' I 'HE up-to-date wardrobe Is
loose coat such as the new evening one here sketched
(6990). Although elaborate In appearance, It Is really
very simple in construction. The sleeves, cut In one piece
with the front and back, are kimono Btyle. Braid ornaments
may effect the 'front closing, or some contrasting material or
rich trimming may be used as a facing, and the fronts rolled
back to form revers. Biscuit colored broadcloth, trimmed with
soutache braid or heavy lace, would make up handsomely.
More serviceable development may be had In cravenette, covert
cloth, tweed and serge. The medium size will require 3H
yards of 64 Inch material.
Ladles' Evening; Coat. No. 5900. Sim for small, medium
and large.
There Is always a plaqe In the feminine wardrobe for a
smart gown such as 6984-B961, that Is dressy enough to wear
upon almost any occasion, and yet Is not too difficult for home
COST OF A BOW
T
iHE recent court held by King Ed
ward and Queen Alexandra lends
Interest to the inquiry as to what
It costs for a debutante to make her
curtesy to the King and Queen. A cer
tain amount of exaggeration has at
tached Itself to the expenditure which
Is cited as necessary for a court outfit.
The all-Important dress may cost thou
sands of dollars, and tens of thousands
of dollaret but, on the other hand,
a very dainty little debutante at the
last court only spent J 25 on her frock.
It was made by a good dressmaker and
the train was lent by a friend.
A calculation has been made to de
cide the maximum and minimum cost
of a presentation at court. There Is,
of course, practically no limit to the ex
penditure which might be Involved. A
gown may be sewn with real Jewels.
A petticoat may be fashioned of price
less lace. A feather fan may be adorn
ed with sticks of gold. All that can be
done to Is to take a fair average of the
sum total which would be considered
necessary by a society debutante.
The minimum cost is a more difficult
matter. The most rigid economy must
be practised, and the greatest difficulty
wmch will present Itself will be to In
vest a comparatively small sum on the
outfit and yet to compare favorably
with the woman who has spent three
times the amount. The fact that It is
now possible to hire a court train has
proved a veritable boon to many de
buta .es. The price varies from $12
to $30, but a very dainty train of chif
fon, lace and touches of silver embroid
ery can be procured for the evening at
a charge of 816. Bouquets are not so
fashionable now as whiter feather fans,
but not everybody can afford one of
these fragile luxuries, and in that case
flowers must suffice.
A firm of court florists will make up
a bouquet of white poppies and mar
guerites for an extremely small sum.
A visit to the photographer's might
even be omitted, but it would be a pity
to economize In this respect. Every
woman Is anxious to hand down to pos
terity a picture of herself gowned for
the -:eat event.
UNASKED ADVICE
IF your object and ambition is to
keep the course of your friend
ships smooth and straight, do not
ever succumb to the sometimes sorely
tempting, but always annoying, pro
pensity for giving unasked advice.
However well you may know a man or
a Woman, and however dearly you may
love and long to aid the friend who, In
your eyes, seems to be following the
very Injurious and mistaken line of
action, do not venture your remon
strances and suggestions until you are
very positive that they will be re
ceived In the spirit In which both are
offered.
How oAan, oh, how often! have I
seen the best of friends forced apart
by the untimely Interference of one In
the very private affairs of another,
and I myself have claimed and lost the
good-will of one who would Insist on
advising me In the management of my
ervanta, who would persist In hold-
not complete without a long
A TACTLESS TEASE
F you tease ever so lightly ' and
I gaily you only rouse your slstsir s
ire or hurt your brother's feelings,
and such Injury to their pride and their
tempera casts a shadow on not only
their love for you, but on their liking
ror your companionship.
At long Intervals to poke a little
harmless fun at Mary's weakness for
bright colors, or Bob's appetite for
chocolates, or the mother's pronenexs
to suspect unjustly the butcher of
sharp practice, is a harmless indul
gence enough, so long as you do not
push the point too far, and so long as
Mary and Bob or the mother accept
your fun-making with smiles and per
fectly good-natured retorts.
But as soon as ever you see that
Mary looks fretted by the reference to
her small vanities, gracefully resign
any Idea of carrying your Jesting fur
ther and don't, In the presence of
guests, show a delight In mentioning
the sweet tooth of Robert, when you
perfectly well know that that young
gentleman Is rather ashamed of his
fondness for sugar plums. It Is noth
ing less than poor sport to nag a rela
tive In a semi-humorous tone about his
faults and his foibles, and to embarrass
a member of yqur household before
callers.
And tactless, even to the point of Im
pertinence and vulgarity, Is that habit
of testing a pretty sister about her
beaux, or a brother concerning the
young ladies whose charms deeply Im
press his susceptible heart.
If Mr. Jones rings the front door bell
three nights In the week, don't take
advantage of the opportunity to In
crease the conscious blushes on your
pretty sister's cheeks by tlresomely
frequent reference to Mr. Jones, by
open speculation as to his matrimonial
aspirations, and by burlesque Imita
tions of Mr. Jones's possible peculiari
ties. You cannot afford to do these things
because they make Mr. Jones look re
dlculous in your sister's eyes, because
they make your sister self-conscious,
and because they arouse In her breast a,
great deal of justifiable resentment.
Sometimes a tactless tease will succeed
In spplllng a friendship, or In annoying
his victim even to the point of tears,
and that is the kind of a victory in
which, as a seeker after home popular
ity, you can promptly see defeat for all
your hopes.
On the whole. It Is better to poke
no fun at all when the object of your
amusement Is a bit thin-skinned, and
remember that when It is a case of a
lltle love affair going forward In the
family parlor you do a great deal of
Injury to yourself by trying to make
game of the young lady's admirer.
ing up to me her own good example as
a housekeeper, who was eager to Im
prove on my methods of feeding my
pets, and who offered me suggestions
even In the spending of my pocket
money. She was never able to realize
that there are some familiarities that
the most Intimate and the most for
bearing cannot endure and that the
most humble-minded resent
making. The blouse waist Is completed by a gulmpe of tucked
moussellne, and an Inner vest of heavy lace lends especial
charm to the mode. The skirt is an excellent one to form part
of a costJme, or as a separate skirt to wear with odd waists.
It Is cut In four gores and Is laid In an Inverted box-pleat at
each seam. Cord ornaments form the trimming. A handsome
development would1 be In amethyst chiffon broadcloth; radla
silk, taffeta, crepe de chine, voile and poplin would all be suit
able. For 36 inches bust -measure, 2 yards of 44 Inch ma
terial will be required for the waist, and 4 yards for the
skirt.
Ladles' Waist with Kulinpe. No. 5884. Slses for 32, 84, 30,
88, 40 and 42 Inches bunt measure.
Ladles' Skirt. No. B0C1. Slits' for 22, 24, 20, 28, 30 and 32
Inchea vialnt measure. 1 "
This modish gown of pale gray broadcloth (5988-6986) has
the panel effect In front, rendering It exceedingly becoming.
Deep tucks over the shoulders give the wide effect and produce
a graceful fulness that gives roundness to the figure. The
skirt Is given the fashionable cIobb fit about the waist by the
deep pleats being stitched to yoke depth and allowed to fall
MAKING
T'ELL me how your child breathes, and
I I will tell you whether it can ever
become beautiful.
This is a paraphrase on a popular saw
which should strike close to every maternal
heart
If your child does not 'breathe
properly, it Is bound to grow up with
a decided shortage In that valuable
asset, beauty. Correct breathing In
sures a well-developed, high chest, a
good complexion and, generally speak
ing, a good facial expression. The
baby that breathes through Its' mouth
gradually lies with the mouth open and
has the vacant expression peculiar to
children .who are mentally defective.
The Idiot never closes Its mouth. Cor
rect breathing purifies the blood with
oxygen and Is the surest preventive of
catarrh. '
The city of New York maintains In
Its public schools a complete system
of physical examination by a corps of
doctors and nurses. Tho examinations
of children during the present year,
beginning September, 1907, shows that
20,248 New York children suffer from
defective breathing and particularly
with adenoids, or growths In the nasal
passages which prevent breathing
through the nose. Over twenty thou
sand boys and girls In New York alone
sit and play and sleep with their
mouths half open. Over twenty thou
sand children cannot possibly be beau
tiful because their mothers did not
teach them how to breathe.
If your baby IS properly cared for
A PRETTY
T
HE addition of a perky little bow
In Just the right place Is often
that mysterious something that
goes to make an entire costume look
fetching. Decidedly for neckwear the
bow is the thing of the moment. The
fashionable girl has fifty In her bu
reau drawer, the girl of modest purse
needs at least a dozen. The reappear
ance of the stiff linen collar has
brought about the demand for thesf
bowB, but there Is no particular style
mostly In favor. Bows are made of rib
bon, net, laco, bias taffeta or satin,
linen, lawn, and Innumerable fancy
fabrics.
Point d'esprlt makes by far the most
serviceable net bow, and can be side'
or accordion pleated or gathered very
full, tied lightly In the middle, so af
not to give a round or chow-like ap
pearance. The piece bag should sug
gest innumerable combinations, such
as bits of white lace, which might be
finished with tiny ruffles of black edg
ing and vice versa. Bits of plaid silk
left from last year's blouse, or any
piece of brighr silk, can be manufac
tured Into a Frenchy little twlBt oi
bow In a moment's handling.
Almost without exception these
bows are sewed on to a tiny piece of
celluloid which comes for that pur
pose, and on the back of which Is a
patent faBtener which fits right on
over the collar button. All depart
ment stores carry these celluloid at
THE BABY BEAUTIFUL
from the very first and has no growths
at birth, It will breathe correctly. If
from the very beginning you find that
It lies with the mouth open,, be sure
the matter should be Investigated by
a competent physician. If he finds
that adenoids are present, he will have
them removed some time between the
ninth and the twelfth month of baby's
first year. This operation Is very sim
ple, the child recovers very rapidly, is
generally quite natural by the third
day, but It must be done only by a
competent surgeon and under sanitary
conditions.
The baby who "always has a cold"
is generally the baby raised without
fresh air. From the day of birth, sur
round your baby with the right sort of
air to breathe. Unless It is a fit sub
ject for an Incubator, never cover Its
head with heavy blankets or quilts.
Have the room warmed, but have also
a free circulation of sweet, pure air
I know a trained nurse whose spe
cialty Is normal, healthy, un-collcky
babies, and she says she fights for
pure air In every household where she
works. If the young mother has spent
dollars on a lace-trimmed baby basket
and forgotten to buy a plain screen,
the nurse demands the latter. Her
slogan Is, Do without lace on the bas
ket and buy a white enameled, cre
tonne or calico hung screen to set
around baby's crib. Then, while baby
Is thus screened from all draught,
have a current of pure air through the
room, night and day. Do not imagine
BOW HERE AND THERE
tachments, and they cost about five
cents each or less.
The half grown girl has as yet
found no more becoming style of
wearing her hair than tying It at the
nape of her neck with a large bow.
and sometimes, when It Is becoming,
adding another on top of her hair.
These bows should be of matching col
ors with her gown. Do not wear
green bows with a pink gown. If you
have no ribbon like the coloring of the
gown you are wearing, then select
black as your only other choice. Con
trasts are to be avoided. With your
dark blue dress wear dark blue rib
bons, not red ones, as was occasionally
seen a year or two past.
The wearing of the empire dress by
so many women has called forth many
bows on the back of gowns. A few
years ago If you saw a woman with a
big bow on her back reaching up al
most between her shoulders, you would
have gasped la wonderment Not so
In these days. The gown that Is made
empire or even slightly short-walsted
In the back must be finished with a
soft girdle and a large flat bow with
ends falling quite to the hem of the
garment. I might Bay here the short,
stout girl should not wear such a finish
to her dress. Indeed, empire dresses
are not becoming to short women, as
they need the length that long-walsted
gowns give to them.
Many young girls are wearing large
flat rimmed hats of silk, black velvet
below that point In well pressed folds,, thus giving the neces
sary flare at the lower edge. The design Is suitable for broad
cloth, panama, voile, mohair and English suiting. For 86
Inches bust measure 24 yards of 44 Inch material will be re
quired for the waist and 6 yards for the skirt.
Ladles' Waist. No. 508 8. Slses for 32, 34, 30, 38, 40 and 42
Inches bast measure.
Ladles' Pleated Skirt. No. 8080. Slses for 22, 24, 24, 28, 80
and 82 Inches waist measure.
The modish over-blouse effects bid fair to hold their popu
larity indefinitely. This one of wood-brown chiffon taffeta
(6796-6692) Is worn over a gulmpe of deep cream colored lace
with charming effect. The blouse will prove exceptionally at
tractive for the soft, supple materials that drape nicely. The
skirt Is made with stitched pleats all around, and fits the flgure
closely at the hips, while the lower edge has the fashionable
flare. A yoke cut In scolloped outline Is a pretty feature.
The design Is admirable for foulard, crepe de chine, broadcloth
and pongee. For 36 lnoh bust measure 8H yards of material
27 Inches wide will be required for the waist and 10 yards
for the skirt
that the baby must Bleep In a close
atmosphere of 70 degrees or more.
In clear, sunshiny weather, winter or
summer, this nurse has her babies
take their daytime naps outdoors. If
she Is nursing In the suburbs, she
tucks baby, wrapped in warm cloak
and blankets and a snug hood and mit
tens, right Into his cab, pulls the hood
down to cut off draughts, and sets the
whole out In a patch of sunshine.
Every little while she runs out for a
peek, to make sure that baby has not
thrust his little hands out Into the cold.
If she Is nursing In the city, she some
times takes the carriage with Its pre
cious burden oil the roof, and some
times wheels it out to a nearby park.
And as her services are always In de
mand among high class physicians, she
must work wonders with wee babies
and over-Indulgent or over-anxious
young mothers.
If the baby has the "sniffles," grease
the bridge of the wee noso with sweet
or olive oil or vaseline. This will pre
vent , the hardening of the mucous
within, decrease soreness and keep up
the flow of mucous. For a child old
enough to sniff any fluid up the nose,
simple salt water, tepid but neither hot
nor cold, will check Incipient catarrh.
But bear In mind that if your child
sleeps and plays with the mouth open,
something Is wrong. See your doctor.
It may be the adenoldB, or fungus
growth In the nasal passage, or It may
bo foul air. It Is in your power to
remedy either defect
or Boft French felt For these hats
they have two, and sometimes three,
sets of ribbon bows. One set of black
satin Is for everyday wear, one of
some brightly colored plaid for occa
sional use, and still another, In Co
penhagen blue, old rose, or some fash
ionable color, Is for evening. Thl
lendB great variety to the hat, and If
you are clever about making the bow,
you can pick up five yards of ribbon
on the bargain oounter for little
money.
A very pretty way of fastening up
a princess dress that closes In the
back 1b first, of course, to use the
hooks and eyes which are necessary;
then all the way up the back, sew
tiny little bows about three Inches
apart Lingerie dresses, which are so
much worn In the house this winter by
the younger set, are very pretty when
finished in this way. Worn over a
blue slip and with a dozen little blue
bows up the back, It Is a great relief
from the large flowing bow or the
girdle.
All pretty lace petticoats are now
finished with a row of beading at the
top of the ruffle. Through this Is run
soft satin ribbon, and at one side a
large loose bow Is tied with long loops
and ends, falling to the bottom of the
skirt It takes nearly a piece of rib
bon for each skirt The bow falling
at one side gives just a pretty glimpse
of color when the dress la raised.
Ladles' Uver-Dlonse with Galmpe. No. 5790. Slses for 82, 34,
36, 88, 40 and 42 Inches bust meannre.
Ladles' Pleated Skirt with or without yoke. No. BOOS. Slaes
for 20, 22, 24, 20, 28 and 30 Inches waist measure.
A smart design In gray and black checked suiting Is 6696
6C32. Five gores were used In the construction of the skirt
A perfectly smooth adjustment Is given about the hips, from
which there Is a gradual widening to the lower edge, which is
quite full. The coat admits of being made In either long or
short hip length. It Is fitted by seams that extend to the
shoulders In both back and front, giving long graceful lines to
the figure. The mode Is appropriate for broadcloth, serge,
cheviot and mohair. For 36 Inches bust measure 2H yards
of 44-lnch material will be required for the coat and 6tt yards
for the skirt
Ladles' Coat. No. B600. Slses for 82, 84, 80, 38, 40 and 42
Inches bust measure.
Ladles' Plain Five-Gored Skirt, In long medium sweep, round
and short round length. No. 6032. Slses for 22, 24, 20, 28, 30
Each number calls for a separate pattern, at 10 cents each,
and 32 Inches waist measure.
BABY'S HAIR '
If scales or dandruff appear on the
scalp while baby la yet very young, do
not use the fine-tooth comb. Nothing
Is more irritating. Very gently rub
the scalp with warm fingers dipped In
olive oil or white vaseline, and a few
hours later see If the scales or dan
druff will not come off when the head
Is washed with a soft rag or sponge.
If not, you must try a little stronger
treatment.
Even In the wee baby, dandruff or
scales Indicate the presence of a germ,
and the best germicide for a tender
head, one guaranteed not to burn, is
resorcin. Mix eight grains of resoroin
with one ounce of rosewater, and apply
to the head with a sponge. This Is
both a germicide and an emollient.
Apply this every day, but do not Irri
tate the scalp by using comb or rough
brush. In time, the resorcin will kill
the germ and the scales or dandruff
will disappear In 'the daily wash.
Watch the little head very closely,
and the instant any of theBe germ Indi
cations appear, take the spot, however
mall, under treatment. No child can
have a .glossy, thick growth of hair
when these tiny germs are eating at
the roots.
Neither should you neglect the boy's
head, thinking that It does not matter,
he will never want to wear long
hair. It 1b often not a question of
long or short hair, but of no hair at
11. Many a man who becomes bald
before he reaches his thirtieth birth
day should thank his mother for his
misfortune.
As soon as the hair becomes long
enough to braid In tiny pigtails, It Ib
time to clip It regularly, say clipping
tho ends about an -eighth of an inch
once a month. Do not Binge It This
Is not necessary unless the ends spilt,
which they seldom do In childhood.
The growth of the hair will be en
couraged If It Is kept short until the
child Is five years old. Then and at all
times, from birth, be very careful to
brush the hair up from the back of
the neck and over the ears. Many a
glfl has an ugly neck or a suggestion
of side-whiskers over her ears because
her mother did not keep her hair
proporly brushed In babyhood.
If the hair Is not curly, do not try
to force this effect by the use of curl
papers or rags. Let the hair grow
naturally until Its growth Is estab
lished. And above all things, do not
try to alter the coloring of your baby's
hair. A mother wrote to me that she
and her husband were disappointed bo
cause their little girl had dark hair.
Would I tell her how to bleach 'it
while the baby was still young? De
cidedly I would not. Once It Is bleach
ed the process must be repeated at in
tervals, and peroxide undoubtedly
cracks and ruins the hair.
If baby's eyebrows are thin and
colorless, encourage their growth by
rubbing them dally with white vase
line and resorcin. Mix theBe in the
proportion of one ounce of petroleum
Jelly or vaseline and eight grains of
the resorcin. Be sure to brush the
eyebrows carefully every day with a
brush which comes for this purpose, to
give them a good arch and regular out
lines. If the eyelashes are thin and color
less at birth, have your physician,
t3
CHAFING DISH
RECIPES
T
HE chafing dish has long played
a pleasing role In the gentle art
of entertaining. The Bupper
after the play or after a game of cards
Is hardly considered complete without
It But of late It has made for Itself a
new position In the sterner everyday
life of the family wlthouta servant
or housed In a small apartment either
In city or small town.
It Is used for warming all sorts of
canned goods, but It shows to best ad
vantage when employed In the concoc
tion of some specially prepared mix
ture. V
For Instance, try creamed chicken
with green peppers. In the morning,
while doing up your work, simmer the
chicken until tender, and pour off the
broth for soup stock. If your family
Is small, Bet aside halt the meat for
chicken salad and half for creamed
chicken. Cut up the latter portion
moderately fine, but do not mince.
Place thlB In a pretty bowl. Take one
large or two very small green peppers,
cut off the tops, remove all trace of
seeds and stern through the center,
wash and drop the shells Into boiling
water and simmer gently for twenty
minutes. Remove and cut up In tiny
squares or dice. Now, when dinner
time comes, with the chafing dish be
fore you, and on one side the bowl of
chicken and on the other the diced
peppers, mix the savory main dish for
the meal. Melt two tablespoons of
butter In your chafing dish and rub
smoothly Into this two tablespoons of
flour. Add slowly a pint of milk, or a
pint of milk and chicken broth mixed.
When creamy thick, add your chicken
and peppers, simmer gently for a few
minutes, adding salt and cayenne pep
per, or better still, Hungarian popper,
commonly known as paprika. Serve
on very hot plates or on toast
Another delicious combination Is
crab meat with green peppers, known
as crab meat Dewey. For this buy a
pint of orab meat ready cooked and
picked, but I would advise you to pick
It over onee more before Betting it
forth with your chafing dish. Prepare
the peppers as described above. Make
the cream sauce In the same way, stir
In crab meat and serve on toast
Creamed clams are a very rich and
toothsome dish. Have ready the soft
part of two dozen clams. Discard
every scrap of the hard section, and
dip the soft part Into a saucepan of
boiling water for one minute. It Is
best to have them in a deep sieve or
strainer when you dip them In the
water. Drain and mince finely and set
aside in a bowl. Have ready also one
very small onion minced very fine.
When ready to cook In the chafing
dish, make cream sauce as described
above, two tablespoons of flour and two
of butter, with a pint of milk or milk
and clam juice mixed. Season with
salt, a dash of nutmeg and paprika and
serve on hot toast.
with his steady hand and keen scis
sors, cut them three times before baby
Is three months old. This unquestion
ably does encourage their growth, but
let no one save a physician attempt
the task.
PATENTS THAT PROTECT-Our three books
for inventors mailed on receipt of iix cents
turnips, K. S. A A. B. Lscey, korm25 to ss Pacifla
unit., wuninittoa, u. u utsuiuinea tww.