3 iustiout by Marty Davis J Road Trip VOL. 24 NO. 19 'NEWSMAGAZINE AUGUST 3, 2007 Rural county adventure teaches a lesson in values u ou’re the first car down this road in five hours,” spoke the forlorn-looking fella, standing next to his hood-up, equally forlorn- looking, now lifeless truck. Y nd with those words, this • dusty hackroad encounter put into place a rural country adventure that will linger in my mind for some time. Let’s leave the hrokedown guy standing by the side for just a hit longer, to allow me to set the scene for you as to where 1 was and why 1 was the first car to drive down the road that hot afternoon in Morrow County. In truth, it might have been in Umatilla County, because, you see, I had no real idea as to where 1 was. That’s the point of backroad adven­ tures. I wasn’t lost; 1 simply had no idea where I was or where 1 was going. Travel imitating life, perhaps? Let’s start at the beginning. I recently took a spontaneous Friday and Saturday off and headed out to find adventure. Friday was spent gloriously wandering the Washington side of the Columbia River Gorge, arriving many happy hours later at my overnight stop in Pendleton. Folks, if you want to truly see the beauty of the Columbia River Gorge, do it from Highway 14 on the Washington side. It’s not a crowded freeway filled with big rigs and RVs. There’s delightful small towns along the way—just enough, not too many. Best of all, you’ll find much river access leading to quiet vistas, many boasting the best blackberries on the planet. A fine day it was indeed. Saturday brought a simple plan. Arrive back in Portland by midnight, and take the longest, most illogical route possible. Go where I’ve never been, see what I’ve never seen. And, of course, find a good place for lunch. I had never visited Heppner or Ukiah. 1 wanted to check both off my been- to-all-Oregon-towns list, but their locations made the possibility of this seem improbable even for me. So 1 set off for Ukiah, as this town is often mentioned as a weather reporting station, whereas Heppner, well, Heppner is seldom mentioned by anyone anywhere. That decision made, I say farewell to the road to Heppner and head south, the logical direction to return to Portland. Merrily rolling along, 1 am enjoying sunshine, golden fields, rolling hills and the awareness that absolutely no one else seems to be traveling this road, this day. And this, mind you, was still the main highway south. Glorious solitude, I tell you, simply glorious. And then out of the comer of my eye appears a dirt road leading off into the far hills. A solitary sign indicates that this road will, eventually, emerge at the other end and join another. I’m on it in a heartbeat. It’s a fine road: narrow, packed dirt and gravel, the kind I grew up with, the kind I learned to drive on. The road takes me through valleys and hills, dry streams—and then, up ahead, a white pickup, quiet and stopped, hood raised in despair. Journey Through Time FEATURE 22 BABES IN THE FIELDS Is this a soccer festival or a radical party for queer women? NEWS * 8-17 NORTHWEST Oregon Scenic XByway Gay-friendly commissioner will not rerun; lesbians play ball; train for a campaign; Men’s Wellness Center welcomes new hire; Brother to Brother hires sister; drag queens break world record; leadership camp has local support; faith community supports repeal; Merkley challenges Smith; Silverado hints at business plans off Stark Street; lawyers caution romantics about domestic partnership registry; a check-in with PFLAG leaders; is there enough philanthropy to support two foundations?; Tina Kotek thrives in first session 1 say, I’ll go find someone to help you. He reluctantly provides long, complicat­ ed directions, and down the road I continue. I leave him standing in the sun. But now armed with medicine for his bee stings. 1 am prepared for all emergen­ cies. Excluding breakdowns. 18-19 NATIONAL Hate crimes bill in limbo; Fort Lauderdale It’s actually not difficult to find the ranch, as it’s the only one out there. mayor asked to resign; Massachusetts 1 realize immediately that 1 have crossed into a parallel universe and entered my welcomes New Mexicans to marry; signature fantasy life. Ranch house in the middle of nowhere. Beautiful white home with scandal implicates lawmaker; Vermont to porches and gardens. Big wood stove. 1 stifle the urge to holler, “Hi, I’m home, study marriage; domestic partnership law what’s for dinner?" I’m invited in by the grandmother, who chats away while we begins in Washington ponder what to do with brokedown fella. 1 am clearly not in Portland anymore. 20-21 WORLD Austrian gay leader acquitted of libel; mayor There’s a big American flag on one wall. Her son served in Afghanistan, in blasts Budapest Pride attackers; Ireland to the National Guard. He’s gone off to take salt to the cattle, up in the hills. He pass civil unions; lesbian couple killed in gave up waiting for the repairman and isn’t around to do road rescue. I arrive at South Africa; IGLHRC denounces Iran the conclusion that I’ve got to go back and get the driver, Don, and bring him sodomy executions; Kathmandu police to the ranch. As 1 start to pull out, a truck pulls in behind me, and out pile the assault trans people; Hong Kong acquits car sex couple two grandsons and one bedraggled Don. “I was coming back for you,” I try to get him to believe. He responds with a sad, somewhat dramatic, “This is the worst day of my life.” His truck broke ARTS AND CULTURE down, he got stung and burned, and then 1 left him there. 37 FILM The point of all this? The contrast in values and behavior that 1 was feeling. A flamboyant In Portland we don’t let strangers into our homes and our cars. Out there they farmer struggles to save his soil do. 1 wanted to stay in their serene home and sit down and talk. I wanted to tell in The Real Dirt them about Portland, and Just Out. I wanted to compare their ranch life in the on Farmer John country to my lesbian life in the city. I wanted to find out what we had in 38 BOOKS common and where we were different. I wanted to set up a town hall forum in Gay art history these unsuspecting people’s living room. I wanted to bring in Basic Rights collection shows Oregon and talk about ballot measures and signature gathering. I wanted to ask how far we haven’t come as them not to sign and to respect our newly won, well-deserved rights. And after a culture that, well, then I wanted to unload my car, pick a room and move in. 39 DANCE None of this happened, of course. In actuality I said goodbye, drove off and Oregon Ballet Theatre’s founding artistic found my way home. 1 later Googled Wasco, Morrow and Umatilla counties. director creates new dances as an 1 learned that the three cover more than 7,500 square miles and that, with the independent choreographer exception of The Dalles and Pendleton, the size and the people are few and far 40 NIGHTLIFE “You’re the first car down this road in five hours,” spoke the forlorn'looking fella, between. These people vote, however, and when added all up, they can make Oregon Leather Pride Week is back standing next to his hood-up, equally forlorn-looking, now lifeless truck. a difference. The Rural Organizing Project has a presence in eastern Oregon. According to COLUMNS he soundtrack to the day came to a screeching halt. Ax murderer was my its Web site, the group has member organizations in all three counties. In Wasco, 14 GET DIRTY WITH DAN immediate thought. But hey, I’m from the city; this was a normal reaction. it’s the Wasco County Citizens for Human Dignity, who recently worked to pass Backyard Bounty Right? Remember, I’m off on a dirt road to nowhere, no traffic of any sort to be nondiscrimination lawsin the county. In doing so, Wasco County became the 13th 33 MS. BEHAVIOR seen, no cell phone service, and no one knows where I am. Nary a soul about Oregon community to ban discrimination in employment practices, housing and The Old College Try except for me and a fella who, if we were in Portland, would appear to be public accommodations based on sexual orientation and gender identity. 35 OUT GOING looking for a homeless shelter. He says he’s been standing in the heat for hours Oregonians have differences, and we have similarities. But in each county Kendall’s a Doll waiting for someone to come by. He’s sunburned, bee-stung and miserable. He there are good people striving to make a difference, to do the right thing. Let’s 36 EPIQUEEREAN was expected down the road hours ago for a repair job. Reluctantly, I start to not lose sight of the fact that “way out there” we still have allies and friends. Lustful Libations clear the seat so I can drive him down the road. But as he approaches the door, And I’m betting and hoping that my new pretend family is right there with 42 JIM'S CLOSET cowardice, common sense or a combination of both swats me in the face. Wait, the good guys. © What’s a “Stray”? T