Home Cooking Chronicles: Summer slaw
BY BRIAN MEDFORD
Growing up, I imagined what
superhero power I’d want as an
adult: invisibility; ripping through
shirts when I got angry; or acti-
vating my wonder twin power and
transforming into a shark while
my twin transformed into a tidal
wave. Unfortunately, my super-
power turned out to be the unpar-
alleled ability to stick my foot in
my mouth. It’s not what I was hop-
ing for.
I was recently invited to a bar-
becue. The sheer anticipation of it
made my pulse race. I’m that per-
son. I arrived early, looking forward
to brisket, pulled pork or ribs. What
I saw instead were cheeseburgers
and hot dogs. I was confused.
While I have nothing against
either of them (I fully expect
cheeseburgers to lead to my even-
tual demise), cheeseburgers and
hotdogs do not translate into
barbecue.
To a Southerner, having a barbe-
cue means you’re actually barbecu-
ing something. It’s always big meat
and almost always there’s sauce:
vinegar-based, ketchup-based,
Alabama mayo-based or mus-
tard-based. Anything else means
you’re having a cookout.
Unable to control myself, I told
my host, “This is a cookout, not a
barbecue.”
Inset foot. I’m confident my
host’s initial thought was “What a
freaking ingrate. This is his first and
last time at my house.”
Pacific Northwesterners often
comment to me that Southerners
are “so nice.” I’ve tried to clarify
that Southerners are not nice, we’re
polite. There is a difference. During
the cookout, I was neither.
The only redeeming element to
this story is I didn’t show up emp-
ty-handed. I brought a lovely slaw.
I had imagined it piled beside some
pulled pork — but I’m flexible.
This slaw is South Carolina
Dijon mustard style, which is my
favorite. It’s crunchy, tangy and
mayo-free.
Since the world will not change
for me, I am trying to change for it.
This slaw is perfect served beside
some big and saucy barbecued meat
or on a “barbecued” cheeseburger.
10 // COASTWEEKEND.COM
This summer slaw features cabbage, carrots, scallions and other tasty ingredients.
Summer Slaw
You can use a mandolin to shred your veggies wafer thin,
however it’s my most feared kitchen tool. Generally, I prefer
not to visit the emergency room when making slaw. A sharp
chef’s knife works just fine. You can use red or green cabbage,
or a combo. Just no mayo, please.
Ingredients
• One small head of cabbage, shredded (about 1 pound)
• Two carrots, peeled and shredded (about 1 cup)
• Four scallions, finely chopped
• ½ cup apple cider vinegar
• 3 tablespoons granulated sugar (or substitute honey)
• ¼ cup neutral vegetable oil
• 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
• 1 teaspoon dry mustard
• 1 teaspoon celery seed
• 1 teaspoon kosher salt
• ¾ teaspoon freshly cracked black pepper
• A pinch or two of red chili flakes
Preparation
Combine the cabbage, carrots and scallions in a large bowl.
Whisk together the vinegar, sugar, oil, Dijon, dry mustard, cel-
ery seed, salt, pepper and pepper flakes (if using) in a small
bowl. Pour the dressing over the cabbage mixture. Toss to coat
let set in the fridge for 15 minutes, then serve.
Brian Medford is the owner of Idlewild Biscuits and Bakes
in Astoria. He teaches cooking classes at The Pantry in Seattle.
Contact him at blmedford@gmail.com.