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MR. RIGHT
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KRISHA
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THE WITCH
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APRIL 8 TO APRIL 14
HELLO, MY NAME IS DORIS (R)
Fri: 1:30, 3:45, 6:00, 8:15
Sat & Sun: 11:15 AM, 1:30, 3:45, 6:00, 8:15
Mon - Thu: 1:30, 3:45, 6:00, 8:15
MY GOLDEN DAYS (Trois souvenirs de ma jeunesse) (R)
Fri:
Sat & Sun:
Mon - Wed:
Thu:
FOOD CRITIC JONATHAN
GOLD HUNTS UNSUNG
TREASURES
THE MIDAS TOUCH
City of Gold examines the cultural bounds and implications
of L.A. food critic Jonathan Gold
J
onathan Gold is the first and only food critic to win a Pulitzer Prize. Let that
marinate for a moment.
Then disabuse yourself of any notions of what a food critic of that caliber
might be like — perhaps an uptight gourmand enamored with his own palette or
some self-important foodie.
Gold is none of that, so it’s no wonder filmmaker Laura Gabbert chose to wrap a film
around the writer and the myriad flavors of his beloved hometown Los Angeles.
He has a penchant for suspenders, wrinkled shirts and his green pickup.
“I’m an L.A. guy — I drive,” Gold says early in the film. “I am my truck; my truck is
me.”
The documentary follows Gold, driving his truck around Los Angeles, from Alhambra
to Hollywood, never setting foot in a glitzy restaurant, opting instead for the underlying
fabric of the city, one built on the backs of immigrants. He exhaustively hunts for unsung
treasures, from taco trucks to Korean family restaurants in strip malls.
For two-plus decades, Gold’s reviews have been printed in the Los Angeles Times (he
is currently a food critic there), Gourmet and in LA Weekly, where he started as a
proofreader fresh out of college in 1982, with zero aspirations of becoming a food critic.
As a proofreader, however, Gold says he was bored, so he gave himself a challenge:
Eat at every food joint on Pico Boulevard, a scrappy 15.5-mile thoroughfare that cuts like
a crescent across L.A.
It was here a green Gold found his favorite chili fries and discovered the diversity of
L.A. cuisine. On Pico, for example, Gold describes how he learned that not all “Mexican”
food was the same, that each restaurant or chef may cook a different regional cuisine,
from Oaxaca to Baja.
“Pico is where I learned to eat,” Gold says.
(One editor in the film points out that for Gold, as a young man who had recently
discovered his love for L.A.’s punk-rock scene and ethos, reviewing burrito trucks rather
than traditional restaurants was his own form of disruption.)
Twenty years later, Gold can wax poetic about Oaxacan mole negro in a way that will
make your belly rumble with envy (see Gold’s 2009 “Moles La Tia: Beyond the
Magnificent Seven” in LA Weekly).
When the camera is not following him, talking to the chefs and cooks of the city,
tasting their fare, he’s seen at home with his head in some culinary book, surrounded by
stacks of the same.
It’s not just the latest food sensation that Gold is after, but what underlies it — the
families, neighborhoods, immigrant traditions and social circumstances that buttress
each dish. Gold recalls the deli culture that was so important to his own Jewish
upbringing, how the deli your family frequented reflected your status.
Gold is less a food critic than a cultural commentator in the tradition of Calvin Trillin,
using food as a universal tool for understanding our fellow man.
The world could use more of that.
Bon appétit. ■
City of Gold opens April 15 at Broadway Metro.
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12:45 3:00 5:15 7:30 9:45
KRISHA
12:40 2:50 5:00 7:10 9:20
EYE IN THE SKY
11:45 2:10 4:35 7:00 10:00
EMBRACE OF THE SERPENT (EL ABRAZO DE LA SERPIENTE)
2:25
WHERE TO INVADE NEXT 11:45 5:10
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7:50 9:30
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IMAX: BATMAN V SUPERMAN: DAWN OF JUSTICE
[CC,DV] (PG-13) ★
Fri. - Sat.1005 PM
IMAX: BATMAN V SUPERMAN: DAWN OF JUSTICE 3D
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Fri. - Sat.1155 AM 315 PM 645 PM
HARDCORE HENRY [CC,DV] (R)
Fri. - Sat.(1140 215) 445 725 1015
THE BOSS [CC,DV] (R)
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CHONGQING HOT POT NR Fri. - Sat.(1150 220) 450 720 1035
GOD'S NOT DEAD 2 [CC,DV] (PG)
Fri. - Sat.(1210 305) 625 1010
BATMAN V SUPERMAN: DAWN OF JUSTICE
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Fri. - Sat.(1125 245) 715 935
BATMAN V SUPERMAN: DAWN OF JUSTICE 3D
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Fri. - Sat.(1130 155) 425 655 940
MIDNIGHT SPECIAL [CC,DV] (PG-13)
Fri. - Sat.(1220 300) 635 945
THE DIVERGENT SERIES: ALLEGIANT [CC,DV] (PG-13)
Fri. - Sat.(1235) 415 705 1030
MIRACLES FROM HEAVEN [CC,DV] (PG)
Fri. - Sat.(1205 250) 620 950
10 CLOVERFIELD LANE [CC,DV] (PG-13)
Fri. - Sat.(1225) 420 710 955
LONDON HAS FALLEN [CC,DV] (R)
Fri. - Sat.(1135 AM)
ZOOTOPIA [CC,DV] (PG)
Fri. - Sat.(1145 240) 630 925
ZOOTOPIA 3D [CC,DV] (PG) ★ Fri. - Sat.(1215 PM 310 PM)
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10 CLOVERFIELD LANE (DIG)
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BATMAN V SUPERMAN: DAWN
OF JUSTICE (3D) (PG-13)
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10:55, 12:40, 1:55, 2:40, 4:25,
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BATMAN V SUPERMAN: DAWN
OF JUSTICE (DIG) (PG-13)
10:25, 11:40, 3:15, 6:25, 7:00,
9:25, 10:10
THE BOSS (DIG) (R)
10:30, 1:10, 4:10, 7:25, 10:00
DEADPOOL (DIG) (R)
10:40, 1:20, 4:35, 7:50, 10:30
DEMOLITION (DIG) (R)
10:45, 1:35, 4:40, 7:30, 10:10
THE DIVERGENT SERIES:
ALLEGIANT (DIG) (PG-13)
10:25, 1:15, 4:30, 7:35, 10:25
EYE IN THE SKY (DIG) (R)
10:20, 1:05, 4:05, 7:45, 10:20
GOD’S NOT DEAD 2 (DIG) (PG)
12:20, 3:20, 6:55, 9:55
HARDCORE HENRY (DIG) (R)
10:15, 11:40, 2:30, 4:55, 7:55,
10:30
HELLO, MY NAME IS DORIS
(DIG) (R)
10:15, 11:30, 1:50, 4:20, 7:05,
9:40
MIRACLES FROM HEAVEN
(DIG) (PG)
10:50, 1:40, 5:00, 7:40, 10:20
MY BIG FAT GREEK WEDDING
2 (DIG) (PG-13)
11:35, 2:00, 4:50, 7:15, 9:45
ZOOTOPIA (DIG) (PG)
10:35, 12:35, 1:25, 3:25, 4:15,
6:15, 7:10, 9:00, 10:05
eugeneweekly.com • A pril 7, 2016
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