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About Morning Oregonian. (Portland, Or.) 1861-1937 | View Entire Issue (Sept. 27, 1900)
10 THE MOBfflNG OREGONlAff, TpOTREAy, EPTEMBffK 27, 1900. Tl ART OF EMBROIDERY AND UNMAKING (Copyright, 1900, by Seymour Eaton.') TfifcOREGONIAN'S HOME STUDY CIRCLE: DIRECTED Bt PROF. SEYMOUR EATON HISTORIC STUDIES IN HOME FURNISHING BY MARGARET AINSLEE. Lace, that '"most poetic or all textile tissues," has the peculiar charm of In tensifying the beauty "which it seems to veil. As a fantastic adjunct of dress it has, therefore, appealed strongly to the courts distinguished for their love of per sonal decoration; and as it is of compar atively modern development, having come Into vogue as Jate as the early 16th century, its history is easily .studied. "Lacls, or darned netting, and cut or drawn threadwork, are but the transition al forms between em broidery and lace- work proper closely allied (so that ' one seems but an in genious variation oi the other). Lace, in its perfected stage differs from embroid ery which postulates a foundation in that i ; It is a textile fabric in itself, both pat tern and ground be inc devised by the I laqeworker. Hand- j made lace is divlsl- blc into two branches, J named from the method of construc 1 1 o n needlepoint and pillow laccmak- , lng. The former method involves the employment of a needle which loops a continuous thread in to various shapes ana patterns, thus creat ing a dainty, sculp Sampler "With. Squares of Outwork. turesque effect of gentle relief. The other method pro duces a softer blend ing of ornamental effects by means of twisting or braiding together a number of separated threads wound around the heads of lengthened bobbins and fastened In -a row upon the cushion or pillow which gives it its name. In its original form it is closely allied to the reticulated weaving or fringe knotting of ancient peoples. In Its present form it is said to have been invented in the Netherlands, where it is still one of the chief indus tries. The art of lacemaking has been followed by women of all classes, providing a graceful pastime for court ladles and an additional sustenance for the peasants, 300.000 of whom in France today eke out L livelihood by this means. As early as the 15th century various complicated 6tltcheries, interlacing devices and de signs for Indented borders were eagerly sought after; and when the art of engrav ing and mqdes of printing made it pos sible for books of needlework patterns to supersede the samplers which had been insufficient to meet the demand, lace making became a specialized industry and assumed a more Independent individual it'. Fashion, through the Introduction of the Medici collar into the French court, soon stimulated the making of lace edges in large quantities. In spite of poetic satire and slighting prose, men and wom en continued to wear these curious stiff ened collars, some of which were a quar ter of a yard deep, with 12 lengths in each triple-staged ruff, all edged with Portrait of a Courtier o the Period of Lonls XIII. (After Abraham Bosse.) narrow lace. Contemporary writers stlg raatlzed them as "gadrooned like organ pipes, contorted or crinkled like cabbages and as big as the sails of a windmill." Tet people of high degree persisted in wearing them, the Londoners contemptu ously terming the collar "the French 1 ruff." while the Parisians Invariably al luded to it as "the English monster." Catherine de Medici, who introduced the fashion, Imported from Italy a court ruff snaker, to whom she accorded the sole right of making these trappings. Her son, Henry HI. having been trained from childhood with a lively taste for Italian affectations, became so punctilious about his ruffs that, rather than see them limp and Irregular, he would launder and goffer both cuffs and collars himself. Men even more than women adopted the wearing of lace, and thus contributed largely to the making of designs of a dis tinctly artistic character. Eventually lace figured so largely in the enrichment of court attire that not only great flat col lars', turned-hack cuffs, doublets, gloves and breeches were overloaded with cloudy fabrics, but even boots were so adorned. "What wonder that when Henry IV con templated starting a silkworm nursery his Minister. Sully, with Huguenot aus terity, exclaimed: "You want iron and soldiers, not laces and silks to trick out fops!" The exaggerated use ot laces spread from articles of clothing to fur nishings, beds, canopies, curtains, even the windows of traveling coaches were so enveloped with these priceless, filmy fab rics that Henry TV passed sumptuary dicts endeavoring to restrict the absurd Fragment ot Point d'AIencon Lnce. (Early period of Louis XVI.) 1 outlay upon "glltterings and gildings." Nobles nevertheless continued to bring themselves to bankruptcy In their efforts to secure the greatest number of lace novelties, one courtier possessing nearly 400 lace-trimmed collars and cuffs. Louis XIIL therefore, strove still more forcibly 'Mm U-lJLP fMWm f to lessen extravagance by promulgating a severe edict known as the "regulation as to superfluity In costume." A carica ture of the grief caused by this edict Is shown in the illustration from, an engrav ing by Abraham Bosse. Iiouls-XTV, on the contrary, did all that he could to develop the Jace Industry In France. He sent lacemakers' daughters to the Venetian convents for instruction, and It was not long before the excellent results were 'shown in the Justly cele brated "points de France," which touched the highest point possible to needlepoint lacrs. The wild caprices In lacemaking which distinguished succeeding reigns never surpassed the truly artistic work achieved, without regard to cost or trouble, under the protection of the grand monarque. Thus, from a stiff, wiry-looking trlm- I rnlnj?, lace, passing from stage to stage, Point d'Argrentan. (Modern manufacture.) became "more dainty and filmy in appear ance, geometrically planned patterns giv ing away to flower and scroll designs, which in turn were superseded by grace ful, fantastic effects bordering upon real istic' representation. Machine-made laco was brought to an advanced stage of perfection during the latter part of the 18th century, menacing pillow-made lace more than needlepoint, which gained the public favor and reached its artistic cli max in the early 17th century, 100 years before the bobbin lace enjoyed the same degree of favor. Belgium, through Its trade with England, has Infused this Cushion and Bobbin for Lacemaking. Pillow method with certain technical character istics never yet surpassed. "While It would be quite Impossible to study the many kinds of lace now on tile market, there arc certain well-known hand-made laces which will always be In demand, and which every Intelligent woman should, therefore, recognize at sight. When Louis XIV Introduced the art of Venetian needlepoint into the various in significant lace centers . of France, the most brilliant results came from the Alen con royal center, whose lacemakers showed exceptional talent In adapting themselves to the subtle developments In troduced by the. King's artists. That Alencon still holds herself worthy of her illustrious past may be Inferred by com paring the Illustrations of the point d Alencon of the 18th and 19th centuries. The beautiful Venetian laces copied by the French schools are classed under the general head of-guipures de Venlse. Or iginally the term guipures implied a filigree work stiffened with a gimp or wire, bent into designs and joined by fancy stitches; gradually the term was extended to all laces made with bars which distinguished them from those having small meshes classified as "dentelles." The finished crlspness and firmness of outline of the Venetian guipures were attained by cast ing minute stitches over horsehair. It Is said that once when the lacemakers of Venice were striving to make for Louis XIV a collar (valued at $300) which should surpass In marvelous delicacy all previous specimens of their handiwork, they were not satisfied with the fineness of the ordinary horsehair and used instead their own hair. The classic home of the mod ern guipure is In the Auvergne. Here more than" 130,000 women live In great sim plicity, and by their versatility in using Part of Flounce of Kcnmare Lace (Ireland) Flat and Slightly Raised Needlepoint Lace. threads of flax, silk, wool, Angora rabbit and goat's hair have made their mountain retreat one of the most important local lacemaklngs In the world. During the greater part of this century they have been making rich black guipure of heavy silk thread. Probably the French lace most widely known because of its plentiful imitation is that of Valenciennes, made in the French town of that namo since the 15th century. It did not, however, acquire a distinctive appellation until .the 18th cen tury, and has not been made In Valen clnnes since the revolution. The stylo of lace always Identified with this name is now made In a small frontier town of France where a museum of laces has been established. Valenciennes lace is also made In two provinces In Belgium, where convent girls, spinsters and widows form themselves Into lacemaking com munities. This lace Is one of the oldest pillow-made laces and Is distinguished T)y a softness and flatness formed by very regularly plaited meshes of the same kind of thread used in the floral design It is differentiated from Mechlin, a pillow made lace very popular In England, be cause of a similar lightness and pleasinir effect, by the lack of cordonnets or out lining threads. The absence of anv threadwork in the nature of relief ren ders Valenciennes lace partlcularlj- flex ible and suitable for laundering. For these reasons It was particularly prized for the lingerie of the great ladles of the 18th century. Another lace very popular In France. Brussels point or point d'Angleterre, was made In Flanders and sold in England. The English so greatly appreciated the Flemish laces that for a time they mon opolized the wearing of them and ex pended such immense sums upon foreign m&g&'3iM 18H?sr. Y . est PWSMmFi 2dESm PSfS&J-SSfl sS&llSaild f'Wy'sywi mijuemwimjzs. BIncIc Silk Guipure. point that Parliament was obliged to pass sumptuary laws, protecting Che man ufacture of-English bone lace and pro hibiting the importation of foreign laces. The court of Charles II immediately nro- I ceeded to evade this edict by smuggling1 In the richest laces In the Belgian mar ket under the name of English point, an appellation coined for the purpo3B. The Flemish laccworkers Invited to sottlfc In England were not able to produce a fine tiunllty of lace because they could not sequre the necessary flax, so the point was thereafter made In Brussels under the English name. The Invention of machines for making fine nets gave in 1SS0 a new impulse to the application of floral ornament upon tulle. In this why shawls and bridal veils of great beauty could be made at a comparatively; lowt'r price. Charming varlatlonsi of the Bm sels pillow-made applications are ob tained by a combination with needle point. Equally popular among the motl ern Belgian laces Is the Duchesse gulpurd An English plllow-madc lace similar to Brussels in fabrication is the Honlton. Great care Is given to the flower sprigs or separate ornaments, which are worked separately and originally joined together by small bars, which have developed Into a kind of guipure effect. Note This study will be continued" on Tuesday, October 2. DAILY CITY STATISTICS. Real Estate Transfers. Henry "Western-re and wife to "Will iam G. Pangbum, lot L block 4, Center Addition, September 28 $1000 Augusta M. Spurrier and husband to U. S. Fidelity & Guaranty Co.. lots L 3, 3, 4, 5, 7 and 8, block 7, Clover dalo Extension, July 12 1 Same to same NE. VL section 36, T. 20 S., R. 25 R. July 12 1 D. H. Deardorff to Mrs. A. Krieeel, lot3 4 and 13. block 6;lots l'and 2, block 7, Glencoe Park. September 22. BOO' 3. "W. Moffit and wife to John Young er, lot 14. block 6, Kenilworth, Sep tember 19 300 Emily Blols Dubois to Henry Fassen bender. W. lota 1 and 2, block 38, "Wheeler's Addition, September 20.. 1000 Arthur "Wilson, administrator C. F. Daniels' estate, to W. J. Peddicord, Into 1Q yA 0.1 O Mnnlr 10 Dv.t.. mouth Vlila Extended, September 17. J. P. Marshall and wife to Ainsworth 50 National Bank. W. 85 feet of lot 5, block 95, Carter's Addition, Septem ber 16 4 1 Sheriff, for J. P. Marshall, trustee, et al., to J. C. Ainsworth, lots 2 and 12, block 2; lot 1. block 3; lots 7 and 13. Mock 4; lot 11. block 5; lots 6 and 7, block 6; lot 3, block 7: lot 2. block 9; lot 5, block 13; lot 12. block 14; lots 14 and 15, block 15: lots 6 and 13. block 17: lot 3. block IS: lots 2 and 13, block 19; lot 11, block 20. and lot 13, block 22. Lincoln Park, Septem ber 25 -. 1260 L. L. Hawkins to Ainsworth National Bank, lots 2, 3. 2S and 32, block 8; lots 1, 2, 5. 6, 7 and 9, block 9; lots 3, 5 and 6. block 11; lots 11. 13, 14 and 15, block 5. Orchard Homes. July 7, -1896 1 Same to sime undivided one-half of tract In section 17, T. 1 S.. -R. 1 E., containing 15 acres; also 5 acres sec tion 17, T. 1 s.. B. 1 la; a.3t acres same, July 7, 1896 1 R. H. Holmes and wife to Mlla Cul ver, lot 1, block 103, East Portland, September 8 15S0 Mlla Culver to C. H. Dye. September 23 , 1750 Mttry Riley to John Anderson, 2 acres Powell's Valley roid. Section 12, T. 1 S.. R. 2 E., July 26 1 80 Samuel Swanson to Charles E. Ash man, lot 7, block 24, "Woodlawn, Sep tember 22 1 Building: Permit. George W. Bates, two-story dwelling, Kerby street, between Russell and Knott; $2300. Births. September 20 Girl, to wife of Frank Rumelln, 129'GIbbs street. September 23 Girl, to wife of Percy "W. Lewis, 915 Kelly street. September 22 Boy, to wife of A. J. Brault. 231 Chapman street. September 24-rBoy, to wife "of A, Fochtner, 600 Front street. s September 23 Girl, to wife of T. G. H. Kcndlg, 565 East Couch street. September 13 Boy,, to wife of Russell P. Hunter, 235 Fifth street Deaths. September 21 Samuel Smith, St Vin cent's Hospital; corrosive poisoning. September 23 Oscar Landean, Alaska dock; drowning. September 23 Chow Lun Sheny, Josh House; septlcama. September 24 Moses Hochfeld, 231 Grant street; typhoid fever. September 25 Marguerette Marsell, Good Samaritan Hospital. Contusions Diseases. Mrs. Howard, Fourteenth and Gleason; measles. Woman and the Ballot. PORTLAND, Sept. 22. (To the Editor.) An editor who Is not partlculaily friend ly to the -rights of women, cries out in alarm because certain, political Influences have been set to work in some states to intimidate voters, and he indignantly expresses himself thus: "Reader, stop and think, how would you like to have some man dictate to, you how you should vote? I don't care what your potties may be, how would you like it?" Some of the women of this country would like to ask this editor and his fol lowers a 'question: "How would you like to have some man dictate to you that you should not vote at all? And how would you like It if not only one man, but a body of men, a Government, should pro nounce this ultimatum to you?" And all this, notwithstanding the fact that you are a taxpayer and a wage earner, that you are amenable to the law, and that you live under a Government which Is said to "derive its just powers from he consent of the governed?" . How would you like It, Mr. Editor? "Whatever your politics may be, how would you like it? In 37 states today a married mother has no right to her own children. In 16 states a wife has no right to her own earnings outside the home. 1 In eight states a wife has no right to her own property after marriage. In seven states there Is no law compell ing a man to support his wife and family. In all the states (except the four In which women are voters) there Is dis crimination against women in the matter of employment and compensation. Such conditions In the closing days of the nineteenth century show that there Is still work for women to do and that thoy cannot safely tuBt all to the men. ABIGAIL SCOTT DUNIWAY. "Greedy Commercialism." A "Western Congressman seemed to hit tho nail on the head recently when he said: I had supposed, until the present cam paign, that It was to the credit of any party or Administration to extend com merce and secure foreign markets. Ac cording to Mr. Bryan, this is "greedy commercialism." "We are an agricultu ral Nation, raising more of agricultural products than we consume; we are a large manufacturing Nation, becoming more so every day, manufacturing more than our home markets require. This being so, I believe it Is the clear duty of tho Government to extend our commerce and seek foreign markets wherever we can. By pursuing this policy, we will pre vent stagnation at home and will keep our people steadily employed. It Is More Important. Des Moines Leader. The money question Is more Important than the colonial one, and" there Is more reason for hoping that tho President will become right on . the .imperialism issue than there is that Mr. Bryan will become right on the money Issue. ' A Stndy in Colors. St. Louis Globe-Democrat. In 1896 Colonel Bryan predicted pale faced penury and hollow-eyed famine. This year the country is being devas tated by rgd-halred'imperlallsm "and blue coated militarism. ' A BRYAN -CROKER DIAL CABINET OFFICER PItdiaiSE FOR NEW TOnK. Murphy- for the Navy and. Federal Patronagfe tor the Boss In He turn tot 92,000,000. Up to a very recent- period It was be lieved that the Damocrat'.c boss of Now York politics, Richard Croker, now more than ever the autocrat of the Democratic machine in New York since he knocked Hill out of tho ring, was Insincere. In his pretended support of Bryan. But within the last 10 day's It has become manifest that Croker has, by some means, been ardently enlisted on the 'side of the Ne braska boy, and that he is doing his ut most to secure for Bryan the electoral vote of New York, At first his change of front was generally received with such incredulity that The Oregonlan did not think it wcrth while to p.int the startling stories which came from; New York on this subject, but they havo been con firmed by such a"n accumulation as to leave no doubt that Croker Is fighting with all his energies and with all tho powerful means at his command to carry the State of New York for Bryan. How his conversion to the cause of Bryan was brought about has been the subject of a number of dispatches ftom New York to the Chicago Times-Herald and Chicago Record, which substantially agree as to the main facts, the latest phase of which Is embodied In this dis patch of September 19 to the former pa per: Political equation has been reduced to a science by Richard Croker, and '"William Jennings Bryan. Their solution 1st From Tammany's Boss. Campaign fund of $2,000,000 with which to carry New York State for the Ne braskan and a promise to obtain such victory. Contribution of $100,000 to the Demo cratic National campaign fund. Mr. Bryan's Quid Pro lno. Promise of the Secretaryship of ,the Navy, in case President McKlnley Is de feated, to ex-Senator Edward Murphy, Jr.,, Mr. Croker's bosom friend. Promise, under like conditions, that Mr. Croker shall be the undisputed dispenser of Federal patronage In New York State. Such are the positive statements of knowing politicians In this city. They are given as the reasons for Mr. Cro ker's sudden conversion to active interest in Mr. Bryan's election. The story as revealed is one of political ambition and cupidity, of open bargain and sale, with a little dash of vengeance thrown in. Incidentally, the story explains the sud den development of unpleasantness be tween Mr. Croker and Thomas C. Piatt, the two opposing bosses, who usu ally manage to remain the best of friends. Since Mr. Croker has begun to fight Senator Piatt out In the state the latfer has been charging Tammany's chief with levying the biggest campaign tribute ever known on the saloon and dis reputable resorts of New York City. Mr. Croker has retorted by calling Senator Piatt an "old liar." The story of the Croker-Bryan deal in political futures Is of National Interest. About a month ago National Vice-Chairman William J. Stone came to New York to look over the ground and have heart- to-hcaft talks with Eastern, leaders; Messrs. Croker and Hill and Gorman and Murphy were all either quarreling or sulking, and between them the party was in a bad way. Mr. Stone quickly picked out Mr. Croker as the man without whose aid It would be futile t6 attempt to carry New York State. .. The National-committee had no j funds with which to make a fight, and, the Empire State leaders were indifferent as to whetlier Mr- Bryan' was elected or not Messrs. Stone and Croker talked long and frequently. Mr. Stone made several trips to Elberon, on the Jersey coast, where Mrs. Murphy, In -her Summer 'cot tage, was "actively planning how to get her husband Into Mr. Bryan's Cabinet. If such a body should ever' be called Into being." The Murphys and the Crokers are the best of friends, and soon Mrs. Mur phy was laboring to wake up Mr. Croker to the need of Democratic victory In New York. But always and ever Mr. Stone had to face Mr. Croker's practical ques tion: "What 1b there for us in the Presiden cy?" Mr. Croker pointed out In substance that with Willis J. Abbott, Mr. Bryan's closest friend at the Chicago headquar ters, slated for the place of Secretary to the President, Tammany could hardly hope to fare well with New York Federal patronage, for Mr. Abbctt had fought the organization long and hard In this city. "Suppose." suggested Mr. Stone, finally, "Mr. Bryan should promise to give tho Federal offices In Greater New York to Tammany? What, then?" "I would believe Bryan's promise," was Mr. Croker's reply. "But we want not only the Federal offices here, but also a member of the Cabinet We want the Secretaryship of the Navy for Edward Murphy." The proposition having reduced itself to definite terms, Mr. Stone became busier than over. First he communicated with Chairman Jones. Then a conference with Mr. Bryan In Chicago was arranged. Messrs. Johnson and Campau went there, too. All the other leaders labored to make It plain, to Mr. Bryan that without Mr. Croker's assistance New York could not be won, and that without material con sideration, Mr. Croker would not carry New York. Mr. Bryan protested, but sur rendered. Then Mr. Stone hurried back to New York and opened the "Eastern headquar ters." Mr. Croker agreed to make his end good by raising $2,000,000 for the New York fight and by giving $100,000 to the National' committee. He also began pub licly to announce his bets on Mr. Bryan's success. Then Tammany began to apply the screw wherever cash could, be raised. The picking of. ex-Senator Murphy for the Secretaryship of the Navy has a sep arate story behind it. His brother-in-law, Captain, Daniel Delehanty, was recently retired from the 'Navy, after a conflict with Admiral Crownlnshleld , and other bureau officers. He tried to prevent his being sent out on sea duty, instead of being kept as Governor of the Sailors' Snug Harbor. The Captain preferred vol untary retirement to leaving his snug berth on shore. He worked up his sister, Mrs. Murphy, she her husband, and her husband Mr. Croker, to enter Into a scheme for vengeance, one of the features of whloh is placing Mr. Murphy where he wants to be. In the Cabinet, and let ting Captain Delehanty pull the -wires from concealment ' The Imbrosrllo at "Life. Myrtle Point Enterprise. A man's life Is full of crosses and temp tations. He comes Into this world without hla consent, .goes out against his will, and-tho trip, between the two extremities is exceedingly rocky. The mle.of contra ries is one of the important features of Ihfr trip. When he is little the big girls kiss him, and when he Is big the little girls kiss him. If he raises a large fam ily he is a chump, but if he raises a small' heck he is a thief and fraud, and Is shunned like a Chinaman with the seven year Itch. If he is poor he is a bad roan- ager; if he's rich, he's dishonest; if ho don t give for charity, he's a stingy cuss and lives only for himself; if he dies young, there was a great future ahead .of him; if he lives to an old age, he has missed his, calling. He is Introduced into this world, by a doctor, and to the next world by the same process. The road is ,rocky, but man likes to travel it. A little medicine o,h right kind, taken at the right time, is invaluable. That moans Carter's Little Idver Pills, and take them now. DfeMEBCES joiderMe3ica Discovery "I had suffered from indigestion, and only those who have suffered from it know what it really is," writes Mrs. M. J. Fagan, of 1613 East Genesee Street, Syracuse, N. Y. "I had severe attacks of headache and dizziness with cold hands and feet; everything I ate distressed me, bowels were consti pated, and I was growing very thin and nervous. I cannot half ex press the bad feelings I had when I commenced taking Dr. Pierce's Golden Medical Discovery. I took nine bottles of the ' Discovery ' and several bottles of the 'Pellets. I commenced feeling better with the first bottkj and kept on improving. Now I am so greatly improved in health my friends often speak of it. I most heartily recommend those medicines to all suffering as I was.", for diseases of thejtomacli Hoodjierves and Lungs. i Use it in nlace of lard f and butter only half as much n KMAA W OW4;o, Pure Healthful. Ask your grocer or write i India Refining Co. l Phtladelnhln. P ftrTMMYT Yiore of the Denial Chair TEETH EXTRACTED AND FELLED AlJ SOUTEL.T WITHOUT PAIN, by our lata 3lfcntlno method applied to the rums. No slMp-produclng aeonta or cocaine. Thoje are tho only dental parlora In Port land having- PATENTED APPLIANCES and Ingredients to extract. All and apply gold crowns and porcolaln crowns undetectable from natural teeth, and warranted for 10 years. "WITHOUT THE LEAPT PAIN. Full set of teeth, 5, a perfect fit guaranteed qr no pay. Gold crowns. $5. Gold nlllnjs, tl. 811 rer flUlnss, 60e. All worlc done by GRADU ATE DENTISTS of from 12 to 20 years ex perlence. and each department In cnarse of a specialist. Give us a call, and you will nnd us to do exactly as we advertise. We will tell you In advanoe exactly what your work will cost by a FREE EXAMINATION. SET TEETH . . . GOLD CROWNS , ........... $5.00 $ 0.01 GOLD FILLINGS ,...?1.O0 JULVER. FILLINGS JS0 N0 PLATES New York Dental Parlors MAIN OFFICE: Fourth and Morrison sts.. Portland. Or. HOURS-a to 8; SUNDATS. 10 TO 4. BRANCH OFFICES : T23 Market st.. San Francisco, CaJ. AU drat -va.. Seattle. Wash. I will guarantee that my JtJneuniatisni Cure will relieve lum bago, sciatica and all rheumatic pains in two or three hours and cure in a few days. MUNTON. At all druggists, 25c. a rial. GuWe to Health and medi cnl advice free. 1505 Arch st.. Phila, Impaedfafefy and causes thick, clossy hale- to nip plant the former thin, brittlo growth. NewbroG Herpicido performs its trork on tho principle, "Destroy tho cansoyou romovo tho effect," and consequently it reaches and k"ls oft tho ovcr-husy microbo which la responsible for all scalp dis easo3. It thus makes dandruff and falling hair i-npoosiblo, and promotes a luxuriant Growth of hair that soon becomes tho prldo of tho owner. Eron onbaldcpots lb soon produces hair aa thick and luxuriant as onyono could Triflhfpr. Ono bottlo will conrinco that It is too only hair restorer that really restores. For S&ie-by all First-Class Drug Stores. i Economy j : in the use of -KSSrtiw f-Sro r'-Ri JX-XT-wrii mMWfZhMMZ' no. - ' a a ' vmi i E3 iz.v. ronm 2 p.m. 23a72 . Rftgim. rmmT,v . wm. -! I Believes SSosadmff 1 I ' I TRAVELERS' GUIDE. Im If lis! ! 11 1- i 11 f m m nh i Unlda. Depot, Sixth and J Streets. THREE TRAINS DAILY FOR ALL POINTS EAST "CHICAGO-PORTLAND SPECIAL." Leaves for the East., via Huntington, at 9:00 A. M.; arrives at 4:30 P. M. SPOKANE FLYER, For Spokane. Eastern "Washington, and Great Northern points, leaves at S P. M. : arrives at 7 A. M. ATLANTIC EXPRESS. Leaves for the East, via Huntlnston, at 9.O0 P. M.; arrives at 8:40 A, M. through pullman and tourist sleepers. ocean And river schedule. Water lines schedule, subject to change with out notice. OCEAN DIVISION Steamships sail from Alntworth Dock at 8 P. Ml Leave Portland- Stale of California. Tuesday, Sept. 4; Friday. J Sept. 14; Monday. Sept. 21; Thursday, Oct. 4: I Sunday. Oct. 14. Columbia. Sunday, Sept. Or I "Wednesday. Sept. 10: Saturday. Sept. 20; Tues I dar, Oct. 0. ' From San Francisco Leaving- Spear-Street Pier No. 24. Snn Francisco, at 11 A. M.. as follows: Columbia. Wednesday, Sept. 5; Sat- I urday. Sept. 15; Tuesday. Sept. 25: Friday, jci. u; Aionaay. uct. IB. State of uamornia. Monday. Sept. 10: Thursday. Sept. 20; Sunday. Sept. 30: Wednesday, Oct. 10. COLU3IBIA RIVER DIVISION. PORTLAND AND ASTORIA. i Steamer Hassalo leaves Portland dally, ex cept Sunday, at 8:00. P. M.; on Saturday at 10:00 P. M. Returnlnff. leaves Astoria dally, except Sunday, at 7:00 A. M. "WILLAMETTE RIVER DIVISION. PORTLAND AND SALEM. OR. Owlnr to the low Tater In the Willamette the boats are unable to ascend further than the mouth of the Yamhill. For schedule sea below: YAMHILL RIVER ROUTE. PORTLAND AND DAYTON. OR. Steamer Ruth, for Oregon City. Buttevllle, Champocr. Dayton and way landings, leaves Portland Tuesdays. Thursdays and Saturdays at 7:00 A. M. Leaves Dayton for Portland and way rolnts Mondays. Wednesdays and Fridays at 0:00 A. M. SXAKE RIVER ROUTE. RIPARIA. WASH.. AND LEWISTON. IDAHO. Steamer Lewlston leaves Rlrarla Sept. 1 and every other day at 3:40 A. M. for Lewlston. Returning- leaves Lewlston Sept. 2 and every other day at 7:00 A. M.. arriving at Rlparla same evcnlnc W. H. HUr.LBURT. General Passenger Agent. V. A. SCHILLING. City Tfcket Agent. Tilephono Main 712. SO Third St., cor. Oak. NcwSie;iiiisliipL;netotlicOneit CHINA AND JAPAN. FROM PORTLAND. In connection with THE OREGON RAILROAD & NAVIGATION CO. Schedule. 1000 (subject to chancre): Steamer. Due to leave Portland. "MONMOUTHSHIRE" Sept. 0 "BRAEMAR" Sept. 30 For rates, accommodations, etc.. apply to DODWELL COMPANY. Ltmlted. General Agent', Portland. Or. To principal points In Japan and China. EAST WA SOUTH Leave? Depot Fifth and I Streets. Arrive OVERLAND EX. PRESS TRAINS. for "inlcm. Rose burs. Ashland. Sac ramento. Ogden. San Francisco. Mq Jave. Los Angeles. El Paso. New Or leans and the East. At Woodbura (dally except Sun day), morning train connects with train for Mt. Anjrel. Sll verton. Erown- vllle. Springfield and Natron, and evening train for Mt. Angel and Sli ver ton. Albany passenger Corvallls passenger. Sheridan pas'gr 8:30 P. M. 8:30 A. M. 7:45 A. JL '6:30 P. M. 4:00 P. M. 7:30 A. M. 114:50 P. M. 10:10 A.M. 5:50 P. M. 8:25A. M. Dally. llE&lly excopt Sunday. Rebate tickets on sale between Portland. Sac ramento and San Francisco. Net rates $17 first clash and ?11 second class, including sleeper. Rates and tickets to Eastern points and Eu rope. Also JAPAN. CHINA. HONOLULU and AUSTRALIA. Can be obtained from J. B. KIRKLAND, Ticket Agent, 140 Third streot. YAMHILL DIVISION. Passenger Depot, foot of Jefferson streot Leave for Oswego dally at 7:20. 0:40 A. M.; 12:30. 1:55. 3:25. 4:40. 0:25. 8:30, 11:30 P. M.; and 0:00 A. M. on Sundays only. Arrive at Portland dally at 0:35 8:30. 10:C0 A. M.; 1:35. 3:10, 4:30. 0:15. 7:40, 10:00 P. M.: 12:-i0 A. M. dally, except Monday. 8:30 and 10:05 A. M. on Sundays only. Leave for Dallas dairy, except Sunday, at 5:05 P. M. Arrive at Portland at 0:30 A. M Passenger train leaves Dallas for Alrltc Mon days, "Wednesdays and Fridays at 2:45 P. M. Roturns 'Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays. Except Sunday. R. KOEHLER. Manager. C H. MARKHAM. Gen. Frt. & Pass. Apt. DOUBLE DAILY TRAIN SERVICE. The Pioneer Dlnlns: and Obaervatlon Car Route. Union Depot, 6th ail JSti North Coast Limited. For Tacoma. ricattle. North i aklma. ouo Icane. Pullman. Mos cow, Lewlston. Rosj- lond. U. c. Uuii. Helena. St. Puul. Min neapolis, (jnicaco. Hoy ton. New York and all points East and south east. Twin City Express, for Tacoma. Seattle. Spo kane, Helena. Bvite, 3t. Paul. Chicago. Bos No. 3 8 P.M. ton. New York. Omaha. Kansas City. Council Hluffs. St. Louis, and all points east and southeast. Through train servico Tl Northern Pacific and Burllnston lino from Portland to Omaha. Kansas uiiy, ti. ui3. viuick urns and un equaled accommodations. lake North Coast Limited Train No. 2 for South Rend. Olympia and Gray's Raroor points. Se the North Coast Ltmlted. EJerant Uv bolstered Tourist Sleeping Cars. Pullman Standard Sleepers. Dlnlnc Car and Observa tion Car. all electric lighted. Solid vestibuled trains. Tlckrtn sold to 0,11 points In tho United States and Canada, and bagsago checked ta destination ot tickets. For Information. tlrVets. sleeping-car i-mct-rations, etc.. call on or write A. D. CHARLTON Assistant General Pnaaencer Aprent. SSo Morrison St.. Cor. Third, Portland, Oregon. ' WHITE COLLAR LINE liAILET GATZnr.T fAIder-street Dock) Lea'es Portland dally every morning at 7 o clock, except Sunday. Returntng. leaven As toria every night at 7 o'clock except Sunday, "ajon phono Main 351. Columbia uhon .t ht SUNSET -n O CGKHSSHASIA UnV routes JnJ Arrlvo KMR$i5iVl no. l- IPgsaralfti- 7A.M. '"iilB TRAVELERS GUIDE. POSSIBLY YOU ARE NOT AWARE OF THE FAST TIME AND SUPERB SERVICE Now offered by tii 0?SfV WE HAV 9 DAILY FAST TRAINS L TO THE EAST 2 If you cannot take the morning rain, travel via the evening train. Both- finely equipped. "Our Specialties" " Fast Time Through Service PULLMAN PALACE SLEEPERS, PULLMAN TOURIST SLEEPERS, S. ui.Ij."uaxv uirviiita. LIBRARY (CAFE) CAR AND PRES RECLINING CHAIR CARS. Ilonrn In Time Saved to Omaha, Chlcnjro, Kansas City. St. Loul. Kerr York. Ronton. And Other En.stern Points. Tickets eood via Salt Lake City and Denver. It 1? to your Interest to use THE OVER LAND ROUTE. Tickets and sleeplnc-car berths can be secured from GEO. LANG, City Pass, nnd Ticket Agent. J. H. LOTHKOP. General Agent. 135 Third St.. Portland. Or. Colorado In September. September Is the ploasanteat month In the Colorado year. Tlio days are bright, but not enervating. The nights are cool. Tb.e mountains look their grandest. Beat of all. the Summer's rush Is over and the hotels at Glenwood, Colorado Springs. A'anitou and Denver are not overcrowded. Good idea to vary things and go East thro' Colorado. You'll en joy It- specially the 40-mlle-an-hour ride on the Burlington's Chicago Specl-J. Only one night on the road, Denver to Chicago and St. Louis. TICKET OFFICE" Cor. Third and Stark Sts. R. TV. FOSTER. City Ticket Agent. w.r'WW' mmm 100 HOURS Ocean to Ocean Via THE IMPERIAL LIMITED . Grand Scenery. Fast Time. Model Accommodation. Tourist and First-Class Sleeping Cars. TO ROSTOV JIOXTREAL TORONTO OTTAWA ST. PAUL For full particulars apply to II II. ABDOTT. Agent. UC Third stroat. Portland. OT. E. J. COYLE. Asst. Gen. Pass. Agent. Vancouver. D. C Astoria & Columfah River Railroad Co. LEAVES UNION DEPOT. for Alayjrtr. Kalnlar. Clatskanlr, V Jfpori Clifton. Astoria. Vi'nx ronton. Fltt 1. Ham mond. Fort .'teToin, ienrnar: 1'arlc. -ji.1 Astoria and sanir ExyrcM. Daily. Astoria Express. Dally. ARRIVE3 UNION VSVOT. 80 A. M. C:53 P. M 11:10 A 'I 9:40 P. W Tlekst office. 2S& Morrison t and Union depot. i. C JfATO. Gn. Paoa. .Axt.. JUtorta. Or. Pacific Coast Steamship Co. FOR ALASKA. THE COMPANY'S elegant steamers Queen. Cottage City, City of Topka and AI - Kl leave TACOMA U A. M.t SE ATTLE 0 P. M. Sept. 2. 7. 12. 17. 22. 27. Oct. 2. 7. 12. 17. 22. 27; Nov. 1. and every fifth day thereafter. Further Information obtain company's folder. The company reserves the right to change steamers, saltlnz dates and hours of sailing, without previous notice. AGENTS N. lOSTON. 24: Washington sf Portland. Or.: F. V. CAKLETON. N. P. B. Dock. Tacoma. TICKET tFFtCE. 01S F ave.. Seattle, E. AV. MELSE. Ticket A H. H. LLOYD. Tucct Sound Supt.. Oc.v Dock, Seattle; C. "W. MILLEK, Asat. Supt. Ocean Dock. Seattle. , GOOD.VLL. FEKKINS CO . Gen. Agti., 8. T. j t n-i !.- I Tha riye, dally to an4 LE K from St. Pul. Mlana- No. I spoils. Duluth. ChlcAgk' 0:00 1. M I an't " lN1lnr Kaat. ARRIVK No. a. 7 (Mi A M Through Palacv and Tourlat Sleeiers. Dlnlofl and UufTet Smoklng-Llbrary Cora. JAPAN - AMERICAN LINH STEAMSHIP RIOJUN MARU Tor Japan. China and all Asiatic point wia ieave Seattla About October I Oth WASHINGTON & ALASKA STEAMSHIP CO. The fast mall steamship "CITY OF SEAT TLE." sailing from Seattle every 10 days for Skagway. calling at Port Townsend. Ketchikan and Juneau. Steamers "ABERDEEN" and "RUTH," Se attle to Skagway, and Intermediate points. every seven days. Through tickets to Dawson. $725. first-class: and $36 second-class. DODWELL & CO.. Ltd.. 232 Onlr at- Tcle'thar Main Ofl. i iV!.L'L.:.'t..-t.-A'.' mmmmMmm z&jiJZMm 'fctar C5MiRATffiRTOEBHt( Ifclct Olficc. Z63 MarrlS3i Stre; 'Phontii) f