530 THE WEST SHORE
Bbady side of Scottish life than we ever boundary of England and Scotland, and
wish to see again, on arriving at Coat- Berwick assumed the important position
bridge, and while searching for lodgings, of a border town, and, perhaps, is the
through its narrow closes and dark pas- spot on which more blood has been shed
sages, in every respectable and nonre- than any other on the whole island. It
specUble portion of the city. Owing to has the air of antiquity and melancholy,
the New Year, every hotel, inn or lodg- that accords well with what has passed
ing house was fall and running over, and in and around ii Its castle, too, in a
we were forced, at last, weary and foot- rude form, on the bold heights where is
sore, to be glad of a roof to cover us, now the North British railway station,
with rooms secured in contiguous tene- stood, for many centuries, a tower of
ment houses in a cooperative building, strength and a hotly contested strong
with a herring bone flight of stone steps, hold between the two rival nations, En
My tenement consisted of a but and ben gland and Scotland. The old masses of
(bane), and tho only access to my room the castle that remain, show by their
was through mine host's, where mother, solid masonry, their former stupendous
father, two children and "a puir wee strength, the archway under the tower,
mon " of eight days, lived, slept, cooked by the river, being fifteen yards through,
and ate, but with a scrupulous regard to An inner circle of more modern walls
cleanliness, nevertheless. The keeping than the ancient ones, which encircled
room, the only other one, was given up the whole town, are yet perfect with
to me, where, with carpet and gas and a their moats, fortifications anddrawbridg
good illustrated history of Scotland, I es, covered with ramparts of earth and
was very comfortable, although with a green turf, and called "Queen Eliza
chair for wash-stand, and a sort of soup beth's walls." In 1547, a marriage be
tween for boain or bath, as the English tween Mary Queen of Scots and Edward
call lathing tub. From the sensible VI, of England, had been spoken of, and
head of tho house, I gathered much in- serious disturbances occurred on the
formation on Scottish ways and means, borders in Elizabeth's time, encouraged
and his "gudo anldmither," who visited by her, because Queen Mary had thwart
me occasionally, seemed to consider that ed her on her marriage with Darnley.
her brood Scotch would reach my com- Mary came in sight of Berwick in 15GG,
prehension through the sense of hearing to view the ancient town, so full of in
if she only raised her voice high enough, terest for so many reigns; and twenty
and enforced it by sundry strong, but years later, Sir Richard Carey arrived
amicable, paU of the shoulder. in Berwick with the melancholy com-
mission to proceed to Edinboro' to ap
Hl'riZ; P-amo, of Li, mother', beheading,
(W in jour war array, by 0rde.r of Elizabeth, but was advised
(Jrntlri and commons. no "sk his life with such a message.
Come tvcry hiii-pltM, an.l When the North British railway pur-
ll that Zlt 8t00d' f consideriMe portion of the keep
it.rwiv , was yet standing. The whole was then
EfiS.tikS t,h U0n0,tie round and the
aTlEffi c" m other octagonal-and aome of if nib.
buo-Duid, era, the Tweed lecan, the As we passed under the fire Tery com.