THE WHIT
T
he Wheel Apizza Pub aims to fling a new kind
of pie our way with their “New Haven” pizzas,
and with crunchy, sourdough crust and an on-
site brewery, this new joint is a little slice of
heaven.
Owner Steve Mertz (you know him from Tacovore
and Laughing Planet before that) spent his formative high
school years in New Haven, Connecticut, frequenting iconic
pizza spots like Peppy’s, and NYC’s Lombardi’s.
“New Haven pizza has its own style,” Mertz says, “with
a longer ferment on the dough, and it’s not shy about the
tomato sauce.”
The Wheel’s self-identified “pizziolo” is Paul Adkins,
who’s in the kitchen every morning, prepping the restau-
rant’s distinctive sourdough crusts and fresh toppings.
The Wheel Apizza is ‘New Haven’ style
BY RACHAEL CARNES
Made with wheat from Junction City’s own Cam-
as Country Mill, the light, tangy dough is special — and
cooked hotter than most, creating a tasty texture and flavor.
“The sourdough crust has more character,” Mertz says.
“It’s more rustic.”
And delicious.
I sampled the pepperoni pizza, generously dolloped with
fresh mozzarella cheese and dotted with moist, succulent
bite-sized pepperonis. Rich and multidimensional, this fa-
vor combo packs the yin/yang balance of savory and sweet.
I could eat it for days.
The potato pesto pie features kale, leeks, rosemary and
a house-made ricotta, melding together in a come-to-mama
alchemy. Add a farm fresh egg baked on top for two bucks.
My favorite pie — so far — is the portobello and pear.
Rich, gooey “oregonzola” cheese pairs with mushroom,
sweet pear, spicy arugula, all brought together with a re-
freshing hit of balsamic reduction. It’s like eating summer.
And on a crust that’s thin and light, yet satisfying, this really
would make a marvelous meal as the temperatures climb.
The Wheel offers mix and match “dream pies” of your
choosing, and with seasonal beers brewed onsite and a full
bar, it should leave everyone in your party satisfied. The
location’s delightful: a converted warehouse, with careful
attention to design making the restaurant feel light, bright
and friendly. On any given night, you’ll find families and
friends enjoying themselves as they watch the trains roll by.
The Wheel Apizza Pub is open 11 am to 10 pm every day at 390 Lincoln
Street; 541-735-3860, thewheelapizzapub.com.
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CHOW SUMMER 2018
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