CROOK COUNTY JOlTtVAIi
No Regard for
Cost of Gowns
There Is every evidence In the pres
ent season's models (hat the Purls de
, signer Is In no way Influenced by the
(temperature of the season for which
jhe designs, says s prominent fashion
co-respondent.
Paris has Just passed through a
coalles winter, with short sleeves and
no collars. Now a hot summer threat
ens, with long slteves and muffling
collars. Is It genius or contrarlty that
lias brought aboit this utter disre
gard of seasonable effects?
In fact, there are many other ques
tions ahoiit present-day dress which
one might think of asking, among
which Is, "Why should multiple carat
diamond? be the fashion w hen half the
world is starving? And why, at a
time when there Is not sufficient ma
terial to cover the bodies of the pro
files of the earth, should the mills be
engaged on costly fabrics of the slow
est possible construction?" A close
and minute analysis might explain the
seeming contradiction, but there Is no
time for this If we are to talk of the
new models.
Taffeta and Lace Combined.
Among the clothes for spring and
summer are many suits and dresses
developed In taffeta. Taffeta and lace,
as well as taffeta and tulle, are fre
quently combined to produce the more
dressy effects.
Laces of the finest and rarest qual
ity are used another extravagance of
this season. These are all cf a fine
tulle variety, hand run or hand em
broidered, and are mostly In black.
cream or tea color, the two latter
shades being used on black taffeta
models, while the black luce appears
In conjunction with high colors and
white. Black on black is never seen,
nor is white on white. The principal
novelty Is taffeta cire, and while the
most exclusive designers are using
this In their orgluul creations, many
copies are of the ordinary taffeta.
In the plain taffetas, tete de negre
and Wvy blue are the favorite colors,
while woven novelties are in change
able and shot' effects. One that Is un
usual has a chain or warp In multi
colors with an occasional thread of
black. This is woven with a solid col
or filling thread, thereby giving almost
the effect of a. dark "hlt-or-miss" rag
carpet, but with the pattern infinitely
. fine; In fact, almost Invisible.
Costliest of the Taffeta Family.
This vari-colored chain or fllling-ln
Is so elusive that the fabric must be
studied before one can really know
bow the cplor tone Is achieved. Of
' course, this silk is the most costly of
all the taffeta family. Imagine the
art and the difficulty of setting up the
chain in a thousand colors and then
blotting it out with a black rr brown
filling. Nor are these nwvelous taf
fetas confined to all-over patterns;
This model proves mat no color com- j
bination is too startling to find fa- j
vor in these days. It is of navy j
blue cotton eponge combined with
French blue voile In black and
white plaided design, with roses em
broidered in bright colors.
they are also shown with woven
stripes. The plain and the striped
patterns are much combined In the
new spring models.
Other novelties are black taffeta
dresses worked In English embroid
ery patterns with steel threads, and !
cut steel beads. The embroidery is !
very deep on the skirt, like the pat
terns of old-fashioned muslin skirt
ings, and the designs are almost Iden
tical. The same embroidery appears
on the bell sleeves, which are a little
longer than elbow length.
A beautiful dress ' treated In' this
way lias the skirt mounted to a low
waistline bodice cut In a rounding line
at the front and slightly pointed over
the hips, all the fullness being massed
at the sides In thick gathers. This
skirt Is suspended over a foundation
of silver cloth which has a black tulle !
hem showing between the scallops of
the embroidered edge. The bodice,
which Is of the taffeta, opens low In a
point at the front, showing the silver
. iitfe
1 i
foundation. There Is ruff of tulle
across the back of the neck and
shirred pieces of the tulle fall from
the elbows of the sleeves like short
scarf ends.
To picture this dress one need only
bark back to old-fashioned dresses
made of white muslin and trimmed
with footing and to replace these cot
ton effects with hlack silk, adding steel
bends and steel threads.
The most vivid colors are being used
hi street clothes as well as In those
for Indoor wear. One la developed
The most vivid colors appear in street
clothes as well as those for indoor
wear. The dress sketched shows
green and blue striped taffeta com
bined with plain navy blue, the lat
ter being used for the plaited under
skirt and slightly fitted bodice.
from navy blue taffeta ' used In con
nection with green and black striped
taffeta. The striped silk forms a tun
ic which Is hung over a very finely
plaited blue underskirt.
The color combinations in cotton
frocks are even inure striking than
those in the silks. It is interesting to
study. some of tnt-se because cotton
dresses will pli'.v a very Important
part in the fashionnhle summer ward-
i robe. Their use will not be confined
to the country ; we will wear them In
town as well ; In fact, almost any place
where a simple s!ik or cloth frock has
been worn in other years.
Bold Patterns and High Colorings.
Some of the latest novelties In cot
tons show a combination of the eponge
and volU? weaves. These are In bold
pattern! as well as In high colorings.
j One well-known house Is showing a
unuriiiiuK uress neveiopea in copper
color, beige and black, printed and
woven In a conventional design.
Another instance in which startling
colors are used In a cotton frock ap
pears In a model of cotton enonire In
! navy blue combined with French blue
voile in black and white plalded de
sign with roses embroidered In high
colors. The fact that this model has
proved Itself a popular one goes to
show that no color combination is too
startling to find favor these days.
The care which a great designer
Cherult gives to children's clothes
shows us how ipiportant little folks'
fashions are becoming. She makes
one charming dress with a skirt of
ecru handkerchief linen, over which
falls a straight, thort bodice of rob
in's egg blue. Th-re Is a watch pock
et containing a cunning toy watch and
fob, both made of blue taffeta. The
watch has a porcelain face but no
; works. The neck of the dress Is round
: and the arms are bare to half way
I above the elbow.
USE OF COLOR IN THE HOME
Tints Attractive In Clothes Are Not
to Be Spurned for Interior
Decoration.
The average woman fulls to realize
how color alters the appearance of her
home. Indeed, she is almost afraid to
use It except In a few set schemes of
tho crudest sort. Though In her dress,
In her embroidery, In the hat she Is
trimming, she may use it 'freely and
often with originality, yet In her
house decoration she Is too timid to
attempt any but the most common
place arrangements.
The high cost of labor and the dis
comfort of the necessary domestic up
heavals may be partly accountable,
but perhaps now that she has learned
how to paper a room and Is not afraid
of a paint brush she will riot be dis
couraged from experimenting.
Long Gloves Prominent.
The supremacy of short and flow
ing sleeves Is gradually encouraging
the wide-spread revival of longer
glove styles. The slxteen-button
monsquetalres In white promise to
be particularly favored both in silk
and In fine leather. In colors, soft,
mode, bisque and ivory shades are
to be prominent
MM
MRS. LAURENCE i
TRIES HER
HAND.
By KATE TUCKER.
I A ):. by Mi-Clur. ISwkp.r Syndlc.it)
The bugbear of .Doctor Laurence's
life as general pructltioner In the small
town of Crawford was cases that are
generally known as "nervous." lie
was courageous and versatile, as most
small-town doctors have to be. lie
would go his rounds fourteen hours
out of the twenty-four during epidem
ics; would go with steady nerve
through operations that would have
tried a more celebrated surgeon ; he
would listen patiently to the queries
of young mothers over their Infants'
teething difficulties all thnt sort of
thing. But when a patient said
"nerves" Doctor Laurence wished to
give up.
. Mrs. Laurence, however, had been
reading up on modern methods of
treating nervous disorders In the doc
tor's medical Journals and In the
popular magazines. Psychopathy was
her latest hobby, and somehow. In spite
of the five little Laurences, Mrs.
Laurence always had time for some
hobby.
"I really feel," she told the doctor
one evening while the mother's help
er, Vera, was patiently putting the
younger two Laurences to bed and the
older two were dancing an Indian war
danoe as a preliminary to putting them
selves to bed, "I really think that I
would have a positive talent for psy
chic healing. Tou know reputable doc
tors are taking ltnp now. There Is
wonderful future for It. 1 don't see
why you don't go In for that sort of
thing. All the best doctors are doing
It. Take Robert Ludwell, for Instance.
His case Is purely psychopathic; per
fectly absurd for you to look at the
case In any other way. What you
want to do is to get down deep at the
root of the matter. He doesn't sleep
and he's losing weight, not because he
has overworked on that book of his,
as you tell bim, but because of some
fear image that lurks In his mind. It
Is your duty to probe down till you
find It, and then, through the force of
your mentality over his, to dispel that
fear Image,"
"So you said," commented Doctor
Laurence, and then "perfect bosh,
perfect bosh." He paced back and
forth before the living room open fire.
I wish I could do something for Ilob-
ert, however.
i
There was suddenly an unusual
note of pleading In Mrs. Laurence's
voice. "Will you let me try?" she
said, and apparently Doctor Laurence
agreed, although if he did agree It
was surely not because he had any
Interest In his wife's theory of psy
chic healing.
The first step In Mrs. Laurence's
campaign to cure Itohert Ludwell
took place the next evening, when
the doctor asked him to spend the
evening at his house, without, of
course, suggesting to him thnt Mrs.
Laurence was going to administer her
first treatment In psychic healing.
There was considerable confusion.
Vera, the mother's helper, had been
away on her very rare afternoon off.
The twins refused to he put to bed
by nn.vone else and their 'rebellion
gave the cue to the older child to
fall downstairs, with considerable In
Jury to his tired feelings, but . no
great bruising. So dinner was late
and. the confusion still was discern
ible wheq Robert arrived.
There were Intermittent walls from
the nursery, a slamming of dishes In
the kitchen and glimpses of the rnther
flush-faced, distracted Vera as she pur
sued the older children through the liv
ing room In her effort to pack them off
to bed. But Mrs. Laurence was not
one to be much ruffled hy such mild
ilomestlc confusion, and eventually she
managed to sit beside Mr. Ludwell
jlone before the fireplace and make
the first probing.
She discovered one thing. He had
a horror of boarding houses. Ho
disliked boarding house coffee. He
likewise had a horror of any sort of
confusion. He intimated when Mrs.
Laurence asked him point-blank why
he had never married that possibly It
was because he was a recluse by na
ture. He had to have quiet for his
writing.
So Mrs. Laurence decided to invite
Mr. Ludvel to leave his hoarding
house and spend a month at the Lau
rence establishment. There he would
have no more boarding house coffee,
there would be no more confusion, she
was sure.
She was surprised when he ac
cepted her and the doctor's Invita
tion. She hadn't expected he would
come so willingly. And the doctor
was even more surprised.
"He says he wants to be away from
confusion?" gasped the doctor.
I am sure you don't think there
Is ever any confusion here," said Mrs.
Laurence, "and the coffee Is certainly
better than the kind one gets In a
boarding house." Mrs. Laurence was
planning now for her system of psy
chopathic treatment on Mr. Ludwell.
If she succeeded with him, she might
take the work up as a enreer she
might become quite a specialist.
Meantime Doctor Laurence had been
making observations, and he had ob
served a pair of pretty blue eyes which
he had come to regard with something
akin to fatherly affection. He noticed
that at times those eyes turned a very
soft limpid blue and then dropped In
confusion. And then he would glance
across the room, only to find a pair
or supposedly melancholy, dark eyes
suddenly delve deep In book or news-
paper.
At times Mrs. Laurence was profuse
In her apologies to Mr. Ludwell, At
breakfast she would ask him how hi
slept. "I he you didn't hear the
twins," sh would say. "They were
up earlier than usual, and Richard fell
out of bed." Vou may have heard him
screaming In the night ; not hurt, mere
ly frightened." And you might have
discerned her confusion which was
deep-seated because It had been part
of her plan to have the Laurence
household breathe that calm and qu'ot
which would be the proper antidote for
the boarding house fear Image.
Then one evening you might, had
you been hidden somewhere hosldo
the side veranda of the Laurence
homestead, have heard the following
conversation. It was an evening when
Doctor and Mrs. Laurence were attend
Ing some board meeting or other and
Vera was at home tn look after things,
as usual, Mr. Ludwell, In spite of a
previous engagement, had remained
home also:
"Did you get any sleep last night
at allr asked Vera wearily.
"Some," commented Ludwell j "what
was the row In the nursery?"
"Well, Richard woke up at eleven
and decided It was a good time to bite
his sister Bell's big toe. He has .been
waiting for a chance to get even. That
woke the twins, and so It went on, and,
of course, some one Is always sure to
wake at Ave, and then they begin
again." , ,
'Hard on yon," said Ludwell aym
pathetically. ."Rut there's this about
It. When I do get a chance to sleep,
I sleep hard. I never saw such confU'
slon the boarding house was Eden
compared to this bedlam."
"Then why do you stay?" came a
rather shy question that seemed to
trail off weakly toward the end.
"You don't suppose I'd leave you
here, do you? Anil I'll tell you, Vera,
that what has set me on my feet agnln
after the exhaustion that followed get
ting out my last book In such a fright'
fully short time was because 1 felt thnt
I wanted to know you. After I knew
you and saw how hard you worked
here, I felt I had to pull myself to
gether so I could take rare of yon. t
wanted to be able to offer you a home
where you could get away from this
confusion."
Then there was a silence, during
which, If you had listened, you would
have heard nothing. Then from Rob
ert Ludlow: "How wonderful you are,
Vera." And from Vera: "You you
Are wonderful, too."
Robert and Vera left the Laurence
household In more confusion than they
found It. Confusion, of course, be
cause tho mainstay and prop In the
guise of Vera wns going. But then
there wns the satisfaction to Mrs. Lair
rence thnt she had succeeded amazing
ly well In this, her first effort In psy
chopathlcs.
NEVER FREE FROM TROUBLE
Border Between United States and
Mexico Has Always Been Law
less Strip of Country,
The border between the United
States and Mexico has been for n long
time one of the most troubled, romnn-
tlc and lawless In the western hetnl
sphere. Not only do the Mexican revo
lutionists periodically start something
by shooting or raiding across the line,
but this border also affords one of the
finest opportunities tn the world for
smuggling. A large part of the opium
which Is consumed hy addicts In this
country conies by wny of the Mexican
border, and an illicit business In arms
and ammunition goes the other way.
In the old days stealing horses In
Mexico, driving them across the river
and selling them In the United States
was a thriving Industry and It Is prob
ably still carried on to some extent. In
the old days It was known politely as
the "wet horse trade," because the
horses were often sold when they were
still wet.
The border country Is admirably en
dowed by nature for these lawless do
ings. It Is flat, near-desert country, too
dry for farming, but not too dry to sup
port heavy thickets of chaparral' and
mesqulte, which makes one of the dens
est and most Impenetrable covers In the
world. That part of the country which
lies within the big bend of the Rio
Grande Is an especially dense Jungle
of this kind. It swnrms with game.
The desert white tall doer, the peccary,
the wild turkey and the Mexican quail
are abundant. . This supply of wild
meat makes it easy for a Mexican out
law who knows where the water holes
are to hide out for long periods.
Superfluous,
"How do you do, sir!" suavely sa
luted the gent at the door, "I am of
fering, to the few persons In each com
munity who are of sufficient culture
to appreciate It, a valuable literary
work. This book "
"Book, liar?" Interrupted Gap John
son of Rumpus Ridge, Ark. "1 had a
hook forget now what 'twas about,
though for a good while, but about
six months ago the baby took and
gnawed It till It fell to pieces and
wasn't no good on enrth. No use to
buy anollier'n till he gets old enough
to understand what a book Is fur."
Kansas City Star.
His Principal Objection.
The house agent had sounded )ils
praises of the new property to the
prospective buyer and at the end he
said: "The death rate in this suburb
Is lower than in any other part of the
country."
I believe you," said the prospective
buyer. "I wouldn't be found dead
here myself." London Tit-Bits.
Horticultural
Points
TREES MAY NEED FERTILIZER
Recent Investigation Indicate That
nitrogen is the Element Most
Llktly to Be Needed.
Orchard trees, like other rrniut. iirt..n
are greatly helped hy iho Judicious use
of fertiliser. The grower, however, Is
orten at a losa to know whether or not
Ills trees need fertilizing nnd h Im i
an equal loss to know what t nn t
best advantage If any fertiliser la to
oe applied, l he appearance and the
previous behavior of the tr, u ti,
oesi iuiicx to the trees Heeds, accord
ing to V. It, Ourdner of the 1'nlverslty
of Missouri College of Agriculture. If
the hearing tree has been uiitklug a
strong, vigorous growth the new shoots
each year being eight to twelve liirhea
long; If It has been producing large
crops or good sized fruit, and If the
foliage lias been ahiiniliint ami r
healthy dark green color, there la little
neeu or rcriiuzcr. tin the other hand
It growth has been poor, crops poor
nnu roiiuge sparse and light colored
rcrmizcr is nrobu v needed.
Orchard fertilizer Investigation dur
ing recent years conducted In different
Darts of the L'nlied Sim... linli.nta
that nitrogen Is the element most likely
to be needed by fruit trees. Apparent
ly this can best be suniillod to fruit
trees In the form of some quickly
available commercial fertilizer, such
as 111 t ru to of sihIii nr kiiIhIiiiiu ,r inn.
man In. An application of live or six
pounds of the nitrate or four or five
pounds of the sulphate to the tree Is
generally enough for good results In
the case of average-sized 'i to 25-yeitr-old
trees. The application should be
made In early spring Just as growth
Is starting nnd the mnterlnl stiiuilil he
spread upon the hind so ns to rover
an area around die trees ut least equal
Each Individual Tree Should Be Care
fully and Continuously Watched ta
Detect Any 8vmDtoma of Trouble
Either of Insects or Disease The
Working of the Ground With Spad
ing Fork Is No Smsll Contract.
to the spread of the branches. Jinny
orchards which show signs of decll ra
ng would be greutly benefited by such
fertilizer treatment.
The point should be emphasized,
however, that application of fertilizer
will not take the place of orchard care
In other respects. It must be nccom
punled by good priming and sprnylng,
and If possible good cultivation, to
give best results.
SPRAYS NEEDED IN ORCHARD
In Neighborhoods Where Disease and
Insects Are Controlled Few
Are Required.
The number of sprayings required
tn your orchard Is governed by local
conditions. In neighborhoods where
all the farmers keep disease and In
sects under control, fewer applica
tions ore needed than where haphaz
ard spraying methods are practiced.
Each year's spraying makes the work
of the following yeur doubly effective.
Horticultural
NOTE'S
Empire is larger and more produc
tive than any other red raspberry.
It Is logical that the time to spray,
and the number of sprayings, should
be governed partly by the extent the
trees are Infected.
Don't allow grass and weeds to re
main under and around fruit trees
this winter, as they- serve as a hiding
place for ruts and mice.
I
Don't put off' spraying when the
proper time Is at hand If you are de
sirous of ridding your orchard of in
sect pests and disease at minimum
cost.
Building In California.
The California state highway com
mission will spend $800,000 a month,
or a total of nearly $10,000,000, for
good roada during this year.
Are Connecting Links.
Good roads are the connecting link
between the city business mnn, the
manufacturer, nnd the farmer, dairy
man, and producer of food.
Highways In Georgia.
Highways to cost $S,(XK),000 are now
under construction In Georgia,
I Ml. V.
: BOY
SCOUTS
&
(Conducted by Nation! Council of the
tUty Srouti of America.)
OBJECTS OF THE SCOUT PLAN
The purjMwe of the Hoy Scout move
ment la to develop character, Inltliitlva
and resourcefulness In hoys by cultivat
ing their Interest In activities of practl
cat everyday value through their Inter
est In the fascinating outdoor activities
of Ui acout program, under carefully,
selected leadership. The Ideals of the
movement are efficient citizenship,
service and character building.
The lloy Scouts of America form
part of the world brotherhood of
scouts several million strong.
"The Boy Smuts of America," the
name under which the movement In
Hie United States was Incorporated
on February 8, lliio, has as Its honor
ary president Woodrow Wilson, and as
honorary vice president, William II.
Taff. The active president Is Colin
II. Livingstone; national scout com
missioner, Daniel Carter Beard; chief
scout executive, James K. West; trea
urer, Georgw I), Trait
Associated with these In approval
and promotion of the movement art
the eminent citizens from all walks of
public life who are members of the
national council and of the local coun
cils In the cities and towns of the?
whole country, nnd a host of others
who earnestly cooperate In the work.
The ofllce Is at 2) Klflh avenue, New
York city.
SCOUT STUNTS IN THE OPEN.
Scout Carl Zolov. Troop 9, Portland,
Me., Giving Cooking Demonstrations.
THE EVIDENT 8C0UT DUTY.
"It Is your duty ns a true, and loyal
scout to be ever at the service of your
country, always doing everything you
possibly can, without being nsked, to
strengthen the hand of the govern
ment," says Lieut. Delvln W. Mayniird,
the "flying parson."
"You should not ultow shullnw-hriiln-
ed, weak-minded, thoughtless, unpatri
otic people to say ugly things uhnut
our government and our country with
out expressing your contempt.
"Let us not bo so unthouglitful our
selves as to say mean things about
our country, but lot us realize that our
country Is not some Inconceivable Idea,
some visionary object, or some Incom
prehensible stute of existence, but is
a simple nnd plain reality, easy to con
ceive, mane up or sucn Homes as you
represent, and never to bring disgrace
upon these homes so dear to all of us.
No scout can bo loyal to his family
without being loyal to his country, and
In turn, loyalty to country is loyalty
to home."
MEN TE8T THE SCOUTS' PACE.
Seventy business and professional
men of Springfield, 111., who nre In
training to be scoutmasters, took a
test of their ability to maintain the
marching pace of the Boy Scouts.
The men were required to tultc fifty ,
running puces and then fifty walking
paces for a mile, and by the time they
reached the end some of thorn were
glad. . '
Arriving at their destination, the
men found a big log fire built and
settled themselves down to listen to
an address giving Instruction in knife
and nxe . work, cooking and fire
building..
Weight of Herefords.
Hereford cattle are amnla In
Mature bulls weigh ur to 8,000 pounds,
averaging 2,100 to 2,b00 pounds, and
mature females average 1,000 to 1,700
pounds.
Better-Sires 8loaan.
As the better-sires slogun Indlente.
all males must be purebred and of
good quality.
Cause Unthrifty Pigs.
Intestinal worms cause unthrifty
piss; ,