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USHI
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BLACK RICE SUSHI
The Art of Soup Recipe
DEVELOPED WITH CHEF GABRIEL GIL,
RABBIT BISTRO AND BAR
This soup method is more than a recipe; it reflects Chef Gil’s philosophy and
methodology for preparing the exquisite soups at Rabbit Bistro. It allows you to
create your own combinations using three ingredients that create a base, build a
flavor profile and provide a surprising twist. It is particularly good for those with
excess root vegetables, whether from a winter CSA box or your own root cellar. At
the restaurant, Chef Gil most frequently uses chicken stock or a heartier stock
made with chicken and beef bones, but feel free to use any suitable stock,
preferably homemade, or water.
Cream is an optional ingredient, since the soup will be made creamy by
blending. If you do not add cream, however, you should add a little brown butter,
sour cream, or even refry your soup in a little canola oil, otherwise your soup will
taste thin. If you are using water instead of stock, plan to add more cream to
round out the flavors.
CHOOSING THE INGREDIENTS
Create a soup base, using one ingredient that will provide the main flavor that
the others will complement and contrast. Some options: rutabaga, carrot, celery,
locally grown beans or lentils.
Build a flavor profile. Consider your primary ingredient. Butternut squash, for
example, is slightly sweet, gentle and earthy. To balance it, you might choose
something smoky and hot, like chipotle peppers. This ingredient can be
integrated with the base and cooked down, or added later in the process. It might
be swirled in at the last minute.
Push the envelope. Break down the components you have, then take a
contrasting leap. This ingredient is often added as a garnish, grated or floated on
top, or sunk to the bottom as hidden treasure. The butternut-chipotle
combination would be surprising with very dark and bitter chocolate, dungeness
crab, a chutney made from squash and dates, spiced pumpkin seeds or a froth of
tequila and lime (whipped with a whisk or stick blender).
Purchase your ingredients, allowing for several pounds of the base ingredient,
several quarts of chicken, beef or vegetable stock, and a cup or so of cream (if
you are using cream).
Richest nutritional value
Higher level of antioxidants,
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PREPARING THE SOUP
Cook down the main ingredient for about an hour until the cell structure
starts to collapse. You may choose to add other flavoring agents, such as onion
and garlic, to the main ingredient. For butternut squash, for example, “sweat”
cubes of squash with onions and garlic, a knob of butter or canola oil, and a bit of
chicken stock for about an hour in a stock pot over low heat with a lid on the pan.
Beans have a slightly different procedure. Sweat onion and garlic, then add the
beans and some booze with unsalted stock or water to cover and cook until they
start to lose their shape.
After your main ingredient has softened, add liquor if you are using it (Chef Gil
often uses sherry or white wine) and reduce by half. If you are using fruit (e.g.,
dates, golden raisins or apples), add it to the pot now. Then add several quarts of
your favorite chicken, beef, vegetable stock or water, and simmer until the soup
is reduced again by about half.
Purée the soup in a blender, then pass it through a fine strainer for an
unparalleled texture. Return the soup to a saucepan and add your flavor enhancer.
If using cream, for example, add it and reduce the soup a bit more to thicken and
concentrate the flavors. Sour cream should be added after removing the pot from
the burner. At the last minute, add a splash of an appropriate vinegar (e.g., if you
have used sherry in the soup, add sherry vinegar) or lemon juice to balance the
creamy flavors with some acid.
Garnish with your surprise ingredients, if you haven’t yet incorporated them,
and serve to your delighted guests.
chow.eugeneweekly.com
CHOW! Winter 2011 5