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Street Roots • July 31-Aug. 6, 2015
Wine's not all white; nor is the industry
Documentary about m inority winemakers challenges stereotypes about Oregon’s largely white wine scene
BY EMILY GREEN
STAFF WRITER
hen Bertony Faustin started making
wine in 2008, he became the first
black winemaker on record in
Oregon. Being a trailblazer, he says, has its
advantages and its challenges.
On a sunny and parched Sunday
afternoon in July, Faustin stood behind his
tasting room bar in North Plains, about 20
minutes northwest of Portland, waiting for
the arrival of curious wine drinkers
interested in sampling his line of Abbey
Creek wines.
The Roots played on the stereo system,
while Faustin stood tall, sporting designer
jeans and loud, luminous, primary-color blue
Adidas sneakers. A simple black T-shirt
revealed a tattoo sleeve on his right arm— a
tribal design of his wine label’s logo.
Faustin is not your typical vintner.
On this day, he offered a $10 tasting four
wines, including his Juicy Fruit pinot gris
with hints of Asian pear, and the Melange
Noir, a 2013 red blend he serves with a
chocolate truffle.
With a broad smile and welcoming tone,
he cheerfully greeted two young women
from Beaverton who say they go wine
tasting frequently. The women both carried
Coach bags, both had medium-long, dark
blond hair, and when asked, both — without
PHOTO BY DIEGO DIAZ
hesitation — said they were surprised to be
Bertony Faustin, owner o f Abbey Creek Vineyard, on set during the film in g o f “Red, White a n d Black, ” a documenary about minority
greeted by a black man when they first
winemakers in Oregon.
walked in.
“Red, White and Black” will be available for
Wine tasting
“It was probably even more shocking,”
tasting, and small bites will be provided.
added one of the visitors, “that he was not
fundraiser
For him, the film project is about
just a pourer, but he is actually a
“empowerment”
He says he wants people
winemaker.”
WHAT: Wine tasting
of color to understand there are people that
It’s a reaction Faustin knows well.
featuring wineries in
look like them making and enjoying wine in
The uniqueness of being a minority
the documentary
Oregon, and he hopes that realization will
winemaker in Oregon makes Faustin
“Red, White and
encourage a more diverse range of people tq
memorable, and it makes him stand out —
Black” (small bites
go wine tasting and consider careers in the
advantages in a competitive industry.
will be provided)
industry.
But getting past his customers’ and peers’
He says it’s like the United States
initial disbelief, he says, gets old.
WHEN: 6 to 8 p.m.
presidency.
Common questions range from “How’d
Thursday, Aug. 13
you get the business?” to “Are you really the
“When I grew up, I never thought about
WHERE: Hip Chicks
owner?”
i t All the presidents I knew were white,” he
Do Wine Tasting
“Why is it so hard to believe I am the
says. “But my kids now — I hope not - but
winemaker? That I did start the label?” asks
Room, 4510 SE 23rd
they could potentially want to go be
Faustin. “Every day — it starts to build and
president because it happened. Now they
Ave., Portland
build.”
can relate.”
COST: $20;
Faustin says he didn’t want to be known
PHOTO BY DIEGO DIAZ
proceeds go toward
as “the black winemaker” — he wanted to be
4^ I \) me, the wine industry is a hustle,”
Director Jerry Bell Jr. (right) checks lighting fo r an interview session
completion of the film
known for the quality of his wine. But after
-L Faustin says. In his former life, he
during film in g in late July.
nearly eight years in the business, it was
worked as an anesthesia technician at Oregon
becoming increasingly apparent to him that
Heath & Science University, but he says he
minority winemakers needed more visibility
and I’m the winemaker — even though I do
came to a turning point in his life where he
“I think he just got tired and was ready to
in the industry.
look very young, and even though Tony
wanted to do something else. His in-laws
be that voice - to be that face,” Yap-Powell
But how do you change the perception
(Faustin) is right there. When Tony is doing
says.
owned 50 acres on Germantown Road, with
that winemaking and tasting can cross into
the tastings, they don’t ever assume th a t
15 acres of southern-facing grape vines.
The documentary is aptly titled “Red,
other demographics in Oregon’s
They just ask, “Who owns Abbey Creek?”
“I looked around and thought, I’m gonna
White and Black,” with an expected release
predominantly affluent, white wine scene?
date in 2016 — if Faustin can secure the rest
start making wine,” he says.
Faustin and Ocean Yap-Powell, his 25-year-
ne day in May, as Faustin pulled leaves
of the $25,000 he needs to finish i t He’s
Faustin says minorities “easily make up
old assistant of Chinese, Hawaiian and
from the rapidly spouting springtime
already contributed $1,500 of his own
less than 1 percent of winemakers” at
Norwegian descent, had been discussing
shoots of his grape vines, he decided he was money to the project A wine tasting event
Oregon’s 600-plus wine labels.
how to explain what it means to be a person
ready to step up and create the visibility
at Hip Chicks Do Wine in Portland from 6 to
Just minutes from his own vineyard sits
of color in the wine industry for some time.
that was sorely needed among Oregon’s
8 p.m. Aug. 13 will kick off the Indiegogo
Seven Sails, a boutique winery specializing
“I’ve noticed when I’m doing the
minority winemakers.
crowdfunding drive, and proceeds from the
in a sweet, fruity pinto gris with a dry finish.
tastings,” says Yap-Powell, “people have an
He was going to make a documentary
$20 tasting will go to support the film.
film.
easier time assuming that I’m the owner
Wines from all the vintners featured in
W
O
See W INE, page 5