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About The daily Astorian. (Astoria, Or.) 1961-current | View Entire Issue (Oct. 25, 2018)
12 // COASTWEEKEND.COM Coast Weekend’s local restaurant review YOLK From atmosphere to service, Yolk is flawless Rating: 503 Laneda Ave. Manzanita, Ore. 503-368-9655 Hours: Thursday-Monday 8AM-2PM Price: $$ – Most dishes in the teens Vegetarian/vegan: Worth- while Service: Competent, effi- cient, warm Drinks: Coffee, tea, juice, mimosas Review and photos by THE MOUTH OF THE COLUMBIA MOUTH@COASTWEEKEND.COM L ife sometimes goes in cycles. Let me explain. In the early aughts, I lived in Southeast Portland. I was going to school and developing persisting habits, among them a breakfast ritual: coffee, eggs, potatoes, hot sauce, more coffee, fresh bread, jam and a New York Times. Against numerous competitors, the most reliable, satisfying break- fast in the neighborhood was at Utopia Cafe, on 33rd and Belmont. The Utopia had a clear, efficient and limited mission: breakfast and lunch, cooked with care, delivered with finesse and closed by 2 p.m. Though there were flourishes, the Utopia stopped short of fancy, pretentious or twee. At the time, it was exemplary of Portland, before it became a parody. The Utopia was opened by Con- nie Calcagno, who sold the cafe in the 2000s. (The Utopia closed last year. Blame New Portland.) Calcag- no relocated to the coast and lived, for a time, happily apart from the hustle and bustle of restaurant life. Toward the end of 2017, anoth- er successful female restaurateur, Lee Vance, opted to move on. In search of the next chapter, Vance shuttered the Blackbird in Man- zanita. One of only two restau- rants I’ve awarded five stars, the Blackbird, which elevated locally sourced, seasonal ingredients, was a great loss — not just to Manza- nita but to fine dining on the coast at large. Few restaurants taste so much like the place we live. When the Blackbird space became available, Calcagno saw the potential and couldn’t resist. Of course, she knew exactly what it takes to make a breakfast joint hum. Yolk opened this spring. Trad- ing flickering candles for oodles of Corned Beef Hash. KEY TO STAR RATING SYSTEM Poor Below average Worth returning Very good Excellent, best in region Lamb Burger and Cheesy Waffle Fries. Yolk-style Huevos Rancheros. natural light, the tastefully sleek, airy and modern interior has under- gone minimal renovation. It turns out to be every bit as idyllic for breakfast as it was for dinner. Like the Utopia, Yolk does breakfast and lunch and closes at 2 p.m. Yolk also does plenty of eggs, pancakes and home fries, and bakes hearty bread from scratch. Hey, if it ain’t broke … In fact, a pair of dishes from the Utopia — the Baja and the Ba- cavao scrambles — are reprised at Yolk. I had the Baja ($13) — with chorizo, onion, tomato, cilantro, salsa and sour cream — and it took me right back to Southeast Portland. And while reinvention is not, in this case — the case of breakfast — necessary, my favorite dish at Yolk is an innovation. First, Yolk’s Huevos Rancheros ($13) trade tortillas for cornmeal cakes. The just-grilled cakes aren’t the only change that makes theirs livelier than your average Huevos Rancheros. Instead of blankets of greasy melted cheese, Yolk-style Baja Scramble. prefers crumbles of dry, salty Coti- ja. And in place of lardy refried beans, Yolk opts for lean black beans. Though there’s less fat, Yolk’s version, with a dark, pep- pery ranchero sauce, has plenty of velvety richness in its runny yolks and avocado. And here, the bright- ness of the salsa has more room to shine. Yolk’s Huevos Rancheros are a silky, fresh ecstasy. As great as the Huevos Ranche- ros are — and, really, I could go for a plate right now — there are few valleys against Yolk’s many peaks. Excellence is the norm. Topped with an egg, the Corned Beef Hash ($14) — with bell peppers, onions, potatoes, garlic and basil — features a house-made corned beef. A “touch” of cream acts as a secret weapon, making the sinewy and supple corned beef tantalizingly luscious. The Lemon Ricotta Pancakes ($10) are cozy and balanced. Two dollars more gets them packed with marionberries, and I can’t imagine them without that gooey, tart-sweet infusion. While breakfast is served all day, there are a few lunch-y options, like salads and sandwich- es. I had the Lamb Burger ($17). On a fluffy bun, the stout, juicy, hand-pressed patty was cooked an impeccable medium rare and generously dressed with soft feta cheese, lettuce and loads of very sweet caramelized onions. I was equally taken with the accompanying cheesy waffle fry, which encases a tater-tot center inside an irresistible crispy cheddar cheese crust. It’s ingenious. Everything I tried at Yolk was thoughtfully conceived, carefully executed and wholly satisfying. From atmosphere to service, Yolk is flawless — an expertly piloted, well-oiled machine. That stems from Calcagno, who’s zooming around the dining room, often in shorts, never wast- ing a step. Hers is a warm, humble vibe, and that easy expertise ex- tends to the kitchen. Yolk is in very capable hands. Which is about all one could’ve asked for when the Blackbird closed. Yolk is not only a worthy successor, but another women-run business to boot. CW
