36 ¡U StiOUt
JULY 21 2006
eatingout
eatingout
eatingout
eatingout
1
if«
-'j
‘ 'I
fish / chips and chowder ^
1
I.R
sF
r
eatingout
eatingout
eatingout
BY JENNY NGUYEN
B
In Vitro Bistros
pi
»
catering
* ’■*’1
Try us... Just for the halibut.
2525 N . E. ALBERTA
ever been to Europe? Wanna taste
what the folks from across the Great
Blue have been bragging about for cen
turies? Thanks to trends and culinary
charlatans, we have the local solution
to wanton appetites. Below you will find just three
of the hundreds of restaurants Stumptown has to
offer those with otherworldly inclinations.
503.808.9600
Le Pigeon • 738 E. Burnside St.
Mourners of Colleen s will be pleased that such
a great restaurant has filled its void. Chef Gabriel
Rucker (from the now defunct Gotham Bldg.
Tavern) provides the tiny one-man copper-clad
kitchen with just the right amount of authentic
French know-how and enough inspired innovation
to create a captivating menu. The seared squab
atop duck confit hash with pickled cherries is
perfect. The liver pâté is undoubtedly potent, and
the mesclun greens are a hint acidic, balancing the
fatty blue cheese and robust caramelized pine nuts.
I’d heard rumors that Rucker wanted to try his
hand at desserts, and now I know why. The
chocolate tart with anise liquor and mint was
wholly divine, but it was the flakes of sea salt on
top that prompted my salivatory salutation. Le
Pigeon might be a bistro wrapped in a tiny package,
but its culinary girth is surprisingly huge.
Olea • 1338 N.W. Hoyt St.
GREAT
PORTLAND
ARE WAITING TO MEET YOU
Just celebrating its first year, this sleek,
industrial bistro is like visual music to your eyes.
The open layout flows as the bar just hovers above
the entryway and the general dining area expands
inward with more private seating in the back and
aloft. The restaurant touts itself as a Mediterranean
bistro, but the ever-morphing menu draws
inspiration from all parts of the world. The Basque
style pork belly dissolves on the tongue with
essence of piquillo peppers and quince. Oysters on
the half-shell are treated to the all-American
concept of the BLT, while the lasagna Bolognese is
a kickback to the wonderful landlocked Italian city
of Bologna. The food can be outstanding at times,
but the service is dependably rock solid and the
atmosphere brilliant.
FREE. LOCAL. NOW.
Carafe • 200 S.W. Market St.
The
This gleaming French bistro is a sight for down
fr
Melting Pot
celebrating
a fondue restaurant
O' im
and serving the community
with PRIDE for 7 years!
id*
7631 NE Gliaan - 503-262-7613
www.touchstonecoffeehouse.com
Come out and Enjoy our garden!
Open Everyday! Free Wi-Fi!
cards
& oirrs, community » sources ,
ORGANIC coni!
6* +
town eyes. In the midst of concrete slabs, transients
and transportation, Carafe puts a little bit of Paris
in our humble town. The outdoor seating is
marvelous, with all chairs set looking toward the
street. (Paris-ites would be proud.) Indoors, merlot
leather bœths and antique advertisements lined in
gold mimic French grandeur—and the menu is no
different. Moules à la crème (mussels with crème
fraîche) are silky and rich on crisp slices of baguette.
Frisée With mortadella is simplistic and fine.
Seafsxxl is done particularly well at Carafe: Pan
fried skate is a crowd-pleaser, and halibut is cooked
perfectly opaque and moist. Vichyssoise and croque
monsieur can be found alongside duck leg and ham
burgers; what more can a Francophile ask for? ©
JENNY N guyen wants your company Write her at
epiqueerean@comcast.com for more info.