BY LANCE SPARKS
Sweet and Batty
More thankful reasons to love Oregon
F
ull agenda for us in the Wine Lab, so
much to do, so little time, but our
theme is Giving Thanks.
Sure, times are nasty —
thousands of folks out of
their homes in Southern
California, their lives
scorched, in ashes;
thousands more across
nation and world suf-
fering in varying de-
grees, from various
causes, lotta pain
widely distributed — and
promising to get even nas-
tier — how long before the
Bushites order an attack on Iran,
setting another fire in a widening war that
could make the raging brushfires of So Cal
seem like a back yard barbecue? Yet we can
cling to the remains of a season in Oregon
that has been blessed by rain (less a blessing
to grape-growers than to others), by the natu-
ral beauty of our lands and forests, by the
prospect of a holiday season that celebrates
shared passions for home, hearth, friends,
family, food, wine.
Start with lavish thanks to all who labored
been working experimental vineyards,
hooked into OSU’s viticulture program, for
nearly three decades, testing vine
clones, making wine, keeping
meticulous records, contribut-
ing to the growing knowl-
edge of the variety. Scott
admitted the ’04 C Block
was an achievement, not
perfect perhaps only be-
cause nothing is or can
be “perfect.” Close
enough, though. But be-
fore you empty the kids’
college fund, no, we can’t buy
Beauzeaux. But we can applaud
Scott and others like him — and hope
you meet him at a party when he’s toting.
While we’re at it, scoop up some thanks to
Oregon winemakers and wineries who give
generously — more than $3 million last year
— to worthy causes and charities, locally and
statewide. Case in point, Joe Dobbes, maker
of Wine by Joe 2006 “Really Good”
Pinot Noir; not only is Joe one of the state’s
most talented winemakers, and not only is the
’06 pinot noir “really good” pinot for an af-
fordable price ($18), with good flavors (dark
Thanks to the laborers who pick the grapes
and rush them to the wineries.
hard and long to bring in a difficult vintage in
rough weather. Thanks, of course, to the
growers who, like all farmers, risk their
livelihoods and their labors, every season.
But thanks also to the laborers who pick the
grapes and rush them to wineries, where
many more work into the night to move the
clusters through stemmers and crushers into
fermenting tanks. Thanks to the host of tal-
ented winemakers in our state who will apply
all their considerable skills and most ad-
vanced tools to bring us another year in the
continuing adventure of flavor that is wine.
The long Thanksgiving weekend can be a
fine occasion to road-trip to local wineries to
express our thanks in person, and at the same
time savor fermented fruits of the vines in tast-
ing rooms, while feasting our eyes on glowing
slopes and valleys of the Coast Range foothills
in full autumnal finery. Many wineries open
up only on this weekend — the excellent
Broadley in Monroe, for one notable example
— giving wine-lovers the chance to drop in
and sometimes sample wines still in barrels,
getting a taste of the future.
And while we’re on the future and dis-
pensing tokens of gratitude, let’s talk about a
guy who has contributed to the development
of Oregon pinot noir from behind the scenes
for 29 years. I met Scott Robbins at a dinner
party — tall guy, friendly eyes, easy smile,
rock-hard farmer hands — and he offered to
open a bottle of his “homemade” Chateau
Beauzeaux 2004 Pinot Noir “C”
Block: Beauzeaux, bo-zo, like the clown,
right? Nothing funny about Scott’s wine; in
fact, I waxed agog. This was nearly perfect
pinot noir: delicate without being thin or
limp, fresh, deeply complex, delivering fla-
vors all over the mouth, all on a finely bal-
anced frame. I probably babbled some before
Scott revealed that he and associates have
berry fruit, whiff of spice) and in nice bal-
ance, Joe donates a portion of every case sale
to the American Foundation for Suicide
Prevention. Joe’s premier label, Dobbes
Family Estates, does very well; thanks, Joe,
for also doing some good.
Lotsa folks are thanking Ray Walsh for a
successful experiment; Ray is another mega-
talent here in Vineland, who reached into his
home country — New Zealand — to contract
with a respected grower/pal to bring Kiwi
sauvignon blanc to Oregon for bottling, com-
ing to market wearing Ray’s own label,
Capitello
2006
Marlborough
Sauvignon Blanc ($14). Wine pros love
the wine; it arrives a slightly firmer version of
the NZ style of tropical fruit and zippy acid-
ity, would complement anybody’s roast
turkey or seafood.
Thanks also go out to whichever wily
Australian decided to explore how the Down
Under climate and soils would fare with
Riesling, made in the dry style of Alsace and
Austria. Whoever that was, send her/him a
happy thought, then dash out and shop some.
Trust your local clerks to steer you toward
these beauties: They abound. For now, find
the upside-down label for Kono Baru
2005 South Eastern Australia
Riesling ($11!). This is no sweet, syrupy
Riesling; the fruit is bright, with crisp acidity
and some of those mineral notes that make
German Rieslings so mysteriously yummy.
Great with traditional Thanksgiving grub.
Get a few thanks your own self, by showing
at the feast packing tasty bubbles. Trevisiol
Rose Brut ($16) is a bubblie Italian bargain,
full-flavored, lively, satisfying.
Last word: Our thanks to all of you for
making Oregon such a sweet, beautiful (still),
batty place to live, work, and slurp good
grape.
ew
LIVE MUSIC
(Blues, Rock, R&B & Swing)
FULL BAR • VIDEO POKER
No Cover Wednesday or Thursday!
EVERY WEDNESDAY:
Irish Session Band
EVERY THURSDAY:
Open mic with Eric & Nathan
NOVEMBER
FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 2 ND
J.C. Rico & Zulu Dragon • $4
SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 3 RD
Bill Rhoades • $6
FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 9 TH
The Valley Boys • $3
SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 10 TH
The Cheeseburgers • $4
FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 16 TH
Skip Jones & Gus Russell • $3
SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 17 TH
The Survivors • $3
FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 23 RD
West Coast Rhythm Kings • $4
SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 24 TH
Mr. DJT • $3
FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 30 TH
The Vipers
Featuring Deb Cleveland • $4
1626 Willamette, Eugene • 344-8600
ECLECTIC NORTHWEST DINING
HAPPY HOUR M-F 3:30-6:00
$ 1 O F F E V E RY T H I N G !
94 W. Broadway • 485-1124
bringing Eugene fine wines since 1983
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Complimentary wine tastings every Friday and Saturday 4-6 PM.
Huge selection of wines from the region and around the world.
More than 295 Oregon Pinot Noirs in stock.
0DQ\KDUGWR¿QGDQGDOORFDWHGZLQHV
Large organic and sustainable wine section.
Stemware and wine accessories.
Knowledgeable staff to advise you.
2470 Alder St. Eugene 687 - 9463
www.orwines.com
NOVEMBER 1, 2007 39