9A
THE DAILY ASTORIAN • THURSDAY, MAY 18, 2017
Chef: Main is proudest of the people she mentored, inspired
Continued from Page 1A
When Nanci and Jimella weren’t
busy at the restaurant, they were
often leading cooking classes, mak-
ing guest chef appearances or meet-
ing with TV, radio or print media to
promote the area and their approach
to regional cuisine.
“People were excited about what
was happening here,” Main said.
come in all dressed up for their anni-
versary, and feel comfortable,” Main
said. “They can come in and have
fish and chips or a N.Y. steak and
they’re treated just the same.”
They formed Northwest Women’s
Chefs as a way to remain engaged
with top chefs in Portland and Seat-
tle. The interactions “kept us stimu-
lated and creative,” Main said.
Local suppliers
Remote challenges
Success didn’t come overnight,
nor did it come easy. Isolation from
ingredients and unfamiliarity with
food presented early challenges.
“When we first opened (The Shel-
burne Restaurant in 1981), there
were no coastal deliveries here. Back
then, we did a New York steak with
peppercorn sauce and we traveled 30
miles to get green peppercorns. A lot
of things you can get now, we were
on the forefront. The peninsula didn’t
have this kind of gourmet food. Peo-
ple had never heard of pesto when we
started.”
When Nanci and Jimella opened
The Sheburne in 1981, there was
also some resistance to what was
regarded as “gourmet food.” Even
though familiar fare such as fish and
chips, captain’s plates and chowder
were on the menu, there were whis-
pers about the wisdom of offering
more novel dishes in a working-class
community.
“When we took over The Ark,
there was a rumor that there was
dress code and we were turning peo-
ple away,” Main said.
“It was a challenge to overcome
the stigma for the kind of food we
did — people were afraid to try it at
first,” she said.
The experience further forged
their resolve to make top-quality cui-
sine available to everyone, regardless
of what they were wearing or what
they chose to order.
“My philosophy (of dining) is
people can come in in Levis, they can
come in from clamming, or they can
Through the years, Main and
Lucas — who died in Novem-
ber 2013 — celebrated the seasons
and embraced local products and
producers.
“All of our products came right to
us,” she said. “We had relationships
with the fishermen and local produc-
ers because we had lived here sepa-
rately years before.”
“When we got The Ark, I would
be in the dining room at night look-
ing out on the bay and I would see the
lights of the gillnet boats, and I would
tell our customers that what they’re
catching will be on plates tomorrow,”
Main said. “Then next day, fishermen
would be backing up to the load-
ing dock with sturgeon and salmon.
Then we would run across the street
to Jolly Roger and come back with
gallons of shucked oysters.”
Many of the relationships with
local farmers, fishermen and produc-
ers have spanned decades.
“Ernie Soule, who I still buy lit-
tleneck clams from, would deliver
clams from Willapa Bay,” she said.
“That was back then and still today
— I just got 30 pounds from him
yesterday.”
Main also has fond memories of
when the first spring salmon would
arrive at The Ark.
“Gary Wilson brought the first
salmon through the back door and it
was as shiny as a dime,” Main said.
“It so firm, so sweet and so beautiful.
We walked through the dining room
and brought the fish to each table and
showed them the first spring salmon.
Where else would that happen?”
The Great Depression
In terms of sustainability and uti-
lizing eco-friendly practices, Nanci
and Jimella were ahead of their
time. A lot of the herbs and vege-
tables once served at The Ark were
grown in a garden nourished by soil
amended with compost from restau-
rant waste, a novel concept of sus-
tainability before the movement had
truly taken root.
“What we did just came natu-
ral,” Main said. “A part of our cook’s
job description was turning the
compost.”
‘I’m proud that
until the end,
my crew still
maintains the
same attention
to detail and
pride in their
work.’
Nanci Main
Ocean Park chef
In 2003, they were the recipients
of the sustainability award from the
state of Washington for being pio-
neers in recycling and sustainabil-
ity. They were also recycling at every
opportunity, largely a result of both
being born to parents that endured
The Great Depression.
“You don’t waste anything,” Main
said. “We used everything.”
Culinary art
Nanci and Jimella’s culinary cre-
ativity was cultivated by years of
research as curious customers.
“This is what chefs do when they
go out to eat,” Main said. “Once the
food comes, first, you look at it, then
you smell it. Then you try to figure
out what’s in it. It’s just fun to do.
We did that for years before we had
our own place and we educated our
palate.”
The practice led to creativity in
the kitchen and an exploration of
complementary flavors.
“When we would create some-
thing new on the menu, we would
access our memory of the flavors
that went together,” Main said. “We
would talk about what colors were on
the plate and shapes of flavors.”
In time, Nanci and Jimella culti-
vated their own culinary language.
“That’s three sharp flavors and we
need something round. For instance,
if you have too many sharp, acidic
flavors, you need something round
and soft to cushion and complement
it,” Main said. “I miss that so much,
the way we used to talk about food
and create. That was the art and cre-
ative talent that we both had.”
Unforgettable experiences
Unforgettable experiences had a
way of happening around the holi-
days. Main once served sandwiches
under candlelight to a packed restau-
rant after a storm knocked out the
power on New Year’s Eve. “Some-
times it’s just about the experience,”
she said.
Another time they nearly had to
cancel a Thanksgiving dinner after
accidentally setting off the fire-sup-
pression system.
“The fans were running, then all
the sudden they stopped and I heard
this ‘click,”’ Main said. “We both
knew immediately that we had 30
seconds before everything would be
covered in white foam.” The “click”
was the fire-suppression system get-
ting ready to engage, and starting gun
for what would be a race to empty the
kitchen before the food was covered
in flamer retardant.
“I’ll never forget the silence after
the click, and knowing we only had
seconds to save those damn tur-
keys!,” Main said. The food — and
Thanksgiving — were saved in the
nick of time.
Closing the cafe
The café building remains for
sale, and the final official day for
business and staff at the café iscom-
ing, but it won’t be the last public
appearance for Main.
“On occasion I will still do pop-
ups, which I will announce on the
café Facebook page.”
One event is already planned for
June in honor of her father, a World
War II veteran.
“The last two weeks of June, I’m
doing a complimentary lunch for vet-
erans.” The buffet lunch is open to
all war veterans. Main held the lunch
once before and 35 veterans ranging
from World War II to the Iraq War
attended, she said.
A little advice
For would-be restaurant own-
ers looking to start a business, Main
emphasized community connect-
edness while being mindful of cus-
tomer desires.
“The backbone of your business
is your locals — value and nurture
them,” she said. “Don’t try to go too
far with your food. Test it out, see
what people want. If you’re going to
try something new, make sure people
understand and want it.”
Main also said to research and
form alliances with other area restau-
rants and owners.
Proudest accomplishment
Main has prepared meals for pres-
idents, been featured in numerous
TV, radio and personal appearances,
won awards and written cookbooks,
but her proudest moments are the
people she mentored and inspired,
and the legacy she and Lucas leave
behind.
“I’m proud of the things we
emphasize — value in food and com-
munity,” she said.
“I’m proud that until the end, my
crew still maintains the same atten-
tion to detail and pride in their work.”
Equal pay: Sen. Knopp called bipartisan bill a ‘historic agreement’
Continued from Page 1A
The safeguard applies to
women and all other protected
classes, including minorities,
older people and people with dis-
abilities. The bill also prohib-
its employers from asking job
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Taylor and Sen. Tim Knopp,
R-Bend, championed the House
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THE CITY OF ASTORIA
Published: May 18th and 2dth,
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Date of first publication: May 11,
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Published: May 11th, 18th, and
2dth, 2017
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