APRIL 4, 2008 JUStOUt Hold the Bologna here are few edible items more univer­ sal and variant across all continents than that of the formidable sandwich. A simple idea: two slices of bread and a plethora of goodness in between. Here are three spreads with bread cred. . Kenny fr Zuke's Delicatessen 1038 S.W. Stark St., 5O3-222-DEL1, www. kennyandzukes. com This airy Jewish market is like a beacon of delight in the middle of dreary downtown. An open kitchen produces the city’s finest Reuben with house-cured and -smoked pastrami. Chatter loudly, produce wild’hand gestures and sip on one of the multitude of fine bottled bevies, including a mammoth international soda selection. Survey Stark whilst whittling away at an intimidating double-decker of corned beef and roasted turkey that dwarfs the traditional club’wich. Add to that pickled beef tongue, potato knishes, latkes and noodle kugels and you’ve got yerself a full-blown feast fit for a hero. Best Baguette 8308 S.E. Powell Blvd., 503788-3098 If you haven’t had a chance to sink your teeth into a French-inspired Vietnamese classic hoagie sandwich, banh mi, you don’t know what you’re missing. Usually found pre-made and wrapped in cellophane at Asian markets, Vietnamese sand­ wiches are starting to pop up in shops dedicated to fresher, more diverse and more authentic versions of the meat torpedo. At Best Baguette you’ll find the city’s freshest, most crisp and fluffy baguettes spread open and stuffed to the brim with any com­ bination of meats and garnish. Get the house stan­ dard and walk away with a warm foot-long full of liver pâté, headcheese, ham and Southeast Asian bologna (for lack of a better term). Garnished with pickled daikon and carrots, cilantro and sliv­ ers of jalapenos, it is by far the best deal at a paltry $2.65. Now that’s what 1 call a happy meal. Valentine's 232 S.W. Ankeny St., 503-248-1600 This hole-in-the-wall bar offers sweet refuge from the rowdy, beer-guzzling goofs who infiltrate downtown every Saturday (or Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday) night. Sporting a lovely upstairs fit for cuddling and mingling and a pretty sweet retro-style bar, this late-night eatery has the digs, the DJ and the dish. Get a sampling of its fare for coffee lounge $9: Toasted sourdough accompanies any three smatterings of stuffing for a sort of build-your-own sandwich. The egg salad with blue cheese and • Stumptown Coffee • Handcrafted Pastries bacon is devilishly delish; the meathalls in mari­ nara are plump, juicy and savory; and the brie (Vegan and Traditional Pastries made by Neighborhood Bakers) with homemade onion relish is outstanding. Paired with a perfectly shaken martini or a gob­ let of Stella Artois and we ain’t eatin’ Grandma’s hoagies anymore. © J enny N guyen is dodging hail, snow and ram this spring to bring food fodder for your brain. Thank her by writing to epiqueerean@comcast.net. She'll eat it up. • Toasted Bagels with Spreads 8338 N. LomuaRÒ Mon-Sat 7am-7pm I Sunday 8am-5pm 503-247-1066 17I0AN Killingsworth 503.473.8616 35