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About The new age. (Portland, Or.) 1896-1905 | View Entire Issue (Nov. 23, 1901)
wsvsroflrair4Vrt iaUu ! hi yjiiw "& j THE .rE"W AGE, PORTLAND. OJREGOK. u f V . i? WV h ' -FASHIONS OF THE DAY WHAT IS BEING WORN IN SWELL DOM. Some New Thing; In Coat Bodices ricantlfut Designs for Afternoon nntl Reception Get-Ups Are Trimmed with Fnr or Lace Notes of the Mode. New York correspondence: OMUTUIXO now iu coat bodices la what most women nro after, and tailor ami dressmakers ato prodding such from which to choose. Ill nek Louis coats mode of a new woh that Is a combina tion of lace aud moug'scllnc embroid ery are worn with black net and laco skirts. Ileal guipure Is used for nholt lacs coats, and Anal ly tucked crepe dp , chine Is combined with the lace. Some coat skirts round off in front, others have sauaro corners, and la length they are between 20 and 27 inches, according to the height of the wearer. There are shorter laco coats that are very pretty and more generully becoming than are the longer ones. A cream lace coat run with black velvet ribbon had narrow gold braid with black velvet on the collar band. One side of tha front fastened down with little bows of velvet clasped with a tiny gold buckle, "which was four Inches wide. The laco had an Interlining of white chiffon, of which were the underaleoves. All these arc new notions, and others are a-plenty, because- froo Hccnso Is given to modify to taste nil manner of coat suggestions. A brand new design appears iu this In itial picture, its basque linek being fin ished, to match skirts and fronts, with applique of willow green velvet and sll- STYLISH USK ver embroidery. Tho goods was oyster broadcloth. Basques are especially abun dant among tailor costumes. They are of nil lengths, tho range being from tiny tabs to flowing basques of Louis coats, and often aro tho most striking feature of the entire costume. Fur trimmings, are appearing on thf gowns and designs submitted to fashion able women, especially on afternoon ond reception get-ups. Delicate biscuit cloth elaborately trimmed with lace and Alaska sable makes n pretty combina tion. The various shades of blue, gray, red and biscuit or tans look well when trimmed with dark furs. Ulack caraculo and black fox and bear aro put Into trim mings. Lace docs not lessen iu quanti ty, and some of the latest models are elaborately trimmed with heavy cream lace. It Is put on In bands or medallions, nnd is used in collars, revers or berthas. Some new model gowns are tilmmed with large collars and revers, while otheis show berthas and pelerines. At the loft In the second picture Ushown a use of cluny lace on gray crepo do chlnn. Though collar and heading for skirt flouneo often constitute a gown's lace trimming, there Is no monotony In the arrangement becauso of the great variety of designs. Velvet waists to match tho dress goods nre Included with many handsome cloth gowns. Dark gray, a blue that Is almost black and all the creamy tints of beige are stylish. A Russian wool laco is ouo of tho trimmings, but Is used very spar ingly. The high-necked theater gown is very attractive. It is made both of whlto and tinted cloths, of crepo de chine, barege, veiling, sllK and lace. unite taffeta embroidered In a very open pat tern is a very pretty fabric employed for this style of gowu. The embroidery forms half of the skirt, extending up the front nud the greater part of the bodice. Some of the materials for these gowns are quite as thin and delicate In coloring as any worn during summer. Some of the crepe de chine gowns are charming when trimmed with velvet ribbon of the came color. This is a new Idea, and a very stylish one. Boleros and etons for these gowns are usually of applique work or some handsome lace. Gowns, Includ ing the stylish velvet waist, usually have boleros, etons or coats of cloth. Two examples of these suits are pictured here. The seated figure shows red broad cloth, with Inner collar aud revers of black velvet, nnd with piping and straps of white cloth; the standing figure a light brown ladles cloth, ktitched and em broidered In dark brown,' the jacket be cured by silk, frogs aud loops of color to match. The first velvet bodice was red, Uu ecor4 was a biscuit shade. m v nlfJPf4 m Velvet in all sbgdes Is used extensively for hats and hat trimmings. The light tints are for evening aud receptions, with flowers, handsome plumes, lace or fur add ed. The all-fur hat has rather a wide brim, usually faced with some delicate sha,de of chiffon or panne velvet, and is trimmed with wreaths of flowers, lace and cut steel. All dark furs aie used, Hudson Buy sable being the handsomest and most expensive. Large soft felts trimmed with lace and feathers nre to be worn. The felt Is soft and pliable, easily knocked Into any picturesque shape, and is trimmed with a bunch of ostrich Illumes to match the felt and with baud some Russian or Irish crochet lace, ills cult felt trimmed with cream lace had biscuit feathers Is the latest shade In felt and looks charmingly. Trl-eornered hats trimmed with pompons and rosettes of velvet or Loulslne satlu are very stylish and generally becoming. The latest nov elty Is white tucked felt, the brim faced with black or bright colored vehet aud trimmed with straps and rosettes of same shade of velvet. In to-day's second pic ture Is another type of trl-coinered white felt, with edging and pin wheel of black vehet, the latter's loops caught with steel ornaments. Kimhlon Notes. For half mourning or the woman who wears violet there Is n circlet of violets and chiffon to match, for the hnir, with the flowers and chiffon massed n little more closely at one side of the front. The fancy striped velvets used for trimming arc very beautiful In coloring nnd are' combined with satin-faced cloths, lighter wool fabrics and silks, which in plain colors arc coming In again for en tire gowns. For the woman who wears crape beau tiful things are made for the neck, and a boa of crape has dignity and distinction. One of these Is made very simply of the crape, with the edges of the material drawn up to form a line of simple' puff ings around the boa. While gray suede Is the most desirable leather this season, especially for accom panying "high toilets," many women, de siring to make n difference between their dress adjuncts and those for every day, ' hnvc accorded quite high favor to pigskin, OF CLOTHS, in its natural dull jellow tint, for ordi nary use. Muffs with plaited ends frequently have the top rows of the plaiting brought up over the top of tho muff, where they meet, and are held with a bow or n big brass buckle. One black muff has the plaltlngs held with a black velvet bow, and from thls.curled cuds of the plaiting hang for five or six Inches. For blouse waists, suits for the small girl and many other purposes there nre beautiful plaids, checks and stripes in the tartan colors. Tho stripes iu these goods are exceedingly pretty and will make charming waists, pleasing the wom an who likes the combinations of the Scotch colors but does not wear plaids. Fashion seems to fancy Just now long streamers at the back of the large car riage hat. These may bo of either satin or velvet ribbon and nro youthful aud pretty on a broad-brimmed hat which Is trimmed with ostrich feathers. A black velvet hat may be trimmed quite simply with theso long ends of ribbon and jet seem as elaborate and effect he as the wearer could wish. Boas appear with all costumes. All are large and fluffy looking, being made very' full. Black or white tulle Is a fa vorite material. These ruffs are laid in deep plaits with long, stole-IIko ends caught up Into puffs with velvet or tulle. Many pretty boas for wear with evening toilets nre composed entirely of large flower petals. Worn "with n reception gowu or pink gauze was a boa or rote spangled with tiny silver sequins, Whllo here and there hat trimming and ornaments 'for the hair raise their heads, "low bridge" is the cry of the hour. Charming things Jn hair ornaments show this. There Is a tendency to cir clets, nnd one very lovely one is of white pearls with two algrets, not standing, but lying almost flat, one to the right and the other to the left from' the center of the front. Black algrets are also worn with tho several strands of pearls which encircle the coil. These hair ornaments are not made for low styles of coiffure, rium velvet Is being used liberally Jn making up dress hats for visiting cos tumes or for what are called carriage bats. These usually follow the broad, low lines Introduced in millinery at New port last summer, in which brim and crown aro not distinguishable at short distances. The richest make of velvet is used In carriage hats, and this Js often In plum color. One plum-velvet carriage hat has strips of cloth used as trimming ou tho brim, just as formerly a milliner would hate put a velvet band on the cloth hat. Some velvet hats have binding of stitched bands. t Mrs. Ida White. 84 North Sixth street, neent for Scott's Magic Hair Grower and Strnlghtener. Call at 148 North Sixth street for all kinds of gentlemen's furnishing goods, watches, Jewelry of all kinds, eye glasses. F. Burnhard, proprietor, Portland, Oregon. , The Graham Manufacturing com pany manufacture all kinds of fur niture, woodwork nnd fixtures. Oro gon 'phone, Hood 202. Nos. 370, 372, 37-1 Front street, corner Montgomery, Portland, Oro. The Provident Department of the Mutual Rcservo Fund Life Associa tion of Now York lssuo policies that combine investment with protection. Theso contracts aro sold for nmounts as low as $250.00, and payments nro mado monthly. All policies give automatic protection after tho third year and aro subject to caBh loans, cbbIi surrender, values or extended in surance. HOWARD N. LINDSLEY, Manager. Rooms C04 and COS Orcgonlan Oldg. INVEST IN OIL STOCK. Now Is tho tlmo to buy shares of tho Archuleta Oil Company, becauso very shortly it will bo fully demon strated whether their stock Is worth nothing per share, or worth 15.00 and more per share. Tho drill Is purchased nnd will soon ponctrnto tho oil deposits, and then the stock will cither bo withdrawn from tho market or olso go away up in valuo. Tho stock Is 10 cents per shnro now. Address elthor personallyor by lot tor, J. H. Hawley, stock broker, No. 2 Chamber of Commerce building. Port land, Oregon. PALMIST AND ASTROLOGER. You Hold in Your Hand ail Dnmo Fortune Promises for Your Future. With n longing to know wlmt tlio future holds for thorn or n desiro to teat tlio scienco of palmistry, thous ands of people have taken advantago of tho gifts of Linn Wnrdoll. This wonderful hand and character reader has had a remarkable lifo history, traveling through nearly all tlio civil ircd countries of tlio world. She, I has foretold destinies of many prominent mon and womon, botli in Europe and America. With a natural desiro for travoling and adventure, Miss Wurdol has successfully mastered 11 vo lan guages, each of which alio lias often occasion to bring into uto. Avail yourself of tlio opportunity to visit this gifted woman wliilo in tho city. Fco within rcacli of nil. Olllco hours from 10 A. M. to 9 P. M. Homo all day Sunday. Parlors 8 and 0, Calumet, Sovcnth nnd Alder streets. Portland, Oregon, SHERIFF'S SALE. By virtue of an order of salo execution duly issued out of and nnd under tlio seal of tho circuit court nil tho stato of Oregon for tho county of Multnomah, to mo duly directed and dated tho 8th day of November, 1001, upon n judgment aud decrco rendered aud entered in said court on tho 1st day of November, 1001, in favor of tlio United states Investment corpora tion, Limited, a corporation, plaintiff, and against Robert Mcintosh and Matilda Mcintosh, defendants, for tlio sum of $1,000.03 in U. S. gold coin and tho further sum of $ lfiO.OO attor ney's fee and tlio sum of if 11.40 costs and disbursements, I did on tlio 8th day of November, 1001, duly levy upon tho following described real property situated in tho county of Multnomah, stato of Oregon, to-wit: Lot 12 in block "B" in Willamotto Heights addition to tho'city of Portland, and will in compliance with its com mands, on Tuesday, tho 17th day of December, 1001, at tho hour of 10 o'clook A. M., at tho front door of tho county court houso in tho city of Portland, said county and state, sell. at public auction, to tlio highest bid dor for U, S. gold coin, cash in hand, all tho right, titlo and interest that tho said defendants, or either of them, had on tlio 11th day of March, 1001, tlio date of plaintiff's mortgago, or have sinco had in or to tho said real proporty, to satisfy said judgment, decreo and execution, with interest on 11,000.03 from tlio 1st day of November, 1001, at tlio rato of sovon per cent per annum, and on $11)0 from tho 1st day of November, 1001, at tlio rnto of six per cent per annum, and the costs of and upon said writ. Dated, Portland, Oregon, Novem ber 15, 1001. WILLIAM FRAZIER, Sheriff of Multnomah County, Oregon. First publication, Nov. 10. Last publication, Deo. 14. The Pioneer Paint Co. Tho firm of F. E. Reach & Co., corner of First and Aldor streets, is the oldest established concern in the paint and oil business in tho Northwest. For over 20 years this houso has maintained its reputation for roliablo business dealings with all patrons. F. E. Reach & Co. car ry tlio highest grades of paints, oils and varnishes. They also handlo all builders' materials, and no order is too small to receive prompt atten tion, B. W. DE OUR, E. D.ZIEHEl.. President. Vice 1'reit, and Mgr. N. A. STRONG, Sec'y and Treat. Thm Tontlnm Saving Ammoclmtton Incorporated. Home offices, New York Life Building, Mlnueajolli, Minn. Omfiltml Mtoek 0100,000. Paid to Contract Holder! In Portland for Week Ending Nov. 33, 13.&-0W. , J, r. OL8EN, State Agent, Oregonian Building. Portland, Oregon on(E General Information Concerning the Afro-American. TAKEN TROM OUR VARIOUS EXCHANGES Showing the Progress of the Va'lous Lbwi of Human Endeavor Being Accom plished by the Race. PRESENT NEEDS. Tho Bookor Washington solution of tho Negro problem is, in brief, to bo educate the colored man as to make him a more elllcient laborer. Indus trially educated ho may become ecU supporting, and, by adding to tho productive capacity of tlio country, prove an clement of national strength. The Negro must dupend ou his hands rather than his head; aud for this reason the industrial instruction ho gets at Tuskegeo is helpful. Thcro was novor a worso mistako than to arm a man with the right of suffrage who was uncultured ns to his hands and incapable of that intellectual poise and development which are needed for self government. Tho Philadelphia Record. Colored men mado their gravest imstakes in opposing Mr. Washing ton's theory, which is but tho theory oi aii prosperous people. Tlio wage men greatly exceed tho oloss that livo by its brains. Tlio caroless obsorvor would think othcrwiso owing to tho prominent and continuous advertis ing of tho results of tho brain, giving rise to tho theory that beyond the class of learned mon thcro aro no oth ers. This theory has been too eager ly rccoivcd'by tho raco when couhhI ored in lolation to those portions of other races similarly situated. To stride amid tho stars has been too studiously cultivated when duty abid ed at our feet. Tlio trades, tho shops, the Holds aro tho bont of tho white masses. Now nnd then tho fields will furnish a Lin coln, tho canal tow-path a Gurllold and a tannery a Grant. Theso aro illustrious illustrations of tho possi bilities of Ainorican lifo. Thoy are held up ns such and not that every iron worker should allow tho embors to sleep at tho forgo, or tho fieldsman to allow tho plovNsharo to rust in tho furrow, whilo thoy chased somo ignis fatuus or will-o'-the-wisp. Thcro may he somo truth in tho assertion that menial capacities aio hold out on tho part of tho whites as tho placo for the colored people But Mr. Washington is not advocating such an education; ho is talking in dustrialism, that samo industrialism in which white men aro engaged as ton to ono to tho professions. lo bo prepared well for tho menial capacities, admitting that it is tho desire, would bo far bettor than edu cating to somo falso hopo that ends in disfranchisements, mob justice and raco humiliation. Great souls will not bo knitted down by ties of any kind. They will etoape any manner of bondage by reason of inherent strength, liko tho cfenpo of Frederick Douglas. Such a force, such forces, will bo recognized in tho society of tho world willy nilly. In this struggle tho fiercest of wiucn sinco slavery days, is now on; it will nny to look backward. Watch tho progress of other nations from tho slough of despond to opulenco, to influonco. Evolution knows no short cuts no royal roads. THANKS FOR THAT MUCH CREDIT. Governor Chandler, of Georgia, in replying to a telegram from a Now York nowspapor, regarding tho edu cation of tho Negro in tho South, said that tho Negro could not bo brought to tho lovol of tho whito man, and many other things dorogatory to tho character of tlio Negro. Gavo tho raco this much cordit by saying: "Individual mombors of tho raco will riso to tho level of tho whito man." Ho will pleaso accopt our thanks, for ho is of tho Tillman stripo. COMING ATTRACTIONS. "A Lion's Heart," which opons at Cordray's theater Sunday, November 21, is ono of tho- very few productions of recent years that has an interesting plot that does not depend on all sorts of absurd mechanical doviccs to hold tho attention of its hearers, nud that has an abundant supply of heart in terest, tho ono quality that is essen tial to tho lasting success of any piece. Tho mechanical sort may bo profitable for a time through tho ad vertising of ono eenstional cpisodo, but for it to become a lasting success it must have something that will in struct and entertain as well as thrill its audience. "A Lion's Heart" lias a story that runs tho gamut of human emotions, hut is at tho sumo time co herent and probablo, and whilo it is filled with stirring climaxes they aro never of tho'cheap or trashy ordor and aro rcuohod by porfectly natural methods, An exceptionally strong company lias been engaged for this tour, headed by America's representa tive romantio actor, Carl A. Hnswin, supported by Sum II. Vernoy, Currol Daly, Olios. P. Rico, Fred Eckhart, Graco Welby, Blancho Carlylo and a host of othors. Thanksgiving and Saturday matinees. Tho proprietors of the Oregon Bakery, corner Fourteenth and Fland era 8ts,, Portland, are both old and ex perienced bakers, men who woro fore men in the beat shops onthecoast.and who make a auperlor loaf of bread of any kind. Pullman loaves a special tf. . ' THE N.EW AGE. Established 1890. A. D.Grltnn, Malinger. Office, 'Jr2JBtnrk Street. Concord Uulldlng, Portland, Oregon. AGENTS. O. A. lUttcr Portland, Oregon V. J. Whcnton Helena, Montana To Iniura publication, all local licwnmuit teach us not later tlinu Thursday morning o( em'h ucnlr. ' each week. scrlptlo vancc. CITY NEWS S. 11. Bottis continues to Improve is about Gluts. Millors' tho same. condition Mr. T. D. Thomas is on tlio sick list, tlio result of a severe cold. Mrs. O. Glonn loft Tuesday ovoning for a visit to her fathor in Roslyn, Wash. Wo learn that Mr. formerly of this city, benedict. Eliok Waters, 1ms bocomo n Mr. Win. Cox is quito ill with pul monary troubles at his homo on Evorott street. Tho quarterly mooting of tho Afri can M. E. church has been postponed until Dccombcr 1. Mrs. Maria Jackson is still quito sick nt the rcsidonco of hor daughter, Mrs. Edward Thompson. Mrs. R Harman left Sunday ovon ing for Los Angeles, whoro hor mother lies nt tho point of death. Mr. Cha8. Bavago, of tho Hotel Portland, is sulVcring witli a slight attack of rheumatism. Wo aro pleased to noto tlio foot that Mr. Win. Olfln, whoso sickness was mentioned last wcok, has recovorcd. How about tho Hawks' masquorado at the Forresters' hall ou tho 20th iust. Will you bo thorc. Lots of fun. Mr. John Perkins, of Topoka, Kns , brother-in-law of Mrs. Henry Thomp son, spout a few days iu tho city this week. Mr. Arthur Carttvright, of Wash illL'ton. 1). O.. was thn minut rif Mrs. 1). Newman for a couple of (lays this wcok. Mr. J. Floronco has moved his fruit and cigar stand to 332 Glisan street, whoro ho will bo pleased to sorvo tho public Mr. Waldo Boylo, of Walla Walla, left this wook for homo, nftor a short visit to his cousin, Mrs. M. Allen, of this city. Mrs. Henry Perry, who underwent a serious operation at tho Good Samaritan hospital, has returned homo nud is improving slowly. Wo loarn that Mr. Philip Jenkins, lately of this oity, lias taken unto hlniHol a wife aud will reside at tlio Old Folks' Homo in California. Wo fail to hear of anyono who does not expect to attend tho celebration of tho 17th anniversary of Now North west lodge at G. A. It. hall Decem ber 13. Tho Lucy Thurinau Leaguo of tho W. O. T. U. and tho L. T. L. will hold a union meeting at tho A. M. E, Ziou church tho third Sunday in December. It is rumored that thoro will bo vesper services hold tho first Sunday iu December at tho A. M, E. Zion church, All lovers of good music should attend. Call on Geo. Kiser for tho Novem ber number of tho Colored Ainorican magazine, only Ifi cents, It should bo in tho home of ovory colored American in tho country. Mt. Olivet Baptist church gavo a pleasant social Friday of this week. An onjoynblo program was rendered Refreshments wero on salo and an en joyablo timo was had by thoso present. A full attendance of tlio members of tho Afro-American Council is do sired on next Tuesday ovoning at tho Bethel A. M. h. church, as questions of vital interest to the raco aro to ho presented. Fifteen cents will givo you admis sion and a basket of lunch at the basket picnic to bo given Thanksgiv ing evening, November 28, at the A. M. E. Zion church, Thirteenth and Main streets, January 1, 1002, tlio Afro-American Council will hold their annual cele- hration. Tho committco in olmrgo aro earnestly at work on tho same, de termined to mako it more of a success than over before. Mr. Henry Thompson, of 35 N. Seventh street, had the misfortuno to fall into tin open basement Monday last and broko ouo of the bones of tho foro arm. Ho will be incapacitated for work for several weeks. Mr. C. J. Watson loaves Saturday for Washington, 1). O., to visit his mother who is very ill. Owing to his Biiddon departure, Mrs. Wators, who has spent tho past six months in San Francisco, will postpone her return homo till a later dato. Tho Sacramental service held at tho A. M. E. Zion church was a suc cess. Tho services woro woll attend ed. Tho sonnon on "Giving," preached by Rev. W. T. Biggors, was ropleto in thought and delivery and showed tho speaker to bo quito a theologian. W. R. Peek and Win. Brown, lately of Chicago, aro stopping with Mr. F. D. Thomas. Thoy expect to locate hero if thoy find omploymonti Mr. Brown, after an absouco of about 10 years from Portland, finds many changes, but thinks tho weather about tho samo as when ho left. Tuesday ovoning a largo numbor of friends of Mrs. 11. Boylo, who is visit ing Mrs. Lizzie Watorford, tondorcd hor a surpriso party. Songs, musia and games enlivened tho evening and aftor partaking of a bountiful lunch eon, tho merry party wended their ways homeward, wishing tho honored guest a pleasant visit while in tho oity. Services will bo hold at tho African M. E. church no.xt Sunday as follows: Class meeting at noon; Sunday saliool, l r, M. ; Uliristaln Endeavor, 7 P. JL, subject, "Thanksgiving," led by Bro. Mitoholl; preaching, 11 A. M., subject, "Do;" preaching, 8 P. M., subject, "Ondorstanding." Will you pleaso coino and allow us to interest you. W. T. Biggore, Pastor. Sunday appointments nt tho A. M. E. Zion ohurch, corner Main and Thirteenth streets aro: Proaohiug. 11 A. M. and 8:30 P. M. Subject for evening service, "Tlio Consolation of Thi-hhI " hvoning musical program, All Hail tho Power of Jesus' hvnin. Nanioj" "Alas, and Did My Savior Bleed ;" anthem, "I Am Not Ashamed of Jesus;" uiithom, "Jesus, Lover of My Soul." Class mooting and Sab huth hohool after morning service Strangers all welcome. J. W. Wright, Pastor. Tho entertainment given nt tho Bethel A. M. E. church under tlio leadership of Mr. F. I). Thomas, was a decided success, both financially and otherwise A largo number wero in attendance both Thursday and Friday nights. On Thursday evening at tho Old Folks' Concert, "Tho Ton Virgins" was a decided hit. Mrs. F. I). Thomas mado an ideal bridegroom . and carried the, audience by storni, both by her actions aud thu molodl- ous tones of her well trained voice. "Tlio Houso of Industry" also de serves Hpeoial mention. Friday ovon ing each number desorved special mention. In the midst of so much oxcellutico it is hard to pick out sep arate parts. Refreshments wero served each night and the committco has just causo to feel proud of tho huccomh of its efl'orts. In this con nection wo must not omit to speak of tlio ladies' zobo band, which was u feature of the second evening's enter tainment, DO YOU LIKE DIAMONDS? Tho Tontine Savings Association, witli homo offices iu Now York Lifo Building, at Minneapolis, Minnesota, has established offices iu tho Oregon ian building, room 211, with J, F. Olson as state agent. This association presents a special co-operative plan in tho form ofcontraots fur tho salo of diamonds. Theso precious stones aro sold ou installments. Tho plan is simple; the terms aro reasona ble; tho results nro always satistao tory. Tho Tontine Savings Associa tion has been in tho mutual invest ment business sinco 1801. Its suc cess has been phonomoual. Its pat rons aro always pleased. Thoy sull'or no oliauco for lo.s, Heo Agent Olson t aud investigate tho plan. PRINCE MALL LODGE No. 65, A. P. & A. M. Q Regular communications first and third Mondays of each mouth, in Caledonia hall, cor- nor Stcond aud Yamhill streets. All M, M. in good standing invited. T. BOLKN, W. M. R. A. MOORE, Seo'y. '. it J M A' i,mi L M:VjUt-Jh-4b-rt ' syflMiiiiiwnii wmmJ