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Brian Medford
This hearty recipe is a perfect addition to any holiday or everyday meal.
BY BRIAN MEDFORD
I don’t keep up with the holiday baking
calendar splendidly. I never miss a Thanks-
giving, after all pie is my peak baking per-
formance, and I hit the 90% mark for Easter
and Christmas, but beyond that it’s spotty.
I’m not against baking for the holidays,
but I think of baking as an everyday experi-
ence, not as a stressful event.
One friend, who is one of the most tal-
ented bakers I know, bakes cakes for every
holiday. Even for holidays I have no clue
even exist, my friend has a special recipe
in her repertoire. Her daughter is one of the
luckiest kids I know, growing up with a year-
round calendar of holiday-inspired recipes.
Motivated by my friend, I’ve decided to
add a few new holiday treats to my baking
calendar. I’m starting with Irish soda bread.
This recipe requires just a few inexpensive
pantry ingredients. Early recipes called only
for fl our, buttermilk, salt and baking soda.
The invention of baking soda in the early
19th century was a revelation, allowing those
without ovens to bake bread for the fi rst
time. Currants and carraway seeds, which
are now customary additions, were luxury
ingredients at the time and were added later.
Traditionally, the deep cross shape cut on
the top of the soda bread before baking was
to ward off evil and protect the household.
My favorite Irish soda bread recipe uses
whole wheat fl our and adds a few frivoli-
ties including honey and old-fashioned oats.
Currants or carraway are also nice additions
to the loaf. Be sure to have plenty of salted
Irish butter ready to slather on every single
slice.
Irish s oda b read
Adapted from Felicity Cloake, Makes one
loaf.
• Three 1/2 cups whole wheat fl our
• 2/3 cup old fashioned oats
• One 1/4 teaspoons kosher salt
• 1 teaspoon baking soda
• 2 tablespoons honey
• 2 cups buttermilk
• 2 tablespoons melted butter, to fi nish
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees Fahren-
heit. Line a baking sheet with parchment and
set aside.
Place the dry ingredient into a large mix-
ing bowl and whisk together to combine.
Make a well in the middle.
Stir the honey into the buttermilk until
well mixed, then pour this into the well and,
very quickly, stir together until you have a
soft, sticky dough.
Form this into a round on your bak-
ing sheet and cut a deep cross in the dough.
Bake for 35 to 45 minutes until the crust
is deep brown and the loaf sounds hollow
when tapped underneath. Brush with melted
butter and leave to cool before serving. Eat
as soon as possible, as it doesn’t stay fresh
very long.
Brian Medford is the owner of Idlewild
Biscuits and Bakes in Astoria. He teaches
cooking classes at The Pantry in Seattle.
Contact him at blmedford@gmail.com