Image provided by: Oregon City Public Library; Oregon City, OR
About Oregon City courier. (Oregon City, Or.) 1896-1898 | View Entire Issue (May 6, 1898)
ALL FLUFF AND FUSS
LIGHT AND AIRY BODICE CREA
TIONS FOR SPRING."
Pnffa and Frills, Shirring and Smock
ing, Are UBed with Great Profuse
neas on This Season's Swellest Waists
-Sonic Very Pretty Popular Models.
What Is Fashionable in Gotham.
New York correspondence:
UST about half
sham are some of
the Ingenious af
fairs that are class
ified as bodices In
the newest fash
ions. Little cape
lets are shown, for
instance, that are
nothing more than
an elaborated col
lar. At the back
with only a point
appearing from the
throat to between
the shoulders, said
point widening to
the shoulders, noth
ing but a collar Is
pretended. In front
a pair of long tabs sloped and fitted In
to the waist, and revers showing at the
necU at each side of the vest effect that
may be either a part of the capelet or
what Is allowed to show of the under
bodice. The wholo gives quite the ap
pearance of a close-fitting coat.
Sleeves of the under bodice show, with
perhaps a shoulder frill added that be
longs to the capelet
Such a covering is just the thing to
put on over one of the new gauze
bodices that, with all their simplicity of
cut, have the look of being so elaborate.
It is a wonder how much trimming can
be accomplished In a small space now
that shirring, smocking and puffing
have reached such a point of profuse-
OP SILK GAUZE, BUT THAT'S NOT HALF THE STOKT.
ness. The entire space between throat
or yoke line and belt often extending
straight across the sleeves to below the
bust Hue, Is worried into a series of
puffs and tiny frills of the most lacy
nnd charming delicacy. Three or four
rows of tiny pinched up puffs, then a
conventional design followed by a tiny
gauzy frill or by narrow lace made just
as full as It can be, or by baby ribbon
frilled first and then set aloug the lines
of the design. Then come rows of puffs,
another row of frilled pattern, and so
HERE THE FLLFF WAS CnlFFOV.
on to the belt. The result Is delicious.
As a rule the puffs are picked up of the
material of the bodice that Is, they are
real puffs, but sometimes little puffs or
frills of colored gauze are set on the
white or black gauze foundation. In
the bodice of this type that appears at
the left In to-day's large picture, the
material was white silk gauze, and the
trimming, all of which was of the set-on
sort, consisted of puffs and black silk
muslin. The black satin belt had sash
ends, but these were not fringed, a fact
that goes to show that fringing for
gashes Is waning. Above the yoke line
of this bodice the skin showed through
the gauze, and In many such the arm
shows all the way to the shoulder.
As the companion model to this In
dicates, it is sometimes the yoke por
tion of the gauze bodice that Is made
elaborate by dainty lines of smocking
or shirring, below the yoke the bodice
being simply a maze of smocking. Won
derful effects are gotten now by the
use of cross threads, and material
comes by the yard pleated Into the mosu
elaborate smocked effects, but beware!
If you should be caugui In the rain, or
even stand around In the damp, all this
pressing will come out and the beauty i
of your bodice be gone forever. Orange
silk gauze that had cross theads of,
white was, used here, the whole body:
being smocked, puffed white chiffon
gave the yoke, and sleeves and belt
were orange silk. High neck and long
sleeves are the rule for this sort of gar-
niei.it, and so made, though neck and
arms may show through the gauze, the
garment Is admissible for house, Itiea
ter or garden wear. So such a bodice
is a good Investment just now, be
cause of the many uses to which it may
Because of their perishability these
bodices are not so attractive to women
who must practice economy as were
other sorts that Dame Fashion has
brought. As yet they are susceptible of
being twisted to that everlasting ques-
tlon of saving. Think a moment; will
not these pretty transparent bodices
make charming covering for a silk
bodice of a past senson Silk does split
alas! especially the taffeta that has been
so much worn for the past few seasons,
and which makers have vied with each
other In making Inexpensive. Now, no
matter how much split a silk bodice Is,
It can be mended and serve very nicely
under a shirred gauze waist And espe
cially since the bare arm under the
gauze Is admitted, this scheme can be
charmingly carried out. The gauze
waist Is not supposed to fit closely, and
it Is often made on a foundation of very
fine lawn or net so that It can be
slipped on over various foundations,
The next bodice Is a good one to keep
In mind in this kind of contriving. It
was white chiffon over turquoise blue
silk, sleeves shirred to the puff, and
collar and belt of the blue silk,.
In all but her headgear the tailor-
made girl of this springtime builds her
faith on severity of finish. She may
be correct indeed, may not otherwise
be very stylish In millinery that Is
more fanciful than anything she would
have dared to wear for several sea
sons. But below her chin all outward
show Is not showy. Yet this very same
manly young woman delights In sur
prising her observers, knows full well
that she can do it In no more thorough
way than by suddenly flashing a touch
of dainty femininity upon them, and
does It in just that way whenever she
can. Now, bodices like those of the
last three pictured models may be
worn with plain tailor skirts and con
cealed by equally plain jackets. A
woman may know from evidence
about the throat the nature of what Is
within, but male admirers are all un
suspecting. So when she throws back
the jacket and discloses the inner
elaborateness and fluff, he Is at once
subdued to just the point she wants to
keep him. With this Idea In view, she
will choose for her spring suit a serge
or something plainly utilitarian In
stylish shade, so that the association
with the delicate bodice may be all the
more striking a contrast.
Plain skirts and jackets like those In
the concluding cut are usually accom
panied by some form of Inner layer
that permits the use of starched linen.
These two suits were blue: the left ono
a bluet shade, the Jacket with box
front, fitted back and trimming of
stitching; the other on the turquoise or
der, the blazer trimmed with bias folds
of the goods and disclosing a wahttcoat
of canary cloth.
BLUEBIRDS THAT ANNOUNCE SPUING.
SHAKSPEARE IN SHORTHAND.
Gernian Rewriting the Plays in Eliza
Dr. Eduard Engel has written the fol
lowing letter to one of the Berlin news
"In a lecture I delivered some years'
ago to the Berlin Society of Stenogra
phers, who use Stolze's system, I sug
gested that those accurately acquainted
with the oldest English shorthand sys
tems of the sixteenth century should
try to ascertain whether many of the
deficiencies of the text of Shakspeare
might not be explained by stenograph
ic mistakes. The Idea was suggested to
me by the old and well-founded conjec
ture of Shnkspearean scholars that the
oldest copies of Shakspeare's plays the
so-called quartos were printed from
stenographic notes, taken In the thea
ter, and that many of the unlntelliglblll-
tles of the text are due to this. My
suggestion fell on fruitful soil, and I
hav.e now the pleasure of making the
excellent work of a young savant who
has thus sprung at one leap Into the
ranks of our best Shakspearean schol
ars, known to wider circles. In a series
of articles on Shakspeare and the be
ginnings of English stenography, Herr
Kurt Dewtsehelt has proved beyond the
shadow of a doubt that the quarto edi
tions of Shakspeare's plays were pira
ted editions printed from stenographic
notes, that the stenographic system
used was that of Timothy Bright, who
was born in 1550, and that Innumerable
mistakes In the quartos, Innumerable
contradictions between them and the
first authorized folio editions, can be at
once and most simply explained by the
defects of that stenographic system and
the lndexterity of the stenographers of
that time. Herr Dewischeit has con
,firmed my conjecture almost beyond
my own expectation. He fs at present
the only person who possesses all the
requisite qualifications for this quite
new kind of text investigation, and It Is
to be wished that he, with his accurate
knowledge of the oldest English sten
ography, combined with solid Shak
spearean scholarship, would subject
the texts of the dramas to a thorough
reinvestigation. The puriieatlon of the
text of Shakspeare Is raised by him for
the first time from arbitrary fantastic
ality to the rank of a strict seieuce,
with which, however, only Shakspear
ean scholars theoretically and practic
ally trained In stenographic questions
are at liberty to busy themselves. Sel
dom has a higher, never has a more de
lightful, task fallen to stenography."
A BAD COMPANION..
He Didn't Like to Correct a Lady, but
He had To.
The man with bronzed skin and long-
lsh hair was hanging upon every word
that the charming young woman spoke,
says the Washington Star. She was
telling of an actress whom she greafly
T will never forget how she looked,1
the young woman said. "She was as
beautiful as Juno." , .
The weather-beaten auditor moved
uneasily, and then said: "I beg yer
pardon, miss, but I ain't sure that
heard yer remark Jest right"
"I said that she was as beautiful as
"It ain't fer me ter c'rect a lady," he
began in apologetic tones.
"I am quite willing to be corrected
when there Is any reason for doubt,"
she replied, In a tone with traces of con-
gealment through It "But I do not
perceive how this can be such a case."
"I don't persume to conterdlet no
body," he replied. "I haven't no obser
vations to make further than that there
ain't no accountln' fur tastes."
"Have you ever seen this actress?"
"Then I don't see how you are quail
fled to speak."
"Might I make so bold as to Inquire
whether you was as lur west as Brit
"Then, miss, you can't re'llze that I'm
standln' up fur the lady's good looks as
much as you are. Ye can't believe half
of what these here miners that come
East tell ye. If ye ain't even been as
fur West as British Columbia, It frtan'R
to reason that ye can't have no Idea of
what a lonesome, ramshackle, frize-up-
lookin' place Juneau Is."
Managing the Woman with a Whip.
It has always been a question with
the country newspaper man what he
would do If an Indignant woman set
out to horsewhip him. Some years
ago W. W. Wick of Topeka was run
nlng a country paper and a woman as
sailed him on the main street of the
town. He gathered her up under his
arm and paraded around the square,
She kicked and squirmed, but he march
ed laughingly along, displaying her to
the crowd that had gathered. It mortl
fled the woman so much that she left
town on the first train and never both
ered the editor afterward.
His Llnguiatio Limit.
He had been a Latin scholar,
And had mastered modern Greek,
For a paltry wagered dollar
He learned Hebrew in a week. .
Sanscrit and antique Phoenician,
Or the script of Yucatan
Were as simple as addition
To this luiiKuage-learned man.
Patois, race pronunciations
And the Chinese alphabet
He knew well to fifty nations-
He could speak their tonime; and yet
Finally his learning failed him
And his thought aud speech were "off,1
For no langunKe gifts availed nun
With the dialect of golf!
Co il Tar for lives.
Coal tar, when used for dyes, yields
sixteen shades of blue, the same n
ber of yellow tints, twelve of orange,
nine of violet, and numerous other
ors and shades.
Burning kisses always result
Sam's Horn Sounds a Warning Note
to the Unredeemed,
RAINING Is the
t of gaining.
Quietness is the
magnet of pence.
Patience Is the
Good works are
the voice of faith.
Influence Is the
magnet of char
acter. Capability I s
the polestar oi
Discipline is the crucible of responsi
In forgiving a fault, we may Inspire
The man who stands for God Is safe
to stand alone.
The gospel means not law over men,
but love In them.
Temptation Is the balance whera
character Is weighed.
Conscience makes cowards of only
those who fail to obey It
Emotional Christians, like Jelly fish,
float with the tide.
To put works against faith is to con
trast the tree with Its roots.
To define Is to limit; a finished theol
ogy would make God finite.
Love has emulation without strife,
unity without uniformity.
One's faith shows less what ho Is
than what he is trying to be.
Beware of prosperity; luxury was
the death-knell of Rome's vigor.
Knowledge and wisdom make a
strong team when hitched together.
Those who worship wealth, will bow
in adoration before good clothes.
Record of a Kussiun Hospital.
Moscow has a hospital large enough
to hold 7,000 persons. It was founded
In 1704, and at present takes In children
at the rate of forty a day, or about 15,-
D00 a year. There are twenty-elx physi
cians and about 000 nurses. Durlug the
first century of Its existence the hos
pital received and brought up no fewer
than 408,500 children. On his retreat
from Moscow In 1812 Napoleon gave
special orders that this building should
be spared. , ' .-. ..
The counterfeit coin may be lead, but
it's hard to push.
medicine but bad food.
Ask your doctor. j
- The spiders that spin webs are in an
nfinite minority compared with those
which do not. Ground spiders, as the
non-spinners are railed, abound every
where, and depend on agility and swift
ness of foot to catch their prey.
SHAKE INTO YOUR SHOES.
Allen's Foot-Ease, a powder for the feet.
It cures painful, swollen smarting feet and
instantly takes the stiitR out of corns and
nun ions, its tire greatest com tort discov
ery of the age. Alien's Foot-Kase makes
tight-fitting or new shoes feel easy. It is a
certain cure forchilhlains, sweating, damn,
callous and hot, tired aching feet. We
have over 10.000 testimonials of cures. Try
it today. Sold by all druggists and shoe
stores. Iiv mail for 25c. in stamps Tria
package Fit EE. AddreBS Alien 8. Olm
sted, Le ltoy, N. Y.
In Paris the trees in the public
streets are treated with as much at
tention as are the plants in botani
cal gardens. Officials look after
their welfare, and as a result the
streets are beautiful and comfortable.
HOME PRODUCTS AND PUKK FOOD.
All Eastern Syrup, so-called,
is made from
light colored and of heavy body,
glucose. "7m (Jamen friii." Is made from
Sugar Cane and Is strictly pure, it li for taie
by tlrst-class grocers, in cans only. Manufac
tured bvthe Pacific Coast ByhupCo. Allgeu.
nine "Ten Onnini Drivi" have the manufac
turer's name lithographed on every can.
100 ItEWAKD SI 00.
The readers of this paper will be pleased to
JBarn that there ia at least one dreaded disease
that science has been able to cure in all Us
taxes, aud that iscatarrh. II nil's Catarrh Cure
Is the ouly positive cure known to the medical
fraternity. Catarrh being a constitutional dis
ease, requires a Constitutional treatment.
Hall's Catarrh Cure is taken intarnallv. ac Una
directly upon the blood and mucous surfaces
of the system, thereby destroying the founda
tion of the disease, and giving the patient
strength by building up tire constitution and
assisting nature in doing Its work. The pro
prietors have so much faith In its curative
powers, that they offer One Hundred Dollars
for any case that it falls to cure, Bend for list
ol testimonials. Address
F. J. CHENEY A CO- Toledo. O.
Sold by druggists, 760.
Hail's Family fills are the best.
As iron expands with heat, the Eiffel
tower is said to be fivo inches taller
when the temperature is high than it
is in the cool of the day.
f IT Permanently Cured.
No fits or nervousnes
Of IIC Ulln-' II...-.
Ill after first day's use of Mr.
Nerve Restorer. Bend for FKKK sw.oo trial
bottle and treatise. DR. R. H. K l-'N h, Ltd., KJ0
Arch street, Philadelphia, Pa.
In 1816 the value of a bushel of
wheat in England was equal to that of
a pound of nails. Today a bushel of
wheat will buy 10 pounds of nails.
After being swindled by all others, send us stamp
Vir particulars of King Holotuon's Treasure, the
ONLY renewer of manly strength. Mason
CHEMICAL CO., P. O. Bus 747, Philadelphia, Pa.
I know that my life was saved by Piso's
Cure for Consumption. John A Miller,
Au Sable, Michigan, April 21, 18'J5.
One of the German oitiea boasts a
street laid with rubber.
In the spring cleanse your system by
using: Dr. 1'funder'a Greg-un Wood Purifier.
tUniS Wrir.nl All tLSfc lalLS,
Lough Bjruo, Tasua uoi
In time. Md by rtmggln.
Luxury of the Current.
Electricity can be applied to in
numerable uses about the house, sup
planting the less convenient devices
and contrivances, but, unfortunately,
the new ones using the current almost
always cost more than the old. Where
money ia no object ami luxury and con
venience are supreme considerations
everything oonceivable oan be done by
electrioity. For instance, on the yaoht
Niagara, built for George Gould, and
recently launched, the electric plant is
employed to furnish light for 440 16-candle-power
inoamlesoent lamps, and
storage batteries are provided capable
of supplying energy for 80 more. The
dynamos are so designed that as many
as 900 lamps can be illumined for pur
poses of display, besides a powerful
searchlight on the bridge. There are
also electric heaters, curling tongs,
smoothing irons, ranges, warming-pans
and electric elevators. Electricity
will operate the laundry and drying
room, it will heat chafing dishes and
bring out the mueio of a big orches
trion. Call bells, telephones and such
minor electric devices are also provided
For the past three vears the cement
trade section of the British board of
t"ule has been making investigations
into the question of cement admixtures,
and the result is that the board an
iiounces that "Portland cement be de
fined as a mixture of two or more suit
able materials intimately and artifically
mixed in the requisite proportions, and
afterward properly treated, to whioh
nothing has been added during or after
calcination except that an addition not
exceeding 2 per cent of gypsum is per
missablo." If anything more be added
the article so produced shall not be
called Portland cement. The worst
adulterants for Portland cement ne
decided to be racstone and blast-fur-
naoe slag, the latter by far the more
There are four millionaires in Eng
land to one in France.
BAD PAY AND HARD WOKK.
The bad p&y and hard work of trained nurses
has often been made tho subject of benevolent
remonstrance by eminent medical men and
nonprofessional philanthropists. It is well for
an lnvulUl, before he gets so bad as to need a
nurse or doctor, to use Hostetter's Stomach Bit
ters if he has chills and fever, constipation,
rheumatism, dyspepsia and nervousness. Use
In France there have been found
only two criminals, whose measure
ments by the Bertillou system coin
cided. Meteors rush through space at the
rate oi 25 miles a second. They are
not usually larger than a pebble, and
on striking the earth's atmosphere they
immediately dissolve into gas.
For use in place of too clips on a
bieyole a plate is attached to the shoe
having a recess in which a projection on
the pedal fits to hold the rider's foot
While the bishop of Sodor and Man
was watohing the cutting down of one
of his trees recently, the tree fell upon
him, knocking him down. It catching
on a railing saved his life.
Experiments with locomtives on the
Wheeling & Lake Erie railroad show
that a slight addition of graphite to the
oil used for lubricating purposes pro
AN OPEN LETTER TO MOTHERS.
We are asserting in the courts our right to the
exclusive use of the word "CASTfJKIA," end
'mCHKR'SCASi'OKIA," asourlrade Mark.
I, Dr. Samuel Pitcher, of Hyannls, Massachusetts,
was the originator of " PITCH ER'3 CASTOKI A,"
the same that has borne and does now bear the
fac simile signature of CHAS. II. FLETCHER on
every wrapper. This is the original " PITCHER'S
CASTORIA" which has been used in the homes
Of the mothers of America for over thirty years.
Look Carefully at the wrapper and see that it la
the kind you havt always bought, and has the
signature of CHAS. H. FLETCHER on the
wrapper. No one has authority from me to nse
my name except The Centaur Company of which
Chas. H. Fletcher is President.
March I, iSoj. SAMUEL PITCHER, M.D,
In the British lord chamberlain's de
partment the position of chimney-sweep
is held by a woman, and the office of
statuary mason is also filled by a mem
ber of the fair sex.
"A Perfect Type of the Highest Order of
Excellence In Manufacture.''
..Costs Less Tfian QUE CENT a Cm..
Bt sure that yoo get the Oenuina Articla,
made at DORCHESTER, MASS. by
WALTER BAKER & CO. Ltd.
Tested and True.
fir tracing and locating Oold or HUrer
Ore. lost or bttrlt'l treasures. M. Is.
JTOWLKH, Bus M7,frvultiUisun,Couu.
Expelled by Lydia E. Pinkham'a
Mrs. B. A. Lombard, Box 71, West-
dale, Mass. , writes; " I have reason to
think that I would not m r-ere now if
It had not been for Lydia E. Pinkham'a '
Vegetable Compound. It cured me of
a fibroid tumor in my womb.
" Doctorscould donothingforme, and
they could not cure mo at the hospital.
I will tell you about it ;
" I had been in my usual health, but
had worked quite hard. When my
monthly period came on, I flowed very
badly. The doctor gave mo medicine,
but it did me no good. He said tho
flow must be stopped if possible, and
he must find the cause of my trouble.
" Upon examination, he found there
was a fibroid tumor in my womb, , and
gave me treatment without any benefit
whatever. About that time a lady
called on me, and recommenced Lydia
E. Pinkham's Vegetable Compound (
said she owed her life to it I said I
would try it, and did. Soon after tht)
flow became more natural and regular.
I still continued taking the Compound
for some time. Then the doctor made an
examination again, and found every
thing all right The tumor had passed
away, and that dull acho was gone."
It can be truthfully stated that
such a result can be accomplished by no
other remedy upon the market, and
forcibly proves the peculiar virtue of
tlia Vegetable Compound
Is the working capital
of humanity. He who
loses that is wrecked
Indeed. Is your health
nuliiigyou, your am
bition, vigor, vitality
wasting away T
When others full coo
For the speedy, safe and permanent cure of all
Nervous, Chronic- and Hueoial diseases, even '
In their most aggravated forma. There Is no man
In the world who has effected bo many permanent
cures In both Men and Women of troubles willed
other physlcans of acknowledged ability had given
upas honplexs as this emfnenc specialist.
NERVOUS DKBIMTY and all Its attending
ailments, of YOUJiO. M 1DI1LK-AUE1) and OLD
MEN, The awful etTeota of neglected or improp
erly treated cases, causing drums, weakness of
body and brain, dlszlness, falling memory, lack oi
energy and contl'ience, pains in back, loins and
kidneys, and muny other distressing symptoms,
unfitting one fer study, business or enjoyment of
life, l)r lUtrliiTe can cure you, no matter who of
what has failed.
WEAK M EN. He restores l"st vigor and vi
tality to weak men. Organs of the body which
have been weukened through dnea.e, overwork,
excesses or Indiscretions are rest oredio full power,
strength and vigor through hl'sowu successful sys
tern of trentni"!!!.
VARICOCELE, hydrocele, swelling and ten
derness of the ghoul treated with mi lulling success.
Sl'ECIAL 1IISKASKS. Inflammation, dis
charges, etc.. which, if neglected or improperly
treated, break duwn the sysieiu, oaut,e kidney and
bladder disease, ete.
DISK A HEN OF WOMEN. Prompt and es
pecial attention given to ali their many ailments.
UKlir, 1 1 yon are aware oi any iruuuie. uu
NOT DKI.AY. Call on Ur.Baicllrfetodar, If yon
cannot call, write him. Ills valuable book frea to
all sutTerers. CONSULTATION HKK and OonH-
rientlal at office or bv letter. .
E. M. RATCLIFFE, 713 First In, SEITTIE, MSI
PURE p:ikt ready mixed
Best Paint for Dealer or Consumed
Color Cards Sent Free.
Cleveland Oil I Paint Mfg. Co.,
T w 1 in rr
(20th Century Train.)
between Minneapolis, St. Paul
and Chicago, is entertainingly
described in an Illustrated
booklet, which will be fur
nished free on application to
W. H. MEAD, Gen. Agt., 0
848 Washington Street,
008 Flnt Annua,
BUY THE GENUINE
SYRUP OF FIGS
... MANrjTAOTTJRKB BT ...
CALIFORNIA FIO SYRUP CO.
tr-XOTBTHB If A MB.
Mine money by succesful
speculation in Uilcago.
buy ami sell wheat oa mar.
Kins. Fortunes hav hn
cade on a small benluiiing by trailing In fu
tures. ,n rit lor tun particulars, jjeti ol ret.
erence glren. gereraf years' expe-riciu-eou tbt
Chicago Board of Trade, and a thorongh know.
ledge ol the business. Hand for our frea rafer.
nee book. DOWNING, HOPKINS & Co..
fhifago Hoard of Traria brokers. Ofucag la
Portland, Oregon and Seattle, Wash.
Is It Wrong?
Get it Right.
Keep It Right,
Moore's HaTealed Hameily wllldolt. Thre
doses will make you feel better. Oet It Iron
your druggist or any wholesale drug house, or
torn Stewart A Holmes Drug Co., Seattle.
Willi fist, C0S
SPRINQ EYI CHAIN
Plain or with Cultar. The best new Is In the mar.
.. v'sed hy all sack sawrrs. Fur sale toy all aa
rul nierctuunlls stores, or by
WILL FIMCK CO.,
Market Btreet, Ban Francisco, Cal.
57?. K. C. o.l9,'T.