14 // COASTWEEKEND.COM
Coast Weekend’s local
restaurant review
Readers tell me what’s what
Column by
THE MOUTH OF THE COLUMBIA
MOUTH@COASTWEEKEND.COM
FACEBOOK.COM/MOUTHOFTHECOLUMBIA
I
t’s time for another round of read-
er responses. Thanks to everyone
who wrote in.
World Cup fever
Mouth,
We’re nearly a month from the
start of the World Cup. Any recom-
mendations on viewing options? I’ll
be rooting for Belgium, so if you
do publish a column on the topic,
please include team affiliations if
they exist. It’s a strong year for
Scandinavian teams, as they have
three representatives, so I’d expect
at least one venue in Astoria that
will be enthused about that.
Thanks, Ed
MOUTH: Ed —
My first trip to Europe coincided
with the World Cup and I’ve been
hooked since.
Four years ago I remember
catching a few games at Season’s
Cafe in Cannon Beach. As for this
year, I’m afraid I haven’t a clue.
Part of the difficulty is that
2018’s Cup is being played in
Russia. As such, live matches will
be broadcast absurdly early on the
West Coast, beginning as early as
5 a.m. PST and kicking off, at the
latest, at 11 a.m. I imagine there
will be replays, but I’m not sure if
that’ll be enough to draw die-hard
fans out in public.
That said, if you’re a restaurant
or bar owner planning to show
World Cup games, let us know in
the comments.
In defense of Capricorn
Pub & Fine Foods
Online comment by whoops123,
re: Capricorn Review (May 9,
2018)
The back area is too small for
a pool table. She is making due
with the space that she has. Google
minimum space requirements for a
pool table before you condemn her
for the layout.
You are trying to make a restau-
rant out of this bar/restaurant, in
a location where good restaurants
have failed in the past. Part of that
means that she has to lure locals
in despite their hesitancy. So she
gives them a place to drink and
socialize. Then, hopefully, they
will eat and keep this yummy
restaurant alive. In the cold winter
months, indoor games such as the
pool table, foosball and darts do
exactly that.
You didn’t call attention to the
fact that she is serving much later
than the surrounding restaurants.
Astoria badly needed a late night
place to eat, and that this actually
includes good, wholesome fare
rather than the normal fried offer-
ings that permeate this city further
accentuates the value that this
restaurant brings to the area.
She’s doing a great job. We will
all be better off if she succeeds.
MOUTH: We’re going to have
to disagree about the importance of
a pool table. As I wrote, billiards are
lower on my list of what draws me
to a restaurant than a clean bath-
room. Seeing people eating, though,
helps.
We do agree, however, that
Capricorn makes a few worthwhile
Romanian specialties (though the
great majority of the menu is indeed
the fried junk you lament). Two
things Astoria has plenty enough of
are pool tables and fried pub grub.
Romanian food, on the other hand,
is in woefully short supply.
Delicious writing
Dear Mouth:
After having them several times,
I have come to believe the best
burgers in the North Coast area
are at the Relief Pitcher tavern just
south of Seaside on U.S. Highway
101. Their Pastrami Reuben sand-
wiches are to die for.
I only live in Seaside part time,
but when I do the local things
I most look forward to reading
are The Ear and your restaurant
reviews in The Astorian.
I once assisted Elizabeth Gill-
enwater, the food editor at the Or-
egon Journal in Portland, and was
food editor of a daily newspaper in
Oceanside, California. Thus, food
writing is of special interest to me.
And yours, just like much of the
food you write about, is delicious.
Cheryl Adamscheck
Seaside and Lacey, Washington
First, let me thank you for your
contribution to the local dining
experience. Your column is the
first thing I read in every week’s
newspaper.
Regarding the subject (Best
Chowder) — please include Bai-
ley’s Bakery in Nahcotta in your
samplings. In my opinion, Jayne’s
chowder is the best pre-prepared in
the region, surpassed only by The
Depot’s made to order offering.
Ed Burnett, Ocean Park
MOUTH: Cheryl and Ed —
Thanks for both the kind words
and the suggestions. I’m still doing
my due diligence in hopes of cre-
ating some best-of lists (like Best
Burger, Fish & Chips, Chowder
and so on). In the meantime, read-
ers, take a cue from Cheryl and Ed:
Tell me your favorites! What do I
absolutely have to try before nam-
ing Best Burger and the like?
D’oh!
I really think you need to check
your info as far as female chefs...
Chef Alec Evans, our chef at
Astoria Coffee House & Bistro...
has been doing a masterful job...
Breakfast, lunch and dinner...
sushi night, taco night... prime rib
night... and our killer busy week-
end breakfast/brunch... chef always
does everything with a smile...
She got second place as best chef
on the list... There was a photo of
her... are you not paying attention...
we are one of the most popular
restaurants in Astoria....
James Defeo (owner, Astoria
Coffee House & Bistro)
Hi, my name is Alec Evans.
I was just shown the article that
was written about best chef. Just
wanted to inform you that I am a
woman.
Thanks,
Alec Evans (chef, Astoria Cof-
fee House & Bistro)
MOUTH: I felt terrible about
this. Alec, I apologize.
While it’s of little consolation,
if there’s anything I’m happy to
be wrong about it’s the underrep-
resentation of female chefs being
recognized in the region. I will say,
considering my need for anonym-
ity, it can be easier to know who’s
working in some kitchens than in
others.
Nonetheless, I regret the error,
and should’ve caught it prior to
publication.
Praise for Plaza Jalisco
I was disappointed in your re-
view of Plaza Jalisco. My wife and
I have been going there for almost
13 years (since our second date) and
never once have we had bad service
or bad food. In fact we love there
food.
The waiter, he is awesome to us
and our kids. We eat there cheaper
than most places and never leave
hungry. I recommend Plaza Jalisco
to everyone.
To me it says something that in
almost 13 years we have never left
there disappointed, never. I’d like
to see that happen anywhere else in
half that time.
Your review is the only time I
have heard a not-so-great review
of this restaurant. Unfortunately re-
views like this can be the downfall
of a great place.
Respectfully disagree,
Nate.
DWIGHT CASWELL PHOTO
Alec Evans, the chef at Astoria Cof-
fee House & Bistro, won second
place in the 2017 Readers Choice
Awards’ Best Chef category.
MOUTH: Nate, I appreciate
your passionate defense. While
certainly we differ on the basic
quality of the food, there is some
overlap to our experiences: I noted
the portions and appreciated the
service. But when reviewing, I have
to distance myself from sentimental
concerns as much as I can.
I appreciate the history you’ve
developed with Plaza Jalisco, but
I’ve got to focus primarily on the
food that’s on the plate as it relates
to the region’s restaurants. It gives
me no pleasure — and, often, some
pain — to give tough or negative
reviews. But to brush an inferior
restaurant’s shortcomings under
the rug would be unfair to those
striving for excellence.
• • •
MOUTH: I’m often asked to
recommend wedding caterers, but I
don’t have much experience in the
matter. Know a good one? Share
with us in the comments, or via
email.
As always, I’m looking to hear
from you! Write with tips, criticism,
suggestions and sad teenage poetry:
mouth@coastweekend.com
The Mouth is taking some time
off and will return soon. CW