The daily Astorian. (Astoria, Or.) 1961-current, July 29, 2021, Page 5, Image 5

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    Continued from Page 4
Coastal. It was an event that set his future
in motion.
Chef John Newman was being honored
that year, and, serendipitously, Shaffer and
his mother were seated nearby. It didn’t
take long for his mom to introduce her son
to the chef.
“Dru’s mother was really promoting
him,” said Newman’s wife, Sandy New-
man, who was also present at the Iron Chef
event. “I thought, the poor guy, he seems so
shy. He was only 16 or 17 at the time, but
John saw something in him.”
“I knew this was a special kid,” added
John Newman. “He was quiet at first, but
the way he started talking about food and
the questions he asked overcame any ner-
vousness. His interest in food wasn’t just
something his mom wanted him to do. I
invited him to come visit our restaurant,
take a look at the kitchen, and see how it
felt.”
Newmans at 988
Shaffer and chef John Newman.
988 S. Hemlock St., Cannon Beach
Reservations required: 503-436-1151
newmansat988.com
The restaurant is open Tuesday through
Saturday.
“He encouraged me in every way,” Shaf-
fer said. “I was taking classes in Aber-
deen High School’s culinary program and
after graduation, I took a few culinary arts
classes in Aberdeen that summer. Every
once in a while, I’d get a text from John
reminding me to keep at it.”
The elder chef has had plenty of experi-
ence encouraging young people in the culi-
nary arts, serving as a long-time mem-
ber of the James Beard Foundation and the
first coach for Seaside High School’s Pro-
Start’s inaugural year. He was the culinary
instructor at Tongue Point Job Corps Center
in Astoria and returned as instructor to Sea-
side’s culinary program where his students
won the Oregon ProStart competition, send-
ing them to nationals two years in a row.
“Dru’s a bright young man,” said John
Newman. “When I see interest in a young-
ster, I don’t expect them to do a lot. Just
pay attention, and when the opportunity
arises, take it. I’d tell him, ‘Come on down
to Cannon Beach. We’re ready when you’re
ready.’”
“I hesitated,” said Shaffer. “But I had to
give it a try. Even though I knew it meant
starting out as a dishwasher.”
“Dru handled himself well,” said John
Sous chef Dru Shaffer plating food at Newmans at 988.
Newman. “He didn’t grumble about menial
jobs and soon was in the kitchen helping
out as a prep cook.”
Prep cooks assist the head chef, chop-
ping and washing vegetables and preparing
meats. They also assemble salads, breads,
sauces and dressings.
“I don’t like to overpromote someone,
but Dru was an unusual young man,” said
John Newman. “When our chef de partie,
Eric, left, I thought Dru could handle it. I
asked if he wanted to take the reins.”
A chef de partie is a station chef or a line
cook in charge of a particular area of pro-
duction in the kitchen and may be in charge
of supervising assistants or working alone.
“I wasn’t sure,” said Shaffer. “That was
a lot of responsibility.”
“Dru wasn’t entirely confident he could
handle being in charge and on his own,”
said John Newman. “But when he heard we
were going to hire someone else in the posi-
tion, who would be above him, he stepped
up. He came in early and wanted to try new
things. He was definitely ready to be our
new chef de partie.
“This last year was a challenge with
covid regulations, but we got through it.
Now that we’ve reopened, it’s been great
working with Dru. His enthusiasm is infec-
tious. It’s so fun.
“Dru has an excellent palate and such a
deft hand for someone so young. His com-
mand of the kitchen keeps our French-Ital-
ian cuisine at its consistently high level. In
three short years, it’s remarkable. But he’s
deserved this. We’re so grateful to have
him.”
“It’s so very cool to watch John and
Dru,” added Sandy Newman. “When they
take a break, they’re reading cookbooks
and sharing ideas. On the line together,
they’re so focused. The food looks beau-
tiful and tastes beautiful. I think this is the
best crew we’ve had. We don’t have to fret
so much about work. We just live it.”
“It seems like a miracle,” John Newman
said. “Summers can be so stressful, you just
have to grind it out. Being a chef is physi-
cally challenging — a job for the young and
mentally sharp. When I started out, I was
that guy. Now, I like to delegate as much as
I can. I love giving people the reins. And
Dru has taken it on.”
The Newmans laughed when asked
about a future that could include Shaffer
eventually taking over Newmans at 988.
“In the next few years, he’ll be leaving
us,” said John Newman. “I want for him
to have the experience and training that I
was fortunate to have at CIA (the Culinary
Institute of America) in New York and in
Europe.”
“I definitely have the desire to go to one
of the culinary institutes,” said Shaffer.
“Maybe New York or Portland. Then I want
to invest time to absorb more, to learn dif-
ferent wines, to travel and be immersed in
European cuisine.”
“We have so many connections, we can
help him,” said John Newman. “Maybe
after more schooling, we can find him an
ideal situation at friends in Italy.”
“We’re both so excited to see him grow
and succeed,” said Sandy Newman.
“It’s wonderful,” said Shaffer. “I was
scared to grow up. They’ve made my path
so much easier. I’m so very appreciative.
So thankful. Crazy.”
THURSDAY, JULY 29, 2021 // 5