The new age., March 24, 1900, Image 8

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THE NEW AGE, PORTLAND, OKEGKXff.
flEy EVEJNLXG WfiAPS
THERE SEEM TO BE SOME VERY
NOVEL NOTIONS.
Tfc knyei-on-Lnyer DealK'l la No
longer the lineln on Which All Oar
menU of ThU Sort Are Cormtructctl
Cloik with Bklrta Turned Up.
New York correspondence:
N evening wraps
there are several
brand new notions.
Homo of them are nut
revivals but seem to
hnve sprung frcih
from the Ingenious
bruins of the design
ers. For several sen-
sons the layer-oii-luy-icr
design hns been
the basis of nil now
I sort, but this jeitr
the cloaks nre more
often divided Into
lmnols, n style mure
becoming to the av
erage figure nnd lend
ing Itself to long
clouks with better
success. The wry
Intest cry, however,
Is n belted lone clunk
with Its nklrts turned up to fit under the
rdge of the shoulder yoke or drapery,
thus tnnklng n bag nil around t tint serves
for sleeves. The Idea Is absolutely new,
and Its vnrlntlons arc almost endless.
ttSr D
ffw AVJ
jyXKvEiTC
A
M 1
SkeH
FUOM TIIKNK HUMMHK l'l.UFl'KUIKS MAY BIMtlNO.
Ilesldes, the clonk Is cosy nnd warm, nnd
Its big bag of sleeves may serve to pocket
sway slippers, extru gloves nnd handker
chiefs, the bag that holds the opera
glasses or the powder puff. A very pret
ty model of this sort appears here. The
TcryuiJUjyj)tuau -xcnlkcjL jUuiL. n. !
ynuces ciohk clinging an me way uown
may make her a bit like n beau polo. To
such a figure the sleeved clonk Is a
blessing, Very baggy sleeves that nre
hardly more than big hunches of drapery
rvcnpe below the shoulder scarfing or
Antoinette hood folds Hint mark the edge
of the yoke, Hitch fullness only empha
sises the slenderuess of the sweeping out
line in the rest.
The mntcrlnls lu the example sketched
vtvro white broadcloth, while sutlu bro
caded lu pink and green, and white lace.
The variety of materials lu new wrupi Is
greater Itimi is usual. Combinations of
rich stuffs appear lu nearly nil the swag
ger clonks. White cloths overlaid with
Ince or with npplhiue of tnfTetn silk com
bine stunningly with chiffon or liberty
Ilk much crinkled and mounted on n
foundation of net. lu ninny cases the
EimiT OP A THOUSAND SOUTS.
cloaks that look so Unlit ami llufTy are
really floating from a foundation of
chamois, or even ou an lutcrllnliii: of fur.
The group of the shorter wraps that Is
pictured here shows plainly that more I
to be got out of au evening wrap tlutn
uueculy statollness. If that Is desired,
thru the lung sweeping cloak Is the me
dium. Hut for richness, Ingenuity and
elaborations thut are characteristically
frmliiiiic, the more fanciful short wraps
are preferred, There are many horis.
Borne are cut In long points front ami
back, aud are slashed at the sides so the
arms cau escape. ThU Is a very conwu
lent style. Others that follow the still
popular fashlou of sweeping length at
the back and a roundlug up to the ueck
faslenliig in front, are lluished In front
with long srarfs to fill completely the
apace that otherwise might he ohmi. The
cloak of the tint design Is sometimes
elaborated to half length by a deep
tlouurt' (lowing trout under the bag sleeve.
This flounce wis out over the skirt truce
fully, Botue of the haudsomest cloaks of
the season arc all black, and the auto
mobile in ninny variations is adapted to
evening wear with excellent results.
As to the mntcrlnls of this quartet; the
first had white cloth In the sleeves, nnd
in the yoke the white cloth was covered
with crenm Ince. Shoulder drapery nnd
streamers were black panne velvet. Next
to this Is put n handsome combination
of corn-colored liberty satin nnd white
sntln embroidered In gilt. The third In
the row was sketched lu tea-colored satin
finished cloth embroidered in pale green,
with yoke of smocked white chiffon. Be
low this the pulling was of plain cloth.
I he Inst tnudcl had a cape portion of fig
ured violet velvet, with ruffles of a light
er shade of violet chiffon and with
streamers to match. With lighter mate
rials nnd without' protective Interlining,
these general fashions arc likely to hold
for some time. Hummer evening duffer
led will, In m liny Instances, be trnccnble
to these Into winter fancies.
While skirt nnd bodice to match have
Indorsement from elaborate dressers, the
separate waist Is still stylish for certain
ubos, It probably always will be liked
for wenr nt thenter and table. For these
wnlsts there nre styles enough, goodness
knows! and vnrlntlons on styles, but Just
now mnterlnl Is the main point. Tuffetn
showing lines of hemstitching, and silk
nnd sntln stenciled uut lu designs of vary
lug elaborateness, the openings often
corded nrotind the edges, or finished with
what looks like buttonholo stitch, nre
very pretty. Tucked tnfTetn with Inser
tions of lace, nnd silk muslins with rows
of puffings scpnrnted by lines of corded
stltchlngs, these nre some of the ninny
elaborate arrangements. In general, the
lines of the figure nre followed pretty
L? i
closely, but there are no darts. Fronts
nre till straight, and belts are drawu very
low.
The yoke Is not displaced. It appears
In all depths, either set over the bodice
that Is, Its edge overlapping the materia!
uf,thtt boiliccr-or jvA.unikr. .the cut-out
edge. These yokes very often continue
their line over the shoulder. Where they
do not, the shoulders usually take on
squareness from tucking, puffery or other
trimming at the top. Kvcn when the
sleeve Is perfectly plain at the tup the
shoulders arc built out square. Fash
lounble folk hnve not yet allowed thnt
narrow, nipped look to come In that mar
red the Inst ern of plain sleeves. Many
separate bodices fasten Invisibly at the
side or under some Hickory In front that
Is duplicated nt each side so It has no
especial significance. Others fastcu
frankly nt the side, the opening running
from the shoulder to the front of the
belt usually. Another sort fastens down
the front. These usunlly nre turned away
at the throat In pretty rovers that expose
the dicky yoke. In some cases there Is
n front panel or wnlstcont piece let In,
nnd the bodice fastens at one side of this.
Very often the joke has a prolongation
lu front that reaches to the belt aud un
der this the fastening Is arranged. Of all
very few frankly expose uuttous.
Where stitched, tucked ami lace Inser
tion materials are so easily applied to
waists, there Is some distinction ulwut a
bodice so trimmed that It Is evident the
tucking or other elaboration was done
lu the process of making the garment.
Such show lines of pulling or of Insertion
that follow the curving of the body, or
display tucks of different slxe lu differ
ent parts of the garment. It I not safe
to wear a ready-made bodice without
haviiiK It altered to tit, because perfect fit
Is required, The chief sign of the perfect
bodice Is a flat back that draws the shoul
ders back, not only because it pulls tight
from shoulder to shoulder, but because
It pulls lirmly from the uape of the neck
to the belt line.
Copyright, 1W0,
Patronise those who advertise.
BARBER TO FOUR MILLIONAIRES
Thorn aa Whalen Shaves Armour, Fair
bank Allertou and Field.
ThomnB Wlmlcn shaves four million
aires a day. Ho makes thu round of
Ihelr residences every morning and
uses his own fast pacer to savo time.
They all pay him a liberal salary and In
turco hours each morning ho earns
more than the average barber does In
four days.
Mr. Whalen's clients are. P. D. Ar
mouv, S. W. Allerton, Marshall Field
and N. K. Fairbanks They employ him
by the year, and his salary continues
whether they arc In Europe, Now York,
California or Chicago. Ills contract
calls for a dally shavo In Chicago, and
If tho millionaires' chins nre not to bo
found, Whnlon Is not the sufferer. Ills
"pull" Is said to be of the gentlest but
his fellow barbers declaro It Is very
strong, and besides tho salary he gets
thcro is always a liberal Christmas
present.
Tho salaries paid are as follows:
Mr. Armour, S75 per mouth; Mr.
Field, $75; Mr. Allerton. $30, nnd Mr.
Falrbank, $35. All of these gentlemen
have their private barber shops, and
Mr. Whalen has the running of them.
Ho keeps each supplied with the finest
rnzors, shears, strops, soaps, mugs, and
other requisites of a first-class tonsorlal
parlor. Ho knows the turn of every
whisker of his patron, and thero Is
never any kick nbout rneors with a
"pull."
Ills labors begin early. Mr. Armour's
homo Is his first stopping placo, though
recently, during that gentleman's resi
dence In California, bo has not been
getting up so early. Mr. Armour has
always shaved by tf o'clock and often
earlier. From thcro It Is only a block
to Mr. Field's Prnlrlo avenuo mansion,
and Just across the street, u little to tho
south, ho finds Mr. Allerton ready for
his dally scrape. But to reach Mr.
Falrbank ho must mnkc a big Jump to
tho North Hide, and his fast pacur
conies In good uso. Cars are too uncer
tain, and Mr. Falrbank cannot bo kept
waiting or disappointed, nnd before 0
o'clock Whalen Is nt tho Lako Shoro
drlvo resilience, ready for Mr. Fnlr
bank to coino to tho private barber
shop.
"Tom" Wlmlcn Is ono of tho be it-
known barbers In Chicago, no has
mado a competency out of his work,
nnd his Incomo now Is by no means
beggarly, averaging close to $3,000 for
tho year. Ills last shop was In tho
Methodist church block. This ho sold
several years ago. Ho now devotes his
attention to bis four millionaire cus
tomers and several Quo horsesi Chi
cago Inter Ocean.
San Worship.
The most complete system of sun
worship that we havo any account of
was that existing In Peru when dlscov
ercd by the Spaniards In 1520. The
Incas, as tho Peruvian monarchs -were
called, claimed to be children of tha
sun and his representaTfves onertbi
Their government was a despotic theoc
racy, of which tho Inca was both high
priest and king. In Cueco, the capital,
stood a splendid temple to the sun, In
which nil tho Implements wore of solid
gold. On tho west end of the Interior
was a representation of tho sun's disk
and rays In tho same precious metal
so placed that tho rising sun, shining In
at tho open cast cud, fell full upon the
image and was rotlected with dazzling
splendor. In tho plaza or square of
the temple u great annual festival was
hold at tho summer solstice. The mul
titude assembled from all parts of tho
empire, and presided over by the Inca
awaited In breathless solemnity the
first rays of their dotty to strike tho
goldon Imago In tho temple whoa thoy
all prostrated themselves In adoration.
Sacrifices, similar to thoao of tho Jows,
were offered on the occasion, and broad
and wluo were partaken of In a manner
strikingly rcscmblng tho Christian sac
rament Tho moon as tho spouse of
tho sun, tho planet Venus as his page,
tho Plolades, nnd the remarkable con
stellation of tho Southern Cross, were
minor deities. Tho rainbow and light
ning were also worshipped as servants
of the sun; and tiro, air, earth and
water wero not without adoration. In
fact, thcro was llttlo In Nature that the
Peruvians did not contrive to make a
deity.
Mr. ilobart's First Fee.
Ono of the neighbors has told how the
Vice President made his first fee as a
lawyer. He was employed to write the
will of a well-knowu manufacturer of
Paterson, who was wealthy. Asked
his fee, Mr. Hobart, the legal fledgling,
replied: "Ono hundred dollars." It
was from this that he received a sig
nificant hint how to succeed as a law
yer. Tho manufacturer was well
pleased with his attorney, and lufninj
to his desk drew out a package of bank
checks that had come In during the
regular course of business. Taking up
one for S00 he ludorsed It and banded
it to Mr. Hobart
"With this start In life," said tha
narrator of the story, "Mr. Hobart mar
ried the daughter of Socrates Tuttle,
who baa been his helpmeet through all
the years that have followed. Years
afterward Mr. Hobart learned that the
granddaughter of his first clleat was
about to be married, and that the family
had been reduced to financial straits, ne
sent to her his check for S1S0 to assist
in purchasing her trousseau, asd took
steps to provide other members of the
family with employment" Philadel
phia North American.
Killed la Spanish Ball ngku.
The average number of horse killed
In Spanish bull fights every rear ex
coeds 5,000, while from 1,000 to 1,300
bulla are sacrificed.
Glove Trade of Fraaee.
France makes nearly 3,000,OW pairs
of gleves yearly, and ef taeee laMM0
are exported - "
BUSINESS LOCALS.
Always ask for tha famous General
Arthur cigar. Xsbetg-GunstGlgsrCo.,
general agents, Portland, Or.
F. F. Thompson, dealer in tobacco,
iignrs. fruit, candies and nuts. 260 B
itroet.
Porters and waiters will give Mr.
Prod Lout, proprietor of tho Railroad
Men '8 Cigar Store, their trado when
thoy want anything in tho lino of cl
ears and tobacco.
Brady & Shorrctt, practical plumb-
srs, gaB and steam fitters. Dealers in
lead and iron pipe, gas fixtures and
plumbing goods of every description.
Jobbing dono at rcsaonablo ratOB.
All work warranted. Steam and hot
tvator-hoating a specialty. Tolophono
Oak 411. 142 First vtrcot, Portland,
Oro.
C. A. Watson, Marino Drag Store, 88
N. Thin? jtreet, Portland, Oro. Spo
oialtics: Fleckenstolu's Lung Balsam
ind Colory Seltzer.
R. H. Schwartz) druggist and apothe
cary, 325 Burniido sttoet, between
First and Second, Portland, Or.
Watts & Mntthleii, druggists, 278
Russell at., Hill block, Porltaud, Or.
Kahn Bros., dealers In hides, fun
and wool. 101 Fiont street, Portland,
Or. .
G. Daniolson, watchmaker, jewelet
and diaraond-iottor, 140 Sixth street,
Portland, Or. All work guaranteed.
Lake Charlea Honae, 89 North Fifth
itreet, Portland. Choicest branda of
wines, liquors and cigara.
rerybody smokes the celebrated
Monogram and Pandora cigars. They
have no equal.
Smyth A Howard, goneml contract
rs. Roads, bridges, trestles, munici
pal improvements, etc., Portland, Or.
Diamond Vittifled Rrlck Company,
Incorporated). Paving briok a spe
cialty. 018 Chamber of Commeroo.
Bohemian Bottling Works, sols bot
lleis of Sohlits Milwaukee Boer.
Phone Grant 821. 8S1 Stark street,
Portland, Or.
The Popular, 125 First street, bet.
Washington and Alder, Portland, Or.,
John Ecklund, proprietor. TeL Ore
gon red 084, Columbia 608. "
Portland Transfer Saloon Chaa. O.
flia-lin. proprietor. Choice wines,
liquors and cigars. 821 Glisan,
aer Sixth, Portland, Or.
cor-
Hecklngsr & Co., dealers in new and
second-hand goods, furniture, stoves,
tinware, hardware, glassware and
srockery. Bought sold and exchanged.
0 and 89 Union avenue. East Side.
Portland, Ox.
Ernest Gelaler, manufacturer and
dealer in high-grade Havana oigars and
tobacco. Salesroom and factory!
lOOJf North 81xth street, opposite
Union depot, Portland, Or. Box trade
a specialty. '
The Western Oyster Housj, Bam
Mackln, propiletor. Oyatera and
orawflsh, wholesale and retail. By
the gallon, $3; by the pint, 3S cents.
869) Washington street, between Sec
end and Third. Telephone brown 484.
The A. D. T. Messenger Co. is the old
est and best service of the kind in the
town. Readers of the Now Age, give
them tho preference,
Money to losn, on furniture, pianos,
er any good securities. Notes and
ssortgagea bought 8. W. King, room
a, Washington building.
When you build see Lewis & Lewis,
contractors and builders. Oregon Tel
ephone 1,005 Qreon. Speolsl attention
said to jobbing and repairing stairs
ind stalrbuildlng. 80? Madison street,
between Filth and Sixth, Portland,
Or.
Ring np Dr. Darling, 304)4 Morrison
itreet, cor. Thitd and Morrison, over
McAllen & McDonnell's. Office
hours, 10:80 to 13 a. m.; 1:80 to 6 p.
so. At residence, E. 84th and Bel
mont streets, morning and evenings.
Residence 'phones, Oregon, blue 875;
Colombia, 6187; office 'phone, Colum
bia 14. e
The Acorn, John Grimm, proprietor.
Fine wines, liquors and olgsrs. Wela
hard's beer on draught. Privste faaa
lly rooms. All kinds ol sandwieaes.
Phone, red 1883. Coiner Sixth and
Aakeay streets, Portland. Or.
French Dyeing and Cleaning Works.
AU work done at very moderate prices.
Dyeing and oleaning of all kinds ol
ladles' and Gent's clothing. Mourning
sloth dyed in 48 hours. J. Deleau,
proprietor, 418 Qlisaa strt
The finest plaoe In the oity to ebtala
list quality clgaraj tobacco and amok
era' artioles is that of Rosenthal
Badd, at 887 and 387tf Washlngtoa
street, between Fourth and Fifth.
Give these genial dea'ers a call whea
you wish anything iu their line. Tele
phone Main 76.
Eoenonsy SEoe Shop, 103 8d sass's
half soles, sewed, fl; Bailed, 70:
Ids, 60c; Bds, 83o. Ladies', sewed,
fSo; nailed, 60c; Ids. 86c. Best stook
aad work. A. M. Hollabongb, prop.
A, A. Unrnh, bicycle repairing.
Orsslng and outting down fraasee a
specialty. Bicyole sundries Baked
sasMl. All work gusianteed, 181
Foot at Morrison street, Portland, Or.
("UII and m ma whan tom are brekaa
Call, and eee nse whea yoa
dona. Agency lor the Inipeiial Bioy
ole; guaraateea ftw one year. Qregoa
Veae black 9811,
Kstabllshed in New York 17M.
New York, Chicago, Uoiton, Philadelphia
Denver, Portland.
DEVOE & RAYNOLDS CO.
Paints. Colors, Varnishes, Lead, Brashes,
artists' Materials, wholesale.only. No. 60 First
rtreet, corner Pine, Portland, Or, 'Phones,
Oregon lied 1853, Columbia 451.
PORTLAND LOAN OFFICE
Dak Marx, Proprietor.
M.IIfgneit Price Paid for Old Gold and Silver...
No. 74 Third Street, Near Oak
PORTLAND, OR.
Loans money on all kinds of security. Unre
deemed pledge told for amount loaned.
T B.WILD
Jobbing and Retail Dealer In
WINES AND LIQUORS
132 Third Street, Opposite Masonlo Temple.
Portland, Oregon.
m A. WOOD. '
REAL ESTATE AND PENSION ATTORNEY.
Room 10. Odd Kalians' lllllldlnff.
PORTLAND, ORB.
CuIihlSOtf & CO.
Wheat and Stock Brokers
DIRECT WIRES TO
New York Stock Exchange
Chicago Board of Trade
Second Floor, Chamber
of Commerce.
PAGE & SON
WIOLESUE FRUITS INI PIODUBE
-AND
Commission Merchants
120 Front Street, PORTLAND, OR.
Dr. Fred. A. Reisacher
DENTIST.
Orsduste of the Northwestern Unlevrslty
Dental College.
flrtt-Cliss Work ud Prleei Reiionblf
711 Doktiro IUd's;, Cor. Third A Washington. '
PORTLAND, Or. Oregon 'Phone Qreen 191
A. J. FARMER
Wholesale
and Retail
GROCER...
LOWEST PRICES IN THE CITY
Third St., Cor. Jefferson
Both Phones.
II s MM I ' IM
ST. PAUL HOUSE
Deutschss Quthsui.
rKKll II I LI., Manaxer.
Rooms With or Without Hoard, fineclsl Rstei
r the Month. Itsrroom and Bowllns Alley In
Connection. Five Blocks Irotn Stesmthlp Dock
aud Union Dopot. Open Day and Nltiht,
i, wi ana -. ivortn i mm mreet
rOKTLAND, OKtOON
Newly Renovated Neatly Furnished
1.00 and tl.BO Par Day
HOTEL OSBORN
Board for Families a Specialty!
Travelers should take "S" tirt car al
Union Depot and transfer at Yamhill
Street to East Ankncy car.
Garner fast Ash and Grand Ave,
PORTLAND,ORICON.
FOfBES-DflVlS FUEIt CO.
Coal and Wood.
Office and Yards, 1SMA3 E. Water Btreet
PORTLAND, OREGON.
Oregon Phone Union iSl, Columbia 5214
aa aaaaBBBaM lit;
Bctiswe
niTEUTK THAM-laAJKS
rm. eh aAMca-vMCNTs
mM
,, MTtrfamin
V Masieata ''IbtcbUv An"
m ai BBBMV ai -w mi
FREE
aook"uwMoMaiaj
NofeeUUpaUBtW
T !, tilrltj t.iiiSiliinll.1 AAA a
I g. . sMtcaa, rdsai LaaMs. vaaMsta7ft.C.'
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1 y y ynisHe
POUTLANU KAILWAT COMPANY.
General Office corner First and Washington St
By the lines' of this company and Its con.
nectlnns, tho Second Street Line) Portland
Traction Co.. or Fifth Street Llnoi and tho
Btilo Railway Co., alt parts of tho city can bn
reached upon tho payment ol a FIVE-CENT
FARE each way.
On tho West Bide Cars run every 10 minutes.
On the Portland & Vancouver Line, ears
leave First and Washington streets for Woodi
lawn every 20 minutes from 0 a. m. too;20p. tn.;
then every 10 minutes toOSOp. ra.j then every
80 minutes :o 12:03 a. m. On Bandar first car
leaves at 7:40 a. m.
Cars lcavo for Vancouver every 40 minutes
from 0:20 a.m. to 6:10 p, ra. on Wednesdays
and Saturdays, also at 11 and 11,50 p. m, On
Sundays first car leavcs""t 7:40 a.m.
You will savo money by buying Vancouver
round-trip tickets at the office
Office hours 8 a, m. to S p. m,; Sundays, 10 aw
m. to 12m.
O. F. PAXTON, President.
J. F. BATCIIELDER, Secretary.
.rOHTLAND TRACTION COMPANY.
(Formerly Cablo Railway.)
Operates Klcctrlo and Cablo Htreot Railway
from Union Depot up Fifth St. br tho Principal
Hotels, Postotllce, Courthouse, City Hall, elo
to Portland Heights and tho City Park. From
tho If eights can be obtained an unrivalled view
of the city, rivers, surrounding country and
mountain ranges, with tho snow-capped sum
mlts of Mounts, Hood, Adams, St, Helens and
Ranter.
Cars run every 7 1-9 minutes.
f First car leaves Union Depot at 6:37 a. as.
First car leaves Portland Heights at 0:35 a.m.
Last car leaves Union Depot at 11:30 p. ra.
I.ait car leaves Portland Heights for depot at
11 p. m. Last car leaves Portland Heights (or
power-house at 11:50 p, m. Transfers at Fifth
and Washington 8trects with Portland Rail,
way Co.'s lines and East Side Railway Co. line.
c.
O. TINORY
MANUFACTURING JEWELER.
Diamond Setter. Repairing neatly done.
Any design of Jewelry mado to order.
Upstairs over The Famous, Corner Soeon4
and Morrison streets, Portland, Or,
n W. ARIS3
F. W. ARI63 & CO.
Wholesale Brokerage nnd Commission)
No. 65 Front Street.
Columbia 'Phono 249.
Portland, Or.
pOSMOl'OLITAN HOTKT,
C. 11. I1ATKMAN, Proprietor.
Itooins, 11.00 to $2M per week.
M North Third Htrcet, Corner Davis.
rOKTI.AND,Or.
Imom & Go.,
FINEST QUALITY
Hams
Lard
When once you use these
yoa will And theyrf'sf'
finest flavored gooder nif
n V-
fifth and Couch Sts.
USE LUCKEL'S
Borax Soap
For Washing: Flannels.
Will Never Shrink Nor
Harden.
TRY
ONE BAR AND
CONVINCED.
BE
JEBCH1 BURS..
Best of Goth and Work
Given at Remarkably
Low Prices by Reason of
Our Wonderfully Low
Expenses.
THE J. I. iraN CO.,
UIU AND ALIEN STS.
SUITS TO ORDER
James J. Paul
FINB
TAILORINO
THE BEST OF
CLOTH.
V lTaat Your Traia
.300 THIRD ST
N. HODGSON & CO.
PRACTICAL
flusic Dealers
e make a Specialty of Basel aad Orcksa
tra Music. Also a general Vac ol Mtaskal
Good. Stria for aM Instruments, Try
"Our HsjuMHadc" Reeds. alee fur
ahh Music fee Far rrt.irtments.
N. X. Cr. Second Yamhill (Va Stall
rOKTLAMD, OKieOM.
f
fl
X'vT.i
lift
$?-.
ayBOaawrt3J
' Vwsmssr