Buoy Beer Company
• STORY & PHOTO: HEATHER DOUGLAS | MAIN PHOTO: JIM STANOVICH
our years ago, local entrepreneur Luke Colvin
decided he would open a brewery in Astoria –
and he wouldn’t take no for an answer. He
approached his Rotary friend Andrew Bornstein
who suggested his own family’s 90-year-old
cannery building as an idea – but it “won’t
work,” Bornstein told Colvin; “the pilings are no good.”
About 20 hours later, Colvin answered back; he was on a
barge under the building with an engineer. “He calls me and
says,” laughed Bornstein, “I’m with an engineer and the pilings
seem fine. Why else don’t you think it’s a good place for a
brewery?”
The back and forth went on for a week: Bornstein listing off
problems and Colvin finding professionals who would solve
them. Finally, Bornstein was convinced. “I said let’s do this, I’m
in. It started to steam roll from there,” said Bornstein.
What started to take shape in 2013 was a business plan that
centered around family, friendships and local community.
Colvin’s brother-in-law, David
Kroening, joined the team of
Buoy Beer Co. is
founders along with business
a breathtaking
advisor Jerry Kasinger and
founding brewer Dan Hamilton.
building –
What resulted was a
combining the
breathtaking
building
–
history of
combining the history of Astoria,
the fishing culture and of course,
Astoria, the
beer – with the Columbia River
fishing culture
flowing directly underneath and
a unique glass section of the
and of course,
floor to view the sea lions.
beer – with the
Professional brewer Kevin
Shaw joined ranks; in line with
Columbia River
Buoy’s family theme, his wife
flowing directly
Katie took on managing the
taproom. Locally respected chef
underneath.
team Eric Jenkins and wife
Jennifer Chapman rounded out the kitchen team.
Buoy is now in its third year and continues to stay true to
their seafood roots. Executive Chef Eric Jenkins said “we pride
ourselves on serving only fresh local rockfish for the fish and
chips – our most popular selling food item; I would say that 95
percent of the time we have it but when we can’t get it due to
weather or fishing issues, we ’86 it from the menu. We have a
strict commitment to only serving fresh or not at all.
“We have a special relationship with Bornsteins,” he added.
“Fish come straight off the boat, is filleted the same day and on
the plate. We really couldn’t get it any fresher if we caught it
ourselves. What I’m most proud of though is my kitchen staff;
we make everything from scratch and it’s labor intensive seven
days a week. They make it happen.”
Other signature dishes like the pan fried Willapa Bay Oysters
feature a goat cheese pearl and jalapeno jam. Jenkins is willing
to travel long distances to get the product he wants. “Today, I’m
driving 64 miles round trip to a mom and pop outfit out of
Nahcotta to get our clams,” said Jenkins.
Pairing food and beer heightens the experience. Jenkins
recommends guests ask their server for suggestions. Head
Brewer Kevin Shaw brews a spectrum of styles in hopes that
there is something for everyone. “We typically have between
12-16 beers on draft so that there is something for every palate.”
F
6 • Craft Beer 2017 • www.dailyastorian.com
1 Eighth Street • Astoria • buoybeer.com