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BY LANCE SPARKS
Wine Sense
Wrap your lips and mind around this
I
just wanted to make a bit of sense about
wine. Silly, because so often wine
involves feelings, not reason.
When I ¿ rst launched this column, back
in the waning days of the last millennium,
I felt honor-bound to tell our editors that
I might have a teensy problem, namely
that I just couldn’t see myself as merely
another marketeer, thinly masked as a
“wine educator.” I also felt compelled to
admit that wine, measured on the scale
of Truly Important Matters, didn’t seem
to nudge the meter very far. And I could
not then — and cannot now — in any way
rationalize or justify pretentiousness about
wine, who’s number one, the best, that
kinda mopery.
Look, I groused at the eds, wine is only
fermented grape juice; when it comes to
choosing drink with dinner, wine’s way
better than water and not nearly as ¿ lling
as beer. And some of it tastes really good.
But I just can’t abide wine snootery: wars
rage, famines waste whole populations,
disease and disorder ravage the land while
some wine-boob frets about paying a couple
thousand bux for a single bottle of that
juice? Absurd, borderline nutso. Heck, I’d
rather score drinkable vino at cheapo prices.
And obsessing about wine strikes me as
more than irrational, plainly bonkers. But
some folks’ actions have almost nothing to
do with logic: Passions rule, in politics, in
relationships, in wine.
Oddly, the eds agreed to let
me create a wine column that
could roam nearly anywhere,
but included bits about wine.
Sounds right, so here we are,
down to the baseline: Wine is about
passions and taste; personal preferences of
almost any sort have nearly nothing to do
with reason. We like what we like ’cause
we like it. Of course, we can argue about
our differences, and often do, sometimes
ramping up our emotions to ultimate horror
show. We’re willing to kill for our passions.
Tired of living? Walk into the Longbranch
in Monroe and grumble, “Harley sucks.”
Take comfort that “Obamacare” will be there
when you need it.
Let’s recap: Wine is merely wine and,
please, let’s not ¿ ght about our differences
in taste. You like your chardonnays oaky
and buttery. OK. Don’t like pink wines?
Fine. Can’t stand pinot noir? What’re you,
some kinda moron? What? What!
Now: What we have here is a pink wine
that crosses borders. Ordinarily, we’d devote
the July column to rosés, hot-month wines,
but we haven’t come close to hot, so check us
in August. Meanwhile, wrap your lips around
this weird thing concocted by Mark Vlossak:
St. Innocent 2011 Oeil de perdrix
(Eye of the partridge) ($19), a pinot
noir from the highly regarded Momtazi
Vineyard (McMinnville) but
almost utterly white — but
packed with À avor, a jazzy
Meyer-lemon tartness that
demands grilled salmon —
rare, electric.
Valley View Vineyards in
the Applegate Valley, south
and west of Medford, is one of
Oregon’s pioneer wine-sites. The
Wisnovsky family has been making
tasty wines since 1976, and they’ve broken
through a regional marketing barrier with
their Anna Maria 2010 Viognier
($18). This is a À oral white made famous
in the Rhone Valley of France, but it’s
really found a home in southern Oregon.
The VV version has the À oral qualities but
also displays pear notes, a splash of citrus
and zippy acidity, suitable for summer
picnic fare, and that’s no demotion.
Lorelle NV Saignée Rosé ($12)
is fun, a simple rosie pleasure from John
Albin, a serious maker of ¿ ne wines.
The term “saignée” means that the rosé
was “bled” from the label’s pinot noir,
concentrating the colors and complexity
of À avors, but also yielding a rosé that
is bright with pinot’s simpler charms.
Shouldn’t nobody ¿ ght about this: just
savor the fresh strawberry À avors, have
another sip, fuggedaboutit.
Good wines, nice À avors, fair prices,
no ¿ ghting: that’s a formula — vaguely
logical — for fun, if, say, we actually get
some summer and can stop making sense,
ew
just get down to chuckles.
Classifieds
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