug. 1. (Special.)
Stacy Dunn, who was held responsible
for the escape of 12 boys from the
state training school for boys Sunday,
was the first of their number to be
retaken. Eight others were captured
within a few hours, but three of the
youths are still at large.
The boys made their escape through
a window and took refuge in a nearby
timbered district. The boys still at
large are Lloyd Longwell. of Baker,
Dany Custer of Union county and Les
ter Weinberger of Fossil.
Highway Safety Object.
OLYMPIA, Wash., Aug. 1. (Spe
cial.) The department of efficiency
L. D. McArdle director, through the
Refreshed!
That "good-as-new"
feeling for
jaded nerves,
tired bodies and
sleepy appetites
is waiting for you
here any time
for breakfast,
lunch or dinner
at a popular price
with service
that SERVES.
imperial
Manager.
division of highway controll, is formu
lating a system for safety ana preser
vation of the public highways. Its
efforts are being directed with
view to enlisting the co-operation of
county attorneys, sheriffs and other
representatives of the law. and the
individual and collective assistance
pf law-abiding motorists through
their various organizations.
EILERS APPEAL GRANTED
CASE IXTOLVIXG RECEIVER
SHIP GOES TO HIGHER COURT
Portland Music Merchant Succeeds
In Getting Litigation' Before
Highest Federal Tribunal.
SAN FRANCISCO, Aug. 1. The
United States circuit court of appeals
directed today that the Eilers Music
house receivership case, involving a
chain of - some 40 stores In the Pa
cific northwest, should be taken to
the United States supreme court on a
writ of certiorari without requiring
Hy J. Eilers of Portland, Or., to file
an additional bond of $150,000, as re
quested by the receiver. H. W. Sitton
The ruling against additional bond
was made without prejudice.
Pending the certiorari proceedings,
the circuit court also declined to issue
a writ of mandate to enforce Its pre
vious decision that the Oregon Eilers
Music house and the Spokane branch
of the Eilers chain be turned over to
the receiver.
According to Dan Powers, associate
attorney for Hy J. Eilers, who re
turned from San Francisco yesterday
an additional $150,000 bond had been
demanded of Eilers in addition to the
$75,000 bond already given, and that
following the refusal of the court to
grant this an attempt was made to
have the appeal dismissed, in connec
tion with the case Judge Hunt of the
United States circuit court of appeals
at San Francisco said yesterday. "This
is al proper case to be sent to the
United States supreme court at Wash
ington for further proceeding," ac
cording to Mr. Powers.
The decision was given against
Eilers June 6, and was appealed from
in the circuit court of appeals to the
United States supreme court.
There were two dissenting opinions
by the United States circuit court of
appeals from juage uuoori m oa.a
Francisco.
Writ of Review Is Asked.
OLYMPIA, Wash., Aug. 1 (Spe
rial.) The United Auto Transporta
tion company of Tacoma today filed
P
The Genii of
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W vacation? The Genii of the Savings Book will
bring it to you I
It needs no fervent resolution, only a little patient self
denial to save when you have an object in view.
Competence and comfort lie within the reach of every man!
What you want you can have!
Begin now to SAVE. Open your account with The First
National Bank, the largest national bank in the Pacific
Northwest.
THE FIRST NATIONAL BANK
OF PORTLAND OREGON
THE FIRST NATIONAL BANK WEST
OF THE ROCKY FOUNTAINS
a petition asking for a writ of re
view in the matter of the granting
of a right, through their certificate
of nrres(ty, to tne "Thompson &
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1
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ancfl 1 1 mm m kdu grew
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larger or a smaller one.
7
One press on the syrop syphon,
with the sods man's sense of
touch for exact measurements,
gives on ounce of Coca-Cola
syrup- you know just where it
should come to in the glass to
he precisely the right amount.
Pull the aflver faucet for frre
ounces of pure, ice-cold car
bonated water with the one
ounce of syrup this quantity fills
the class.
Drink
Savings Doold f .
Smith company of Olympla, to pick
up passengers at Intermediate points
between Olympla and Tacoma. and
partlr nlarly Pump Lewis. They a Ism
You may take trp a bit of th ,
proportion of water with ice, at a
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Done quickly? Ton bet. The
rising bubble just bare time to
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tops the brim as the f !ul - is
passed Ter the marble fountain,
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That's the soda fountain recipe
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perfectly because Coca-Cola syrup
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la se ka a
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In.. TBirst H
br um uwt with
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ireLsnt M tttwiavb laajrhss wosjld err
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Ixom nine
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THE COCA-COLA COMPANY, Atlanta. Ga.
Iff
auk for a restraining order from the
superior court of Thurston county,
where the petition for the writ of
review i? filfd.
sunny climes, nine different eavra
tries, are properly combined in
esci'y ounce.
Guard against the natural mis.
takes of too much syrup and too
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syrup to five ounces of water,
and something of the rare quality
of Coca-Cola is lost; yon don't
get Coca-Cola at the top of its
flavor and at its highest appeal. ,
J
Coca-Cola is sold everywhere
with universal popularity, because
perfect service and not variations
is a soda fountain rule.
i