Joy in the
Whiteaker
Brails will bring its 'best hangover' breakfasts
to new spot on 5th Avenue By Rick Levin
JOY KNUDTSON
PHOTO BY TODD COOPER
J
oy Knudtson is a force of nature.
As owner and operator of Brails
Restaurant in south Eugene, Sang Joo (aka
Joy) Knudtson provides a big measure of
the joint’s appeal. On any given morning
you can find her zipping around the linoleum floor of this
old-fashioned American diner with the antic patterns of a
human hurricane — part field marshal, part peppy maestro,
all cult of personality. Her demeanor is flashy, welcoming
and entertainingly out-loud, like a low-impact carnival
barker, and the perpetual activity to which she subjects
her environment belies a sly watchfulness that comes from
running a busy café for the past 18 years.
“Honey, I’ll be right with you,” Knudtson tells me as
she floats out the swinging front door, only to appear five
minutes later from the opposite direction at the back of the
restaurant. I wonder if she’s finally split herself in two.
Such doubling seems almost feasible for an overflowing
personality and, indeed, it might serve Knudtson well these
days: She’ll soon be opening a second Brails on 5th Avenue
on the outskirts of the Whiteaker neighborhood at the spot
of the former Keystone Café, which recently closed its
doors after 40 years in business.
As with Knudtson herself, Brails is something of an
institution in Eugene. A classic American-style greasy
spoon in the Edward Hopper mold, the place has taken the
prize for “best hangover breakfast” in EW’s Best of Eugene
reader’s poll 12 years running. During the breakfast rush,
waiters scurry heaping plates of eggs, bacon and perfectly
crisped hashbrowns to patrons ranging from college kids,
old-timers and members of Eugene’s tattooed glitterati.
Sitting down over coffee, Knudtson fills me in on the
new enterprise. She says that she really had no interest
in opening a second restaurant, but then her daughter
graduated high school and she had an empty nest. “I
thought, ‘I gotta be busier.’” The old Keystone location
went on the market, and she got a wild hair.
“I wasn’t really planning to do anything, but I got
interested,” she says, smiling. “I think this was meant to be.”
The interior of Brails on 5th will be similar to the
original, Knudtson says, but the new place will feature
outdoor seating as well. Fans of Brails can rest assured
that the menu will be the same, though she says she’s
introducing buckwheat pancakes to the mix, as well as
veggie biscuits and gravy. The addition of espresso and
cinnamon rolls will give the place the feel of a café.
“I’m pretty excited about it and I want to make people
happy over there, for the Whiteaker people,” she says. “I’m
going to try my best to make it cozy. You can hang out over
there, drink coffee and whatever it is.”
The city permitting process delayed the planned
opening in mid-September. I ask Knudtson about the new
opening date. She contemplates the ceiling for a moment.
“I’m shooting for, let’s say, Oct. 1,” she says suddenly,
gazing at me with a bit of a mad-scientist gleam. I get the
distinct feeling I’ve just been made privy to breaking news.
Then inspiration truly seems to strike. “Opening day,
I’m going to serve biscuits and gravy, free!” she says,
setting both hands on the table. “Cinnamon rolls, free!”
I scramble to get it all down. We both laugh a bit. “I
feed people pretty good,” Knudtson says, winking at me.
“That’s my quality. I’m not stingy — let’s say that. I don’t
have a whole bunch of money, but I’m not cheap.”
Brails in south Eugene is open weekdays, 7 am to 2 pm, weekends 7 am to 3 pm
at 1689 Willamette Street. The new Brails (tentatively opening Oct. 1) is located
at the former Keystone Café, 395 W. 5th Avenue.
NOW SERVING BREAKFAST
K
E
E
W
A
S
Y
7 DA
Specialty Gourmet
Cook’s Tools, Knives
Tablecloths, Plate Settings and More!
BEST OF EUGENE WINNER
AS SEEN ON
Celebrating 20 Years in Eugene
VEGETARIAN
1290 W. 7th Ave. (& Polk) Eugene
541-505-9175 • cornbreadcafe.com
Mon - Fri: 8am - 9pm
Sat: 9am - 9pm • Sun: 9am - 3pm
VEGAN
• FOOD •
2011 - 2015
Try South Eugene’s
Newest Restaurant
EUGENE’S WORLD-CLASS
NEIGHBORHOOD GROCERY STORE
Serving lunch and dinner Tues-Fri
Serving breakfast and brunch Sat-Sun
LOCAL • NATURAL • ORGANIC
GOURMET • SPECIALTY • VARIETY
HOUSE SPECIALTIES
INCLUDE
fi sh and chips,
sweet potato enchiladas,
chicken and waffl es,
fresh baked donuts,
bread pudding, &
sweet potato dessert fries
(541) 636-3838 • sundialcafeeugene.com
M: closed Tu-Th: 11am-9pm F: 11am-10pm Sat & Sun: 8am-3pm
EUGENEWEEKLY.COM/CHOW
2807 Oak Street
Eugene, OR
541-338-4339
cookspots.com
THE CAPELLA MARKET DELI
Made to Order
•Sandwiches
•Coffee & Tea
•Organic Juices
& Smoothies
From the Kitchen
•Soups
•Appetizers
•Entrees
•Salads
•Side Dishes
Sliced to Order •Hot Breakfast*
•Deli Meats
*Toast with Cheese & Tomato,
Scrambled Eggs & Cheese,
•Bulk Cheeses French Toast, and Homefries
For Events Large & Small
•Box Lunches
•Party Trays (Cheeses,
Meats, Veggies, Olives)
•Appetizers, Entrees,
Salads, Side Dishes,
and Soups
LET US HELP YOU WITH YOUR NEXT EVENT!
CALL 541-345-1014 AND ASK FOR THE DELI
25th & WILLAMETTE • EUGENE • 541-345-1014
OPEN DAILY 8AM - 10PM • www.capellamarket.com
CHOW FALL 2016
5