WINE
B Y L A N C E S PA R K S
ROSIES
Summertime heat is perfect for sipping ice-cold rosés
n the 17th floor of Eugene’s creakiest high-rise,
behind the pebbled-glass door marked “Wine In-
vestigations,” my pal and partner, Mole, set out a
display of polished glasses and opened bottles of
pink-ish wines.
If it’s summer — it is — and we’re gonna get hot —
and we surely have been — we’re gonna want some cool
wines. Time, then, for our annual rosie column.
No easy task, this. When we launched this tradition a
decade or so ago, there were fewer than a dozen good rosés
on market shelves. The rest were mostly syrupy-sweet
pinks — aka “blushes” — very popular “white” zinfandels,
often bought by the gallon.
Now, rosés have surged in consumer affections; even
“blushes” have improved (mostly). A good wine shop
might offer over 50 rosies, some sparkling, some not. We
all benefit, but choosing among them can be onerous. For
this column, Mole selected just some of our faves: “S’all I
could do, Sleut’” — he calls me Sleuth, an honor coming
from the master of stealth. We went to work.
Before we list our choices, we have to note that there
are two kinds of rosé. First, the “saignée,” French term
for “bleeds,” wines drawn off first-run juice of “big” reds
whose flavors winemakers want to concentrate; saignée
rosés can be very good, but “intentional” rosés tend to be
better.
O
Second, the standards for rosés are still set in
the south of France, in Provence, where rosés
garner deep respect. Top-shelf rosés come from
Chateau d’Esclans; their best, called Garrus,
can fetch $100 a bottle; rich folk, they brag, load
cases of Garrus onto their yachts and drink it
year-round. OK. They also sell loads of d’Esclans
Whispering Angel ($30), a blend of grenache
and rolle (aka Vermentino).
Almost all fine rosés from Provence tend to
be very pale in color (pressed juice is given
little time in contact with grape skins, hence
little color). No yacht? Try Pere Anselme
2016 Cotes de Provence ($14.50), or Mi-
radou 2016 Cotes de Provence ($12.50),
both very pale, lovely rosé, red berry fla-
vors, zippy acidity. Like all good rosés,
these are versatile, ready for a wide va-
riety of foods cooked outdoors, on grills
and such.
Local winemakers have enjoyed
success with rosés made from our pinot
grapes, gris and noir. Among the best,
Territorial 2016 Rosé of Pinot Gris
($15) offers pale color and near-perfect
balance of fruit flavors and food-friend-
ly acid. Mark Nicholl’s William Rose 2016 Prohibi-
tion Rose is made from 85 percent pinot gris with 15
percent pinot noir and is terrific — red fruit flavors,
good acidity, spicy, excellent with food.
Many Oregon brands seem to be experimenting
with rosés of pinot noir — carving, as Mole says, “a
piece of da rosie pie” — and are discovering that, like
other pinot noirs, rosés made from those grapes can
develop greater depth of flavor and character over
time (a year or so) in the bottle. For example, King
Estate just produced 2016 Estate Rosé of Pinot
Noir (NA) their first rosé from estate (Mountain
Blocks) grapes; it could be called a light red, it
has so much color, and, like many young pinot
noirs, it delivers deep flavors of cherries and
raspberries, but is still rather awkward. We
predict that in a year it’ll be dynamic and del-
ish. Meanwhile, their KE 2016 Acrobat Rosé
of Pinot Noir ($15), a saignée, is brightly
charming.
“D’ere’s lots moah, Sleut’,” Mole pleads.
“Understood, pal,” I respond, “but we’re
outta time and space. Got just enough to wish
readers a super summer.”
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