NOVEMBER 18 2005
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Epiqueerean
BY JENNY NGUYEN
Japanese Restaurant
Something Old,
Something New
and Something Roux
pparently there’s nothing more appealing
A
to lestaurateurs than the ka-zing factor of
North
Portland.
First
Alberta,
then
Mississippi and now Killingsworth. The
street I grew up on, once riddled with
drive-bys and condemned lots, is now lined with
Subees and coffeehouses. So here’s to the sprawl,
three joints in 10 blocks.. .enjoy!
DiPrima Dolci •
1936 N. Killingsworth St.
Unique Sushi
Tempura &
Delicious Japanese
Cuisine
In NoPo time, DiPrima Dolci is a geezer at just
about 2 years old. Mere blocks from the stuffed-to-
the-gills Beaterville junkyard/breakfast palace, it’s a
serene reprieve from other top-notch bakeries around
town. Intoxicatingly robust with yeast and butter, the
air here dissipates your inner qualm. Real Italian pas
tries and breads are the showstoppers, but daily
homemade panini, quiche, stromboli and soups are
also superb. This bakery and cafe works closely with
local farmers, so the key ingredients are always sea
sonal, making DPD wise beyond its years and a more-
than-welcome neighborhood addition.
M-Th ii:3oam-iopm
Fri-Sat ii:3oam-io:3Opm
Sun 12-iopm
WWW.GENOARESTAURANT.COM
1337 NE Broadway
503.281.6804
Sagittarius •
2710 N. Killingsworth St.
Central Cafe
This “cafe” had been opened exactly two weeks
and four days when I stepped foot inside it. Nearly
every table was taken by twentysomethings glowing
from either die maraschino-hued space or from one
of the boozy Cocktails of the Zodiac. A small and
seemingly average fare is offered, but upon closer
scrutiny, hints of culinary creativity seep from the
menu. Radicchio, ginger-curry vinaigrette and chick
peas do not an average salad make. And though the
fish and chips were undersalted, the batter and ten
derness were delightful paired with mango chutney
and horsey tartar sauce. The Baby Cakes are a must-
have for chocoholics everywhere—I repeat, a must-
have. If as much attention given to décor was given to
food, Sagittarius could potentially be laden with artsy,
rocker types busting at the.seams for a place to get
their groove and their grub on.
great food served with a side of
attitude. Breakfast - Lunch
Open 7 days a week.
503-665-5052
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»»
.»
Roux • 1700 N. Killingsworth St.
Believe the hype? Hell yes. Just more than a month
into business, an early Sunday evening dinner had the
host prompting questions about reservations.
I laughed, but Roux has been packing all of its 130-
plus seats nearly every night since showtime. With a
cafe lunch spot linked to its corner, this colossal
restaurant takes up the entire block. Yet somehow the
space is so cozy and warm, it’s easy to forget you’re
eating with half of NoPo’s population. Being in the
industry, I understand it takes months for a kitchen to
gather its bearings, but Roux and chef Josh Blythe
have got it down pat. From the exquisite and rich
Croque Monsieur salad to the drippingly tender
smoked beef short ribs, fine Creole has never been so
well-represented. Service was outstanding, and every
care was taken to ensure our return. Oh, yes, I'll be
back.. .in about four months when I’ve worked off
the fried-to-order chocolate peanut doughnuts with
chicory coffee ice cream.
J enny N guyen is starving for your comments. Feed
her at jenny0080@botmail.com; she doesn t
bite... bard.
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AND A PIC.TY MARTINI....
qZL.ôllAM'A ONLY NONôMOKlNÇ óTRAI^dT
FG.C.NPLY LOUNt^L. OPLN A-00 P.M PALY.
503-665-5704
réservation
503
• 232
• 6I5
assaggiorestaurant.com
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