ruin" 14
CROOK OOITNTY JOtTlNAI,
FROCKSFOR GIRLS
Heavy Linen or Cotton Used for
Spring and Summer.
Georgette and Net Dresses Sharing
Honors With Other Materials
for Party Wear.
The sketch shows a sensible dress
for a little girl of six years. It may
lie of wool fabric or of velveteen, em
broidered iu wool or chenille, or of
heavy linen or cotton material for
spring or summer. The dress buttons
In the back and a belt of black vel
vet ribbon Is slipped through open
ings arranged for the purpose, and
tied In u bow In the buck. The little
pouched pockets are finished at the
edge, as are, sleeves, collar and jacket
with a louj' buttonhole stitch done In
the floss used for the embroidered
motifs.
Yellow heavy linen is used by some
of the designers In developing smart
tnl'ored spring or summer dresses for
little girls. One frock shown Is of
burnt orange linen embroidered In
heavy black wool and finished with
a patent leather belt
The three-piece tub frock is featured
for girls of six to ten years. One of
these recently brought out has a plain
linen skirt laid In wide box plaits,
a blouse of white and colored dotted
handkerchief linen with a little square
cut detachable coat of the plain ma
terial This season velveteen and wool jer
sey cloth hold the center of the stage
In serviceable materials chosen' for
dresses for little girls, the staple serge
being compelled, to some extent, to
take a back seat. Angora and heavy
wool embroideries are popular trim
ming touches both on velveteen and
Jersey cloth frocks. This very sturdy
material is so effective and charming
when shown in the pastel shades that
frocks of it are quite good enough for
dressy occasions.
A particularly smart and populat
type of school dress this season com-
Simple Frock for Six-Year-Old.
bines a middy blouse of black vel
veteen with a plaited skirt of Scotch
plaid.
For party wear, georgette and net
dresses are sharing honors with those
made of fine cotton voile or of or
gandie in white or pastel shades. Self
fabric In contrasting color, used as
piping, is much used as a trimming
for the organdie frock.
Cottons for
New French and American Fabrics
Ready and Tremendous Vogue
Is Predicted.
Cottons have been designed by tex
tile experts for the coming season,
and the patterns are so chic, so novel,
and they make the humbler textiles
so much valuable through the medium
of their new beauty, that a tremendous
vogue Is predicted for them.
In the meantime the question arises,
Who will make them up? If they are
"new" the great French designers will
be Interested. But will such bouses
care to make up models that are less
costlv than the ones made of the
sumptuous silken textiles? It is be
lieved that new Purls designers will
take care of this those who are con
tent with smaller earnings than the
fees demanded and received by estab
lished houses like the Cullots, Worth,
Cherult, Faquln and a dozen others
whose names are known well by rich
American women.
In any case, whether Paris sends us
cotton frocks to copy or not, American
cotton dresses are admittedly lovely,
and it Is certain that we shall be safe
In buying generously of the fascinat
ing cottons that are to be imported,
and also the beautiful fabrics that our
own American cotton houses produce
patterns that are made here and
now.'
Summertime, with cotton fabrics In
many tints and weights, and trimmed
In all kinds of laces and handwork,
ought to offer charming alternatives
for girls who enjoy planning and ac
RICH CREATION FOR SUMMER
fcl ! 1
' Tl 1
ifr J
tit 'wfU'tm iitfi ttiii i
This is a charming afternoon frock
of peach georgette, embroidered with
crystal beads. Simplicity in design
and trimming do not detract from the
beauty of this wintome American
fashion.
NECKLINE BOWS AND RIBBONS
Fashion Hat Become Pronounced and
Adds to the Attractiveness of
Many Gowns.
Have you noticed how many smart
frocks and blouses have tiny ribbon
bows, of silver or velvet, at the back
of the neck? This Is new style, one
of those notions taken up now and
then by exclusive dressmakers, and
not so to speak put on the market
in ready-to-wear costume until the
fashion has become pronounced. A
new tunic blouse of rose and silver
ribbon binding around the neck and a
tiny bow of the ribbon Ms set at the
back, long streamers falling "to the
waist. An ecru crepe de chine frock
with platted frill around the square
neck opening and elbow sleeve, , has
gay little bows of narrow black velvet
j ribbon. And a dinner gown of black
chiffon over black and white satin, has
silver ribbon around the neck (with a
how at the back) and much silvm
hemstitching on the bodice.
Cire Satin Popular.
Clre satin is quite as popular In hats
as it is dresses. Because It has so
many qualities that will contribute to
ward its success we may be sure of
Its continued use In spring and sum
mer millinery. Its slight stiffness
gives it an advantage over ordinary
satin as a material from which to
make an entire hat. Then Its glazed
surface makes it successful as a dust
shedding material. It will be used In
dark color only, the preference being
given to brown, navy blue and black.
Dainty Frocks
tually making their own airy, dainty
summer frocks. It Is not sheer waste
to Invest In laces and other washable
adornments to make these dresses
lovely, when one remembers that each
time they come back from the
"blanchisseuse" they are as new.
BRIEF FASHION NOTES
Transparent foliage in brilliant col
oring Is a recent Parisian conceit in
millinery trimming.
Some bolero suits are being shown
and are suggested as being particu
larly smart and becoming for the
young, slender woman, for these are
made only in misses' sizes.
An effective and practical lingerie
set suggested for a trousseau Is of
orchid georgette, devoid of lace, but
trimmed pleasingly with tiny ruffles of
self-material and narrow ribbon In
orchid and yellow.
The ripple suit of French origin has
been copied by American manufactur
ers, but on decidedly modified lines, to
meet the approval of conservative
women who want smart lines, but not
radical or extreme lines.
Smart modes In dresses are in evi
dence on all sides, until it Is difficult
to pick out any one mode for word por
trayal, but frocks of tricotine are de
cidedly Interesting when developed
with plaited skirts and tailored sur
plice bodices that wrap about the
waist and finish with sash effect, the
entire bodice being .almost completely
covered with Japanese embroidery.
SKIRT LENGTH IS
TOPIC OF SEASOH
'aris Creator of Fashions Still
Adheres to One "Just Be-,
low the Knees."
STYLE WAR SHOWS N3 - LULL
American Designer! Favor Longer
Garment While French Faihion Dic
tators Insist Upon Exceetlvety
Abbreviated Type.
.There's a new war on! Hostilities
ire being waged between the inodcr
ttely short skirt advocated by Ameri
can designers and the excessively till
irovltiled frocks Insisted upon by the
Trench couturiers, writes a prominent
:reittor of fashions.
The short skirt reaching barely be
ow the knees made Its appearance In
rnrts Inst your and many stories came
loross to us concerning the display of
illken hosiery observed at the lending
French hotels where the fashionable
t'nrislennes gather for luncheon, tea
md evening parties. This fashion of
llsplaylng French calves with a frank
Jess that outfrnnked even the French
as not confined to bliurro extremists,
ut was adopted by the upper clusfes.
:he descendants of the old regime,
who still constitute the aristocracy of
France that dwells lu the nelgborhood
)f St. Germain.
When the races at Auteullle aud
Long Champs corroborated the el
lence that the short skirt was un es
tablished fact, American designers
Hesitated and waited to hear the death
knell of this fashion vibrate across
the Atlantic. Instead of dying young,
:t continued to grow in fnvor.
The short skirt on this side of the)
x-eun, which came Into prominence
levcral years ago, when ,a certain the
jtrlcal manager dressed his far famed
beauty chorus In the short-long skirts
reaching eight or ten Inches from the
door, had been carried to such vulgar
excess by any women lacking both
in artistic taste and good breeding,
that an attempt to feature the long
jraccful afternoon gown was made
with a large measure of success.
Last season I made my street and
afternoon gowns quite long. This year
( concede nothing to the French fash
Ion and continue to advocate the long
ar moderately long skirt. Few women
nave sufficiently well-shaped legs and
inkles to display them In this manner.
That Is the aesthetic argument against
the short skirt. Into the moral ques
tion I enter not. The American woman
Gown of Gray Charmeuse Satin Com
bined With Gray Chiffon.
of good taste Is capable of Judging
that for herself. You all know how
many actually bow-legged women the
short skirt has brought to notice. The
woman 'with such unfortunate physi
cal defects, should certainly avoid the
short Isklrt. The older woman who has
put on weight looks her worst In short
skirts. Youth should possess attractive,
slender ankles, yet many young girls
show a thickness In their ankles which
Is far from symmetrically lovely, and
very unattractive in a short skirt.
The well modeled physique of the
American woman Is similar to the
Greek Ideal. It shows a gradual In
crease In the fullness of the leg begin
ning nt the ankle and rounding into
the calf. The French woman possesses
a higher placed calf. Iler legs are more
like those of the professional dancer,
which shows the biceps muscle rising
more abruptly from the long slender
ness of the ankle. The thinness of
French legs makes the women of that
country more adapted to wear the ex
cessive short skirt than her American
sister.
For these various reasons I am not
making my gowns too short. My street
dresses and tailored aulta are eight
Inches from the floor and my after
noon gowns am this length aud longer,
depending upon the line of the drapery.
Some are even floor length, which
gives charming grace to the full-figured
womnn. Ioiyt draperies of black
chiirmeuse satin, meteor or velvet take
off pounds anil pound from the effect
of the stout figure, How I wish every
woman would roiillze this!
I 'mice frocks of net and other sheer
materials designed for debutantes and
the younger matron am about eight,
Inches from the floor, und they may
be even a trille shorter. The draped
brocades and velvet are Invariably
much mora graceful when given n long
sweep of Hue that Hceents the height,
t'repe chiffon ulso lends Itself more
effectively to long, graceful drapery.
Itefore adopting the short skirt a
woman should remember that what
may appear chic In Paris, a city of
extremists lu style, may look ridicu
lous in a small American city. Even
Charming Evening Gown of Brocade
In Geranium Pink and Gold.
things that are moderately striking
where the eye grows accustomed to
clothes that are startling and "near
freakish," may look quite absurd on
the main street of a less cosmopolitan
city than New York.
A variety of gowns show the grace
if the moderately long skirt. They are
offered as an argument against the
adoption of the exaggerated skirt by
the woman who values the effect of
the "tout ensemble" as opposed to
the unthinking woman who wants to
he In style nt any price, even unto
sacrificing- the grace of. her figure.
Many figures appear quite charming
in the longer lines which would be
displayed to a disadvantage In an ex
cessively short skirt.
The gown of black crepe meteor
uives slenderness mid grace to the full
figured woman and Is nlso becoming
to the slender build. The skirt Is drap
ed in beautiful lines that cross In front
and produce the effect of a bias tunic
In the back. The kimono blouse is cut
with short sleeves and the opening In
the front Is filled In with n surplice
of silver lace and flesh chiffon thnt
shows a dellgthful smack of color in
"binds" or folds of red, violet and
hyacinth blue taffeta. The girdle of
lilnck charmeuse displays n new sash
treatment that appears to be a con
tinuation of the lines of the skirt drap
ery. These sash ends emerge from the
side front and are carried toward the
back, where they are thrown one over
the other below the waistline.
Worn Willi a broad black velvet hat
trimmed with graceful sweeps of black
paradise, tills gown Is an expression
of grace and gives to almost nny wom
an a distinguished silhouette. Would
you choose a skirt a few Inches below
your krie.es In preference to the long
lines of this model?
The evening gown of geranium and
silver brocade casts another vote for
the long skirt. This gown Is apparently
unsupported over the shoulders ex
cept by the unusual straps, apparently
oblivious of their object In life. In
reality two straps of flesh-colored sat
In follow the lines of the brocade
straps and are attached to the back
of the gown on either side of the cen
ter back.
A gown of gray chnrmeuse sntln
combined with gray chiffon falls In
Greek-like lines which In the perfec
tion of their drapery cry out against
the short skirt. The front of this gown
is interesting and . shows a closing
flattering to the figure. It runs cross
wise and fastens down one side where
It continues Into the bias of the skirt
drapery. The one-piece effect of this
gown Is broken by the belt that de
fines the waistline on one side and
disappears under the bound button
hole so as to leave the side dosing In
one continuous line. Gray chiffon folds
are an Interesting trimming on this
gown. ' ,
In another evening gown that argues
for the long skirt Jade-green chiffon
pleads eloquently and Is ably aided by
Its unusual trimming, pendants of
small jade-green beads strung on a
thread.
DANIEL WADE
AS CUPID
fly LATIM-1 J, WILSON
lift mo. by ItiX'iurr Nwoi'ir Hrniiio.it.)
The great Interior court of Electric
Sqiinro resoiiiMii ii with the linhuriiioul
ous music of i.v pmvrller. When their
"click-clicking ' ceased to pour from
the hundred of window at noon and
at live o'clorK i ho numerous elouifur
filled to ow-i (lowing and crowd of
girl and n n armed out of llm
massive dn..i of the skyscraper.
Streams of Immunity they Mowed down
from I he lot ty height to swell the al
ready Hooded current of downtown
Uroiidway.
It was barely one hour before the
opening of the noontide, flood gate.
The anteroom oltlco boy, that Individ
ual In uniform and billion who de
mands your mime and your buslnc,
had grown rcatlcs. During a lull In
business he poked hi head Into the
room of No. 22, where Mis Miiyhclte
Kinney performed the duties of
stenographer. In year she wn less
than twenty-two, uhU the ntilce boy,
heralded merely as Pan, though his
mi hid was Daniel Howard Wedo,
tipped the scale of years at fifteen,
"IS-i-M-tr he significantly sounded
In a kind of tongue whistle, "line
Ma pes nuked you to lunch wltb him,
today?"
"Uet out of here and mind your own
buNluessl" commanded tin) girl threat
eningly. "I'll bet you're going to lunch with
him. (!eel Wont you look fine when
you're Mr. Mapest You'll get along
without a looking gin every time
Mn pes takes off his lid. Why, May I
You on n curl your hair aud paint your
lips In the reflection from hi tlny top
whenever hi liafs off I Ouch!" he
screamed In whisper when the han
dle of her paper knife nipped his
knuckles. Steps were heard approach
ing the door from the adjoining nlilce,
and the boy quickly ducked buck Into
hi own room.
The door opened and a lull, slende
young man, somewhat older than May
belle, rnme In with a handful of let
ters, lie wa not at all bnd looking,
but the top of his head, the very top
was shockingly bare.
"Hero, Miss Miiybelle, you ran look
after some of these " Mr. Mapes
wa about to say more when lie sud
denly discovered that ho had left some
thing Important In hi olllce. Just ns
the door closed behind him, Mnybelle
wa summoned to another office by
the little call button Indicator at her
desk. A she started out of the door
Daniel poked his head Into the room.
Ta-ta ! You're going to lunch with
Mapes. I'll bet I" he whispered loudly.
The girl reddened and scowled at him.
When she came back into her room,
about half an hour later, she brought
more letter and found upon her desk
the one Mapes bnd gone buck to bring.
There was also a little note from him,
asking her to lunch today. Ho said
ho would come by for her at noon.
Mnybelle could think of no plaus
ible excuse for not going to lunch
with her fellow employee of the office
stuff. She hud not thought enough of
him personally even to dislike lilin un
til young Wndo began to tc-nse her.
Then she could seo nothing but Mr.
Mape's depleted summit every time
she sat opposite him at the crowded
table of the restaurant. His fiery
gaze of nffectlon was futile In Its
attempt to melt the Icy unconcern
of her manner.
Ho wns hopelessly In love, though
she had not Imagined It until Wade
pointed the direction of the wind.
Now Mapes' attention Irritated her
and she wanted some polite excuse for
refusing him. She walked over and
looked out nt the mane of windows In
the wall opposite.
In her dust-dry garden of business
routine the girl longed for n breath
of youth and companionship, but
Mapes fell short of the mark. She
decided that whatever happened she
wouldn't go another time with him to
a plcturo theater or a restaurant
Absently her gaze fell upon a win
dow directly opposite her own, but
on .the floor below. A young man
stood In plain view, looking straight
at her and smiling. In his eyes at
that moment she thought she read
the romance of moonlight, springtime,
youth and adventure. There was no
mistake. He was looking all of those
things right at her.
Ills hair was roached back In the
most genteel style.. Ills brows were
arched exquisitely above his dark
eyes, which now sparkled with merri
ment. He was surely smiling at her,
and she looked away abashed at first ;
then back at him with an, answering
but Inquisitive expression. She saw
him reach across his desk for a sheet
of letter paper, upon which he printed
In large, clear letters with a pen:
"EAST DOOH AT NOON."
She had never seen him before, but
from that moment he was a new and
Intense interest In the routine of Elec
tric Square. Mnybelle decided that
she might as well trust her noon hour
with him as with Mapes, and he was
so much better looking than the lat
ter. So she nodded "Yes," and ad
justed her pearl-bead necklace while
she smiled and blushed.
Just then the door opened and Mr,
Mapes came In.
"Miss Maybelle you read my note,
1 suppose. Well, here I've come for
you. Will you let me have the pleas
ure?" Be seemed to take It for grant
ed that ah would go out with him.
"Thank you very much, Mr. Mapes.
I have other plan for my noon hour
today, and cannot accept your Invi
tation," was her buliiesllke refusal.
He wnt plainly 'surprised, and with
the Instinct of jealous natures at once
suspected the ratine.
"I'm sorry, Miss Mnybelle," wn all
he sitld.
Following her few nilniile Inter
he iiiw her hurrying toward tho east
ern doorway of the great building,
where she met aud timidly shook
linniU with a young man. Mnpe lost
truce of them In the swift current
of (he crowd. i
"I'on't you think we ought to be
Introduced?" Mnybelle naked her en
cort, "Why, I hadn't thought of that. We
already know each other' niiiue. I'm
Itonieo o you're Juliet, don't you
know?" ha liiughed.
Win did not exactly understand, but
perlled In her own way.
"I mean," she mild seriously, "!t
Isn't right for mo to be walking with
you when we don't even know each
other."
"Do you menu to ny you don't
know who I am?"- lie laughed. "I
found out your nnme a week ago, Ml
Muybelle Kinney. Well, anmway, I'm
Tom Wendell, alia Itomoo, Tuid right
here'i whore 1 feed every day) at
12:15. Will you step In?"
It was one of those restaurants
where an orchestra played dreamy
melodic and harmonies that auggesb.
ed moonlight, springtime, love and ro
mance. In the eye of " the young
man she saw these thing reflected.
So till was the beginning. Mane
never had another chnnre nt the noon
hour. The girl and Tom were always
together then, and often they met af
ter closing hours and on holidays.
One day Tom dropped in at her
office, where he wn clandestinely ad
mitted by Daniel.
"llow do you lll.e this one?" asked
Tom when . they were Mlone. He
slipped a delicate little band of orna
mented platinum set ahlnxe with a
pure blue-white diamond upon her
finger. It flushed III a tlmmand hue
the brilliant glory of the sunlight
slanting through the magic window
where be had first seen her.
The door behind them stealthily
opened and the round face of Punlel
beamed at tho lover.
"Sayl" comically whispered young
Wndo a they wheeled around nt him.
"Here's where you kid ride on the
bund wagon I SI told me to take up
a bunch from the office and bring
them down for a lark next, Saturday
night. You know SI!" ho addressed
Mnybelle understniidlngly.
"Certainly; did she tell you to In
vite me?" she asked.
"Yes, she did I She snld to tell you
to bring along your sign man."
"My what?" cried tho girl.
"This guy here that answered my
ad," commented Pntilel complacently.
"The ad, I mean, that I put on n card
In your window when you were out."
"What does the cray kid mean?"
Maybelle asked Tom. Tho young man,
seemed to see a new light breaking in
the eastern port of hi memory.
"Why, he mean. I guess, the print
ed sign In your window which first at
tracted my attention there and made
mo dream of you nights."
"Explain P demanded the girl.
"Head It yourself," hlatted Punlel,
taking from bis pocket a worn but
neatly-folded Bheet of paper. May
belle was astounded to see printed In
large letters:
"HELLO. ROM KOI WHEN' AND
WHEUE CAN WE MEET?"
"Of course I knew you didn't do It."
Tom lied to the girl. "Hut I'm glad
somebody started things our way."
GEORGE ELIOT ON PEDESTAL
Great Novelist May Be Said to Have
Been Victim of Her "Fool
Friend."
The gny world, which forgets every
thing, has forgotten what a solemn,
what a portentous thing wns the con
temporary fame of George Eliot, Ed
mund Gosse writes In the London Mer
cury. It was supported by the se
rious thlnkers-of the day, by the peo
ple who despised more novels but re
garded her writings as contributions
to philosophical literature.
On the solitary occasion when I
sat In company with Herbert Spencer
on the committee of the London li
brary he expressed a strong objection,
to the purchase of fiction and wished'
thnt for the London library no noveli
should be bought, "except, of course,
those of George Eliot."
When she lived critics compared
her with Goethe, but to the disadvan
tage of the sage of Welmnr. I'eople
who started controversies about "evo
lutionism" a favorite Vletorlnn pas
timebowed low at the mention of
her nume, and her own sound good
sense alone prevented her from being
mado the object of a sort of priggish
Idolatry. A bigwig of that day re
marked that "In problems 'of life and
thought which baffled Shakespeare her
touch was unfailing." For Lord Acton
at her death "the sun had gone out,"
nnu mat pxceeumgiy uogmnuc Historian
observed,' ex-cathedra, thnt no writer
had "ever lived who had anything like
her power of manifold but disinterest
ed and Impartial sympathy. If Soph
ocles or Cervantes had lived In the
light of our culture, if Dante had pros
pered like Manzonl, George Kllot
might have had a rival."
It Is very dangerous to write like
that. A reaction Is sure to follow,:
and In the case of the novelist so mod-,
est and strenuous herself but so ridic
ulously overpraised by her friends It
came with remarkable celerity. '