14 // COASTWEEKEND.COM
Coast Weekend’s local
restaurant review
BLACKBIRD
Rating:
BYE BYE,
BLACKBIRD
KEY TO STAR RATING SYSTEM
Below average
Average
Good
Excellent
Best in region
Review by
THE MOUTH OF THE COLUMBIA
MOUTH@COASTWEEKEND.COM
FACEBOOK.COM/MOUTHOFTHECOLUMBIA
A
fter the check is paid and the
last diners amble out, tables
at Blackbird are re-set. Last
Sunday, however, those refreshed
place settings — the shining
silverware, white cloth napkins,
water glasses and so on — would
no longer be necessary.
On Oct. 1, the Blackbird of-
fered its fi nal dinner service. And
when the lights were fl icked off,
the candles extinguished and the
stove left to cool, it was unclear if
they’d ever be lit again.
A note on the door, hung a
couple of weeks prior, told of the
Manzanita restaurant’s imminent
end:
“It is with a delicate mix of
sadness and relief we write to you,
our most amazing guests,” the
note began. “We are indescrib-
ably gracious to you for giving us
such a fond story to this chapter
in our lives, and like all stories
this chapter has an inevitable end.
Moving on to the next is so tear-
fully bittersweet …”
Beyond the initial dismay, a
few words jumped from the page:
“relief,” “bittersweet.”
First, it ought to be underlined:
Blackbird isn’t closing for lack of
business. Rather, owner/chef Lee
Vance was burned out, not only
from helming the kitchen, but
training and failing to retain the
staff necessary to help her run it.
At the same time, though, it
seems Vance seeks not only to
recharge her batteries, but fi nd a
new vehicle in which to use them.
The note reads: “this chapter.”
Regardless of whether a buyer
emerges — and I certainly hope
one does — the Blackbird will not
be passed like a baton. There is no
heir apparent. Regardless, Black-
PHOTOS BY JUSTIN BAILIE/BLACKBIRDMANZANITA.COM
Blackbird restaurant in Manzanita
bird, which opened Valentines
Day 2014, was an extension of
Vance. Should a buyer appear and
the name remain, what emerges
might be thought of as, at best, a
re-boot. It won’t be the same.
But any potential buyer
should by all means crib from
Vance’s successes. Behind her
refi ned, Italian-rooted cooking
is a celebration of terrifi c local
ingredients. Vance put to work the
splendid abundance of her back-
yard (the Nehalem River Valley).
(Purveyors listed on the menu
included R-Evolution Gardens,
King Fisher Farms, Lance’s Farm
Vittles, Zwiefel Eggs, Sea Level
Bakery, Community Supported
Fishery and so on.)
And while a buyer will have
almost no choice but to concoct
their own menu, they could feel
confi dent offering it in a lovingly
designed, carefully curated space.
Over candle light, in the presence
of stunning artwork, Blackbird
was sleek without being preten-
tious or overbearing. (The warm,
humble, exacting staff, too, de-
serve a share of credit for setting
the mood.) Altogether, Blackbird
was one of the most romantic
spots around.
It was always one of the fi rst
recommendations I’d give — es-
pecially for those in the neighbor-
hood. While it could be confused
with a Portland-y restuarant,
Blackbird was sui generis, not
chasing anything but rather fash-
ioning its own. Blackbird offered
a distinct and refi ned take on the
place we call home. At times it
felt like a glimpse into the future
of North Coast dining.
Alas, Blackbird was also the
only place in the region I know of
that served bone marrow. Vance’s
offered vivid presentation: a
criss-crossing pair of hulking
bones that overwhelm a delicate
glass tray. With luscious creeks of
oily fats infused with onion and
topped with briny accoutrements,
the dish was both elegant and ele-
mental. I felt like a bone-slurping
caveman with fancy fl atware.
The Green Garlic Spaetzle was
a more hearty, heartening scene.
An orgy of umami and creamy
parmesan, replete with meaty
oyster mushrooms and a puffy
and crisp green spinach and garlic
pasta, I felt confi dent that with
everyday access to such meat-y
meat-alternatives I could turn
vegetarian and love it.
Every bit as satisfying was
the Blackbird stand-by: Bacon
Wrapped Apricots stuffed with
chevre and a Marcona almond. The
pop-in-your-mouth bites comforted
like a warm hug — salty, sweet,
supple, charred, fatty, creamy and
a nutty crunch. The skewers were
served on a bed of arugula so fresh
and spicy that you actually fi nish
the arugula.
Regardless of the source —
from the sear on the rockfi sh, to
toast that’s crusty on the outside,
pillowy inside — Vance’s exe-
cutions were exquisite from the
fl agships on down. In her kitchen,
there are no afterthoughts.
The dishes, though, will cause
you to think. The Black Rock Fish
— with warm frisée and spin-
ach salad, white beans, sautéed
caulifl ower with touches of creme
fraiche and bacon vinaigrette
— delighted in subtle expan-
sion. Bites that appeared simple
unfurled slowly, quietly. You just
had to listen.
Beyond the freshness and
fl awless preparation, one of the
unmatched pleasures at Blackbird
was the opportunity to tailor a
meal matching your mood. You
could do the usual thing: a starter
and an entrée, or you could pass
around plates meant to be shared.
Or you could come for cocktails
and dessert, or just sit at the bar
(the bartending was nearly as
involved as the kitchen).
Now, some of you may be
jumping ahead, glancing at that
star rating and wondering: Why is
a restaurant that’s closed getting
reviewed?
Well, Nobel prizes can be
awarded to work done in years
and decades past, so why not a
restaurant review? Really, it’s
about the record. Somewhat
famously, Richard Fencsak, the
original Mouth, during his tenure
awarded fi ve stars to a single
restaurant: Seaview’s The Depot.
We still talk about that review
today. And if you ask me we’ll be
talking about Vance’s Blackbird
for years to come.
I never left feeling any less
than elated. That came from not
only the best ingredients from
the place we call home, but the
way Vance elevated them. Her
lens was one of refl ection and
reverence, always delicious. In
doing so, Blackbird, without fail,
brought me into the present.
A Franz Kafka quote on Black-
bird’s menu captured the sensa-
tion. “So long as you have food in
your mouth,” it goes, “you have
solved all questions for the time
being.”
At Blackbird that was absolute-
ly true, and I’m grateful for it. CW