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About Eugene weekly. (Eugene, Oregon) 1993-current | View Entire Issue (Dec. 4, 2003)
BY LANCE SPARKS SERVING DELICIOUS NEW YORK PIZZA -BY THE SLICE AND BY THE WHOLE PIZZA PIE- Less is More 11:30AM-MIDNIGHT MON-SAT ★ 3:30PM-MIDNIGHT SUNDAY Practicing conscientious consumption. I was rattling around in my decrepit office on the 17th floor of the old highrise in downtown Eugene. Periodically, I stopped and stared through the smog-crusted windows across the cityscape, to the gray-shrouded Coburg Hills. I knew the time only from the deep- ening gray of dusk and the emergence of street lamps and house lights, already sprinkling of Christmas strings. I sipped from a snifter of Port, trying to find the spirit of Christmas. On one wall of the office hangs a col- lage portrait of Holden Caufield, the teen “hero” of Catcher in the Rye. Judith Sparks created this piece years ago, gave it to me because from the moment it was fin- ished it mesmerized me. She had captured Holden’s anguish in sad eyes and rueful mouth, his defiance in his trademark red baseball cap askew on his head. He wears a plain white T-shirt; in the background, Holden is surrounded by a photo-montage of carnival images, icons of fake-front fun that plagues the boy, a world of “phonies,” shams and charades. People masquerade behind motley costumes of piety, hiding greed and avarice under smiley faces. Holden’s eyes follow me always; remembering them, I try to keep honest and real. So much of Christmas has become phony, it makes my heart ache. I’m not all bent because the holiday isn’t holy enough. It never really was, except in largely pagan myths that celebrated the solstice (myths that gave us trees, mistletoe, elves and such). Christmas involves the story of Christ only because the Church could never succeed in stamp- ing out that ancient celebration and finally just had to co-opt the festivities, even though Christ was born in spring. I’m not bothered by the gifts, the onus of “materialism.” Gifts are sweet, tangible tokens of affection, pleasures to receive, greater pleasures to give — except when the pursuit of loving ends/goals gets twist- ed by warped means/methods. I call it the Wal-Martization of Christmas. We set out to buy items defined by beauty and quali- ty, then sacrifice both for the “bargain” — usually a product manufactured in some Third World country by people working in near-slavery conditions, all so we can save a few pennies or a couple bucks. In the process, we see our neighbors lose jobs “outsourced” to Vietnam, Bangladesh, Malaysia — and the products we buy are more and more defined by sameness of materials, styles, craftsmanship. Old rule: Crap drives out quality. Corollaries: We get what we pay for, and when we send dollars to chase dimes, we lose. And all that brings us back to wine. Bush-onomics have sent the world into a tailspin, resulting in glutted markets, tum- bling prices and consumers on tight budg- ets. So what to do? Buy three-buck-guck and get by? Drink schlock, or give it as gifts? Please, no. Let’s stay within our means, but not lose sight of our ends. If we aim to convey our love, we cannot sacrifice qual- ity. We can buy less but buy better. And some very good wines are available at very good value. Case in point: Tiny new local producer in Umpqua Valley offers Champagne $ 2.00 OFF COUPONS GOOD UNTIL DECEMBER 18, 2003 ANY 18” LARGE OR 16” MEDIUM PIZZA PLUS 2 FREE 20oz. SODAS 10¢ OFF PLUS A SLICE ® 1 FREE 12 OZ. SODA 1211 ALDER 686-9598 ON CAMPUS NEXT TO SACRED HEART HOSPITAL Creek Cellars 2001 Gewurztraminer ($8), tasty, zesty little wine with grape- fruit-like flavors and good balance, would make a fine complement to turkey and many Asian dishes — a very good bargain, and the money stays close to home. Still available in local wine shops is Eugene’s own yummy sparkling wine, Domaine Meriwether Brut Captain Wm. Clark Cuveé ($24), delicious toasty flavors, fine bubbles, stylish and distinc- tive blend of chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier for roundness of flavors, length of finish. I’d love to see this wine in a blind tasting against competitors from California or France at similar price points. I think it would show very well and would bring honor to our region. Want to show some love for someone who craves big red wines but don’t want to spend the kids’ inheritance? Find Vin de GRAND OPENING SPECIALS "One cannot think well, love well, sleep well, if one has not dined well" DINNERS, Buy 1 Entree, 2nd Entree 50% Off TO-GO ORDERS, Buy 2, Get 3rd One Free LUNCH GROUPS, Buy 5, Get 6th One Free Priya One coupon per party. Valid Monday - Thursday. EXPIRES: 12/31/03 Indian Cuisine Daily Menu Changes, Specialties and a Variety of Vegetarian Entrees Large Lunch Buffet Served Daily $5.99, 11:30-2:30 Private Catering and Banquet Room Available Lunch Buffet: 11:30-2:30, Dinner: 5-9:30 65 Division Ave, Suite M - Santa Clara Square - 541-607-1717 T as t y T h ai K it ch en Tabula Rasa 2000 Columbia Valley ($15.50). The label is whimsical, a picture post- card with a cryptic mes- sage from G. to A.,“hinting at untold secrets.” The secrets seem to be contained in the bottle, a rich, dense blend, 53 per- cent cabernet sauvi- gnon, 47 percent cabernet franc, yield- ing flavors of dark fruits, hints of chocolate on a firm structure. On the postcard’s “postmark,” we read that this wine was produced by Andrew Rich in Newberg (Oregon); with every bottling he reveals more of his very special talent. A “tabula rasa” is a “blank slate,” an echo of 17th century Cartesian philosophy that held that our minds begin as blank slates on which experience etches knowledge and character; Andrew Rich’s wine experi- ences promise to fill his slate –and our palates — with rich reading for years to come. Note on time: this wine deserves to age and mature; if you can’t give it years in a cellar, open it several hours before serving, pour it into a decanter and let it get some air. Recently, Washington merlots have commanded such big retail tickets that most folks were simply priced out of the market, but Hogue Cellars have made extraordinary efforts to remain accessible. Try their Genesis 2000 Merlot ($17) for soft, round, ripe fruit flavors (black cherry, cassis, plums); the fine tannins make the wine drinkable now, would be lovely with pork tenderloin or cassoulet. This is a genuine value. In vino veritas — In wine there is truth. And when we find that truth, and serve it with our friends and loves, we can make our holidays and our world a little less phony, a little more honest. May you all find real joy in the season: Merry Christmas. ew Authentic Food From South and North India T r ad i t i on a l T ha i Cu i si ne by Owner and Chef Pismai WEEKLY SPECIALS FOR LUNCH & DINNER VEGETARIAN & VEGAN OPTIONS AVAILABLE BEER & WINE NOW AVAILABLE NOW OPEN FOR LUNCH ON SATURDAYS! Mon - Fri 11 AM - 9:30 PM • Sat & Sun 12 PM - 9:30 PM 80 E. 29th & Willamette 302-6444 O REGON WINE MAKES A GREAT GIFT ! WE SHIP WINE! Do all of your holiday shopping from the convenience of your desk top. Visit our web site at ORWINES.COM and place your order on-line or give us a call and we will be happy to offer sugges- tions and process your order personally. We’ll pack and ship your order with one easy transaction. It’s safe, it’s easy and it’s a fun way to take care of those hard-to-buy-for people on your list. And don’t worry, we have wines to fit any budget. D ON ’ T WAIT ! W E NEED YOUR ORDER BY D ECEMBER 12 TO INSURE C HRISTMAS DELIVERY . OPEN DAILY UNTIL 7PM F REE WINE TASTINGS EVERY F RIDAY & S ATURDAY 4 TO 6 PM D ECEMBER 5: 2000 B ORDEAUX D ECEMBER 6: S ANDERS , W I N E C E L L A R S O RGANIC GERMAN WINES SUNDANCE 2470 ALDER ST. 687-WINE ORWINES.COM DECEMBER 4, 2003 39