The daily Astorian. (Astoria, Or.) 1961-current, February 13, 2020, Page 20, Image 20

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Freshly baked
biscuits.
ABOVE Brian
Medford
takes a bite
of a freshly
baked biscuit.
A
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S
Photos by
Alyssa Evans
Continued from Page 20
from baking the things I do, which are
generally French pastries, to seeing his
style develop,” Coyle said. “He’s reinter-
preting things his family baked. There’s
a lot emphasized from his history and
background.”
Before Coyle opened her bakery, she
and Medford spent a summer together
where they’d spend two days a week bak-
ing for pop-up shops.
“They were early and long days,”
Coyle said. “He threw himself into bak-
ing with passion. He took everything really
seriously.”
During the fi rst year Coyle’s bakery was
open, Medford spent every weekend help-
ing her bake. The pair are still close.
“He doesn’t just make recipes and say
‘Oh, this is good.’ He has a very strong
sense of what he wants the end product to
be,” Coyle said. “It makes the difference
between a pretty good baker and someone
who’s excelling in what they’re doing.”
Lessons in the kitchen
When teaching, Medford encourages
students to learn the history of the dishes
they’re making.
“The South is diffi cult,” Medford said.
“I’m proud of where I’m from but not of
all the history behind the food. A lot of the
food from the South isn’t from the South.”
Learning a dish’s history can help cooks
“celebrate all the nameless cooks,” the
slaves and servants who brought many
of the South’s now-popular dishes to the
country, Medford said.
Another goal of Medford’s is to have
students learn the basic steps of creating a
dish so they can then customize their cre-
ations instead of making dishes exactly as
he does.
“I want people to understand compo-
nents and techniques,” Medford said. “The
way your momma made it is the right
way.”
One of Medford’s biggest suggestions
for cooks is to use an oven thermome-
ter. Doing so can help prevent dishes from
being under- or overcooked because ovens
sometimes don’t heat to the temperature
they’re set at, he said.
“Sometimes the oven is the bad baker,
not the person,” Medford said. “I want peo-
ple to rely on themselves, not a timer. An
oven can’t tell if things are done; you can.”
Medford’s other main suggestion for
novice cooks is to stay confi dent while in
the kitchen.
“Pastry can smell fear. When people
start getting scared, things start collapsing,”
Medford said. “Mistakes are going to hap-
pen. Food should look like a person made
it, not a machine. Rustic is beautiful.”
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THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 13, 2020 // 21