.-cr : . . . THE MORWi.'oREGOyiAy, FRIDAY, JULY 12, 1912. - 17-, INDEPENDENCE BY ADDISON BENNETT. Up the Willamette River about SO miles from Portland, where the val ley spreads out to the vest from the river to the Coast Range, taking in what might be called the Luckiamute Valley and reaching vo the head waters of the Siletz there on the banks of the "beautiful Willam ette" is situated the town of Inde pendence. To speak of the place as a town is true only in a sense, for while its population is not large enough per haps to entitle it to be called a city, the census giving it last year an enu meration of 1160, still it is in ways and manners and appearance, in all and everything that goes to make a city, quite a metropolis. During the hop-picking season each year there is an adjacent floating population of about 5000. Rich Soil Unsurpassed! Independence was a small hamlet as lone ago as 1847, thus being one of the older settled places in the Val ley. But for many years it was nothing more than a rather thickly settled farm section, for in the ear liest days of the settlement of Ore gon it was discovered that the site of the present town was the heart and center of one of the finest bod ies of agricultural land in the world. In all the country there is no finer land than can be found in the Wil-. lamette Valley; and the very cream of the Valley lies contiguous to In dependence. In those early days the people were all busilv engaged in making their farms, for most of the best land was covered with brush or timber. So "dot much attention was given to the building of trade centers, and the growth of Independence was so slow that still in 1890 there were not enough people there to give it a place in the census returns. .- Hence, whatever Independence js in the way of a thriving young me tropolis has taken place during the last 20 years or so. Being therefore in one sense an old town it is in real ity one of the newer towns of the state. Three riaia Present. There is no use in building or try ing to build a town without there is something back of it to maintain it, and there is nothing to enduringly back up-any town, any community or' any country, save agriculture. In the finality we all live and thrive from the products of the soiL There is no other source of sustenance, no other fountain of wealth. - We must all Jive or die, go up or down witb. the products of the soil indeed; man himself may be called a product or the soil, so intimately is his life en twined with the other products. For a thriving agriculture there must first be good soil ; second, a suf ficient amount of water, natural or artificial to produce crops; third, a climate suitable for sowing, cultivat ing and "harvesting. And in these essentials there is in all the world round no- more favorable location than, the Willamette Valley, the very cream of which is right at the street ends of Independence. Jim Bui, that long-headed old em pire-builder, one of the brainiest men who ever lived in this country, whose advice in as sure to be right as the sun is to shine in speaking of the Willamette Vallev, and having no doubt in his mind the beauty spot of that vaUey around Independence, said a few months ago: "The day of the large farm is past. What you want here is the man who will take ten acres and cultivate it thorough ly. The man who takes ten acres of your rich land and works it as it should be worsea, can easuy mane $5000 a year. Ten acres in the Wil lamette Valley should be as valuable from the standpoint of production and earning power as lbU acres in Minnesota, Illinois, Wisconsin and some other states in that section. L do not know of land anywhere that will compare with your land here." Advice Safe to Follow. A note indorsed by Jim Hill, to i :n: any amount up to several mimou dollars, would be grabbed up exult ing! y D7 ey nwney lender in the world who could handle it ; any rail road enterprise indorsed by Jim Hill would command instanter all the money needed for its construction any man wanting a home on the land can safely, take Jim mil s in dorsement of the Willamette Val ley, and the best of it is adjacent to Independence. , The first question the intending homeseeker 'usually ' asks about is as to the products which do best and pay the best returns in a given locality. To answer that question about the Independence section ould be difficult, for anything that grows in a similar latitude nour ishes lereabout. Wheat, barley, oats, voteh, kale, vegetables of all sorts arrays bring sure returns with Fertile Soil, 1 : , X .-. : I - iLKSffl.,.:. si ..!SI 0 bountiful harvests, but this section is principally known for its hop yards, and within sight of the town are the largest hop fields . in the' world. '- Tbe-vallev-mav be said to consist of two benches, the one being known as bottom land. This is adjacent to-' the Willamette River and overflows every season, each overflow depos iting upon the land a sediment that is far better than any commercial fertilizer known. Upon these over flow lands the greatest hop yields ever known are taken, sometimes running as high as fifteen and even twenty bales to the acre, seldom falling below six bales, twelve bales being considered a fair yield, ten bales being the average of yards that are well cared for. Hop growers Fare WelL Perhaps there is no crop taken from the soil that fluctuates more in price than hops. It is true that many hopgrowers have met with disaster caused by low prices. But the grower who conserves his re sources,' does not contract his output and takes good care of his yard is as certain or large returns tor a series of years as is the grower of any other product far better than the grain grower in the best section. Last year hops were worth around 40 cents a pound, this year the price will be perhaps well above the pres ent quotation of 25 cents. As it costs about 8 cents a pound to pro duce a "crop of, say, six bales to the acre, or say a hundred dollars an acre, it can be seen that 25 - cent hops means fortune to the grower. In the Spring of 1911 a yard of 40 acres near Independence sold for $10,200. The yield" last season, the same year, netted, above all ex penses, including interest on the in vestment, $22,700 thus paying for the land and clearing $12,500. Not so bad! And yet greater profits have been made than that on the rich Willamette bottom lands around In dependence. The shipment of hops from the Independence railway stations and boat landing some years amount to 30,000 bales. The average value per bale last year, was $80.. Can one blame the Independence people or dispute them when they claim to be the center of the most prosperous hop fields of the world f Traffic Facilities Good. Mentioning the railway station and boat landing reminds me that Independence has as good transpor tation facilities as any town in the state almost' as good as the great city of Portland. It is on the line of the Southern Pacific which runs from Portland to Corvallis,. which connects with the main Sunset Route: This road for many years was its only rail connection. Now there are three short roads running out from the town one to Airlie, one to Dallas and one to Salem. The roads are called the Independ ence & Monmouth Railway Company, the owners being Independence peo ple. Twenty-four trains a day arrive and depart over these various rail ways. Within a very short time the Hill electric road will have a branch from its Portland-Eugene line into the town and running to the timber belt to the west. But even now this LIVE TOWN IN HEmT OF RICH COUNTRY Ideal Climate and Ready road means as much to Independence as it does to Salem or Albany, for it is just across the Willamette, and a station, North Independence, can be almost reached by a free ferry. And in . addition there is the great rate' leveler water transportation, for there is a boat plying constantly be tween Independence and Portland. At present this boat goes up one day and back the next, making three round trips a week; but as soon as the Oregon City locks are made free there will be a daily service. Mentioning the free ferry, just to the east of town, reminds me that a portion of the Independence hop yards and successful farms are just across the river, in what is called the Missouri Bottom district. Here is the finest solid body of hop yards in the world over a thousand acres. I had the pleasure of looking o.ver these fields from a hop-drying house near the river, and it was a sight worth going miles to view. , Angora Goats Famous. Aside from being the center of the hop industry of Oregon, Independ ence is also well known as the place where the finest ' Angora goats and Shropshire, Cotswold and South down sheep are marketed, the grow ers having their ranches mostly to the west of the town. Toung buck lambs are in constant demand at $20 to $25 per head. Forty were shipped the day before I was there last week which brought a thousand dollars. And these little bucks were only 5 months old. The ewe lambs bring about half as much, and some of the best bucks 1 and 2 years old bring as high as $500. No attention what ever is paid to the' breeding or rais ing of common sheep. The breeders all go in for the very best, and their choice breeding stock is all import ed. All of these breeders are mak- - ing money, and the business may be said to be in its mtancy. The Angora goat is an animal of great value to the landowners about Independence, not - only for what they bring in the way of mohair, as their clip, is called, and for their in crease, but for their work as brush banishera. If some way could be discovered to make, the Angoras tackle the 6tumps, there would be nothing to the land-clearing ques tion. But as it is they clean and clear the land of all but the stumps, thus turning it into fine pasturage. The clip from an average Angora will bring about SO cents a pound, and the yield will average better than three pounds. The kids sell for about $2.50 each, and will clip some thing like two pounds. For the high grade animals there is always a good demand at a large price, making the business very profitable. Fine Hogs Are Bred. There are also many breeders of fine hogs in the immediate vicinity of Independence, the favorite breeds being Berkshire, Poland-China and Durocs. The breeders have some of the finest animals to be found in the Northwest, and the choice specimens bring very fancy prices, buyers be ing plentiful. For just "hogs" there is no better place than near Inde pendence. I saw a small "herd" of these porkers, well bred but not of fancy pediirree. Grazing on a hun dred-acre alfalfa field The owner.1 Market Combine to Attract S3id he started the bunch . last Fall with an investment of $350 in brood sows. They have run on this alfalfa ever since. Have had but little at tention and no other feed they are now worth, of course, meaning the original stock and increase, $3500. This is not guess work, for such an offer was made for the "herd" last week.. There are in the vicinity also a number of breeders of fine horses, the Percherons and Clydesdales pre dominating. Most of the work ani mals used by the landowners in their hop yards, gardens and other fields are fine animals, most of the teams being worth better than $500. I saw five teams at wprk in one hop yard that the owner told me were worth over $550 per span. But I have left what I consider the most valuable asset any section can have until the last. (And you can punctuate that sentence to make it read any way you like; it is true in any sense.) And that is'the dairy cow.' Any man who knows the a, b c's of agriculture knows that the dairy sections of any country are among the most prosperous of all, and there is no place in this country where the cow will do better for her owner than around Independence. The climate is peculiarly adapted to dairying and to the condition and milk-giving qualities of "bossie." The Winters are scarcely worth men tioning they are so mild. Just ,f rost enough to keep the blood in gocsd or der. There are no great masses of flies, mosquitoes and other pests in the Summers, no sleets and blizzards in the Winters. There is green pas turage almost the year 'round, al ways for at least eleven months of the year. Dairy Feed Varied, . Vetch, kale, alfalfa and all sorts of root crops flourish as in but few places, while corn and other necessi ties for silage do as well as in any dairy section in the West, and grain, hay, clover and native and wild grasses give large yields of splendid forage. ' "' ' . And the dairymen have fine ani mals as a rule, with the standard be ing constantly raised. Only good sires are being used the scrub cow is scarcely known around Indepen dence. And that brings me to the creamery for what would be the use in telling about the adaptability of the section for the cow unless there was a profitable market for her products The largest creamery in Oregon, perhaps in the North west, is located in Independence. Its butter output is about $1000 per day, and its product, called the "Gold Medal" butter, has a reputation sec ond to none its market covers the entire coast section. . The sale of this butter alone was over $350,000 last year, and the manufacture is slowly but surely increasing. Aside from the butter the Independence Cream ery, as its owners call it, manufac tures ice and iee cream, with both of which they supply all of the adjacent territory. I had the pleasure of visiting and inspecting this creamery last week, Homeseekers to Willamette Valley City. and for sanitary conditions it is un excelled,' while its machinery is of the very latest construction. The business has been running for twelve years, starting with a very small plant, but by fair dealing, good judg ment in marketing and the excel lence of its product it today stands at the very top of such plants on the Coast. ' . This creamery now buys from up wards of 1200 dairymen. They are not all in the immediate vicinity, it is true; but they distribute many thousands of dollars among the dairymen close to them. The cream is paid for in three ways daily at each delivery, twice a month and monthly, and checks are mailed on the minute the account is payable, or handed to the deliveryman. ' Lending System Liberal. How has this immense'' business been built upf As said, largely by fair and liberal dealing. But there is and for several years has been an other factor, and that is their sys tem of loaning money to customers for the purchase of cows. Any man of good character and worthy of credit can get the money from this creamery 'for the purchase of cows, provided he will sell the creamery his output at the market price. On this money he is given sixteen nionths' time, payable at $2.50 per month, and interest, the monthly sums being deducted from his check. The company now has about $15,000 outstanding on these contracts. "Oh, yes," the knocker will ejaculate, "they make a big profit on the sale of the cows." They do not. They have no cows for sale, never have any. The borrower lo cates the cows, the creamery man agers see that he gets good value and then pays for them. In this way they have started hundreds of peo ple on the road to prosperity and stand ready to start hundreds more. It might be well to interpolate the remark that any person wanting to go into the dairy business but having insufficient capital will finfi the managers of the ' Independence ' creamery ready to render any assist ance in their power. Many tine lor cations are nearby, the land is cheap, the roads are good for hauling in the cream, there is plenty of fuel and plenty of water, all conditions are ideal for the dairy business and the creamery people will practically start you in business. Perhaps the latter statement is too broad, for like all who loan money they expect good security. But if the man who needs the cows is of good character the cows themselves will stand for the rest. " Cow's Outpnt Is $100. It is said that the average output of a cow for the year is $100. That would be over $8 per month. One can thus see that the payment of $2.50 per month would by no means be a hardship on the borrower. He could not expect easier terms from a bank where he had good credit. There is another industry around Independence that is taking on large proportions, and that is the produc tion of poultry and eggs. . There is no better location to be found in the West for the poultryman. A small tract suitable for this business can be had at a very low figure, for one does not want the bottom land for such purpose. The climate is prac tically ideal. There is green food for the fowls the year 'round, and poul try and eggs always bring a good price right at home, or shipments can be made to Portland, which is one of tl;e best markets on the Coast. To the poor man or woman, par ticularly where there is a dependent family, the , poultry business points the way to independence. (I did not mean that as a pun. It was written with no such purpose. But it might be well for some of those wanting a home to put a capital I on indepen dence and make of the sentence a slogan.) -Independence is in the extreme eastern edge of Polk County, in which county the Willamette Valley reaches its greatest width, running, a? stated at the beginning, westward to the Coast Range of mountains. In the mountains of the county lies one of the finest belts of timber in the world, and much of this is tributary to Independence, much of it is owned by the capitalists of that town. In estimating timber it is usual to talk of it in the thousands or millions; one has to get away up into the bil-. lions in discussing the Polk forests. Another industry that is destined to make a large portion of the Willam ette Valley famous is black walnut growing, and some of the very best walnut land in the valley is close around Independence. There are many bearing trees there now, and thousands of young trees set within the last few years. This will be a profitable business in that section, for the soil and climate are wonder fully well adapted to walnut culture. Fruit Also Important. ' "Don't they raise any fruit in the Independence section t" will perhaps be the query. Oh, dear, yes. As fine as is raised in the world. No better apples are raised anywhere than those of Polk, and there are many splendid bearing orchards, and many have been recently planted. And there are no better peaches on any market than those raised there, and they have many fine peach orch ards. For loganberries, raspberries, blackberries and all the cane fruits there is no better location. And the Independence strawberries are as fa mous as they are luscious, and plenti ful in season- for both home con sumption and shipment. Why, bless your soul,' you can raise anything that does not require a tropical cli mateyin that section, and raise it to perfection. . Potatoes! Gee 1 You never saw better potatoes than are raised right around there, and the yield is very large, often well up to 750 bushels per acre. All sorts of vegetables, aa mentioned before, thrive in the In dependence set ion. But here is the point and stick a pin iu it; the Independence country is not a one-crop section by a jugfnlL They do not put all of their eggs-in M Mil one basket then break the basket and go "broke." Even a total loss of their greatest money-makinsr crop does not cause widespread disaster like a failure in a wheat section, a short fruit crop does not bring ruin. It is the diversity of interests that makes of it an ideal section for those now there and for the homeseeker to consider. , People on Land Needed. How about the town of Indepen dence? It is true that this pagre is published at the request of the busi ness men of Independence, through their commercial club, the Indepen dence Commercial Club. "But, Ben nett," said the sponsors for the ar ticle, "we do not want to invite peo ple to come to our town to make a home with us we want you to tell them the truth about our lands and see if we cannot get a few hundred good families to come and make homes thereon and prosper with us. We do not need any more preachers, lawyers, doctors, or merchants, bank ers, laborers or any other class to fill up-' the town. We want people on the land and now is the time for them to fome, for land is cheaper now than it will ever be again." But I must say a few words about the town nevertheless, for there may be some who are looking for a town or city in which to pass the balance of their days or in which to live and educate their children. Or there may he some persons who read this arti cle who would not care to go to a section where there were not good church, school, banking and business facilities close at hand. I can say to all such that Independence is a splendid, moral, decent, cleanly and beautiful little city. First, there are four churches, a fine public school, two strong banks, one of the very best high schools in the state, wide paved streets, a good sewer system, cement curbs and walks, a beautiful city park, as good a water supply as any city can have, one of the best hotels in the West. I doubt if any town of its size in the country has a better hotel than the Hotel Lorena, the fine new hos telry lately opened there. It is large, modern in every way, and is splen didly conducted. Second Newspaper Comes. There is one good newspaper, the Independence Enterprise, and with in the month there will be a second, the plant being now installed. This will be called the Independence Bea con Light, and it will be in able hands. There is one of the best and" most modern bakeries to be found anywhere, also an up-to-date steam laundry, and the stores of all sorts carry very large and well - selected stocks. You can do about as well shopping there as in Portland. Of course there are garages, livery barns, blacksmith and machine shops and all such business establishments as one finds in all prosperous places. Monmouth, at the west, is almost a suburb of Independence. It is less than a mile between the corporate limits. And here the only normal school of the 6tate is located, mak ing educational advantages of the town still greater. Independence is a city of delight ful homes. ' The lawns and hedges are most beautiful, the roses and other flowers as fine as Portland can boast, which is the highest praise I know how to bestow. The streets are wide and level aDd just on the west flows the beautiful Wil lamette ! Oh, if you are looking for an ideal homesite, you must see In dependence before you locate. From Portland south through the wonderful Willamette Valley the trip is an enjoyable one, if you have a love for the beautiful as Nature creates her works. At the present time the best way to get there is via the Southern Pacific, by which you can reach Independence by two trains from the Union Depot each day, one in the morning and one in the evening. By the electric road the connections are not as yet per fected, but a return by that road is easily made by taking a boat at the Independence wharf for the station a mile or so north. The fare from Portland is $1.75 each way, or some thing less by the round trip. And if you want to see as fine a section of country, and one of the most prosperous, that you ever rested your eyes upon, take a trip up through the valley to Independence and stop there or near there for the balance of your life, if you are wise. A letter addressed to the Inde pendence Commercial Club, Indepen dence, Oregon, will bring you by re turn mail any further information you may request, and anything this club reports can be relied upon. It has no lands for sale, but can no doubt point you to various tracts, large and small, suitable for any business you wish to engage in. The capitalist can get good bar gains; the frugal, industrious, am bitious homeseeker, with but a few buadred dollars, can do likewise. J H: 107.2