c
the redmond
SMITH
ROCK | BIRTHPLACE OF NORTH AMERICAN SPORT CLIMBING
SMITH ROCK
VERTICAL
PIONEERS
BY CRISTINA PETERSON
For The Spokesman
Rock climbers today follow
established routes up a wall.
In sport climbing, bolts pro-
vide protection from long falls
so climbers clip into them. A
route typically ends at a set
of anchors that the climber
also clips into and then lowers
back to the ground. Guide-
books and websites provide
maps and descriptions of
routes so climbers can choose
which ones to try.
But how are these routes
found? And who equips them
with the bolts and anchors?
Route developers put in the
hard work, often spending
several days to establish a new
route and their own money to
purchase the gear.
They are the pioneers of the
vertical world, and the rest of
the climbing community en-
joys the result of their labor.
Alan Watts, local legend
and author of “Rock Climb-
ing Smith Rock State Park,”
started climbing at Smith
Rock in 1975.
There weren’t many routes
back then, and he quickly
climbed all of them. He
wanted better and harder
routes, so he started develop-
ing more himself.
Just a few local climbers
comprised the climbing com-
munity then, and they all
knew one another well and
climbed together often.
New routes were established
by giving feedback and com-
ing to a consensus about local
ethics and best practices. This
small group of extremely ded-
icated and talented climbers
created the first, and some of
the hardest, sport climbs in
North America. Their legacy
and reputation are known in-
ternationally.
In the decades since, Smith
Rock and climbing have only
grown in popularity. Climbers
from around the world come
to Smith to try these iconic
routes. The increase in climb-
ers brings unique challenges,
including overcrowding at the
state park. Some local climb-
ers tire of the busy scene in
main areas of the park. This
led to a resurgence of route
development at Smith Rock
and in the broader Central
Oregon area.
Alan Collins’ father climbed
at Smith in the 1990s and de-
veloped new routes. Inspired
by his dad, Collins knew he
wanted to develop his own
routes, too. He started to ex-
plore different areas of Smith
Rock where there were few
SOLUTION
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Worship Directory
Adventist
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Spokesman
your community marketplace
or no routes and fewer peo-
ple. He discovered that a lot
more rock in the area could be
climbed.
“I went out with my dad to
learn how to start the over-
whelming process of develop-
ing a new route,” Collins said.
A lot goes into establish-
ing a new rock climb. Aimee
Roseborrough, another long-
time climber in the Central
Oregon scene, said she spends
a lot of time staring at rock
walls. She looks for interesting
Aimee Roseborrough/Submitted photo
features that look climbable,
then fixes a rope from the top Dave McRae puts in the work for developing a route at Smith Rock.
and rappels down to see if the
line could be climbed. That’s
she said. “It requires a lot of
velopment here,” he said. And
just the beginning though.
time and effort to develop
he’s “proud of how influential
If the route looks good, de-
quality routes and we’re not
climbing in Central Oregon
velopers then clean off any
just putting up bolts unneces-
has been in America and to
loose rock and decide where
sarily.”
the rest of the world.”
Reporter: 541-383-0349,
to put bolts and anchors.
Watts feels he’s been “lucky
djasper@bendbulletin.com
Roseborrough learned from a to play a role in the route de-
mentor and said “the relation-
ship is incredibly invaluable
because there are a lot of intri-
SOLUTION
SOLUTION
cacies to route development.
Crossword on
on A2
A2
Crossword
The decisions you have to
make about where the bolts go
s N A
to make a safe and enjoyable
p E S
route are quite involved.”
Roseborrough has been
A M O
climbing for over 20 years
D O R JL
and never thought she’d enjoy
route development because
it’s so much work. But she
discovered, “the work is ex-
tremely rewarding. It’s a nice
way to give back to the climb-
ing community.” Collins and
Roseborrough both said the
community is what they loved
about climbing in Central Or-
egon.
Collins said, “The people
[ÏÏ 0 S A
keep me stoked.”
And Roseborrough feels
i B I S
“there are really enthusiastic
b
O R K
climbers and developers here,”
s E E S
she said. “You could even say
some of us developers are irra-
tionally exuberant, but some-
OBITUARY
OBITUARY
times that’s what it takes to get
hard work done.”
Roseborrough is well aware
rock is a limited resource.
“We put a lot of thought
into the routes we develop,
and we care about the envi-
ronment in Central Oregon,”
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THE SPOKESMAN • TUESDAY, JULY 19, 2022 A5
Elizabeth (Liz) Larrie (Reed)
Scanlon
to place an ad call
541 385*5809
'
100 NOTICES
660 SERVICES
107 Personals
664 Services
Live- In Person Wanted, with auto
for light housekeeping and er­
rands, have large room with pri­
vate bath and walk in closet. Will
consider person with child. Call:
(541)548-6642
CLASSIFIEDS
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sporting goods.
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650 HELP WANTED
Advanced Commercial
Cleaning
We clean offices, schools, restau­
rants, retail stores, buildings,
bathrooms, floors, construction
sites, VRBO check in and outs
We have available cleaners in
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651 Help Wanted
Bend, Oregon (541)749-8974
Oregon I TECH®
700 LIVESTOCK/
ANIMALS/PETS
The Office of the Provost at
Oregon Tech is accepting ap­
plications from qualified candi­
dates to fulfill the role of
Director of Applied Computing.
This position provides an excit­
ing opportunity for an inaugu­
ral director to establish and
grow a new center of excel­
lence at Oregon Tech, leverag­
ing our computing
infrastructure and intellectual
expertise to address some of
the relevant problems facing
society by the use of applied
computing. The Director is re­
sponsible for the direction and
health of the new center and
inspiring excellence and
growth between Oregon Tech
and the computing community.
The director plans and imple­
ments program directions for
research, public outreach and
education; identifies, leads and
collaborates with a group of
center faculty: administers fa­
cilities; leads fundraising activi­
ties; and develops and
manages the center’s budget.
The position reports directly to
the Provost and will work col-
laboratively with the Univer­
sity’s Academic Deans.
For more Information and Spe­
cial Instructions to Applicant:
Review of applications will
begin on August 1, 2022. Ap­
plications will continue to be
accepted after the review date
until a sufficient applicant pool
has been achieved or the posi­
tion is filled. Therefore, at the
discretion of the University,
materials received after the ini­
tial review date may not re­
ceive full consideration.
To apply, visit:
https://jobs.oit.edu/postings/51
74
Then, upload the following ele­
ments in a single electronic
document to your application
1. A cover letter indicating how
your qualifications and experi­
ence have prepared you for
this position
2. A resume or CV
3. Philosophy on diversity
statement
Klamath Falls, OR (541)885-
1028
728 Dogs, Cats, Pets
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excellent temperament, parents
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leave a message, 541-786-3495
(cell)
100 NOTICES
102 Public Notices
IN THE CIRCUIT COURT OF
THE STATE OF OREGON
FOR THE COUNTY OF DE­
SCHUTES
Probate Department Case No.
22PB05972
NOTICE TO INTERESTED
PERSONS
In the Matter of the ESTATE OF
MARTHA SUE FLYNN, De­
ceased. NOTICE IS HEREBY
GIVEN that KELLY P. RAEL has
been appointed as Personal Rep­
resentative. All persons having
claims against the estate are re­
quired to present them to the un­
dersigned attorney for Personal
Representative at 1865 NW 169th
Place, Suite 202, Beaverton, OR
97006 within four months after
the date of first publication of this
notice, or the claims may be
barred. All persons whose rights
may be affected by the proceed­
ings may obtain additional infor­
mation from the records of the
court, Personal Representative or
the attorney for Personal Repre­
sentative. Kelly P. Rael
Personal Representative
Meredith L. Williamson (085922)
Attorney for Personal Represen­
tative NW Estate Law, LLC 1865
NW 169th Place, Suite 202
Beaverton, OR 97006
DATED and first published: July
12 , 2022 .
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of classified advertising.
Real estate to automotive,
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Call 541-385-5809
September 14, 1933 - June 27, 2022
Elizabeth was born in Haines to lva E. (Loftus)
Reed and John L. Reed. Liz grew up in various
logging camps on Yamsey Mountain, Grand
Round Island, Forest Grove Dayton and near
Deep Creek. She also attended school in
Chiloquin near Ft. Klamath. The family later
lived in Prineville where Liz graduated from
CCHS in 1951.
Liz is survived by two children, Steve (Lisa)
Scanlon of Redmond and Jamie (Steve)
Scanlon-kanski of Everett, Wa. She is also
survived by grandchildren Joshua(Dara)
Capehart, Randa(Lance)Bechtel, Travis(Angie)
Maze, Andy Kanski, and Tony(Cassie)Kanski,
Liz has 14 great-grandchildren. Her siblings all
predeceased her: Jim and Ray, Lovetha, Ruth,
Irene, and Edith.
Liz lived an exciting and rewarding life as an
Air Force wife, through Boeing assignments,
and other positions held by husband James
B. Scanlon who passed in 1997. She lived in
Japan, Malta, Saudia Arabia, Iran, South Korea,
California, Oregon, and Washington. She
volunteered through the years for Soroptimist
of Redmond, the church, Humane Society
of Redmond, Pet Evacuation Team, SVDP
Redmond, and Jericho Table.
Donations in her memory may be made to the
Pet Evacuation Team - P.O. Box 5171, Bend,
Or. 97708; or Jericho Table- 205 NW 4th,
Redmond, Oregon 97756. No service will be
held.
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