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! SURFING
with the
p*f toy
o>* >■»«•<• C> ,Jfof t u f t
J am . 15
t > k »« ’ W ***'*^
2
GREAT WHITE
SHARK
Keim* H om M m oar Imt, >wW Aa
isaanJn«
ib e a * « «atoiwtMt
Calè Espresso
6 0 0 H rikw lw dy #7 la h x ig Kitt-rsid«*)
by Survivor
Seaside, ( k e ^ o n
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7 W -4 IM
There was a m orning la s t O c t
o be r when th e cove was w o rk in g as
p e r f e c t as i t e v e r has in th e p a s t
few y e a rs .
Dawn p a t r o l and I was
hop pin g to g e t in t o my w e t s u it ,
in to th e w a te r.
Even though i t
was s t i l l d a rk , c o u ld n 't even see
th e w a v e s ...b u t we a l l knew, we
a l l knew.
Guess I was f o u r t h i n ; Hot
Foddie and L i t t l e Bob were a lre a d y
in .
Joe Roper and th e n me. A ll
th e P o in t guys were o u t th a t day,
'ca u se hey, th e y d o n 't g e t to s u r f
a r i g h t h a r d ly e v e r o u t th e r e .
The sun was j u s t a glow o v e r th e
east h i l l s .
I ca u g h t a wave,
s m a ll, y e t I p a d d le d in , p la n e d ,
dropped in , pooped up, a c t u a lly
d id a n ic e b o tto m t u r n .
Next
wave I hooked in t o was so e f f o r t
le s s I was a b le to s m ile f ie n d
is h ly a t the H a s s le r.
I watched
b e a u t if u l waves, I watched s u r fe r s
g lid e , speed, la ugh and h o o t,
tu r n and k ic k o u t w ith a g ra c e , a
s t y le , a c e r t a in fin e s s e I have
n o t y e t re a ch e d .
Next wave I p a d d le d f o r ,
c o rn e r o f my e y e , saw a power
p a d d le r coming fro m S h ilo ;
s in c e
we seemed to be a t th e pea k, I
f ig u r e d h e 'd go l e f t . I ' d go
r i g h t , b u t NO. He snakes my
l i t t l e wave and as he c u ts p a s t
me, tu rn s and b e llo w s , "H e y !"
I ’ m s h a k in g , t h a t was th e P re
d a to r.
So, now I hang on the
s h o u ld e r.
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S f A STORIES
GAFF PRESS
PO Bo> ’ 024
AUcxa
97 ’ 03
io
-J JO
I'm a b e g in n in g s u r f e r .
I
borrow ed a w e ts u it fro m a f r ie n d
who had been b i t t e n by a G reat
W h ite .
S u it f u l l o f p u n c tu re s ,
a ta d b i t c h i l l y in th e P a c if ic ,
b u t I f ig u r e t h i s ;
what a re th e
odds o f a shark b i t i n g in t o
the
same s u it tw ic e ?
I am s u p e r s t it -
o u s , never e a t tuna sa n n ie s th e
same day I go o u t .
I f I ever
have a shark dream , I t h in k lo n g
b e fo re I s u it u p .
Sometimes I
d o n 't even go, y e t I'm hooked.
The s e d a tio n o f f l o a t i n g 1n a
w o n d e rfu l b u t I l l u s o r y w o rld o f
no w o r r ie s , no p a in , no a p p re h e n
s i o n . . . th a t is my wave.
So when I f i n a l l y met Kenny
D oudt, I ' d heard so many d i f f e r
e n t v e rs io n s o f th e infam ous Hay
s ta c k Rock shark a t t a c k . . .
There he was a t th e Cove, s e l li n g
me h is book.
I ’ m r e a l l y new to
t h i s w o rld o f s u r f , s u r f , and o n ly
s u rf.
Nany c f th e p e o p le 1n th e
book a re le g e n d s , fa c e s ; maybe
I know them by th e boa rd th e y
r id e , p ro b a b ly th e c a r th e y d r iv e .
K enny's book reads l i k e a m ovie.
I was s u r f in g a lo n g s id e h im , I
was in th e am bulance. T h is is
Joön Paul Surren
a* •*
D O O T 'S B o o h , i S
A V A itA ftu t * r T U f t iM - ’ W o M D
SURFING WITH THE GREAT WHITE SHARK
by Kenny Doudt
re vie w e d by
E m ily von H in c k e ld y
M i d d * W a t im C o l i n C o .
RPHY
KENNY DOUDT
a e o K S
NW", »M L«»*n< 6r.»\**eji
M ich a h M l
a p a in f u l book, b u t is
r e a lity .
Kentty d ie d , b u t l i s t e n to t h i s :
he s u r fe d two months l a t e r and
ta u g h t h is p r e c io u s sons to s u r f .
You may have a d a u g h te r, a
husband, a son o r a u n t who s u r f s .
D o n 't l e t t h i s book s c a re y o u .
Kenny 1s an i n s p ir a t io n . That is
th e power o f th e o cea n.
T h is 1s
what Kenny s a id to me th e o th e r
d a y ..." Y o u have J u s t g o t to l i v e .
There is no o th e r w a y ."
By th e w a y . . . I F YOU DON'T
SURF NOW, DON'T START.
► < .,« •»
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S e a s id e
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BOOKS ANO ESPRESSO BAR
1 1 1 U ruadw ay « 3 • Seuk-d« O A 'J 7 1 3 8
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COLLI. C l A f t u L 5 • BOOKS
• JU N K «
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A t t o r ia OB.
(503) 436 130)
I h<- W h a le so n g J o u r n a l, w h ic h was
p u b lis h e d in 1990, w ill r e t u r n n e x t
y e a r as W h a le so n g 1993, a 96 pag e
a n n u a l p u b lic a tio n . I t is c u r r e n t ly
s e e k in g w o rk s b y lo ca l w r it e r s and
a r t is t s in a n y g e n re , m edium o r fo rm .
T h e e m p h a s is is on in n o v a t iv e and
u n iq u e w o rk s th a t p u s h th e
b o u n d a rie s o f th e w r it e r o r a r t is t
D e a d lin e f o r s u b m is s io n s is J a n u a r y
31, 1993. T o r m ore in fo r m a tio n
r e g a r d in g s u b m is s io n s w r it e :
W halesong 1993. P .O .B o x 39
C a n n o n B e a c h . OR 97110, o r c o n ta c t
G ra n t Wood at 436 1902.
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