14 // COASTWEEKEND.COM
Continued from Page 7
Also a seafood market,
Hurricane Ron’s has kept
the lights on at the adjoin-
ing Tiki Bar too and has
Happy Hour every day
between 3-6 p.m. A fresh
coat of paint, a refrigeration
case and a now-enclosed
patio sporting tasteful
Native American-inspired
murals are all nice addi-
tions to the property, but
I think it’s fair to say that
Hurricane Ron’s is experi-
encing some growing pains
as it finds its footing across
town.
For instance, the seafood
case was minimally stocked
during a few recent visits
and I overhead a few cus-
tomers being redirected to
Northwest Wild Products
to seek out what they were
looking for. While there
are two outdoor tables on
Marine Drive near the front
entrance, the covered patio
is used exclusively for stor-
age and one would hope
eventually that this unique
space could offer additional
outdoor seating — though,
as previously reported in
The Astorian, it sounds like
co-owner Ron Neva’s plan
Dining Out
is to turn this area into a
crab-boiling and filleting
room.
The clam chowder is
perfectly decent: creamy
with tender clams, smoky
and sweet with plenty of
honey-cured bacon, but at
$5.50 a cup, I had to won-
der what else I was getting
at this price point. Astoria
has plenty of great chow-
ders and this one is on the
steeper side, though still
well done.
Crab-stuffed mushrooms
($14.50) didn’t fare as well.
Though advertised as com-
ing with parmesan cheese,
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this plate of seven came out
utilizing the same Mexi-
can-cheddar blend that is
sprinkled liberally on the
seafood melts. While the
crab was abundant, the
mushrooms were gummy
and giving off a lot of liq-
uid, the cheese was barely
melted and it seemed like
the whole thing could have
used a few more minutes
under the broiler.
A tuna melt ($9.75),
open-faced on baguette and
run through with a briny
bit of tartar sauce, had
more flavor than the stuffed
mushrooms.
While most burgers in
town lure you in with a
variety of toppings and
styles, Hurricane Ron’s
takes the opposite route,
focusing on the protein.
Kobe beef (1/3 pound at
$14.50), elk, water buffalo
and bison (all 1/4 pound
at $13.50). Cheddar is the
only cheese available for
an additional dollar. Wild
boar bacon can also be
added ($5). This means a
bacon cheeseburger starts at
$19.50. I chose a water buf-
falo burger for the novelty,
added cheese but skipped
the bacon. Any time I’m
paying north of $8 for a
hamburger, I expect to be
asked how I want it cooked,
but that detail was missed.
A nice crust emerged off
the griddle, but the burger
was very well done, render-
ing the exotic ground indis-
tinguishable from any other
red meat.
What did shine through
was an order of Colum-
bia River sturgeon fish and
chips ($19.50). The fish
was perfectly cooked and
the beer batter retained its
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Hungry
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Photos by Ryan Hume
LEFT: A tuna melt at Hurricane Ron’s. RIGHT: Smoked Salmon on a stick.
crisp. Smoked salmon on
a stick ($5.50 and one of
the carryovers from North-
west Wild Products. Alliga-
tor, razor clams and more
are also offered on a stick)
arrived broken and fall-
ing off its bamboo skewer.
While this did spoil any
fleeting dreams of a fishy
lollypop, the smoked
salmon had nice texture and
flavor.
I would never say that
Hurricane Ron’s doesn’t
serve quality ingredients,
especially when it comes
to local, fresh seafood. But
quality ingredients served at
a certain price point deserve
expert execution in both the
front and back of the house.
Right now, Hurricane Ron’s
is operating as a Category
One, but let’s hope it can
gather steam and reach at
least a Category Three. CW