wine
Classifieds
BY LANCE SPARKS
Get On the (Wine) Bus
Happy New Year! Or at least hopeful? Sane?
O
ver the umpty years we’ve been
scribbling this column, we’ve begun
each new year with an homage to
Janus, the two-faced god — he who looks
backwards and forwards at the same time —
for whom the month is named. We wanted
to praise the year that ended, and invoke, if
possible, better times for the coming months.
Wine makes a fi ne vehicle for such
reviews: Wine-fi ends can often recall in
agonizing detail the night they quaffed that
exquisite bottle of Chateau Beauzeaux 1999;
wine-makers can often recollect the entire
growing season, dates and times, from bud-
break to harvest to crush, sometimes better
than they remember their anniversaries or
their kids’ names.
Maybe that’s just as it should be. The wine
experience is intimately linked to aromas/
fl avors, thence to emotions. Of course, our
deepest memories transcend wine, which,
after all, is really just tasty grape juice, well-
fermented.
Much as I’d like to review memories of
the grandly goofy 2011, I’ll leave that task
to my colleagues — except for one minor (I
thought) issue, which might turn out to be
indicative of … something, hard to say what.
But it does lead directly to wine.
The proposal to extend EmX into West
Eugene fi rst struck me as a mildly intriguing
technical and fi nancial question that I’d
gladly let others fuss about. Then arose
the clamorous responses by the shadowy
organization Our Money Our Transit.
Intensely tacky signs appeared on many
businesses in affected areas, shouting strong
resistance to EmX. Hmm, I thought, just
when it seemed that West 11th couldn’t
possibly get uglier, someone found a way to
add clatter to clutter.
Still I didn’t feel involved. A lot of the
emotionalism, I noted, seemed to emanate
from folks clinging to the car culture; in fact,
a lot of the upset businesses were car-related
— sales, maintenance, repairs. And taverns.
Then the tactics turned wildly zany.
Dude parked a vintage tank outside his
car biz, draped with an anti-EmX sign.
LTD itself became a target: Signs read
“LosingTaxDollars.” Huh?
The latest wiggle is most bizarre: On the
four-lane 6th Avenue west of Blair appears a
rash of signs: “Imagine Three Lanes,” then
“EmX steals your lane,” and the capper (on
what must be the ugliest fence in Oregon)
“You paid for this lane/Now EmX wants
to steal it.” A tavern warns against a 5-and-
one-half block “bottleneck” created during
construction.
What?! If I owned a biz in those tawdry
acres, I think I’d do almost anything to slow
traffi c so people might actually see me,
maybe even stop ’n’ shop. But nooo — these
wheeler-dealers wanna make sure drivers can
blow through the blocks.
OK. Now, I’m imagining six lanes, no
lights. Maybe an elevated freeway. Bullet
train? Wherever I see those signs, I imagine
hitting the gas. I’m watching out for white
rabbits and Cheshire cats.
Clearly, this year we’re gonna need lotsa
wine:
Sarver Winery is one of our region’s
newest (but on one of our oldest vineyards),
and the Sarver 2010 Pinot Gris ($16)
will please many palates. A whisper of
residual sugar accents the pear/apple fl avors,
smoothes out the acidity. Try with fresh crab.
Capitello 2010 Pinot Gris ($15)
is winning rave reviews for forward fruit
fl avors, fl awless balance — gris as good as
gris gets anywhere, elegant and fi rm.
Spangler
2010
Chardonnay
Unoaked ($15) delivers true chardonnay
fl avors — baked apple, quince — not
smothered in oak and vanilla notes. Lobster
would be a marriage.
Stop for this: Walter Scott 2010
Pinot Noir La Combe Verte ($20)
is superb, a deft blend of old-vine grapes
yielding a blast of raspberries and pepper, a
steal at this price (if EmX doesn’t snatch it).
LaVelle 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon
($28): If you can cover the fare, this bus
gathers grapes in the Columbia Valley; winds
through bold, rich fl avors of blackberries,
cassis, whiff of mint; stops at aged cheddar
or grilled fi let. Open a couple hours before
serving. Smooth ride, worth the ticket.
These are two-way wines, well-suited for
winter fare, lovely for the coming spring. But
if the face of Eugene revealed by the anti-
EmX mob is an omen of the year to come,
good wines and a sharp sense of humor
might not be enough.
ew
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