titt: morntxg oregoman, tiiurstat, ArnrL n. 1914.
PANTALETTES VIE
WITH PEEK-A-BOOS
French Styles Thrill Gotham.
But Don't Shock, at Spring
Fashion Show.
DIRECTOIRES REAL THINGS
,11 a rem Veils, Vari-Colored Wigs,
Gold Brocades and Much Trans
parency Parade Before De
votees of Latest in Dress.
NEW YORK. April 4. In variety of
rtyles, splendor of color and wonderful
textures, the Spring parade of Kronen
fashions at the Department Store Fash
ion Show outmarveled the styles of les
Merveilleux of the IMrectoire.
Directoire costumes, the real things.
were there indeed, to illustrate their
Influence upon the incoming' modes for
spring and tlummer. Kive toilets of the
kind worn by stately beauties, trained
to wear clothes with grace, introduced
the parade. !
They were made in Paris for the oc
casion from designs by the artist, M.
Fascaud, an authority on the directoire
period.
Even to setting, the parade was true
to the directoire influence. It repro
duced the Garden of the Palais Royale,
from a. scene in the play, "L.es Merveil
leuses," which is now being presented
at the Theater Varietes in Paris.
Chief among the striking notes of the
exposition were wigs dyed to match
some part of the costume. These all
came from the Paris bureau of the
house.- And startling as vividly colored
hair sounds, it must be admitted that
some of these innovations were
strangely becoming".
With a rich pink silk gown that was
brocaded with big gold designs and
combined in waist and sash with blue
tulle there was a soft old blue wig. An
other costume was accompanied by a
green wig.
The harem veil was another pro
nounced introduction. It was worn
with a striking Oriental toilet of cit
ron-colored crepe satin embroidered
with jet, and the. white lace veil that
covered the face was woven in pattern.
except for an oblong space just over the
eyes. Paul Poiret was the author of
this toilet.
Pantalettes were there, the dainty
lace frills, puffed about the ankles and
dropping to the instep, that have been
revived from 1857.
A pretty girl, to whom the mincing
step and laughing grace of that day
came natural, introduced them under a
prrisette turquoise taffeta frock, bouf
fant with draperies to suit the. style.
The costume was a product of the house
of Premet
Basques falling over full puffed but
tle backs were among the revivals of
me same period. Ana some or trie oia
colors of the same day were present
.Magenta, vivid as ever, was combined
with white taffeta in a bouffant dress
in which ruffles of magenta and white
alternated the length of the skirt.
And the transparent waist had
magenta taffeta lining to the bust.
This half-lining is the rule with even
ing waists, the upper part of the waist
In all cases being transparent. Sleeves,
of course, were mostly absent in such
blouses.
Among the suits and dresses dls
played there were representative from
all the leading Paris houses Paquln
Beer, Drecoll, Callot, Havet, Poiret and
all the rest.
Wraps and coats came from such
makers as Bernard, Worth, Cheruit and
Arnold.
Children's garments were delight
fully shown on charming youngsters.
And the hats that went with the cos
tumes were from such notable design
ers as Cieorgette. Lewis. Reboux and
many others. The parade will continue
for several days.
with the programme arranged to pro-1
mote the vacant lot garden movement.
City Forester Boddy announced. There
will be no formal outdoor exercises- on
tree planting.
Mrs. Josephine L. Kesbitt. civic im
provement representative of the Ptate
Agricultural Commission, will deliver
a series of lectures on vacant lot gar
dening and civic betterment next week.
The Arbor day exercises will be con
bolidated with the lecture, according to
Boddy.
City Councilmen were asked by W.
H. Winans, Commissioner of Publicity i
and research, to name at once a citi-1
zens committee in their respective
wards to co-operate in the clean-up
campaign during the last week in April
and the first week in May.
This was in accordance with a reso
lution adopted by the Council recently.
Winans asked that the names of the
committeemen be forwarded to the of
fices of the clean-up organization so
that formal instructions could be sent
out.
The citizens committee which is co
operating' with the city will hold a
meeting at the Chamber of Commerce
to formulate further plans for carrying
on the work.
Sketches which are to be used by the
committee in illustrating campaign lit
erature are being received by Norman
E. Hills, secretary of the committee.
Cash prizes aggregating J50 have been
offered for the best sketches, and
judges to make awards will be select
ed at the next meeting.
HONORS DIVIDED AT
SCHOOL MAT MEET
ACTOR VOICES IDEALS
FORBES - ROBERTSON BELIEVES
ACTOR-MANAGERS NEEDED.
Lincoln and Jefferson Each
Win Four at Interscholas
tic Wrestling.
WEST SIDE FORFEITS ONE
To Ralae Artistic Standard of Theater
In America New Methods, Not
Combine.. Required. -
PHILADELPHIA. April 3. Sir
Johnston Forbes-Robertson believes
that more actor-managers are needed,
to raise the artistic standard of the
American theater.
Je expressed this opinion in an in
terview while playing his farewell en
gagement In this city. He pointed out
the fact that America's finest actors.
including the late Richard Mansfield,
E. H. Sothern and William Faversham,
have been most successful, from the
standpoint of dramatic art, when di
recting their own productions. , He
added :
"I believe that the United States will
have more actor-managers In future.
Instead of a chain of theaters, a man
ager will be contented with one, and
I am sure that is enough for an indi
vidual to conduct properly. In London
we have actor-managers who have
their own theaters. More than 20 years
ago I virtually was compelled to be
come my own manager.
I am opposed to theatrical combi
nations, or at least those that seem too
extensive. Let us have independence.
I am glad to observe that the principal
cities of the United States are evinc
ing a tendency toward theatrical inde
pendence. Plays that fail in Chicago
are successful In New York, or those
that please in Philadelphia "are not
liked in Boston, and so on."
He was enthusiastic, however, in his
praise of certain phases of the work
done in American theaters. Conditions
now are much more encouraging here,
he said, than when he visited America
in 1885.
He admitted that commercialism in
the theater probably had a discourag
ing effect upon dramatists, who aspire
to a high standard of artistic excel
lence, but he held that the advent of
the actor-manager would eradicate this
lamentable tendency.
He defended the militant suffragists
as a natural outcome of the British
attitude toward their cause. He con
tinued: "Of course. It is obvious that the mil
itants often have gone too far. It is
never wise to disobey existing laws
simply because we disapprove of them."
BRITONS TO BUILD TEH
NAVAL PROGRAMME ANNOUNCED
BT WINSTON CHURCHILL.
INDIAN REBEL WILL HANG
Troops Make Quick Work of Men
AMio Do Xot Fear Ballets.
BOMBAY, April 8. (Special.) The
Special Court at Sunthrampur. which
was appointed by the government of
India to deal with the case ' the self
styled prophet Govindgar and his fol
lowers, has sentenced Govindgar to
death by hanging, while his chief asso
ciate, Punja, has been sentenced to
transportation for the term of his life.
The charge against both men was one
of "waging war against the King."
Twenty-eight of their followers have
been sentenced to three years' imprts
onment The case was an extraordinary one.
Oovlndgar was formerly a cultivator.
but in 1911 he appeared in the new
guise of a religious reformer, and be-
Kan to preach, with striking results.
lie posed as a prophet, and, collecting
an enormous number of followers, es
tabltshfd a camp on Mangadb Hill, be
tween Bansda and Sunthrampur States.'
Here he defied the authorities, who '
were soon confronted by a situation
containing many dangerous elements?
Oovlndgar persuaded his disciples
that he was Immortal and that he had
the power of making them Invulnerable
against the guns of the police and sol
diers. Ultimately the government or
India, took the affair in hand, and a
force, under command of Major Bayley,
One Hundred and Fourth Rifles, cap
tured the prophet's stronghold, taking
300 Bhlls prisoners.
Alliance With Japan Renewed In til
1021 and Will Be deeded After
That Time, Says First Lord.
COOPER ON HONEYMOON
father of Young Hood Jtiver Ran
cher Weds Early Sweetheart.
GRAND FORKS. N. D.. April 6.
Scheduled to have been arraigned here
charged with bribery in connection with
the acquittal of his son. McLain Cooper,
of murder, Harry Cooper, of Hillsboro,
failed to appear in court, but instead
the announcement was made that he
was off on nis Honeymoon trip.
Mr. Cooper married Miss Grace Boen,
I.afayette, Ind.. Thursday, a sweetheart
of many years ago.
The elder Cooper, who is a promi
nent farmer and business man of Hills
boro, was widowed about a year ago,
Mrs. Cooper dying in a St. Paul hos
pital. The new Mrs. Cooper and the bride
groom weresweethearts before his
first marriage. She had remained
single during the Interval of 30 years.
Cooper had arranged with State's At
torney Burtness for a continuance while
on his wedding tour. He returns Mon
day.
LONDON. April 8. "Great Britain
will have ten of the new big-gun bat
tleships in the water by the time any
other nation in the world has two," de
clared Winston Spencer Churchill, first
lord of the admiralty, in the House of
Commons today.
"All of these ships, he added, will
carry 16-inch guns the best weapons
ever possessed by the British navy, and
capable of hurling a projectile weigh
ing a ton for a distance of 12 miles."
Four of these ships, which are to
buVn oil, are provided in the budget
for neit year. Three of them are of
the Royal Sovereign type and one of
the Queen Elizabeth type.
The Queen Elizabeth, launched last
October, cost $12,000,000.
A variant on ,the "naval holiday"
suggestion was ' produced by Mr.
Churchill when he Introduced the naval
estimates for 1914-15, amounting to
J257. 750.000. He said:
"Every delay, accidental or deliber
ate, by the next strongest power to
England will be matched by us.
Referring to the absence of the tnree
Canadian ships from the British naval
programme, Mr. Churchill said:
"We are not without nope, nowever.
that Canada will meet her share of the
naval defenses."
Turning to the situation In the Pa
cific Ocean. Mr. Churchill remarked
that the British alliance with Japan
had been renewed until 1921, and
added:
"It is not to be expected that Japan
will be less In need of her powerful
friend at the other end of the world at
that date than she is today."
Coach Fabre Vnable to Produce Anj
1 5 8-Pounler"Success of Tourney
Establishes It as Annual
Event in Future.
BY EARL R. GOODWIN
In the first wrestling meet ever held
In the Portland Interscholastic league,
the Lincoln High wrestlers divided
honors with the Jefferson High mat
men in the Lincoln gymnasium yester
day afternoon. Eight bouts were on
The programme, the West Siders win
ning four and forfeiting the 158-pound
match to Jefferson because no athlete
was available.
Coach Rinehart. of Jefferson, put
men on the mat who won the 110-
pound, 115-pound and the heavyweight
events, the West Siders taking the 125-
pound, 135-pound and 14o-pound con
tests. Coach Leon Fabre. of Lincoln
High, was unable to have his star
Condit go on at 158 pounds, and as
result the bout had to go by way of
forfeit.
All the matches were finished wres
tling and in but one Instance was any
dirty work" In evidence, but Rtfere
Edgar Frank saw it was but slight
and no damage resulted from it. As
result of the success attained at yes
terday's affair the wrestling meet will
be an annual event in the Portland
Interscholastic League.
Captain Clarke In Form.
Captain George Clarke, of Lincoln
High, entered two events, the 135
pound and 145-pound contests, and he
was returned the victor in each in
stance. The first fall against James
Cameron in the lighter weight came
after 1 minute and 10 seconds of wres
tling, but it took Clarke 4 minutes and
24 seconds to put his opponent's
shoulders to the mat the last time.
Steve Wilcox at 145-pounds proved
a stumbling block to Clarke, although
the winner took two straight falls, the
first in 5 minutes and 47 seconds and
the last in 3 minutes and 12 seconds.
The time limit for each fall was given
as 6 minutes.
In the opening match, the 110-pound
one. Manager Harry K.enin. of Jeffer
son, was not able to throw "Umpty"
Undine, but Referee Frank awarded the
contest to the East Slder on aggres
siveness
John W. F
quickest fall of the day by throwing
Laurie Dupre in 12 seconds. The fall
came more as a surprise to the Lin
colnite than anything else and he
came back for the second fall and
Feak had to go the full time limit be
fore he won the bout.
Sax la "Surprised."
Vincent Peterson' at 125-pounds was
too much for Moss Sax. of Jefferson.
Coach Fabre's protege taking the first
fall in 3 minutes and 60 seconds and
the second in but 34 seconds. &ax was
so surprised that he refused to shake
hands with the winner., something that
everyone of the other losing wrestlers
did at the end of each contest.
The other 135-pound match went to
Wallace McTarnahan. of Lincoln, but
only after three rounds had been pre
sented. The first fall went to Raymond
Bird at the end of 4 minutes and 40
seconds. McTarnahan came back
strong taking the next fall in 2
minutes and 55 seconds and winning
the third on aggressiveness after 6
minutes of milling.
The big surprise of the day came In
the last bout on the card, the heavy
weight. George Hansen, of Jefferson,
was slated to take on the 158-pound
Lincoln representative, but as none
was available he took on Manager
Stanley Howard, the Lincoln heavy
weight. Howard was the strongest of
the two by far. but the experience of
Hansen was, enough to' overcome his
adversary's difference in weight.
Howard took the first fall In 4 minutes
and 43 seconds with a half-Nelson.
Hansen came for the second round a
wiser and more cautious wrestler and
after a few preliminary holds he se
cured a hammerlock and Howard went
down in 2 minutes and 23 seconds. The
third fall went to Hansen in 3 minutes
and 30 seconds.
Edgar Frank Referees.
Edgar Frank, of the Multnomah
Club, officiated as referee; Clarence
Hendrickson, of Jefferson High School,
acted in the capacity of announcer, and
Uwin Hansen, of Lincoln High School,
and brother, of the Jefferson High
School. 158-pounder, was timekeeper.
Following are the results:
110-pounds Harry Kenln (J.) got
the decision over "Umpty" Undine (L.).
115-pounds John W. Feak (J.) ob
tained one fall and decision over
Laurie Dupre (L).
125-pound Vincent "Beauty" Peter
son (L) two falls over Mose Sax (J.).
135-pound Captain George Clarke
1 L&I:: ;. ::vi-.v : -siSailA
inn ww--h r
1 - T . A L. , . , . . . . . ' I
I V V-.Wf "15. Kit I
lira ... m um
a I "HI Ml SJcsA I
I ,W".- V 'ISll
O
SPRING TIME IS CLOTHES TIME"
Tailored Suits
of -
Distinctive
Merit
for fashionable men;
tailored to your indi
vidual measure for
The Morgan Building Tailoring Co., a first-class concern of wide
experience and ample capital, guarantees to build to your order a
perfect-fitting Suit, of the finest quality of Imported and Domestic
all-wool fabrics, in the new Spring colors and weaves.
All the garments are made by expert -union tailors, in Tortland, in
our own workshop.
Our guarantee, "your money back if not satisfied," fully protects
A trial order will convince vou that this is the one tailoring establishment
that Portland has so long needed, where you can get a perfect-fitting suit at the
moderate price of $25, $30, $35 first-class va every respect.
SPECIAL OPENING OFFER
We will tailor to your order a Suit of the famous Standish Blue
Cheviot, acknowledged to be the best fabric J?OC OO
made in America, for J)a "waViv
Most tailors would charge you $45.00.
Call and inspect the "store beautiful" at the entrance of the Morgan Building.
6
General
English.
Tailors and
Drapers
Morgan Building 346 Washington St.
RUGBY CAST ASIDE
the Kast Slder on aggres- , ...
fter two six-minute rounds. University of Southern uaiitor"
feak. of Jefferson, took the
ma to Play Real FootDaii
ENGLISH TYPE "WANTING
Fair Trial Proves Foreign Substitute
for Gridiron Sport "Grievously"
Deficient and liouglier Tlian
Yankee Play.
made here by the president of the Mine
Managers' Association. The real cause
of the industrial unrest in feoutn Arricm.
he says, is the advancing sum 01 hit.
natives, many of whom are now able to
do the white men's work.
"We must give equal opportunity to
the whites and blacks." said the presi
dent, "a thing which has long been de
nied them in the gold-mining Industry.
If the whites refuse to do manual work,
then they must accept reasonable wages
as skilled overseers or drop altogether."
DOCTOR LEAVES DYING SON
Geneva Man on Way to Seo Patient
Refuses to Turn Back.
GKNEVA, April 6. A doctor living
at the village of Montrlchor, Canton
of Vaud, has just undergone a terri
ble ordeal with great honor to his pro
fession. He received a telephone mes
Fsg that a young girl of Umanin had
broken a leg and was seriously Injured I sorrow, had often observed automobiles
while tobogganing on Mont Tendre, skimming gaily past the cottage where
tih set out at onca to render aid.
While on the way ha was ovenaaen
by a special messenger, who informed
him that his own son had met with a
dangerous accident and was dying. He
did not give up his trip, however, but
continued the Journey up the mountain.
After setting the girrs leg ana at
tending to her-transportation to Lau
sanne, the doctor In great fear re
turned home to find his son very se
riously but not mortally Injured, the
first accounts having been exagger
ated. Both the patients will recover.
WIFE GETS HER AUTO RIDE
long-Cherished Wish Keallwd1 by
Trip to Poor Farm
HAMMOND. Ind.. April 4. Mrs. Mary
Rrmi. aeed. bent and crippled with
more than half a century of toil and
she and her aged husband lived, and
wished she miht ride in an automo
bile, if for Just once.
Her wish was realized. The ride was
from her home to the county poor farm
and in no sense of tho term could it be
classed as a Joy ride. Her husband.
past 6(1 years of ace, lost his position
and he stumbled home with black de
spair written on his seamy old face.
The couple had no resources and were
merely pinching out an existence on
his little wages. They were facing
eviction and starvation, so the old man
cut his throat as the best solution of
his troubles. They had been the par
ents of 13 children, all of whom died,
leaving them a heavy load of grief and
burial expenses and no one to whom
they ooruld turn in their extremity.
So Father Kvans lost his little Job.
cut his throat and his aged wife finally
got her automobile ride.
A lens built In France for a new JMft.OOO
randlepower llirhthouii In Hawaii Is expect
ed to rrolvt th ltrht 40 mllA.
LOS ANGELES. Cal.. April 8. Rugby
football as an interscholastic game has
been given a fair trial and found
grievously wanting. That Is why It
has been eliminated and the American
styje of game substituted at the Uni
versity of Southern California, accord
ing to a statement today by Warren F.
Bovard, Jr., athletic manager at
university.
Among the fallings of Rugby, Bo
vard declared It was rougher and more
productive of injuries than the Amerl
o o-q mo The scoring also is an ar
bitrary thing, Bovard said. In that it
h. no roference to the actual value
nf nlnVM.
The main reason for dropping Rugby
at the University of Southern Lau
fornla. however. Is that It wants to
form a collegiate athletic conference
with the other two Southern edura
iinnl institutions Occidental and Po
mona colleges and If football Is to be
-V .i i- (11 V, n a n V-i A
playea wnn wiem fc
t h American frame.
"To keep athletics In its rightful sec
ondary place." said Bovard. "It Is es
.ontini to have faculty control. But
oart from that Rugby has been a fail
ure after a fair test. It is Impossible
to control a Rugby game In the same
iirr as the American game, it re
quires 30 husky young fellows on the
field, against 22 In the American; It
has 'one controlling official on the
flol.l aealnst three in the American
s-i.mo unit therefore it gets much
run phor "
Rnvurd made the prediction that
while Rugby Is liked by the players, it
will have disappeared from American
colleges within five years.
ijj-j io uui oicr warats uraeron I J.l. - - . , o-rT-ir-r TKDDCn
135-pound Wallace McTarnahan (L.) ROYAL STATU CO lAKntU
two falls over Raymond Bird (J.).
145-pound Captain George Clarke I , Tlrltlsh King and
, . . .. - . v-
(L.) two falls over Steve Wilcox (J.).
158-pound Forfeited to George Han
sen, of Jefferson, by default.
Heavyweight George Hansen (J.)
two falls out of three from Manager
Stanley Howard, of Lincoln.
MOVIES KILL PENSIONS
ISLAND RENTS FOR DOLLAR Mothers Cannot Get Money if They I
I Frequent Picture Houses.
Stale lO ISC JUitllU. limh vvsv
$2,000,000.
ARBOR DAY CAMPAIGN ON
Cleveland Proposes to Beautify Va
cant Ixits In City.
CLEVELAND,
exercises April
April 4. Arbor day
10 will be combined
NEW TORK. April 3. Ward's
Island. New. York, which cost the
city $2,000,000. will be leased to the
State of New York for fifty years
for the munificent sum of $1 a year.
"payable in advance."
About 15 years ago the state sold
Ward s Island to the city. It had been
used then, a3 now, for 'the care of the
Insane. When the Insane asylums Be
came state institutions the city re
tained title to the land. Instead ol
repurchasing the island the state made
a proposition to rent It at $1 a year.
It Is claimed by the state that the
amount paid yearly by the state for
the insane from New York and Rich
mond counties. J2.la9.32S. would, ac
cording to the number of patients from
New York, be paid almost entirely by
the County of New York.
The deal will be confirmed with a
proviso that no buildings and improve
ments shall be made upon the island
for the last 10 years of the lease un
lees the city consents thereto. This
clause was inserted at the suggestion
of the Mayor because the lease re
quires that the city shall pay to the
state the value of all buildings when
It takes over the property..
Queen Smeared by Vandals.
BOMBAY, April 6. (Special.) An
outrage which Is described here as an
insult to the British Crown Is reported
from the na tive state of Kolapore,
where statues of the late King Edward
and Queen Alexandra have been tarred.
Tho statues were unveiled last No
vember bv the Governor of Bombay,
and they have been smeared with tar
In such manner as to suggest that sev-
rl nersons must have been concerned
One of the two policemen on duty
near the statues at the time has dis
appeared.
CANTON. Ohio, April 4. Mothers
who frequent the movies cannot get a
pension under the new state law as
interpreted in Stark County.
shows?" will be one of the questions SKILL LAUot Ul"
. i .j i n l . uuc .ifli 1.15 airv.iuauiu n 1 1 1
ask every appllcaat for a pension. "We
would not refuse a pension Just because
the mother goes to a picture show once
in a while, but if we find that she goes
often she probably neglects her chil
dren and is not deserving of help."
The court will ask if any children
ever have been arrested. If they have.
It will be taken as Indication that they
are not being reared properly.
UNREST
Xatives Advancement Leads to DIs-
- tnrbance. Says Mine Manager.
JOHANNESBURG. April 5. (Spe
cial.) A startling statement has been
Your triumph and the peach crop
alwaya omewnat short of expectations.
are
CIGARETTE LAW IS FOUGHT I! II
Illinois Tobacco Dealers Threaten to
. Test Prohibitive Ordinance.
ROCKFORD, 111., April 5 The City
Council has rejected an ordinance
licensing the sale of cigarettes by a
10-to-5 vote. Tobacco dealers threat
en to test the constitutionality of the
ordinance enforced for the last six
years barring the sale of clgarettea
and have obtained contlnuancea of sev
eral charges of illegal salea pending
action by the Council.
Icle Silver
St.
M. r f U. Kaim. tor. a. I
mm mm. Jsa.'Ai nr'j-y ' j - 1 - tmmmtmr,
1 -. : r vs
ffU :
1 11 : ; ' w m m 1 - f 1
I 1 C-SST7 II
r
1 4 i?
11 Wi
Big Cities or at Country
Cross Roads
Wherever you motor you can
obtain Red Crown, the Gasoline
of Quality. This means the same
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always; no carburetor adjust
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D
OWN
The Gasoline of Quality
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power in every drop. Make
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Dealers everywhere, or ask our
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Standard Oil Company
(CftllfornliO
Portland