It is once again time for The Upper Left Edge's Oregon
Wines of the Year. This is the 2nd edition of this
prestigious listing. The ground rules for qualifying are
pretty simple. First of all, the wines were tasted over the
course of 1995 by a select party of one (me). Mental notes
were kept along w ith some scrawls on random pieces of
paper. Secondly, the wine usually had to be something I
could afford. Since staff raises didn't come through this year
(the editor is tightfisted) some wines had to remain on the
shelves of various wine shops. The list is not totally
inclusive in the sense that many good wines went untasted.
An effort has definitely been made to include wines of
exceptional value. Lastly, the wines listed here are all still
available (to the best of my knowledge). So pop open a
bottle of something good, settle in and either enjoy and
concur or get your ire up and completely disagree with me.
In either case head on down to one of the fine local wine
shops that advertise in the Edge and pick up a bottle or two
and have a damn fine holiday season.
■4 • l» x lt t o t a af > b a
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Fresh, organically grown produce ond whole foods ... for the health of it! "
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Laurel’s
C annon
Beach
Wine Shop
Righteous persistance is rewarded.
I Ching
263 N . Hemlock
(3 0 3 ) 4 3 6 -1 6 6 6
Pinot Noir
Of all the categories this one received the bulk of my
tireless research. Good Pinot noir is now an Oregon staple
and I easily could have listed 25 or more different wines that
I found attractive during the year. With pardons to many
producers I have narrowed the list down to 9.
Cam eron 1992 Clos Electrique: This may have been
one of the top 3 or 4 wines I had all year. Explosive fruits
showing rich black cherry and rivers of blackberry are
complemented by exceptional depth, length and texture. A
big and robust Pinot that maintains elegance. Limited
availability but I know it is still out there and is a deal at
$24.
Adelsheim 1992 E lizabeth's Reserve: A big, chewy
Pinot of substantial weight and depth. This one is quite the
mouthful. Dark black cherries are complemented by earthy
undertones and enough oak to be noticeable without
intruding. Big tannins and outstanding structure make this
one of the best cellaring Pinots around. About $32.
St. Innocent 1993 O 'C onnor Vineyard: Simply a
beautiful wine. Elegant fruits waft up through the perfumy
nose. Rich cherry, raspberries and spice are substantial on
many levels. A touch of tannins on the end allow the wine
to linger on the palate. Getting harder to find but a real deal
at $15.
Cristom 1993: Steve Doerner is one of the state's most
consistent producers of high quality Pinot. This wine is
loaded with bright fruits, a velvety soft mouth feel and has a
nice backbone of some earthy tannins. Super food wine.
Steve also made the 1993 Brick House which barely missed
the cut. $16 for this super wine.
Torii Mor 1993 and 1994: Two wines out of the
block for this exciting new winery. The '93 is a heady
monster of a wine that will continue to benefit greatly from
bottle aging over the next several years. A bit of a
bamvardy nose leads into deep, rich wine absolutely swirling
with black cherry, blackberries, earth and some oak. Very _
un-Oregonlike Pinot. The '94 is already an elegant wine
that will gain depth and richness over this next year. The
wine has distinctly feminine characteristics but is no
lightweight. Excellent body supports a ton of spicy fruits.
Both wines go for about $15.
Broadley 1994 Reserve: Going out on a limb a little
with this one. A brand new release. This wine has huge
fruits, actually more characteristic of Rhone wines. This
wine is full of muscle. A spicy finish that has a hint of
drying to it that is worrisome, but not necessarily how the
wine will show in the future. Cellar for years. $15 is a
deal.
Bethel Heights 1993 Southeast Block: Always an
excellent producer and the Southeast Block of their vineyards
is a superb site. Compliments to the Casteels for allowing
the quality of the site to come through in this intensely
fruity wine. An elegant nose leads into a big, satisfying
wine. A good deal even at $25.
Cooper M ountain 1992 Reserve: Silky smooth
Pinot. Deep and heavily concentrated wine. Deep, brooding
cherry flavors, coffee and a buttery quality make this a sinful
Pinot. This has been out for a while but don't pass it by
just because you've seen it on the shelves for a long time.
This is a real beauty at $18.
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C hardonnay
Recently, noted wine columnist Matt Kramer wrote in
his Wines of the Year column that there were no Oregon
Chardonnays worth mentioning at this time. Matt is
wrong. Yes, by and large Oregon Chardonnays are not so
good but there are some that merit recognition.
K ram er 1992 Estate Bottled: Soft but sturdy apple
and pear flavors are the backbone of this delightful
Chardonnay. Unexpectedly it is as much like French
Chablis as any stateside Chard I have had. Good weight and
excellent balance make for a wine that you can close your
eyes and taste the French limestone in. Good value at $13.
Ken W right Cellars 1994 Celilo Vineyard: Still
very young but already quite impressive. This wine needs to
breathe for a couple before serving. It is tight and a tad
gassy at first but after breathing it develops into a luscious
wine with flavors of apricots, almonds and apple pie a la
mode. Full bottles go for $17, splits at $10.
Casual Dining
Overlooking the riestucca River
S p irits •
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Fresh Seafood D inners • Home Baked Desserts
Live Music Every Saturday night
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Evrie Vineyards 1994: The premier producer in the
state. Still. The key to Eyrie's Pinot gris has always been
excellent body and weight. Flowery fruits of pears, apricots,
kiwi and lilac make this wine lovely to drink on its own or
with food. A nice wine for $13.
Edgefield 1994 Zinfandel: Yes, the brothers
McMennamin have a wine worth ordering instead of a
Terminator. The best Oregon Zin I have had. Big,
sumptuous mid-palate fruits and good structure and,
importantly with Zin, not too overblown, fat or hot. Not
released yet, but soon. Look for it.
Serendipity 1994 M arechal Foch: Another star from
this Polk County winery. Despite its youth this wine
shows very well. Deep fruits meld with American oak to
create flavors of chocolate covered cherries, coffee and sherry.
Excellent wine with a wide variety of meats. A good wine
to cellar, especially at just $ 14.
Secret House Red Silk 1993 Methode
Champenoise: It's always good to find a wine that goes
with brunch. This 100% Pinot noir based sparkling wine is
one that will go well with desserts. Beautifully colored, this
wine delivers big fruits, crisp, tight bubbles all without
being too leesy or yeasty. Toast the holidays for $16.
10
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investigations
the mid-palate. Gripping tannins provide the wine with
structure on the finish while still allowing the fruit to rush
through to the lingering finish. $25 and well worth every
penny for drinking now or cellaring.
Other Wines
Bridgeview 1993 Black Beauty M erlot: Laurant
again proves to be the top dog of Merlot makers in Oregon.
This is as good a bargain as you will find. Rich and deep
with flavors of cherry, leather, tobacco and a wonderful
finish of bitter chocolate. Good now but will age over the
next couple of years into a smooth wonder. Only $12.
Cuneo Cellars "C ana's Feast" 1992 Bordeaux
Blend: A stunningly good Cabernet blend (73% Cab, 15%
merlot, 12% Cab Franc) from Oregon. Big opulent fruits
are dominant in the wine but earthy qualities arc distinct in
The Sasquatch Sleuth
O regon
Pinot G ris
C a b e rn e t and M e rlo t
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