WI N E
BY LAN CE SPARKS
DODGED ANOTHER DOOM
What to drink while waiting for the next apocalypse
Z
ot! I never could’ve guessed that here and now, at
the end of the whole world, indeed all existence, I’d
be strapped to the bench tapping out another wine
column. I always imagined myself huddled with
my loved ones, sharing fi nal kisses, maybe slurping
down that last bottle of 1961 Dow’s Port as the mushroom
clouds rise on the horizon.
Never for a moment did I envision loading the truck
with all our guns and ammo and makin’ a mad dash to
the nearest neo-Nazi fortress where we’d hunker down,
ready to take out the stumbling hordes of surviving liberals
coming to eat our food, attack our women and hug our
trees. That’s not survival; it’s just delayed disaster.
Whoa! Wait! I’ve just been cued that we missed the
Mayan Apocalypse! Calculations, it seems, were off by
just a few parsecs (see Hubble site, NGC 2623) or maybe a
millennium. Oh, well. I should’ve noticed ’cause we’re all
still here. Apparently, the next scheduled apocalypse is still
TBA, though it promises to involve zombies. Now, I know
there are lotsa zombies. I’ve seen ’em, all over town and on
the campuses. What? Someone just tweeted me that those
head-down, staggering critters are just normal people on
cell phones, not actual zombies, though related.
Anyway, this is typical of wine. In its long history
— thousands of years
— wine has survived
through nearly countless
apocalypses, and we’re still
pouring new wines into new
(and old, recycled bottles). I’m
putting the ’61 Dow’s back in the
end-of-the-world stash, mellowing for
the next Rapture or whatever. So, new
wine, and still time to drink it:
Walter Scott 2011 Pinot Blanc ($13)
is a dry white with marvelous fl avors (apples/
pears/some citrus zing) and fl oral aromas. The
texture is smooth with crisp acidity just ready for
creamy foods. Not much was made but bottles still
linger on retail shelves because so few consumers
know just how tasty and versatile pinot blanc can
be and just how talented are Ken Pahlow and Erica
Landon, owners/operators of Walter Scott Wines,
Salem.
Matt LaVelle, winemaker at LaVelle Vineyards
(Elmira) continues to ring the bell: LaVelle 2011
Pinot Gris Oregon (Extended Lees Contact) ($22) is
a good reason, if one was needed, to drink pinot gris.
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The term “extended lees,” refers to the
winemaking process of giving the juice
a bit longer contact with the crushed
fruit, resulting in enhanced fl avors and
somewhat reduced acidity. Here, we get
tropical fruit fl avors and citrus notes that beg
for fresh seafood. Gimme crab ’n’ gris, uh-huh.
We’re shameless locavores, but here’s a
conundrum: Capitello Wines is owned by winemaker
Ray Walsh, now a Eugenean, but born in New Zealand.
He travels yearly to NZ to make/bottle/label wines
which he then imports. Walsh’s Capitello 2010 Pinot
Noir Marlborough ($23) is simply superb, with bright,
expressive fruit and a texture like velvet in the mouth.
The wine is acutely balanced and the fi nish lingers long
on the palate; at this price, it’s theft that’s truly grand.
[Full disclosure: Ray once married, then divorced my
oldest daughter. I do not hold that either against him or
in his favor, and I would not recommend his wines if they
weren’t so excellent.]
Day-um! Dodged another doomsday only to dash
insanely toward the fi scal cliff. Life just couldn’t get much
more interesting. Does it make sense to wish all a happy
New Year? ■
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eugeneweekly.com • January 3, 2013
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