W" - " "J
38,
Mar jorie Dane's
Patterns
A STYLISH coat suit In dark green broadcloth,
trimmed with braid, is ghown In the illustra
tion (6812-6824). The short Jacket is unusu
ally jaunty and becoming, the good lines upon which
It is cut giving it a distinctive style. The front
laps In double-breasted style and curved seams in
v front and back extend to the shoulders and assist
greatly In shaping the garment- A choice of three
quarter or full length sleeves Is given. The modish
skirt consists of seven gores. The upper part la
given a faultless fit by groups of pleats stitched
closely to about yoke depth and flaring widely at
the lower edge, which Is In the fashionable clearing
length. English mohair, serge, broadcloth and the
novelty suitings are suitable for reproduction. For
86 inches bust measure Z yards of 44 Inch material
will be required for the Jacket and 014 yards for
the skirt.
Ladles' Jacket. No. B812. Sixes for .12, 34, 30,
40 and 42 Inches bust measure.
Ladles' Sttirt. Jo. BN24. Sle for 22, 24, 20, 28;
no ;w mcuea waist measure.
This Illustration calls for two separate patterns,
a Jacket and skirt, which will be mailed to any ad
dress on the receipt of 10 cents each.
The costume shown In rich red broadcloth (5888
6Z7) is exceptionally smart and modish. The coat
la one of the new cutaway models, closing In single
breasted stylo. The pattern allows for full length
or elbow ileeves, either style being finished by turn
back cuffs. A rolling collar completes the neck
and stitched pocket laps add to the smart, Jaunty
effect. The nine gored kilt skirt Is up-to-date and
a most desirable model In every way. The d...
pleats are stitched to deep yoke depth, and the lower
edge may be either ahort round or Instep length.
Cheviot, English worsted or novelty suiting will all
make up stylishly after this design. Sizes 36 inch
bust measure will require 254 yards of 44 inch ma
terial for the coat and t yards for the skirt.
Ladles' Cutaway Coat. No. BH8H. Slues for 32, 34,
88, 88, 40 and 42 Inches bust measure.
Ladies' nine Gored Kilt Skirt, No. 5427. Sizes
(or 20, 22, 24, 2, 28 and 80 Indies waist measure,
This Illustration calls for two separate patterns,
a coat and a skirt, which will be mailed to any ad
dress on the receipt of 10 oents each.
For young girls the plain long coat in double
breasted style Is always a popular model for home
making. This one (5966) is particularly modish
with Its broad shawl collar extending out over the
ileeves, as It gives the wide shoulder effect so be
coming to children. The back Is quite plain and
the lines of the front unbroken, save for the pockets
and three large buttons that effect the closing. The
regulation coat sleeve Is gathered into the armhole.
The lower edge Is prettily finished by a turned back
cuff. Horrlng-bone cheviot was chosen for the
making, but Scotch tweed, broadcloth, velvet and the
novelty fabrics are all auggested. For a child of 8
years 2 yards of 44 inch material will be required
Girls' Coat. No. 50SB. Sites for 6, 8, 10 and 12
A pattern of the accompanying Illustration will
be mailed to any address on receipt of ten cents.
Address all orders to MarJorle Dane, 44 West
Thirty-fourth street, New York City.
I'lease be sure to stnte alie of pattern desired,
and write name and address plainly.
Hair Hints
The demand for puffs Is still Increasing. The
home girl must save all her combings and take them
to the hairdresser to be made Into puffs. By doing
this you will save almost half the cost of them, and
In addition they will match perfectly and you will
know what sort of hair you are wearing. False hair
Is worn In great quantities, and with the present
style of headgear It Is really quite essential. Do
not resort to the use of the curling Irons unless you
Imply have to. Ninety-nine cases out of every nun
dred you burn your hair, and It takes weeks of
growth to replace It.
Put your hair up on curlers every day, If only for
half an hour, and dampen the hair with cologne
water. This dries very quickly and helps to hold
the wave. If you use an Iron (but, as I said abqve,
do not unless It Is an absolute necessity), do not
heat the Iron very hot. Got a good, even heat and
press the hair while you count at leaBt sixty. The
great trouble with curling the hair at home Is that
you get the iron very hot and crimp, rather than
wave, the hair. The best Irons to use are the ones
that make a double wave. You will find them at
any shop, and they have either four or six prongs.
Massaging the head every night rather than brush
ing it helps towards that curly appearance. Doing
these simple things at home Is really far better for
the hair than the habit of going to the hairdresser,
for constantly ondulating the hair la not good for It,
even when done by the professional.
0
V II
DOOR
SMALL ATTENTIONS
THESE! are of divers sorts, and
neighbors never lack in apprec
iation of your genoroslty In now
and then sharing with them the kindly
fruits of the earth, a gift of flowers, a
good hook, or the loan of your maga
zines. It is so easy and so prolltnlilo
when your garden is overllowlug with
fruit, or vegetables, to pick a bnskct ful
of particularly fine plums, pears or
peaches, and, arranging them most nt
tractlvoly, send them, with a note or
card, to the Planks, whose garden you
know Is none of the best, or whose
strawberry crop has been a dead fail
ure.
Again, If you have been presented
with a barrel of particularly tine ap
ples, or a splendid box of roses, and you
feel generously Inclined, It Is perfect
ly permissible to send a sharo of these
across tho npartment-liouso hall, or up
one flight to tho family that you may
not know even by name, but which you
have a right to pleasantly approach be
cause they aro your fellow-occupants
of the house.
Thus the very fact of living near to
people gives you certain pleasant privi
leges, but believe me that It never
gives you nny right to Intrude upon
their privacies, and one of the must
Important and delicate attentions you
can show your neighbor Is to restrain
yourself from ever taking a liberty
with him. A little carelessness on this
point so often leads to trouble that 1
cannot forbear to suggest that, In order
to live In harmony with your neighbor.
and to keep his lasting lilting, you
should never allow yourself to become
careless in your intimacy with Ulni.
Familiarity, ns the old saw says, does
not so often breed contempt as it
breeds neglect f illness; and when you
grow so familiar with your neighbor
that you neglect some of the little for
malities of life, differences and ill-feeling
are very apt to be the outcome.
Kxpoilenoe has proved to me that It
Is, for 'example, the better plan never
to grow so familiar with the family
next door that you venture to drop hi
upon them at nil hours and to stay us
long as ever your leisure permits. do
frequently and In the most informal
fashion to the lilunks, If you And them
sweet, cordial and congenial people, Inn
do not always make your entrance like
a member of tho family by tho rear
gate or the back door.
Tho neighbor who has this habit, and
who persists In It, Is apt, in time, to
render his presence a nuisance and n
burden.
" " ' I -
WINTER PUDDINGS
Steamed Fig I'liddlngi This Is
rather a hearty dessert, and Is ex
cellent to servo after a dinner of few
courses. Chop very ilna about a third
of a pound of beef suet and work it
with your hands until quite creamy.
then add a half pound of llgs chopped
very line, work the two together un
til well blended. Soak two and one
intra cups ot stale bread crumbs In
about half cup of milk for half an hour.
Add to this two eggs well beaten, one
cup sugar and a teaspoon of salt. Com.
bine tho two mixtures, and put into
small buttered tin molds, cover and
steam from ono to two hours, accord
ing to oven. Serve with the following
sauce; The yolks of two eggs, well
beaten, and add gradually while beat
ing, half a cup of powdered sugar.
Heat tho whiles of the two eggs until
very stiff, and add gradually to it
half cupful of powdered sugar. Now
combine the two mixtures, beating
them well together, and add three
tablespoons of sherry and a little salt
The beating of this sauce is the secret
of Its success.
Fruit I'iiIT Padding is not so rich as
the above puddings, and Is a delicious
dessert. Mix well ono pint of flour
and ono and a half teaspoons of baking
powder with Just enough milk to make
a soft batter, rut Into greased cups
first a layer of batter and then a layer
of any preserves, such as raspberry
Jam, preserved strawberries, etc., then
another layer of batter, and so on until
the cup Is full. Steam for twenty min
utes, and serve with this sauce: Half
a cup of butter ami one cup of finely
powdered sugar, teaspoonful of vanilla
and two tablespoons of wine, or fruit
Juice if preferred. One-fourth cup of
boiling water, white of one egg beaten
to a foam. Cream tho butter, add the
sugar, vanilla and wine. Just before
serving add the boiling water, then
add the egg and heat until quite foamy.
This is an excellent sauce for any
steamed or baked pudding.
Curling the Hair
in New Ways
NOW that the mushroom hat has oome to stay
at least, for aivother season the hairdressers
are reaping their harvest over and over agal'i,
for the hair must be worn fluffy to make these haes
at all becoming;. Many of us have not- seventy-five
cents to give these professional, hairdressers every
few days, and we must makeshift as best we can
with home-made devices. i
Shampooing and properly drying the hair has much
to do with the home work. Perhaps you do not
know that if you dry your hair over a great big roll
of paper like a pompadour, your hair will stand up
naturally. If you wear your hair parted in the
middle, part It while still wet and let it dry that
way; likewise, for those who part it at the side. If
you wear It low on one side of your forehead, pull
the lock down In that manner while It is drying, and
you will find that the erstwhile unruly lock will
stay well put. Dry the hair in the sun without fail,
and, If the day is not too cold, in the open air,
There are many artificial curlers to be worn at
night, but most of them have rubber on them In one
form or another. This Is most Injurious. Your
choice lies between two methods, the old fashioned
curl papers or rags, or the kid curlers. Remember
that you want waves and not crimps, so make the
roll very large. Hair to curl well must be "lly; this
13 something that you must look after. Occasionally
sifting a little talcum powder Into the hair Is good
to relieve this oily condition, but the powder must
be well brushed out after it is applied.
There are many patented curling fluids on the
market, sold under fancy names, but Just plain old
fashioned quince seed lotion is about as good as any.
The following lotion has also been used with great
success. It should not be used more than once a
week, as It is apt to dry up the hair:
1 ounce of gum arable; once of good moist
sugar; pint of pure hot water. Dissolve this, and
when cold add 2 fluid ounces of alcohol; 6 grains
each of bichloride of mercury and sal-nmmoniuc.
These last two should be dissolved in the alcohol
before admixture. Lastly, add enough water to make
the whole a pint and perfume with any desired
cologne. Apply to the hair and then put It up on
kid curlers to dry.
Perhaps the most successful way of making a deep
wave Is done in the following manner: Separate
your hair Into about a dozen strands and twist them
around large rolls of paper so they look like big
balls of hair. Now pinch them with what is known
i pinching iron, if you can get one, and if not,
have some member of your family hold a flatlron
lightly upon each roll until you feel that the heat
has gone well through the hair. Of course, the hair
must be wet when put on the rolls; the iron will do
the drying. If possible do the final drying in the
hot sun, but be sure the hair Is perfectly dry before
the papers are taken off. If the hair is to be worn
in a pompadour, take the papers out when the hair
is almost dry, but not thoroughly so. Do not comb
It out, but take a big roll of paper like a "rat." and
put on your head. Let the hair dry over this, and
when dried It will stand up naturally In that man
ner. Be sure to dry your hair in the shape It Is to
be worn. This is a most Important point.
If you have not enough hair of your own and you
find it necessary to buy some that is false, do not
invest In a cheap "rat" that Is sold at the notion
counters for 25 cents. These are made of dirty
scraps of hair, pickings of almost anything. They
Irritate the scalp and often are the cause of disease.
Get what is known as a "transformation" or a false
niece made from natural hair, matching your own
as nearly as possible. If you cannot afford this sort
of false piece, go without any; but do not, I pray
you, wear those cheap wired "rats."
D
Veils for Windy Weather
(iriihniii Pudding- Is another simple
dessert that any child could eat with
out harm to its digestion. Two cups
of graham flour, half cup of butter,
one cup of milk, one cup molasses, one
cup of raisins and one egg. Take a
teaspoon each of cloves, cinnamon, all
spice and soda, Holl two hours, and
Serve With a llatlld snnc flnvnro,! wltlt
I lemon.
AMIS FAS1UON has said we must
have no hips this season. An
other mandate that she has send
forth Is that all well-dressed women
must wear a veil with all street cos
tumes. The latter order seems to have
been gratefully accepted by the cring
ing public, for rarely is a woman seen
on the street this season without a veil
of some sort or description, We who live
In big cities have a large assortment
to choose from; those of us who are
favored with gold and sheckles can
satisfy our every want and have a veil
for each and every costume; but the
woman who lives out of town, with a
small purse, must manage with fewer
veils and less conspicuous styles.
These populnr face coverings r.re
made mostly of two materials chiffon
and net. As both of these materials
are to be purchased by the yard in any
department store, the making of veils
at home Is easily accomplished and nt
a great saving of money.' Brown Is by
far the most becoming and most popu
lar color for all-round servlce. Brown
net veils, made up, cost from two to
five dollars each at the stores. The
clover girl can save at least one-half
of this amount by buying brown "ring
dot" net at the lace counter and making
the veil at home. The long sweeping
veils worn so much last summer are
past' and gone. To-dny the longest veil
in demand Is a yard and a half. The
ends no longer flow In the winds, mak
ing an ungainly sweep of chiffon flying
after us. They are snugly tucked up
undor the back rim of the hat and
phuted tightly on the back of the hair
by means of a fine hairpin or fancy veil
pin. Hut remember no long streamers
at the back!
Whatever the color of your new win
ter hat, match it in chiffon or chiffon
cloth of thin quality. If the hat is
very large you will need a yard and
half. To be made In fashionable style
this goods should be edged all around
with some contrasting fabric, but of
the same color. By that I mean edge
the chiffon with three rows of tiny
brown velvet ribbon or brown silk lace
or insertion with Irregular edge. Or
if you wish it perfectly plain, then hem
stitch It all around or feather-itltch it
with bro -:i floss. You cannot buy
mown eogings or Insertion, but ' you
can dye white lace to any desired shade
by the investment of ten cents in anv
reliable dye. These chiffons and nets
come In every conceivable shade, and
any hat or plume can be matched al
most exactly.
Nets that are dotiblo width should be
cut In half for ordinary ' sized hats.
Put the other half away until the part
you are wearing is soiled and mussed,
then take out the fresh one, and you
will have pretty veils all winter.
Veils are not worn In the evening ex
cept for the purpose of keeping your
hair in order going to and coming
from a certain objective point. If you
wear a veil In going to the theatre, re
ception or other place of amusement
you must take it off entirely when you
arrive, and it is always better not to
wear them at all after dark unless ab
solutely necessary as a protection
against wind and bad weather.
The woman in mourning who is not
wearing crepe will And that a perfectly
Plain hemstitched chiffon veil Is her
hest choice. A veil for this purpose
must have no dots, and fancy nets are
not permlssahle.
PLUM PUDDING
IMum ruddlDKi Take two cups of
alslns, two cups currants, two cups
suet, one-half cup almonds, blanched
and chopped fine, two cups flour, two
ups grated stale bread crumbs, one-
half cup each of citron, orange andj
lemon peol, eight eggs, one cup of
sugar, one-half cup cream, one-half
up each of sherry and brandy, largo
pinch salt and some grated nutmeg,
one teaspoon baking powder. Put into
large bowl the raisins, seeded; cur-
unts. washed and picked; suet, chop
ped very fine; citron, orange and lemon
peel, chopped fine; sugar, wine, bran
dy, eggs, and lastly the cream. Add
sifted Hour with baking powder, salt
and the bread crumbs, mix all together
and put In well buttered molds, or
bowls, set in pan of boiling water to
reach half way up sides of molds, and
steam for live hours. Turn out on dish
carefully. This will make two large
puddings, or several small ones. They
can be put away and heated when
wanted by steaming for two hours,
cni-e being taken to allow the steam
to penetrate the pudding. When serv
ing, pour a cupful of brandy over It
and set tire to It when taken to the
table.
ADVICE TO GUESTS
THERE are some guests who are
moody and unhappy if left one
' moment without amusement
companionship of some sort. Every
hour of the day and every moment of
every hour must be carefully planned
and filled for them with diversion, or
time hangs very, very heavy on their
hands, and they become greatly dls
gusted and wearied with their unhappy
situation.
"To understand the true art of mak
Ing yourself an agreeable guest is to
take care that you do not fall a victim
to this unfortunate habit, and is also
very thoughtfully to give your hostess
a little breathing spell every day when
you are within her gates. She has, you
must remember, many household duties
to perform. There are her children
her servants and her husband to be
considered, and you must not, therefore,
put In a first claim on quite all of her
time and attention.
Once or twice a day, then, make it
habit to while the hours away by
yourself or with another guest, or with
a member of the family who Is quite at
leisure to help you And diversion.
A woman can always steal away to
her room for a nap after lunch or go
for a walk with the children or retire
with her novel and her rocking chair
into a shady spot on the piazza, a-nd If
you can do this good naturedly and
naturally. If you can thus display
little of the spirit of independence and
contentment with your own company,
you t -acceed in Just about doubling the
comfort and true consolation that your
hostess finds In your presence.
REPOSE
THE NEW FANCY
WORK
V
HE girl who would make the
best showing for the time spent
on fancy work, no longer em
broiders center pieces and doylies. To
day, work Is put on bits of dress In
stead, and all because of the craze of
hand embroidered accessories found on
the up-to-date gowns. Put a bowl of
flowers In the center of the table and
forego the hand-worked center piece,
covered with roses, each rose repre
senting hours and, hours of work. In
their stead embroider a band with
which to trim your be.t hat. embroider
bretelles for a chiffon blouse, a vest
for your tailor-made gown, collar and
cuffs for an evening coat, girdle for a
party frock, and Innumerable pieces
of neckwear.
F you have a desire to succeed In
pleasing people remember that
"repose is as necessary in con
versation as In a picture," and that
you cannot do better than relax a lit
tle when you talk. Do not let your
shyness or your carelessness In habit
place you at so sad a disadvantage
that you swing vigorously -back and
forth in a rockhng-chalr as you talk or
listen. Willie conversing do not shake
your foot, alter your position ten
times In as many minutes, twiddle with
your watch chain, a lock of hair, or a
button on your coat. Do not play a
devil's tuttoo with your fingers on the
arm of your chair, pick up and play
with evenly small object within your
reach, run your hands repeatedly
through your hair, and nodding your
head with-almost mechanical rapidity
repeat half automatically, "Yes," "yes,"
"really," "really," etc.
These are all merely foolish manner-
Isms that not infrequently grate most
cruelly. Sometimes, indeed, these small
but easily conquered faults amount to
postive annoyance In the eyes of
critical and well-bred persons, and
then they go far toward destroying
your ability to claim serious attention.
SHE WROTE THEM
N the Beecher family the name of
Mrs. Stowe, of "Uncle Tom's Cab
In" fame, was often quoted to the
ounger generation as one having au
thority. On one occasion a grand-niece
of Mrs. Stowe became very angry at a
play-mate and, stamping her foot, said:
I hate you. and I don't want anything
more to do with you, nor your man-ser
vant, nor your maid-servant, nor your
ox. nor your ass."
Her mother sternly reproved her,
asking her if she knew what she was
saying.
Little Miss Beecher promptly re
plied: "Yes, the Ten Commandments."
"Well, do you know who wrote
them?"
The child, looking disgusted, an
swered. "Goodness, yes. Aunt Harriet
did, I s'pose."
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