Vernonia's voice. (Vernonia, OR) 2007-current, May 19, 2016, Page 8, Image 8

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    8
in other words
may19
2016
Diggin’ in the Dirt: Managing Bambi
By Chip Bubl
Oregon State University
Extension Service - Columbia County
Information needed for new version of
the Local Food Guide
 
Our Extension office is gathering 
information for a new version of the local 
food guide. We need your help to locate 
farmers that are either selling food direct 
to  consumers  from  the  farm,  farmers’ 
markets,  and/or  through  a  CSA.  Food 
can  be  u-picked  or  already  picked.  We 
are also interested in anyone selling local 
meat, fish, or cheese. Finally, we would 
like  to  list  people  that  raise  transplants 
of  vegetables  that  they  sell  directly  to 
consumers  at  any  of    the  venues  listed 
above.  You  can  call  or  email  Jenny 
Rudolph  (jenny.rudolph@oregonstate.
edu) or myself (chip.bubl@oregonstsate.
edu ) or call the office directly (503 397-
3462) with your information.
Heat loving crops
 
Oregon’s erratic spring weather, 
often with below freezing conditions one 
day, a downpour the next and 70 degrees 
the following day, may play havoc with 
warm season crop seed germination. 
 
As  a  result,  Oregonians  have 
great  success  growing  tomatoes, 
eggplants  and  pepper  plants  started 
indoors  or  in  a  greenhouse,  then 
transplanted  into  the  garden  when  the 
soil has warmed to at least 60 degrees. 
 
But  some  warm  season  crops, 
including  beans,  cucumbers,  squash, 
corn, and melons are more successfully 
grown if they are directly seeded into the 
soil.
 
Here  are  tips  to  avoid 
germination  failure  in  direct  seeded, 
warm season crops:
• Wait to plant warm weather crops until 
the  soil  reaches  70  degrees  at  the  two-
inch depth during the day.
•  Plant  shallowly.  Small  seeded  crops 
such  as  tomato  and  pepper  should  be 
planted no more than one-fourth to one-
half  inch  deep  when  direct  seeding. 
Larger  seeded  crops  such  as  beans  and 
corn seed should be covered with sand, 
vermiculite,  fine  peat  moss  or  perlite 
instead of soil.
•  Buy short season varieties.
•  Warm  the  soil  prior  to  planting  and 
until  seedlings  emerge  with  a  plastic 
mulch, cloche, Wall-o’-Water, spun fiber 
or  fabric  “floating”  row  cover  or  cold 
frame.  After  seedlings  emerge,  remove 
close  fitting,  non-breathing  covers  such 
as clear polyethylene to prevent cooking 
the  seedlings.  Floating  row  covers  of 
spun-bonded  fabric  may  be  left  on  the 
seedlings  if  they  are  loose  enough  to 
allow  the  plants  to  grow,  for  up  to  six 
weeks  after  emergence.  Watch  for  and 
remove  weeds  that  may  also  emerge 
quickly with the crops.
•  For  planting,  prepare  a  well  aerated 
soil,  incorporating  plenty  of  well 
decomposed organic matter.
•  Do  not  soak  any  type  of  seed  to  pre-
sprout for more than four hours. In four 
hours most seeds will have become fully 
imbibed  and  the  first  chemical  changes 
in  germination  will  have  begun.  If  you 
do  pre-soak  seeds,  rinse  them  several 
times with tepid water, being careful to 
discard  the  soaking  water  which  may 
contain seed treatment chemicals. Plant 
The public is invited to come 
honor those who have served, 
given their lives or are still missing
Memorial Day 
Service
Monday,
May 30th
11:00 AM
at Vernonia 
Memorial Cemetery
2080 Bridge Street
the seed promptly after soaking.
• Do not soak bean and corn seed at all, 
as  they  can  be  seriously  damaged  by 
soaking.
From Dr. Bill Mansour, Extension
Vegetable Specialist, emeritus
Managing Bambi
 
The  tree  or  shrub  or  vegetable 
we  plant  will  only  thrive  if  Bambi  or 
her brethren don’t covet it. So what are 
our  options?  First,  you  can  plant  trees 
and  shrubs  deer  don’t  like.  The  Sunset 
Garden  book  has  a  list  or  you  can  go 
to  our  web  page  (http://extension.
oregonstate.edu/columbia/)  and 
get a list there. There are few 
edible plants on that list but 
lots  of  nice  ornamental 
species.  Or  you  can 
fence  deer  out,  usually 
the best solution.  More 
on that next month.
 
Repellents  can 
be  used  only  on  plants 
not producing food in the 
season you use a repellent. 
The most effective products 
seem  to  be  ones  that  have 
something  rotten  in  them.  Deer-
Away™  has  “putrescent  egg  solids”  as 
the  active  ingredient,  otherwise  known 
as rotten eggs. 
 
Another product that has a good 
reputation currently (and did the best in 
a  test  in  the  Olympic  Rain  Forest  on  a 
forest  replant  site)  is  a  product  called 
Plantskydd™.  While  the  ingredients 
are  proprietary,  they  seem  to  be  based 
on  rotten  things  from  Sweden  formula 
(perhaps  fermented  blood  meal).  Less 
effective  are  mixtures  that  rely  on 
garlic or hot pepper extracts. Mint oil 
repels  east  coast  deer  but  there  has 
been little testing here. There are a lot 
of new products on the market so this 
is still a work in progress.
 
Repellents  should  be  applied 
now  and  re-applied  several  times, 
especially after rain.
 
A  homemade  deer  repellent: 
Beat  one  egg  with  ½  cup  milk  (past 
its  use  by  date  and  slightly  smelly  is 
better).  Add  1  tablespoon  of  cooking 
oil  and  one  tablespoon  of  liquid  dish 
detergent. Add  mixture  (using  a  sieve 
to  remove  any  clumps)  to  a  gallon  of 
water  and  stir  or  shake  well.  Spray 
mixture on non-edible plants every one 
to two weeks. If you try it, let me know 
if it works for you.
Food Safety or Food Preservation
Questions? OSU Extension Service
Has Answers.
 
Are  you  planning  to  preserve 
food  from  your  garden  or  purchased 
from a farm this summer? If so, call or 
visit  the  OSU  Extension  Service  office 
before  you  start  canning,  freezing,  or 
drying.    Costly  and  potentially  harmful 
mistakes can be made by using outdated 
canning recipes and instructions. You can 
find  free  publications  at  the  Columbia 
County  Extension  office  located  at 
505  N.  Columbia  River  Highway  in 
St.  Helens  (across  from  the  Legacy 
Clinic).  If  you  have  questions, 
phone the office at (503) 397-
3462.    You  can  download 
for  free  all  our  food 
preservation publications 
at 
http://extension.
oregonstate.edu/fch/
f o o d - p r e s e r v a t i o n . 
An  additional  great 
resource  is  the  National 
Center  for  Home  Food 
Preservation  at  http://
www.uga.edu/nchfp/ . 
Take excess produce to the food
bank, senior centers, or community
meals programs. Cash donations to
buy food are also greatly appreciated.
The Extension Service offers its
programs and materials equally to all
people.
Free newsletter
The Oregon State University Extension 
office  in  Columbia  County  publishes  a 
monthly  newsletter  on  gardening  and 
farming  topics  (called  Country  Living) 
written/edited  by  yours  truly.  All  you 
need  to  do  is  ask  for  it  and  it  will  be 
mailed  to  you.  Call  (503)  397-3462  to 
be put on the list. Alternatively, you can 
sign up for email notification of when to 
find the latest edition on the web at http://
extension.oregonstate.edu/columbia/.
Contact information for the Extension
office
Oregon  State  University  Extension 
Service – Columbia County
505 N. Columbia River Highway (across 
from the Legacy clinic)
St. Helens, OR 97051
503 397-3462
Email: chip.bubl@oregonstate.edu
TOO BUSY?
Call your LOCAL bookkeeper
Master of  Ceremonies
Pastor Grant Williams
Colors Presented By
Aloha Post #104
Speaker
Sally Harrison, 
Former Mayor City of  Vernonia
Music
Vernonia High School Choir
• Plan to arrive early! Limited seating available •
For information, please call Vernonia City Hall 503-429-5291
Ceremonies Sponsored by:  City of  Vernonia
This space courtesy of  Fuiten, Rose & Hoyt Funeral Home
Forest Grove and Vernonia
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