10 THE MOENING ORBGONIAIir, FEIDAY, AUGUST 24, 1900. PROGRESS OF GOVERNMENT IN 100 YEARS (Copyright. 1900, by Seymour Eaton.) THE OREGONIAN'S HOME STUDY CIRCLE: DIRECTED B PROF-SEYMOUR EATON COMPARATIVE STUDIES OF TWO CENTURIES EC Modern Monarchies. The century has 'witnessed the hlrth of two great powers of Europe through a process of unification of unimportant states which had hitherto been bound to gether by tics of blood and common racial traditions. These are Germany and Italy. Until our century a. German ICatlon -was simply a dream of patriots of common language and Instincts. But through the genius of Stein and Bismarck the dream has materialized in a great federal mon archy." with an Emperor whose large pre rogative Is overshadowed by the supreme will of the people as expressed in Parlia ment. Meantime the states of the. Italian Pen insula have been welded together by "Vic tor Emmanuel, by Count Cavour and by Garibaldi, and another monarchy of the modern type has taken its place among the great powers. In these monarchies and In all others of Europe save the mighty states of half-civilized Russia tho, spirit of the century has inspired the peo ple to demand and to exact by revolutior if necessary a liberal measure of self government through a representative Par liament. Party Machinery. In the application of the theory of Democratic government which has char acterized the period under review the or ganization of political parties has been the chief factor. The party machine, with all its notable virtues and manifold vices. Is a product of our century. It Is true that Sir Robert "Walpole before the middle of the last century organized party gov ernment in England, but the machinery of parties was very crude 100 years ago. Jn our own country we have constructed since lfiOO the most perfect system of party organization, in theory, which exists In the world. Our plan of erecting a series of nominating conventions and executive committees on a basis of party primaries Is unimpeachable in principle, and this elaborate system is a typical develop ment of this century Political Parties and Civil Service. In the evolution of party machinery to operate free government every country passes through an era when the spoils system runs riot. The early English par tics inherited the spoils system from the regime of personal monarchy, which the party system displaced. The King was often moved by other considerations than those of fitness Jin bestowing office, and It was not unnatural that when political parties took the appointing power from the monarch they should follow the royal example in bestowing patronage. In America the spoils system crept into the politics of some of the states, notably Kew Torlc. very early in our history, but it did not Invade the Federal system until the time of Jackson. I.Ike other evils, the spoils system pro vokes reaction by excess. In England a democracy of growing Intelligence de manded the merit sj-stcm about the mid dle of the century, and In America a generation later an outraged people be gan to move on the spoilsmen. Great Britain has completely purged her civil service of the taint of spoils: we have made an excellent beginning In this coun try. The victories of civil service reform in these and other countries must surely be reckoned among the most Important governmental achievements of our cen tury. Itnllot Reform. Another political product of our era 13 the secret ballot system. From one point of view this may seem too trivial to cite in this rapid review or political develop ment, but since free and fair elections are the only sure foundation of popular government, the introduction of a plan which guarantees such elections must be regarded as one of the notable political events of our time. Some Radical PropoNnU. Two Important and far-reaching modifi cations of political practlve have been eagerly discussed during the closing years of our century, but they have received practical application on only a very small scale These arc the Initiative and refer endum and proportional representation. The system of initiative and referendum, which represents the closest possible ap proach to pure democracy, has been suc cessfully applied in Switzerland for many years and has been used to a very slight extent In local government elsewhere. The plan of proportional representation, which aims to secure accurate reflection of all distinct shades of public opinion in a community, has just been adopted in Belgium ard is in operation in a smoll way in a few other places. But the gen oral realization of these newer plans for the improvement of democracy nr.ist fig ure as one of the political achievements of the 20th century. The 19th can claim only the conception of the ideas and the discussion of the ideals. The Municipal Problem. The briefest review of the century would bo woefully incomplete If it -lid not mention the new and puzzling cle ment which has been injected into cho governmental problem by the recent mar velous growth of great cities. The sta tistics of the remarkable growth of city population have been quoted so ofter that it is not necessary to cite them here. The facts are familiar to all. Many of i i Bismarck. tho problems presented by the govern ment of these great masses of densely crowded city dwellers are as yet unsolved even in theory. "We are still experiment ing with the organization of city gov ernment, and we have arrived at no agreement regarding the scope of the du ties which the city should perform. The tendency at present Is toward a wider and wider field of municipal activity. Grovrlnsr Importance of Government. And this introduces us to the final consideration in this review the develop ment of the functions of government dur ing the last 100 years. As we urvey the governmetal field from this point of view we note that our century, especially the latter half has been marked by a rapid Increase of the duties undertaken by pub lic authorities. In 1S00 the duties of gov ernment were comparatively few and sim ple. It was expected to do little except protect life and property. But as the modern Industrial system developed it be came evident that the scope of public au thority would have to be extended to the regulation of Industry in the Interest of. the weaker classes. Tho factory acts of England furnish an excellent illustration of this extension of function. Gradually this Interference with what formerly was purely private business has increased. Governments have undertaken Industrial eajterprlEes, such as railroads, telegraphs f I and telephones. At the same time public supervision of private business has been j extended in many directions. The recent 1 growth of great combinations has given I Impetus to this movement, for the people have become alarmed at the possibilities of abure of the tremendous p-wcr wfelded by corporation managers, and have ap pealed to the government for protc Ion through public regulation. Meantime the growth of great cities hai made new demands for the extension of public activity within the municipality. The distinctively monopolistic :ervl es such as street railways and lighting plants, are now operated by many cities, and even where the operation is in pri vate hands the municipllty exercises strict control In all Intelligent communi ties. Moreover, municipal authorities are now assuming responsibility for the prop er housing of the poorer citizens, for the care of their health and for the provlslcn of recreation. Thus both the general and the local governments have occupied fields of usefulness far wider than those of 100 years ago. and the process of ex tension Is still going on with apparently increasing rapidly. New Reniionslhtlftlcs of Democracy. It is apparent, then, at the close of the century that the joclal forces are con spiring to make government more and more vital to the citizen. Thus the re sponsibilities of democracy, which have already Increased so greatly, are becom rlng heavier each year. But a review of the history of the last hundred years af fords ground for a rational confidence that these responsibilities will be square'.y met and successfully discharged. There has been much discussion lately of the weaknesses of democracy and Its possible failure to respond to the Increased de mands upon its intelligence which the more complicated governmental system of our day is making. Especially in Amer ica there is much pefsimistic comparison of the depravity of the present with the simple virtues of the past. The statesmen of the early days of the Republic, vlew:d through the haze of distance are trans figured and the men who chose these par agons to administer their government share by reflection the glory of their leaders. But the historian who Is under no illusions writes most vivid e.says on the political depravity of the fathers. It is, unhappily, true that It Is not necessary to scorch very long In the political sys tem of even the most enlightened nations of our day to discover glaring defects. But a careful and candid examination, of the politics of our forefathers reveals shortcomings and positive evils of so much more serious nature than those we wrestle with that the observer becomes very hopeful for the future as he marks the progress of the past. Philadelphia. SURE TO TAKE THEM OUT. "What to Cue When "Water Won't Re move Stains. New York Herald. Rub mildewed spots well with lemon juice and salt and expose to a hot sun. The most delicate fabrics will be un harmed. The spots will disappear. For removing grease spots take equal parts of strong ammonia water, ether and alcohol. To prevent the ring form ing about the clean spot, rub with a cloth slightly dampened with the same solution. In other words, rub out the ring. If the cloth is too wet it will only makc another one. When varnish gets on any garment the cleansing should be done as soon as pos sible. Wet the varnish thoroughly with alcohol two or three times and then sponge oft! with a clean cloth. If the color has been affected the material should be sponged with chloroform, unless the color is blue. Then vinegar or acetic acid sho.uld be used Instead of the chloroform. Both of these are hard on the hands arid should be used with caution. Muddy spots on white dresses may be removed by washing in a solution of carbonate of soda In water. Lay the soiled part on a cloth and sponge well. One often notices on new linen yellow stains left by the sewing machine. Such garments should not be put into the wash until the spots have been well rubbed with liquid ammonia. Repeated applications of fresh lard or butter will come as near as anything to removing tar, though a spot Is almost always left. Fine linen is continually In danger of iron rust, and unless such spots are at tended to at once there Is little hope of removing them. Soak the spot well, as if for general washing, pass a hot Iron over a wet cloth and when the latter steams well put It under the stained garment. Then on the upper side of the goods rub a little oxalic acid where the spots show. The action of the acid is hastened by the heat and the moisture. The rust disap pears. Then the wholo garment should be washed with soap. Paint on woolen clothing may some times be removed by rubbing the spot with the same cloth. It Is supposed that the paint disappears In the fuzz produced by the rubbing. If this is not successful try turpentine. Blood stains are about as difficult as any to get out. Here starch comes Into use. Make a thin paste and spread on the stain. I.eavi it to dry. Then brush ofi. Generally the stain will go with the starch. The worst -tains, however, will require several applications of the starch. ' Scorched clothes are often discarded as hopeless, but if not too much burned may be made all right by the patient use of onion juice, Bake the onion and squeeze out the juice. Mix It with an ounce of fuller's earth, a little- shredded soap and a wineglassful of vinegar. Heat the mixture till the soap Is dissolved. Then wait till it is cold before applying. Rub It well over the scorched place, leave to dry and then put the garment In the regular washing. It is sometimes difficult to remove large coffee stains. First pour boiling water through the stain, then dip the spot in strong ammonia water, rinse In cold water; and put out in the sun to bleach. For tea stains nothing Is needed but plain water. Often the shrinking effect of rain drops seems to have ruined light silks, when all that Is required is to Iron the silk on the wrong side with a piece of muslin between the goods and the iron. Sent to Study Mechanics. One of the interesting things in Ger many this Summer is the remarkable exodus of Germans to the Paris Exposi tion, says a Paris correspondent in the Brooklyn Eagle. There has been an enormous flow of travel across the Rhine all Summer, so that all the railways leading to Paris from Germany have had to increase their passenger train, service; and besides this many extra trains have Count Cnvour. i been run. Recently such a train carried, 400 students of German technological In stitutions to Paris. In many cases funds have been appropriated by municipali ties and manufacturing companies for1 carrying high-class artisans to Paris to1 study the mechanical progress shown there. In Paris, as the German correspondents report, there are swarms of Germans, and everywhere they are In evidence. The evidence, as the correspondent ad mits. Is not always of a kind to flatter the national vanity of Germans It con sists of oddities of dress and mustache. The sober, slow-going German, who spends his life at a desk and never goes hunting, thinks he must don a huntsman's garb when he goes off traveling, and so one of the unwonted sights of Paris this Summer is the German In a baggy suit of dull green and wearing a small conical green hat with a feather in it." The German of another type Is also much in evidence through his overtrained mustache, of the style which originated with Haby and was first made famous by the Kaiser. And the German woman, alas. Is conspicuous for her Ill-fitting dress, bad in taste as to color and style. So say the correspondents, and every American of some experience in Germany wijl easily believe the correspondents. , AT THE HOTELS. THE PORTLAND. P L McDermott. K T J D Gavin, N T J M Levendecker. StPl Mrs Capt Thompson & children, San Fran Mrs John "Warner.Phlla Miss Warner, Phlla Geo R Cleveland. Chgo T M Spofford A wife, uinsas uity J T Price, St Louis M A Krutrer, N Y E B Dana, N T J A Clover, San Fran H Jenter, Chicago C A Baker, Chicago H A Kyer. Seattle W H Olrii, Spokane E Loe Camp, N Y Chns Porter, North ampton, Mass Geo F Train. Jr. S F Wm H Morrison, S F C L Grimes, Denver "VV H Torrance & wife, Chicago C A Garleck, do G W Brown. Ohio Chas Kohlman, N T Miss Kohlman, N Y Alice Rollins Crane, Dawson Major C Hunt, -6 F Lee Jacobs, San Fran Mr & Mrs W W Fogy, New York i L Fletcher. San Fr Sam Cohen, Neb Mr & Mrs IV J Murphy, Clnclniatl TV F Herbert & wife, San- Mateo, Cal TVm T Holson. S F G H Barnes, Salt X,k6 Col Wm E Dougherty, USA Capt Towney, USA Lieut & Mrs Wallace, USA E T Mills. Springfield, Mass G T Newell, Jr. Phlla F T McBrlde, wlfo & son, Butte H C Marsh, Seattle L A Colver, Salem C A Smith, Minn Miss N Smith. Minn Miss Addle Smith, do G A Wood & wf. Mill bank. S D James Rcld, Montana E A Engwer, San Fr Geo W Sanborri & wf, Astoria G R Ingles, Kansas Cy Theo Brantley, Helena J B Crowley, San Fr G J Ashe, Knoxvl.Tenn F S Novell, Juneau 1 Miss Dunlap, Kan Cy Geo P Benjamin, N Yi Chas J Newman. S F W D Macbrlde, Prince ton, in J B Macbrlde, do Man i' Macbrlde, do Chas T Cates, Jr. do Chas T Battelle, Seattl Colnmbla River Scenery, Regulator Line steamers, from Oak street dock dally, except Sunday, 7 o'clock A. M. The Dalies. Hood River, Cas cade Locks and return. Call on, or 'tone Agent for further Information. THE PERKINS. PurdyHart, Astoria Miss Gates, Hlllsboro F Cook. Astoria Mrs Kate E Daly, J Wine. San Fran West Berkeley, Cal Miss Grace Hayes, Vallejo, Cal H Gray, San Fran Mrs H Gray, San Fran J O Evans, San .Fran Mrs C D'Arcy, MeMln F A Elliott. Newberg Mrs C H Schmadeka, Grangevllle, Idaho Miss G Schmadeka. do Clarence Schmadeka Grangevllle, Idaho Mr Pllth, Subllmltv.Or Mr-3 Pllth. do Harry Curtis, Dalles E W Curtis, Dalles BenJ A Glfford, Dalles H F Alleri. Kan City E Harrington, Dalles J R Buchanan, Pendle ton, Or Miss MInta Bell, Rose burg, ..r C H Bagley, Hanford, Cal Mrs C H Bagley, do Mrs R R Russ,WallaW Mrs II H Turner, do Master Turner, do W E Wakelee, San Fr Frank AVood. Chicago F E Parker, Astoria Mrs Geo E Ffundei, Rossland, B C E RHanan, Roseburg J-" x iuuft, italics H W Seymour, N Y Mrs T P Wane, Vau- couver Mrs A Fermuth, do Miss L Compton, S F H W Curll, Pittsburg R Laldlane, Toronto B W Mcintosh. S F F B Wilson, Seattle Mrs F B Wilson, do G Neelln. Seattle J M Morton. Seattle Mrs Dr Scott, Dawson it u nunay, Minn V B Mae. Seattle J H Smith, Nome J O'Leaxy, Seattle O S Weddell, M D McKeerford, Pa Mre S F Rector, Cen tralla. Wash Mrs W W Amburn, Portland A L Prevoat. Seattle Master Prevost. do jn iNcison. Seattle E Hannann, Dalles O James, Castle Rk A Olsen. New York J H Elwell. Vancouver J Slagan, San Fran Maud Cusford, Cos- mopous Geo W Torreshan, do W Kitchen. The Dalles Nellie M Hallenbeck, L S Metealf. St Louis Boston. Mass J R Addison, Tacoma Mrs Morris, Seattle H H Wlkoff. San Franj J H Hutchinson,. Mon- j ituaisn, Sacramento tesano, wash Mrs J Rudlsh, do jJ M Smith, Omaha Miss RudUh, do Ross Cooper, Chehalls H C Wilson. Pt Town- Harry H Belt, Dallas send. Wash A C Sanders, Tacoma Chas Umberest, Syra- S C Webster, Pullman cuse. N Y Perry Crowell, Colfax, H C Bill. St Paul Wash - W E Reynolds, Oak- Mrs Crowell. do land, val I Miss Crowell, do A B Little. Houlton Master Crowell. do Mrs Little, Houlton R. A Wilson, Sacmnto J B Neal, Scattlo Geo C Brownell. OregC T A Farley, Salem C H Spoyn, Olympla Mrs D Morgan, Sllvor B K Worley, Bohemia Lake, Or W B Sampson, Stocktn Miss Morgan, do W F Sampson, do Master Morgan, do Rev Adolph Dengman, F E Dodge, Delta,Cal Vancouver, Wash Mrs F E Dodpe, do J L Tucker, San Fran Mrs Gus La Fontaln, H T Booth, Baker City Pendleton, Or W A Butterfleld, S F Mrs L Pruson, do G W White, San Fran Mrs W B Cown, Ca- .John Copeland, Detroit, leb, Or I Mich R B Lienor, Monmth Hugh McGrcer, Ante H V Gates, Hlllsboro j lope. Or Mrs Gates, Hlllsboro THE IMPERIAL. C. W. Knowles, Manager. J H Faler, Tacoma I J B Bayler, Klswlck J B Brownson, Sumptrl W L Whltmoro, Chgo Mrs S C Bell, MtTabr W L Bradshaw, DaTles Miss E M DeWald, FtJ S Cooper, Indopen.ee X'nA Tn TI T Allan AvVn..... Wayne. Ind D M Allen. Arkansas Miss E McCartv. do Mrs Atlen. Arkansas Annie Mcllroy, do 0 D Taylor, The Dalles W B Chandler. Baker City Rev J I Hayes, Marys- vllle Miss H A Ender, Loe Angeles Miss E Rogers, do R W Custer, San Frn G W Plchart. San Frn Mrs Rlchart, San Frn H E Fellows, San Fran Mrs J Hansen, Seattle Miss M Dahl, Seattle Miss C Dahl. Seattle Miss C Harris, Ogden A L Ender, Tho Dalles P H D'Arcy, San Fran A D Burnle, Cathlamet C E Trlmback; Fentf Geo W liber, do 1 Sylvester, Omaha F D Allen. Spokane Mrs G S Batty. Canby Master Batty, Canby Mrs E C Pentland, In dependence O B Miles. Fossil Mrs O B Miles, Fossil H E Bickers, Salom A Hardwlnn, San Fran C S Moore, Salem Mrs Moore, Salem P C Hetzler, Salem Miss Sarah Wayland, Pofo Robles. Cal H S Rowan, Chicago J BInswanger. Morris C W Blnnhall, Tacoma Mrs Blnnhall. do H O Gergn. Tacoma Mrs J F Copp, Walla Walla, Wash Miss Copp, do R Wlngate, Astoria Dr Geo H Burger. B McCarty, Indlanapls m it ueust, wneatsn Geo E Cole, Spokane R Fisher, Seattle Miss Fisher, Seattle T E Damerwlth, do S Greene, Seattle Mrs Greene, Seattle W Tlnson, Fairhaven M B Crane, Tacoma Miss Crane, Tacoma L F Schmidt. Olympla F A Dryden, Castle Rock Mrs Dri'den, do I J H Elwell. Vancouver Mrs Elwell. do H E Ankeny, Eugene Mrs Ankeny, Eugene Mist Ankeny. Eugene E W Ross, Castle Rk C R Stnead, Blalocks A F Surtz, Denver Alt Kelly, San Fran C K Leavenworth, Olympla Count Tocquevllle, Tarls, .France Coontess Tocquevllle, Paris. France " Miss Tocquevllle. do Ml5s n uarty, Ireland G Mayers, France W H Brenner. Seattle J S Kenyon. Baker City. Or Mrs Kenyon, do C L Fltchard. N Y H L Brown. Salem C P Robblns, Spokane Mrs Robblns, Spokane F D "ft lnton. Astoria Mrs Geo D Connors, Astoria A Smith. San Fran Mrs Smith. do J Atkt .son, Ames. la Mrs Atkinson. do I Helena, Mont THE T. CHARLES. C W Tompkins. Mo Dan Fild. Rinarla J W Balrd. Oregon Cyl M II Parkin, Gales CI C D Marble. Mount Pleasant Mrs J Mason. Corvallls E D Schlappin. Oak Pt O E Hunter. Toledo A E Bates, Baker City Mrs Bates. do Mrs L E Ray & ch, Pilot Rock Mrs N E Turner, Parma. Idaho Chas Tarker. Lewlstn E Bergorln. do A Hodson. city H E Heaton, Rainier Sidney Graham, do W C Bullls. Mohawk Mrs W J Laury, do M D Carter J E Mller. Yreka. Cal J W Hardlst. city O B Mlle3, FofsII Mrs Miles, do J Tucker. Chehalls O Roberts, Chehalls E Fukes, Chehalls W Gilbert. Chehalls D W Wilkin Stone ' M Gr?en. 8tone G W Groble, Stone Jas Manary. Troutdale Mr Manary, do Father A L Blanc, Ta coma Mr &. Mrs J E Retnke, city G H Hamilton, city Jos Page. Ellensburg E Kimball. Kalama Miss C Hansworth. do K Clement. Gem. Idh C M Hughes. do John Panmales. do E Granstrom, Warren dale Mrs Granstrom, do A W Abraham, do A Jones. do Clair Bovle. Newport Stuart Hall. La Mrs Hugh Glenn, The Dalles C II WIlon. Dalles T T Fuller. Olympla A Fuller. Olympla O H Oakes. Olympla J T Vaughn. Buttevlll P Johnson. Astoria Wm Cantwell. Ores C H A Hunt, Morris town. Ter.n F W Hefty, do John C Templeton, do Hotel UrnnsTrlclr. Seattle. European; first doss. Rates, 78c and up. On Mock from depot. Restaurant next door. Tacoma Hotel, Tacoma. American plan Rates. $3 and up. Donnelly Hotel. Tacoma. European plan. Rates, SOc and up. AMERICANS IN EUROPE THEY .SWARM OVER THE WHOLE CONTINENT. Hovr American Girls Get About Experiences of a Vacation Tour--it No Place to Spend a Life. BERLIN, Aug. 1. Never In the hlstory of American travel has there been such an exodus of tourists as at the present time. The cities, towns, museums, churches, galleries, stroets, boats and trains swarm with them. You -cannot walk two steps In any given direction without bumping up against one or more of these feath ered globe-trotters (I call them feathered because they ore always on the "fly") gazing up at some massive structure. Baedecker In hand, or studying their location from a city map spread out be fore them. The native born, to whom these accustomed sights do not appf-ai, gazes with an amused smile at these walking Interrogation points, wondering what In the world they can find of in- C. E. AKELEY'S GROUP OF TO BE EXHIBITED AT THE terest in those old buildings, that arq rotting with decay, and goes off laughing In his sleeve at what he con siders the foreigners' grand simplicity. Well, such is the world. The vacation tourist travels about as though the earth wero being spread out for his Bpecial amusement, to be stared at, criticised or ridiculed, and does not dream that ho himself Is furnishing a like spectacle to tho natives; that they are having as much fun out of him as he is out of them, and in nine cases out of ten with more reason. But there is no doubt that with all his faults, the foreigner loves tho American still, for the average United States citizen likes to spend money, and an open purse is an open sesame to tho heart of a foreigner. That is one advantage that the Ameri can enjoys while traveling In Europe. Ho might be a millionaire with monoy to burn, or only a poor schoolteacher traveling on his five years' savings, it is all ono to a foreigner; he will fleece the socond as readily and willingly as tho first, and with as much scraping of feet and head-bobbing as though he wero not only rolling in wealth but a prince of noble blood into the bargain. Oh, yes, they know how to do it, but so do the Americans. And it often makes those heads bob a little Ilvellen and hands spread out in angry gesticulations when the sheckles do not come In as readily as expected. We hod a very amusing ex perience while in Venice. We happened to get in with a German lady and her son. charming people, full of life and wit, who had traveled extensive ly and knew something of the ways of the Italians. It being a fine day we made up a little party of Ave and Instructed our gondolier to row us over to the Lido, the popular bathing resort of Venice. We payed the regular entrance fee to the grounds, but when we arrived there wo were told that It would cost us 5 lire more to go down to the beach. 'Nonsense!" cries our German friend, Indignantly. "We don't wish to buy the beach," and with that she walked off, the rest of us following her lead, "I know these Italians." continued our friend, a3 we kept on tho road to the left; "they've put up that gate for tho poor little files who don't know enough to keep out of traps set for their destruc tion. There must be another way to get to the beach besides that gate, and I am going to And it." And find It she did after a ten minutes' walk, and wo chuckled when we found ourselves lnsido the charmed circle, 5 lire richer than we were outside it. But our troubles were not over, for we had brought our lunch, and on looking about for a place to spread It, saw nothing but a long row of bathhouses fitted up with tables and chairs and covered with a canvas awning. "Just the thing!" cried Mrs. Hlmsted; "we'll find one that Is unoccupied." "But they are private property," expos tulated my friend; "the owners will ob ject if they come up and find us using their furniture." I "That is nothing. If they come we will simply say we didn't know they j were occupied, apologize and leave, for by that time we will have finished our lunch and won't care to take the hut with us." We were quite wllllnjr to follow her ad vice, as our appetites had become quite , unmanageable from our long walk and I the sea breeze, so at the farther end of I the beach we found a promising looking t hut, and at once started to work. All went well until we came to the second I course, when we suddenly spied the tall form of an officer approaching our way, and at once surmised the object of hl3 solicitude. j ."Keep mum!" whispered our German . friend, raising a warning finger to her ; lips, "he probabtty recognizes us as stran- gers. and will demand a fee for our use of this hut. But we do not understand Ital Ian, remember. Just leave me to man- j pge him." With Derfect confidence in our friend we assumed a most innocent front and con- j tlnued with our fea3t Presently the evil one approached, and asked us In , German whether we had payed for the , use of the hut. Mrs. Hlmsted threw .up ! her hands to signify that she did not j understand, at which the officer very J blandly held out his hand and imltnted by gesture that he wanted 5 lire. But i we were very dense Just then and finally, I when we saw the poor man was losing pa- I tlence and waxing wroth, we smilingly ' Invited him to partake of a glass of wine ; with us. Is ever did I see such a looK of utter disgust cross a man's face. He shrugged his shoulders, walked Indignant ly over to the gate and locked it. "Now we are in it!" cried the young man, with a laugh. "He couldn't make I us pay to come In, so he is, going to j charge us to get out. Quite a novel idea." "Pack up the things and follow me," replied our guide. "I got you In; I'll get you out." And watching for a. chance when the officer was out of sight, wo gave one simultaneous bound and "lit" on the other side of the fence. It was j not a particularly graceful performance, but It served Its purpose, and the glory of the chase was ours. There are many ways of "doing" Europe, and this la one of them. Now, while I am on this subject, I Just want to tell you that if there is an Ideai spot In the world It Is Venice. Give mo England for quiet, peaceful domesticity. Paris far gaiety and fun, Switzerland an J Germany for poetic stimulus. Florence for art, but Venice yes, Venice is for lovers. Venice at night on the Grand Canal, with its lights. Its music. Its black gondolas lazily floating on the surface of the quiet waters, the white, picturesque costumes of the gondoliers, the colored lanterns of the musicians barges from f which the sweet voices ring out Into the night Venice at such times has a charm that can only be felt. iot described. Tho night of our entrance we ptrssed a gondola in which reclined in rather close proximity a young man and what seemed .to us his young bride. Their boxes. marked Boston," directly caught our eye, but before we could address them the young man anticipated us by asking how we were enjoying the ride. "Very much. Indeed. Are you?" "Oh. I could stay out here nil night like this," he replied, with an ecstatic smile, and we didn't marvel at it when wo saw the happy face of hl3 young com panion, who was reclining in his em brace, and the evidence was borne in upon us that they were In their honey moon. BLACK ALASKAN SHEEP. FIELD COLUMBIAN MUSEUM. There is only one way to "do" Venice properly, and that is to engage a gondo la the moment you arrive and keep It by tho day. Not only Is it much cheaper than renting It by the hour, but it is also much pleasanter and more advantageous; for you thu3 make a friend of the gon dolier, who will feel that he belongs to you, and wait upon you like a slave. Moreover, he can give you more Informa tion about Venice in an hour than you could learn from a guidebook in a week, and with a little knowledge of French you can dispense with an interpreter. There are many ways of traveling, and though some no doubt are pleasanter than others, all are equally easy.' For Instance, some travel In large crowds, some In small, congenial parties, and others again Independently or entirely alone. This year .owing to the extensive advertising done by the tourist companies, most of the exodus Is In flocks. This mode of seeing Europe may have Its advantages, I have not yet discovered them, but as to Its disadvantages they are quite apparent and numerous. But perhaps you are con sidering the proposition because It seems cheap, and having no idea of the cost of such a trip you are afraid to venture it upon your inexperience, and prefer to be "guided." Well, then, take your choice. If you are content to be rushed through the principal cities of Europe, like a bird on the wing, started out of your sleep at 4 o'clock in the morning in order to catch an early train, pushed In a fever heat through art galleries, museums and churches. In constant anxiety lest, If you stop to look at a picture, you will be separated from your party, chased home on a dead rush, entering the hotel worn out and dusty, given Ave minutes to brush up, then driven Into the dining-room, like so many sheep to the slaughter, out again to "do" the castles and parks, then oft once more on the train to make another city and go through the same routine I say, If this kind of thing suits you, well and good, join an excursion party and get your money's worth In point of quantity. You will certainly see more places In a given time than you could traveling by yourself, but whether you will be any the wiser in the end Is yet a matter of doubt. Then there Is another way of "doing" Europe. It is a'dOpted dulte frequently, namely, a la Baedecker. It is done this wise: You come to Europe. You buy a guide-book. You enter, let us say, a picture gallery. Naturally the artist3 and the paintings are strange to you and there is nothing to guide you but a num ber. You look at the number, you consult your guide-book, you 'read that this is a very famous painting by Tinto retto called Paradise and you read on, so that its history becomes known to you. Then you go on to the next pic ture and do the same thing. It Is not necessary to glance at the pictures be cause they don't tell you anything any way, and it would be only a waste of time and time is so precious, you know. A great many people travel in this way (I have observed with my own eyes), and no doubt find It very profitable. At least, they can go home and talk very nicely on what they have seen abroad in a guide-book! Tho majority ot tourists belong to the so-called weaker sex, but any one who has once felt their knuckles and elbows as they push their way through the crowds at the wharves and railway sta tions, would be inclined to question their "weakness." They certainly know how to "get there" without the help of their natural protectors. But traveling In Eu rope is not such a vast undertaking as so many people Imagine. It Is, on the contrary, quite simple, and In the case of a novice who has never been to Eu rope before, requires only a little brain and foresight. A great many people,, on finding out that we two girls were trav eling about alone, opened their eyes in amazement and inquired If we were not afraid. "Afraid of what?" asked my friend in nocently of one lady who put the ques tion. "Oh, of everything. It must take such courage In you to venture alone so far from home." But I calmly assured her that we hadn't seen any wild bears except in cages, and the only army of soldiers he had had to face were those we met on the parade grounds. On tho whole It is more comfortable and certainly much pleasanter to travel In dependently, to go when and where you like and stay as long n you please; and as for getting along. I must say that wherever we have gone we have met with the utmost courtesy and politeness and that we never once had to ask a service in vain.. As to troublesome ad ventures, which some sensational writers are fond of exaggerating, we have had no more disagreeable experiences than that of having to chase around to the custom-houses with our baggage under our arms, and considering that wo took occasion to bur den ourselves with as little as possible ot this awkward article, we got off much easier than did the majority of travel ers. So that there Is no reason why a young girl with any pluck at all about her and a little common sense shouldn't be able to get about Europe comfortably. Let me tell you what one young girl die. I won't mention her name, but after you hear it you won't need to be told that she Is an American. She had to travel a long distance on tho train over night, and not wishing to en gage a sleeping car, as they arc so very high-priced, she and a friend who was with her stretched themselves full length on tho seats. To everybody who entered to take a seat she told the same story j that the compartment belonged to her, ana they would have to find places else where. Most of them took it In good part and left, but one old lady seemed to doubt the statement that the whole com partment was paid for, and said she would ask the conductor. However, the young girl held her ground and when tho conductor came around she cooly told him that they were two young girls trav eling alone: that they desired to sleep, and didn't wish any one put Into their compartment. She was told it wouldn't be possible: that the cars were crowded. land that if any lady entered she should be allowed to stay. "Oh, but It is possible. insisted tho young lady. "You can fix It up if you want to by saying we have paid for the compartment. And we will pay for It we will pay you." And she forthwith showed him a piece of money. It worked like a charm. The conductor smiled and left. A couple of hours lntet he returned to say that he would have to change their compartment, as there wero too many people getting on, but he would give them a better car. He evidently liked the looks of the money, for he put them In a first-class car. though they were traveling second, and gave them the use of the entire com partment for the night. It is worth while knowing that America is not the only land where bribery works. And aft er this, let no ono say that girls cannot take care of themselves, One of the peculiarities of travel on this continent Is that you are always running across people you have met before. Yon part from pleasant companionship at one station, never expecting to see them again, and after a few days perhaps, lol and behold, there they are once more. And how happy you are to see them: Just as though they had been life-long friends instead of only chance acquain tances. N But with Americans it Is not even nec essary that they should have met be fore. Merely to see them out nere makes you long to shake the hand of fellow ship. And you don't wait for an Intro duction, either. Here is the way they greet each other: Two trains, bound for opposite points, meet at a railway station. Both are crowded with tourists. Necksare craned to catch a glimpse of the people In the other car. ' All of a sudden the Stars anil Stripes loom up big and conspicuous on some ono's coat collar or shirt waist, and immediately there is a cry from tho other car: "IT. S. A.r "Yes you?" "You bet. Where from?" "Oregon. You?" "New York." "Good. Big party?" "Yes 50 of us European travelers four months grand tour glorious time. Go ing up the Alps. Been there?" "Just come from the Rigi. You'll like it. Well, here we go. Isn't it jolly?" "Great! Good-bye." "Good-bye." "Hurrah for America!" "Three cheers for Uncle Saml" And the Stars and Stripes do the rest. I am going to tell you a secret. When I left home two months ago, to take this trip I thought there were hundreds ot places out here more attractive to live in than America, that rwe didn't understand how to make life pleasant, but wasted our best years In the effort to court the mighty dollar. Well, I've changed my mind. Better one year in America than a cycle of Europe. X tell you that Europe Is good enough to travel in, but when it comes to spending one's life In a place, give mo America every time. SOPHIE REINHART. nirschfleld Acquitted. HELENA, Mont., Aug. 23. L. H. Hlrschileld, ex-president of the Mer chants' National Bank, of Helena, was acquitted today after a two weeks' trial on the charge of making false reports to the Controller of the Currency as to the bank's condition. The verdict was found on the direction of the court, which granted the defendant's motion for an instructed verdict. Only they who use it know the luxury of it. Pears' is the purest and best toilet soap in all the world. Dread of the Dental Chair TEETH EXTRACTED AND FII.I.BD AB KOLUTEIT WITHOUT PAIN, by our lata ctentiflc method applied to tho aroma. No sleep-produclns agents or cocaine. These are the only dental parlors In Fort land bavin PATENTED APPLIANCES and Ingredients to extract, nil and apptr sold crowns and porcelain crowns undetcctablo from natural teeth, and warranted for 10 years. WITHOUT THE LEAST PAIN. Full set of teeth, 95, a perfect fit guaranteed or no pay. Gold crowns. ?5. Oold filling, 91. Sil ver flllinffs. OOo. 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The only way in the world to cure dandruff Is to kill the dandruff germ, and there is no hair preparation that will do that but Newbro'o Hcrpidde. Herpl cide, killing the dandruff germ, leaverf the hair free to grow as healthy Nature In tended. Destroy the cause, you remove tho effect. Kill the dandruff germ with Herplcido. MB fjO PLATES filiW THE PALATIAL Hi BOH Tiot a dark office in the building; absolutely flreproofj electric lights and artesian waterj perfect sanita tion and thorough ventilation. Bis vators run day and night. Rooms. AINSLIE. DR. GEORGE. Phyitc!an....COS-003 ALDRICH. S. W.. General Contractor 610 ANDERSON. OUSTAV. Attorney-at-Law.,.813 ASSOCIATED PRiraStE. L. Powell. Mxr..80 AUSTEN. F. C., Manager for Oregon and Washington Bankers' Life Association, ot Des Motnea. la 302-SOS BANKERS" LIFE ASSOCIATION. OS" DE3 MOINES. IA.;F. C. Austen. ManaRer..JS02-303 BATNTUN. GEO. R,. Msr. for Chas. Scrlb- ner's Sons ............311 BEALS. EDWARD A.. Forecast Offlclat U. S. Weather Bureau D10 BENJAMIN. R W.. DentlM ..31 BIN3WANOER. DR. O. 8.. Phrs. A Sur.410-411 BROOKE. DR. J. M.. Phys. &-Sunt 708-709 BROWN. MTRA. M. D 313-31 BRUERE. DR. G. E.. Physician.. . .412-413-U-BUSTEED. RICHARD. Aeent Wilson & Me- Callajr Tobacco Co. C02-603 CAUKIN. G. E.. District Agent Traveler Insurance Co. 7U CARDWELL. DR. J. R ....808 COLUMBIA TELEPHONE COMFVNT flO4-eo3-06-fl07-0t3-014-013 CORNELIUS. C. W.. Phy snd 8uricon....208 COVER, F. c. Cashier Equitable Life 30 COLLIER. P. F.. Publisher; 3. P. McGulre. Manager 413-410 n.KY, J. O. & I. N. 313 DAVIS. NAPOLEON. President Columbia Telephone Co. ... , ,601 DICKSON. DR. J. F.. Physician 713-714 DRAKE. DR. H. B.. Physician 812-313-314 DWTER. JOE. F. Tobaccos 403 EDITORIAL ROOMS Eluhth floor EQUITABLE LIFE ASSURANCE SOCIETT: L. SamttI. Manarer: F. C Cover. Cashler.309 EVENING TELEGRAM 323 Alder otreet FENTON. J. D..Phyrtctan and Surgeon. 509-310 FENTON. DR. HICKS C. Eye and Ear Bit FENTON. MATTHEW F.. Dentist ..........BCS FIDELITT MUTUAL LIFE ASSOCIATION: E. C. Stark. Manager 001 aALVANI. W. H.. Engineer and Draughts man ... ................... 004 GAVIN. A.. President Oregon Camera Club. :. 214-215-216-21T GEART. DR. EDWARD P.. Physician and Sunreon 212-211 GEDBIE PUB. CO.. Ltd.. Fine Art Publish ers: M. C. McGreevy. Mfjr.. .....318 GIEST. A. J. Physician and Surgeon... 700-710 GODDARD, E. a & CO.. Footwear ................Ground floor. 120 Sixth stret GOLDMAN. WILLIAM. Manager Manhattan Life Insurance Cn. of New York..... .200-2111 GRANT. FRANK S Attorn ey-at-Lnw ....OJT HAMMAM BATHS. King 4 Compton. PropetOOJ HAMMOND, A. B. ..319 HOLLISTER. DR. O. C. Phys. Sur..B04-3O3 IDLEMAN. C. M.. Attorney-at-Law..418-17-lJ JOHNSON. W. a -....,.... 313-310-312 KADT MARK T.. Supervisor of Acents Mutual Reserve Fund LIfa Ass'n 04-G0J LAliONT. JOHN. Vice-President and Gen- eral Manager Columbia Telephone Co 604 LITTLEFIELD. H. R.. Phys. and Surgeon. .24 MACRUM. W. S.. Sec. Oregon Camera Club.2H MACKAT. DR. A. E., Phys. and Surjr.. 711-712 MAXWELL. DR. W. E.. Phys. & Surg. .70r-2-3 McCOT. NEWTON. Attorney-at-Law .713 McFADEN. MISS IDA E. Stenographer... 20! McGINN, HENRT E., Attorney-at-Law.3Il-3J3 McKELL. T. J.. Manufacturers' Representa tive 301 MBTT. HENRT 213 MILLER. DR. HERBERT C. Dentist and Oral Surgeon ......... ..003-809 MOSSMAN. DR. E. P.. Dentist 312-313-314 MANHATTAN LIFE INSURANCE CO.. of New Tork; W. Goldman. Manager.... 209-218 MUTUAL RESERVE FUND LIFE ASS'N. Mark T. Kady. Supervisor of Airents..n04-COT McELROT. DR. J. G.. Phys. ,fc Sur.701-702-703 MeFARLAND. E. B.. Secretary Columbia Telephone Co. ...004 McGUIRE. S. P.. Mannger P. F. Collier. Publisher 413-418 McKIM. MAURICE. Attorney-at-Law SCO MUTUAL LIFE INCURANCE CO.. of New Tork; Wm. 3. Fond. State Mrt. .404-403-400 NICHOLAS. HORACE B. Attorney-at-Law .713 NILES. M. L.. Cannier Manhattan Lit In surance Co.. of New Tork 209 OREGON INRMART OF OSTEOPATHY; Dr. L. B Smith. Osteopath ....403-409 OREGON CAMERA CLUB 214-215-210-217 PATTERSON. PETER 0 POND. WM 8.. State Manager Mutual Life Ineu Co. of New York 404-403-409 PORTLAND EYE AN DEAR INFIRMARY. Ground floor. 132 Sixth street PORTLAND MINING- fc TRUST CO.; J. H. Marshall. Manager 819 QUIMBY. L, P. W.. Ganw and Foreotry Warden I16-71T ROSENDALE. O. M.. Metallurgist and Mining-Engineer 313-310 REED & MALCOLM. Opticians. 133 Slsst street REED F C. FWh Commissioner..... 40T RYAN. J. B.. Attorney-at-Law 417 SAMUEL. L. Manager Equitable Life. ...504 SECURITY MUTUAL LIFE INSURANCE CO. : H. F. Bushong. Gen. Agent for Ore. and Wash.. 801 SHERWOOD. J. W.. Deputr Supreme Com- mander. K. O. T. M. ...317 SMITH. Dr. L. B.. Osteopath 403-403 SONS OF THE AMERICAN REVOLUTION.flOO STARK. E. C. Executive Special. Fidelity Mutual Life Association of Phlla.. Pa.... .601 STUART. DELL. Attorney-at-Law.. ...017-013 STOLTE. DR. CHAS. E.. Dentist 704-703 SURGEON OF THE S. P. RY. AND N. P. TERMINAL CO 709 STROWBRIDGE. THOS. H.. Executive Spe cial Agent Mutual Life, of New York 40S SUPERINTENDENT'S OFFICE 201 TUCKER. DR. GEO. F." Dentist 810-011 U. S. WEATHER BUREAU 007-908-000-010 U. S. LIGHTHOUSE ENGINEERS. 13TH DIST-. Captain W. C. Langfltt. Corps of Enctneers. U. S. A ..803 U. S ENGIVEER OFFICE. RIVER AND HARBOR IMPROVEMENTS. Captain W. C Langfltt. Corps of Engineers. U. S. A.. Sit WATERMAN. C H.. Cashier Mutual Life of New York 409 retary Native Daughters .............716-717 WHITE. MISS L. E.. Assistant Secretary Oregon Camera Club ..21 WILSON. DR. EDWARD N Phys. & Sur.301-3 WILSON. DR. GEO. F.. Phys. & Surg..70O-707 WILSON. DR. HOLT C. Pcyn. & Surff.307-603 WILSON & McCALLAT TOBACCO CO.; Richard Buoteed. Agent G02-003 WOOD. DR. W. L.. Physician .412-413-414 WILLAMETTE VALLEY TELEPH. CO.. .811 A few more elegant offices may Iwj had by npplylnff to Portland Trust Company of Oregon. 100 Third at., or to the rent cleric in the buildinff. 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