Just out. (Portland, OR) 1983-2013, June 13, 2008, Page 43, Image 43

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    JUNE 13, 2008
justputio
Savory Sweets
he exquisite combination of savory and
sweet can be found in cultures all over
the world. Yet for some reason there lurks
a great taste divide within many Ameri­
cans’ palates—do you want salty or sweet?
Thanks to these three fine establishments, now you
can have your cake and savory, too.
Pine State Biscuits
3640 S.E. Belmont St., 503-236-2246,
uww. pinestatebiscuits. com
If you’ve been to the Portland Farmer’s Mar­
ket, you’ve seen the line. Yes, the one that’s an
hour long and ends with a hot, steamy biscuit.
These North Carolina fellas have (finally!)
opened up a tiny boutique to barter their biscuits.
The four-table, counter-serviced shop keeps the
menu simple. But don’t be fooled: You will even­
tually want to eat one of everything. The now na­
tionally acclaimed Reggie Deluxe hoists a moist,
crumbly main attraction filled with fried chicken,
Heritage Farms bacon, Tillamook cheddar, an
over-easy egg and sausage gravy. My left ventricle
said, “No effin’ way”; my mouth and gut dutifully
ignored it. Be sure to dress lightly, as the crowds,
tight quarters and belt-busting bites are guaran­
teed to have your biscuits toasty.
blit YOU get
the present!
PHILOXEN1A
Hospitality
112NW9thAve.
.
.
Visit our Just Out (C6-C12)
booth at Portland Pride's
waterfront festival and
take home a copy of Just
Out and a FREE swag bag*
503-227-2158
EST1ATOR1O
Restaurant
7712 SE 13th Ave.
503-230-2165
ôwtic
(jYèôkfad - cUfWúlly
Jáce Gáce
ó I makí ''
- 'lôillaw.ôtte yitík
2045 S.E. Belmont St., 503'239-1887,
wuw .jacegace. com
The sandwich board outside says it all: art/
waffles/beer. Part art/music/movie gallery, part
waffle haven and part merchant of obscure mi­
crobrew medleys, Jáce Gáce (pronounced “jah-say
gah-say”) has found its own unique stride in a lo­
cation known for just that. A chalkboard menu
lists daily choices for waffles, ranging from rum
and espresso-soaked tiramisu to black beans and
avocado cornmeal. I opted for the waffle purist
experience, ordering a plain Brussels-style waff
with powdered sugar and fresh-squeezed lemon.
It was airy, crisp and perfectly sweet. Next time
I got the gut-busting poached eggs and sausage­
gravy-smothered cornmeal waffle—undeniably
the city’s best breakfast alternative.
*swag not included,
but the bag is darn purty
(5
Little Red Bike Café
4823 N. Lombard St., 503-289-0120,
www.littleredbikecafe.com
If cute servers, a bike-thru window and home­
made doughnut holes aggravate you, stay far away.
This quaint St. John’s hideaway could be NoPo’s
best-kept secret. Fried egg sandwiches served on
rectangular ciabatta come with a plethora of awe­
some add-ons: Beecher’s Flagship cheeses, fig jam,
prosciutto, caramelized onions, applewood-smoked
bacon—you get the picture. The Vegan BLT (yes,
I understand it’s an oxymoron) is by far the most out­
standing meatless sandwich I’ve ever had—bursting
with flavorful smoked tempeh, avocado and vegan
dill aioli. Proudly serving Courier Coffee, Foxfire
teas and organic OJ, Red Bike is undoubtedly geared
toward green. Go for the delicious local and organic
food; stay for the cutesy atmosphere and the equally
terrific multigrain eye candy.
J enny N guyen is a freelance food writer with an
appetite for alliteration. Pick a peck of pickled
press by posting epiqueerean@comcast.net.
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